Rogerborg

Ahoy and welcome. As above, it's either the cut-off switch not cutting off, or the trigger contacts being too close. In either case, it's a case of taking the gearbox apart to find out. This is quite time consuming and intimidating the first time you do it, but there's nothing particularly hard about it, and there are loads of decent disassembly videos on YouTube that can help.

The counterpoint being that filing a bit off of the fire selector does nothing to prevent trigger spam. I honestly don't think there is a way to keep them honest in-game.

This is a UK forum, we can only help with lollipop stick builds.

Do we know what 300ml of propane/butane mix plus propellant weighs?

Ahoy and welcome. Loads, is the short answer. It'll depend on temperature and such, but even with moderate CQG pistol use, I buy new gas cans (I use ASG ULTRAIR Power Green Gas 520ml) so infrequently that I couldn't even guesstimate a cost-per-mag. Gas pistols aren't free to run, but they're so cheap compared to other airsoft costs that it's just not a consideration.

Ahoy and welcome. No, not personally. I assume that's the LayLax automatic BB loader. UK prices seem to range from £50 (if they had any) into the £60s (if they had any). There's shill review here which shows it working out of the box, but it's not that fast and clearly struggles to half-fill and EPM1. The comments aren't very complimentary. Nice that it comes with multiple adaptors, but I'd stick to an Odin or clone, given that replacing Odin internals costs a fraction of throwing one of these away when it breaks. Also, Odins and clones are available, but it seems nobody has bothered re-stocking these.

I was going to say that if you're playing CQB, you can run a GBB pistol primary effectively, and if you get the right one, you can dress it up in any carbine kit you like. However, Apocalypse is a hundred acre woodland site, so I'd definitely go AEG there. And of course rent first and try airsoft out a few times before buying anything (except footwear and maybe eyepro). I suspect that OP may be listing what he wants, rather than what he has.

Great that it's going ahead, and I reckon it is a large enough area to be viable with some smart build work. I just hope they don't sink loads in and then get dicked over as soon as a more conventional client shows interest.

I'd assume Customs went in ham-fisted hoping that this time they'd be busting the Lord of War, rather than finding more assault-style-toys. Great news that the contents were fine anyway.

Yakety Sax?

That's a little bit of a Frankengun with the Olde Worlde front post, but a new fangled RIS handguard. That's handguard doesn't really add extra value for a purchaser unless you can find one that's after that specific combination. And grips, suppressors and mags are more what you'd call free gifts or sweeteners. I reckon that's a Delta Armory DA-A02-ETU ALPHA, so £250 new, so maybe £175 used for the base gun. £200 isn't an unreasonable ask - and you might get it at this time of year - but unspecified "upgrades" would actually put me off. I wouldn't even mention that, just what it's chronoing at, if you know. Expect plenty of lowball offers, and "Swap for... ?" asks.

Anything online needs a loicence. https://www.gamblingcommission.gov.uk/public-and-players/guide/how-to-run-a-lottery-or-fundraiser People give you money in the expectation of not being sent anything in return. What could possibly go wrong?

Should be. But given the QC of airsoft, you could also find that you've bought 4" of extra wonkiness at end of what might have been the perfect barrel if the cut had fallen in a different spot.

That there's a subtle difference between using your debit card to pay an invoice (where the chargeback scheme applies), versus making a direct bank transfer payment (where you're generally on your own). This isn't victimblaming, just pointing out that the difference will matter to your bank. I'd also agree that you've complicated things by punting it on. I'd be very surprised if your your bank is able to reverse that payment - I'd actually be a little concerned, as it would seem to be a scammer's charter for rogue purchasers if both banks are prepared to simply take your word for it.

Wow. This is like anti-advertising. Antvertising? Horribly fascinating though. Now I'm wondering if there's actually a niche for so-bad-it's-effective Idiocracy style marketing.

My AB++ has it as well, and I should really turn it on. Sadly, my local doesn't require it, and you're lucky if you even get checked for semi-lock at chrono. But that's a different, and more general, rant about the uselessness of pre-game chronoing for catching chancers.

Yarp, it's entirely up to your local sites, you'll need to ask them. It's one of the most LARP-ish aspects of airsoft, as functionally, the BB doesn't give a stuff about what it came out of. Locked-to-semi is both a site issue and a legal issue, as anything capable of auto and over 1.3J is a Section 5 firearm, not an airsoft gun. It's easily enough achieved on most guns just by filing a small amount off the fire selector so that it can't push on the semi-auto cutoff lever. My local is fine with me running a long barrelled M4 with a scope and solid stock as a DMR. They are indeed super-exploitable, and enforcement is essentially non-existent. With the best will in the world, when you're presented with a juicy target in the open, it's hard to resist the reflex to send two[*] BBs at them in short order. My other local disallows them entirely, and only allows sub 1.2J auto guns, and bolt actions up to 2.2J, nothing in between. I actually agree with this. [*] Ten.

Sorry to hear that. Exceptions exist, but as a general rule of thumb, anyone wanting to be paid other than by PayPal Goods and Services is planning to screw you. All airsoft MP5K guns that I'm aware of use a V3 gearbox, with that looooong trigger pull. Easy enough to check, using the pictures on the page above, or a guide like this one. With the caveat that nothing in airsoft is standard, a G&G or Guarder shell might suit. The other alternative is to look for a boneyard MP5K, AK or G36 that's cosmetically wrecked, but it's always tricky to find a real bargain, honestly described.

A particularly gopping 2-tone at that.

You mean you want to reach 1.13J. I stress this because thinking and talking in terms of fps (implicitly with a 0.2g BB) is legacy thinking. The only way you're going to get it tuned for the ideal amount of power for the BBs that you actually want to use is to test with them, properly hopped. I know that this isn't practical for kitchen-table teching, but there's no magic solution other than going through a few iterations of actually shooting it in the field. That said, those numbers do look low for an M105 spring, so I'd be thinking air-seal now. This is how to test for end-to-end airseal, then if it's not perfect, you'll start working backwards to find where it's leaking.

[Much typing deleted, I just do this] I'd stress being careful to heat only the last coil, and just enough squish it, as the heating will de-springify it. If you only want to lose a small bit of energy, you can just heat and squish a coil without cutting it at all. [EDIT] Right, basically what @Pseudotectonic said.

Perhaps we might prepare young people for the society that we'd prefer to live in.

[citation needed]

Well, I've read the law. It's not secret. Yarp. Excellent news! As above, retailers want to sell, and are really just checking a box in their records.

Huh, then that's surprisingly high power for a stock VSR-10. I'm guessing that it Joule-crept up to there on the 0.28g and might have come out under 1.14J on 0.25g. If your son is enjoying using it, I'd be minded to leave it as stock, other than dropping the power very slightly so that it's just under 1.14J with the heaviest BBs that it can lift (I'd hope 0.32g wouldn't be an issue). You'll keep the light pull, not stress the components, and lose the MED. Just dropping in 0.25g might bring it under the MED limit.