Rogerborg

Oh, sorry, yes, I blanked on that. If you've bought an AEG spring, and it's the same diameter as the stock spring, sling it in and you should be good. Longer springs can reduce twanginess. Do you have the link to the eBay listing?

Agreed, this will be fine: https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/springs/xt-aeg-spring-m100 It looks like you've got a 150mm barrel, so while you can probably get up to 1.1J, you might need to go a little hotter to get there. Do you have a chronograph? If so, you could try an M105 or even M110, then cut a coil or two, or just heat-and-squish them, in order to fine tune it down. If not, an XT M100 should be fine, you're always better coming out a little under than over.

Yup. Specna Arms CORE HAL gets you a well featured fire control system, rotary hop and QC spring and an aluminium handguard, starting at just £130. I'd suggest analysing the reasons why you'd need or want to spend more than that, e.g. to get a pot-metal receiver, or a stainless barrel, or spinnier motor (both of which are simple swaps). You can drag a gun through the SHS parts catalogue, but the extra performance you'll get over a modern stock gun starts to tail off pretty rapidly.

All sites that I play at require that. Well "require" it as much as they "enforce" MED. As above, it's a cretinous rule that's guaranteed to result in more arguments. "He shot me while I was retreating!" / "He was out but didn't go back to respawn!" / "He shot me while I was still within 20m!" (shouted both ways) About what I'd expect from a site that's still thinking and talking in terms of 0.2g rather than Joules, and which only limits DMRs to "single shot", not "2 second delay" / "1 in the air". Not that those are ever respected anyway, but they're essentially saying "trigger spam at 1.8J, it's cool."

Er... yes. Yes, that's my point. That if you buy a "just tried in garden once" used gun, it could have had 30 rounds through it, or 30,000. It might work without trouble for another 30,000, or fail after 30. Not a problem for those of us who accrue more than we use, rotate through them, and/or tinker. But for someone looking get a first gun, my assumption is that they'd want to maximise the chances of it lasting long enough to break it themselves while uPgRaDiNg it.

If you're paying 60-70% of new for an unmeddled with example, go for it. That's a rational risk. Paying a premium for someone else's time to put in parts that may or may not work together (or even be present as promised), that's a bit different. At 40+ per year, how many have been used for more than (or even as much as) a day's play? 🤔

Counterpoint: I currently run 0.32g in a 1.8J gun because while 0.4g+ would go further for the same muzzle energy, I don't believe I'd get significantly more hits within that extra range due to the shot-to-shot inconsistency in my fully-semi-auto electric gun. Conversely I do run 0.43g in my 2.3J boltie because it's more consistent at the extremes of its range and the BB is the limiting factor. Of course, it's all subjective, situational, and subject to the if-you're-grinning-you're-winning rule: there's no right or wrong answer.

He sure does put a high value on his time, but I'd consider it an anti-recommendation that a gun has been through his hands. The thread basically ended with @Adolf Hamster's post. If you have to ask, then don't buy 2nd hand. It's a big risk, and you're not exactly getting bargains there, given that fire control systems are now becoming the default on new guns at less than those prices.

Ahoy and welco- wait, what, in pink? It's not a P90! That's a fair whack to pay for what I assume is a first gun, but it does claim a decent spec. Have you had a chance to try it out yet?

True. I have been on the incoming side of an AA-12, set to 6 shot and trigger spammed. It's a visually impressive experience, but less ouchier than a typical HPA wankergun that's "not" Joule-creeping to the moon.

Don't you dare bring context into our ignorant rants. 😠 On topic, I run everything on 11.1V now, if I can physically fit one. If you're into buying 3-figure toys that are guaranteed to hang on a wall for almost all of the time, why fret over the possibility that one component might fail? Especially when you can replace anything, or bypass it with 20p of wire and solder.

I've never played at a site that blanket-bans multi-shot shotguns. I've never heard of a site that banket-bans multi-shot shotguns. Not even gas or AA-12s (in semi-mode). Maybe CQB sites should, but here we are.

If you got caught doing that.

Nice eclectic collection of guns, rather than the usual 6 x M4 variants. I'm guessing... motorcycles and... uh... My Little Ponies?

Probably easier to get some real ones from Sweden.

Mm. It is a bit of a quandary when you've only got one chance to make a hit, and you know there's a fair chance that a plate-carrier hit "won't be felt". The morality of shot placement aside, it's a good argument for setting the tone for a site by being scrupulous about calling your own hits, loudly and cheerfully. "Nice shot!" is my go-to, and anything else is said under my breath.

This one. (Although I scooped it listed on eBay for half that)

Solid choices. It's really up to how much you want to spend. 5x Specna brand mags will set you back £36 in either mid-cap or high cap. If you're out together, you might find that 5x mids + the 2 highs that came with the guns are all that you'll need for typical games, as you can share if one of you goes ham. You might need some extras, or to bring a speedloader out with you. On that, if you do go with mid-caps, an Odin crank speedloader clone like this (not a recommendation, just an example) makes loading them a lot quicker and more pleasant.

Yup, MP5K and boltie or DMR is my combo of choice when I'm not LARPING. I bin the long gun off half the time and go ham with the SMG. There's no right or wrong way to play pretend soldiers.

Ahoy, and welcome. What they all said: by default, mid caps, with a backup hi-cap (which you probably got with the gun) is generally a good shout for most AEGs. It does depends on the gun, and play style / site though. Are you running anything peculiar? Low caps are pretty much pointless, because you can just partially load a mid-cap if you want to run real capacity for a milsim or to play in hard mode.

Just springer it, bro.

Sure. A balance charger is going to charge each cell through the balance connector anyway: it's only using the main power connector to measure the total voltage. One thing to be aware of is that radio-control (RC) Tamiya and airsoft Tamiya have opposite polarity on the connectors, for ritual reasons It's easy enough to remove the connectors and swap them over if you end up with one that's barse ackwards.

Hah, saves me looking it up, I knew I'd seen that before. Yes, the front ends have always been fragile, and the slap is a no-no. Eh, it does look to be fairly described, and you can't get them new now. You're looking at £135 for the much heavier Jing Gong, or £170 for the CYMA. Still pretty optimistic for a CQB gun that can't be used at most CQB sites though.

That's a phenomenal amount of features for the money. It would come down to how good the plastic is, I haven't handled one. But a fully featured fire control system, quick change spring, and rotary hop are strong arguments. Doesn't look like it comes with a mini-Tamiya connector, but Deans-to-mini-Tamiya converters are readily available. Although if you're any way technically inclined, I'd always recommend binning off Tamiya in favour of soldering on Deans, if you buy a gun that's still pre-wired for VHS. I know, I know, XT-60 is even betterer, but I run an eBike on Deans, 36V and a sustained 250W / peak 400W hauling 100kg of metal and meat around, without any heat or hassles. It's fine for airsoft.

I'd say "nope" to that because of the Nuprol burn-your-house-down charger, and starting off with Tamiya, when there are guns now that come with Deans as standard. Not a big deal to swap if you're OK with soldering, but why make work for yourself out of the box?