Rogerborg

That is a strong contender for the lowest-effort vs highest-expectations advert ever.

It's a pointless bike that does touring worse than a tourer and sportsbiking worse than a sportsbike and you're very silly for buying it and also gizza go, mister.

To deliberately inflict the maximum amount of pain?

I imagine the problem is finding a buyer, given how many sites prohibit these and also the baby Jesus hates them.

I do actually get the pragmatic argument about most AEGs vs most bolties, but the problem that you're trying to catch is edge-case exceptions. As always, I'd argue that the only thing that actually tests what energy guns are producing in game is chronoing them in game, with the weight that they're using. If you don't test reality, then you're just dabbling in various flavours of fantasy and hypotheticals.

I don't think there's any saving this one.

I mean, one fix for the original is to drop a CYMA gear (or compatible) in there. Silverback actually went out of their way to fit a gear that worked worse than the de facto industry standard. I hope they've replaced the Ares part with a "worse" one (that actually works). I'm not paying £560 to find out though!

Agreed, fixing them by upgrading to CYMA parts is wild.

That's a tough one. SilverBack do support their guns... but they do keep releasing them with problems. Given how badly they messed up the original release, you'd have to be the truest of believers to pre-order the next swing at it - especially at that price.

A fully-fledged bastard of a good point.

Yup, that's a solid choice. Cleaning is just a case of running a cleaning rod with a patch of cloth up the barrel occasionally, and if you want to lube it, any silicone based gloop or spray will be fine. No need to over-think it. Pistols are viable at CQB sites if you wanted to give that a go, although spare mags are (almost) a necessity. Or you could rent and get a site AEG, then use the pistol for extra fun. Dive in, it's a fun hobby, with lots of ways to enjoy it.

The reality is that there's a hard core of determined scammers who are determined to scam. They'll come back again and again and again, and jump through any hoop in order to get access to victims. So I'm going to be a little contrarian and suggest that - while it's great that accounts are getting squished when they're spotted - ultimately this is a caveat emptor issue. Could we add a big warning on signup, or on the first post in the classifieds?

tl;dr, sounds like a skill issue. Fewer hits, more satisfaction per hit.

Probably true, Motorrads were queued out the door with stockbrokers and accountants when Long Way Round came out, and the 1150/1200/1250 GS has been the top selling bike >125cc every year since. Even though it killed Kevin Ash in a tankslapper due to the head shake that BMW to this day insists that the water-cooled bikes don't have, and which BWM then fixed by adding a steering damper for the head shake that BMW insists to this day that the water-cooled bikes don't have. 😠

The top hit when I search for "a lot of motorcycle for the money". Nope, I test rode one of the original NC700X manuals when I was scratching the adventure itch, but the downtuned and restricted engine did my head in, constantly running into the rev limiter earlier than you'd think. However, that was on a test ride when I was pushing on, which is exactly how I don't ride day to day. I went for a BMW F650GS (800 twin) instead but then in reality ended up short-shifting it and exploiting the big-twin-torque in much the same way as you have to ride the Honda. And the DCT will take care of much of that frustration anyway. tl;dr version - I'd take one for a long test ride if you can, and ride it the way it's designed for.

I think they got an unfair reputation, along with the Bandit. I never tried a Divvy but a 600 Bandit could easily run out of road before you ran out of bike. When Honda released the CB650F in 2014, journos coomed over it - "Finally, a middleweight IL4 among all the twins!". Suzuki and Yamaha: "Are we a joke to you?" "Probably an easy fix, just not got the time" ? I'd take a careful now approach to that: you could be spending a lot of time wresting with carb rubbers that have hardened to the consistency of adamantium.

Well, sure, and a G36 rather than an AK, but can we tell what make? Not that it will matter for the gears, I'm just curious about whether that release switch is standard for Specna Arms or whether it's from something else - it's a handy feature.

I hate it when my shaft slips out of the hole, it really puts me off my stroke. Sorry, I can't place the gearbox, but it's got what looks like the handy decocker / unlocker on it which should narrow it down for G36 afficionados. It shouldn't really matter, as gears are one of the few things that most manufacturers agree on, and are generic between V2 or V3 (or V6) gearboxen. So I'd go ahead and replace all 3 gears as a set. SHS, ZCI, whatever you fancy, along with a set of shims.

A mis-match made in heaven.

Totally intuitive!

What Dan said. If you find that you have a problem, you can generally fix it with whatever you have to hand. It's not worth worrying about though. I get the desire to to make an informed choice about what to get and what to do with it, but there are no guarantees in airsoft, you'll just have to commit and then deal with the reality of what you get. The Specna EDGE 2.0 that you've been considering are fine, just clean the barrel and play, you'll have a blast.

One of these things is not like the other, one of these things just doesn't belong... Related, my daughter has just done a bike taster session and is booking her CBT. I swear, hand on heart, I had nothing to do with it and didn't encourage or suggest it, although Mrs Borg remains unconvinced of my innocence. 🗡️👀 So of course now I'm Gumtree shopping for 125s for me her. Miss Borg was given a Sinnis Terrain (luggage still fitted), which is a big old top-heavy lump of a 125 for a small human, and she promptly dropped it. Good looking bikes though, and a training school running a fleet of them is a solid recommendation. They then switched her to a Benelli TNT 125 that she got on with much better, and I have to say, sort of want. Marketing and review pictures suggest that front tyre wear will be minimal. We'll probably end up with something dull like a CB125F though, just based on availability, budget and insurance. Oof, I remember when 17 year olds get could cover for ten bob, and still have change for a slap up meal at Mrs Miggins' Pie Shoppe.

/thread, basically. And clean the barrel! There's no point in throwing (much) money at any new gun until you've used it and seen how it performs. Stock Specnas are fine, although they do tend to come with an M90 spring that comes out a little low, and an M120 spring that's way too spicy for UK use, so after you've chronoed it, you might consider a spring change.

Yup, Specnas are one of the worst brands for mag compatibility, except for all the other brands. Issues can usually be ameliorated in the field by wiggling and slamming the mag in, but you might get some mags that just wont fit or feed. This can almost always be sorted by either filing/sanding, or shimming, the mag as appropriate to line it up with the feed tube. Or if you have a lot of mags that need sorted, it can make more sense to shim inside the magwell instead. The fuzzy side of self-adhesive velcro tape is popular for this, or just use duct or electrical tape in a pinch - you could also stick a strip of plastic on if you need a big adjustment, e.g. piece of cable tie. If you do run into problems, then find a mag that does feed, and put it side-by-side with the bad ones. Eyeball and measure them up, and note how the feeds in the top of the magazines align (or don't align) - that will tell you whether you need to remove or add material to or from the front or back or the bad mags to make them match up and feed gooderer. Examples:

This, I always readjust the hop and then zero the sight in the morning. And I try to zero at the limit of the hopped flight, as any closer shot will be easier to make anyway.