Rogerborg

That looks like a nice job, it's all sensible stuff, and I'm seeing something like £300 in total parts on top of the base, right? The thing is, they're replacing the standard parts that probably slung BBs about 80%-90% as well. Comparing against new, the cheapest Specna EDGE 2.0 with a decent MOSFET are now £260 and up... but the unbranded Double Eagles with FCS are £190. If I were selling it, I'd ask north of £250. If I were buying it, I'd offer south of £200. Other price points and compromises are available.

As with TAG rounds, they'd be the sort of things that I'd expect to be restricted to well managed milsims where all participants are over 18 and have given informed consent to being around them. A typical skirmish day is full of kids and chucklefucks, and nothing capable of crippling the most vulnerable participant (shooting glasses and no earpro) has any business even being on site at all.

Is this a serious question? "185 dB of sound pressure at 1m" That's instant, permanent, hearing damage and tinnitus, plus traumatic brain injury. Wanting to use one "in airsoft games" is a great argument for why you shouldn't be able to get your hands on one. Frankly, I'm not even happy with Mk5 bangs in game, given the foreseeable risk of one going off right next to someone's head. Mk 7 and above have a 20 metre safe distance, for reasons that should be ear-bleedin' obvious.

I mean, if it's sealed inside a pouch, doesn't that effects its ability to draw air in? Just curious, as I run an exposed DIY fan. I guess if the Ex Fogs work, then there must be enough airflow. Especially if you want to see what's inside them...

Random question: if it's in a pouch, where is it drawing the air from?

Do it blindfolded.

Then you can cut it out and use it as a 7.4V after a bit of resoldering. I have one like that which works fine.

Does your charger have a storage charge setting? You could plug the mullered ones in and see if it'll balance the cells down to 3.7V or so each. In an ECPD. While filming it for Science.

Me three. I've popped stock fuses (20A? 25A?) with stalled motors, and now upgrade by deleting them and applying electromechanical sympathy. Batteries - particularly NiMh - can look good by producing voltage without being able to supply enough current, so I'd agree with trying another one, i.e. a 7.4V lipo rather than spending more money on last-last-generation technology. The other thing you can try, short of a gearbox stripdown, is shoving a long ball-end Allen key or similar up the nozzle, feel where the piston is, and see if you can get the it moving a bit. I've used that to push a stalled / locked up piston back past the release point. Be aware that it'll then want to come forwards rather assertively.

Then it'll almost certainly be the wrong polarity for airsoft, for reasons that completely escape me. There are some pictures here, and a suggestion on how to rewire the connector. Fingers crossed that there's not too much damage, but magic smoke escaping from electronics is rarely a good sign.

Yeah, Bullseye is peculiar like that. I like them as a seller, but always check the total price from their site versus eBay. It is rather peculiar that they're posting out the same part from the same stock for less, via a 3rd party ordering service that takes a further cut and makes it easier for customers to claim the money back. It seems like buying from them direct means that you're effectively paying them to run their own website and stock management service, as well as listing on eBay.

Not dropping a handful of precious shells in the mud / dark corners. The HFC can be reloaded without removing the shells, they're essentially a bit of a gimmick. Bit out of my price range.

Oh, no doubt.

My favourite part was where they stole the description straight from ActionHobbies, who are retailing this new for £150 https://www.actionhobbies.co.uk/products/jg-g36c-airsoft-rifle-black/ Trader, dreamer, or scammer?

Which is why they don't respond to emails, they're always on the phone. I mean, this is the right advice for any customer, but it's a poor way of dealing with every customer.

If a lithium battery or cell has dropped below the voltage where a smart charger will touch it, I've recovered some using a few seconds of parallel connection to a dumb source of the appropriate voltage (i.e. about 4.2V per cell). I don't mean leave it like this, just do it for long enough to nudge its voltage up, even very temporarily, to where the charger will kick in. If it's gubbed anyway you've got nothing to lose* by trying it. I've recovered 18650s that had dropped below 1V this way. You won't get the full capacity back, but any re-use is better than re-cycling. * If done in an Explosion Containment Pie Dish.

Genuinely great to hear that you've got a site that knows what they're doing. DMRs in particular are super-easy to exploit. I'd also love to find a revolver that's: 1) Gas not CO2 2) Safely reloadable in-game. 3) Effective out to 20m (0.8J+ with some kind of consistent hop) I'm currently running a HG HFC-132 which satisfies 1 and 2 as you can just pop a BB in the front of each shell and rotate the cylinder to seat them. However, out of the box it shot a disappointing and inconsistent 0.3 - 0.5J with either 0.2g or 0.25g on ASG ULTRAIR green gas at 15C. I saw over 0.6J after thoroughly lubing the o-rings and nozzle, but it's completely unhopped (despite what some sellers claim). Fine for super-CQB killhouses, but nothing beyond that.

Ahoy and welcome back. Are your local sites OK with 8mm? Do they even know what it is? I'd check about Dan Wessons as a few sites don't like them due to the ease of swapping shells after chrono. Nothing that you can't do with most other guns, but sites ban what they catch.

They're not, I use small (e.g. 5mmx2.5m) neodymium magnets to stick contacts together.

It do be true though.

Oh, ahoy and welcome and all that. You've very nearly got a good slap-fight going here about hop unit springs, that's a good start.

Yarp. Closer and closer to my "Ban us all" solution, I see. <excellent.gif>

This is something I've never heard claimed before. I'm not saying that it's wrong, but If there's more than a tiny fraction of a mm of movement then that's begging for feeding or air-seal issues as you change the nozzle-to-bucking distance. Also, plenty of us replace the stock spring in an M4 with o-rings specifically to squish everything together more tightly. My Specna EDGE is quite fussy, and its mags have different dimensions to most of my other random collection of M4/M16/STANAG mags. In particular, the distance from the front to the feed tube is a full 1mm larger than (e.g.) my short VN style mags. Having measured it, I knew that I needed to shim the front of the VN mags with the loop (fabric) side of some self-adhesive velcro tape, which has helped the feeding. But wait, there's more. Even the BB-stopper inside the magazine feed is different. The VN mag stopper goes further into the feed than the Specna one does, and there's a distinct flat section that protrudes into the feed, thusly. This can lead to the mag not wanting to insert at all as the hop unit feed tube hangs up on top of the magazine stopper, and needs a good wiggle to get it to actually insert. To ameliorate that, I very carefully filed and sanded the rear of the hop unit feed tube to angle it more. This helps it to slide into the magazine and push the stopper out of the way. The tl;dr version is: don't guess, observe and measure. Calipers and a magnifying glass or jeweller's loupe are better than speculation.

Information, or assumption? Again, a genuine question as I've had no trouble hopping 0.28g at ~1.1J in any season in the UK with 50, 60 or 70.

One reason that I empty my mags before bagging them is that it's the only way I'll get the BBs back in the right bags or bottles.