Rogerborg

Er, I believe US-made NODs are on the export prohibition list. Or at least a TSA goon might very well believe that.

I mean, the no-prisoners position is that you've got a free[*] gift, but are still waiting on what you ordered. [*] Less all the fees that you've been stung with.

Sad: you didn't get what you ordered. Glad: it didn't just get destroyed followed by a knock on the door for importing a Section 5.

2.12J?

Followup: Should be sorted now with a smallish AK2M4 care package. The gearbox shell continues to surprise, it seems less Chinesiumy than most, and was quite resistant to being radiused. What a bizarre decision to fit crappy plastic bushings with a decent (but unradiused) shell, gears and piston. The shell also has some helpfully-annoying posts intended to keep the very thin stock wiring in place that need removed in order to use anything chonkier. The notchy semi trigger (also reported by other owners) is down to the safety lever that blocks the trigger tending to stay very slightly raised when the selector on (or around) semi. It should wear down, or just nudge the selector a tiny fraction more towards auto. As an aside for the "wut spring 2 get maxumin powar?" question, with the stock spring, plus a new bearing guide, o-ring nozzle, Specna rotary hop (I think), Maple Leaf bucking and a ~330mm 6.00mm[*] barrel, the no-hop power with 0.28g went from <1J to >1.25J (adding some hop brings it under 1.2J for my regular woodland sites, although I may not get under 1.13J with properly hopped 0.2g for CQB ). Air seal is king. But good God, it's time consuming to work on, with so much take-down and put-back to do anything. I nearly wept when I realised that I'd put the gearbox back for the eleventeenth and what I thought was the final time before fitting the hop and barrel, despite repeating to myself "Put them back as a unit" over and over. [*] An XT from AK2M4, labelled as 6.02mm from a sample batch that came out under-sized and was sold as such for a bargain price - it is indeed a proper tite-boi.

Maaaybe. Mine pets its lip with 11.1V, a Big Dragon M160 and an M120 spring in a DMR build. Remove any of those factors (7.4V, or stock motor, or M90/M100-ish spring) and it'll cope. They're poor units though, and clearly only there to tick the "has mosfet" box.

Indeed, we've seen some right horrors, including dayglo Pulse Rifles and even a WA2000. However, in this case it seems that the chap has got his hands on a RIF Systema and pistol (the sniper may have been painted) before playing even once. Entirely up to the seller, of course. One argument in favour of a defence is that if a wrong-un is after an assault-style toy for nefarious stick-'em-up purposes when they only need to get the cheapest plastic springer. Paying Systema money is an indication that you do actually intend to use it for a legit purpose.

I'd assume the time from tickling the trigger to spurting balls. In CQB particularly, those milliseconds can sometimes count. Stock Specnas on 7.4V aren't bad, but you can make them spinnier.

Ahoy and welcome. Just about any aftermarket motor is going to be better than just about any stock one. The SHS is well regarded, as is the XT from AK2M4. Personally, I use Big Dragon M140 motors from AliExpress as I'm a cheapskate and chisel every penny. Dunno about the Ifrit, but it's easy enough chuck it in and see. Most long shaft motors will fit most AR grips and V2 gearboxes, although there's no real standard and you might find that it's tighter or looser or a slightly different length or needs the spade connectors crimped down or opened up or... Chuck it in and see, the only consideration is matching the +ve contact, which should be marked with a red post next to it, to the +ve wire, and then adjusting the motor height if necessary with the screw in the base plate - just go by the sound, you'll hear it screeching on either side of spot-on. You don't need any tools beyond a screwdriver, and ideally some needle nosed pliers to fit and remove the connectors and wiggle it out. 11.1V will help significantly, even with the stock motor, so again, try it and see. You already have have an X-ASR mosfet to protect the trigger contacts and prevent arcing. You might experience double-shots on semi (where the motor spins so fast that it completes another cycle even after the trigger trolley resets). Fitting the M105 might sort that, or it might not, and you might only see it with a meatier motor (or you might not). There's only one way to find out. Battery, spring and motor are pretty easy. If you do want to take it further, you're looking at a pre-cocking mosfet like a Perun AB++ which means some soldering (and you might as well replace all the wiring with thicker stuff while you're doing that), and/or short stroking, and/or fiddling with the gearing. Just be aware that you'll start spending more and more to chase smaller and smaller improvements. I find with a Big Dragon M140, 11.1V and a mosfet and decent wiring, that even a stock gearbox will cycle about as fast as my mags can feed.

Lost a part while teching, triggered me a bit, but I'll spring back.

It's very peculiar. I can see Dodgy Dave down the market flogging RIFs without any defence beyond "Aw, go on, mister, I've saved up my 50ps", but who's shifting new Systemas with terms like that? 🤷‍♂️

Challenge accepted. "And the next game scenario..." will become "And the script outline for the next improvised theatrical performance scene..."

I'm not aware of an upgraded replacement for that hop unit. I did buy a spare when I cracked the rotary dial, but the functionality was always fine. I run a Maple Leaf 60 bucking in mine, I can't recall if I've changed the nub or not. Lubrication, bucking and o-rings is probably all it needs, if that. They're decent guns, I bought one as a backup-backup but it's now my go-to. I run a STANAG adaptor as well, it really widens mag choice. Heck, with a Big Dragon M140, 11.1V and a Perun AB++ it'll burst fire right on the limit of where mags can feed. I don't know if yours is from this era, but mine has an adjustable spring tensioner which is a brilliant idea that allows for tuning to site limits. The only thing I'm not mad keen on is the trigger, but that's common to all V3 two-piece triggers. I hope you get yours back in shape and outshooting guns that cost two or three times as much.

Wow. The Buyer's Regret package is usually a blue Bulldog and a Raven. To go straight to a pimped out Systema before playing is living your life as though every day is your last (spoiler: in the vast majority of cases, it is not). I mean, the best you can say is that it looks like he's managed to get his sweaty hands on RIFs.

Ahoy and welcome. Yes, I'd expect the rubber parts and gearbox snot to have hardened, and the spring may be mullered if it was left compressed, but what you do about it really comes down to time and budget. JGs are pretty tough and basic, I wouldn't go mad spending money on it unless it actually needs it. Maple Leaf buckings work well and are a candidate for best value for money replacement/upgrade. If you're opening the gearbox for a clean and re-grease, and to lubricate or replace the rings, then you might as well re-shim it while you're in there, check the gears for wear, and the trigger contacts for arcing damage. If you don't open it, you can sometimes up the compression a little by taking the barrel off and spraying or dripping a little silicone oil down the nozzle into the cylinder. Give it some time to work into the rings, then blow it out with some auto bursts until it's completely clear at the nozzle, before re-assembly. The rotary hop unit on my 2018 era G36 works well enough, I'm not sure if yours is different so can't speak to that. A chrono is the only way of (really) telling where the power is at, but you may want to skip it if you're willing to accept a day shooting weak. If you end up fixing it to the point where it shoots hot though, that's a wasted day of airsoft and you'd have been better off buying the chrono. Up to you, I wouldn't go without now.

What I think is that volunteering has merits and should be encouraged. However, what I know is that Uniparty Blue has cut funding for the National Citizen Service by 2/3rds since 2019, and reportedly Sanook personally tried to scrap it entirely as chancellor. So what I conclude is that this is an unfunded, unplanned, entirely fantastical Hail Mary announcement by a man who doesn't mean a word of it, and whose wife is already picking out the curtains for their Malibu mansion. When James Dimly was rolled out to explain that this definitely compulsory probably unpaid indentured servitude would likely not have an element of compulsion, maybe, it became pure farce.

The cretins who continue to open-carry RIFs (or even IFs in this case) are very lucky that our firearms units roll up far less trigger happy and primed to execute than US coppers. But eventually, an airsofter (or cosplayer) is going to win the Pavement Temperature Challenge, and they'll have no-one to blame but themselves. That will likely be the trigger for collectively punishing responsible owners. Aside, a white IF? There are only a few that I know of, e.g. the XR-5, and didn't Black Viper / Well do a g36 in white? I wonder if that was actually a gel blaster. 🤔

Ahoy and welcome.

Wait, if you can regard something, can you...

They're both going to perform much the same, neither comes with a battery (*angry muttering about when these were <£60 with a battery*), and both will have that chonky-boi AEP grip. So, I'd agree on following the heart rather than the head on this one. If you do want to crunch numbers, then magazine price and availability can be a factor, and space for a larger battery is always welcome. Barrel length isn't an issue, as you're working with such a tiny cylinder volume - the CM.121 Deagle actually claims lower power than most other Cyma AEPs. The mosfet is... well, better than not having one, but my CM.123 runs fine without one on a 7.4V , and with the stock wiring replaced with thicker stuff. What made the big difference was running a high amperage lipo (remembering that amperage is capacity x C factor, so biggerer is generally betterer).

If you know what you're doing, you won't buy it.

Narp, ~4.5J / 3.3 foot-pounds, so just a regular air gun. You'd get the jail in Jockshire, mind. However, I'd assume that it's actually 450 with 0.2g, i.e. 1.88J plus whatever it creeps to with 0.48g. Still an eye-roller though.

Yup, @Pseudotectonic has it right, test each component in isolation by adding them one at a time. And when checking the nozzle seal, check it with the nozzle forwards, not just mashed back against the cylinder head (it helps to use your third hand for this part). A sparing amount of silicon oil or grease can do a great job of improving the seal. This is a wild guess from just looking, but I prefer my piston rings to be slacker than that. You can take the ring off, then stretch it over the cylinder to slacken it up, or replace it with something a little bigger (and stretch that too if you like) - I use 19mm x 2.5mm nitrile.

I've been using Vorsk 0.28g, 0.32g and 0.43g bio without issues, some of it over a year old.