Rogerborg

If you're going to be doing any electrical work, a multimeter is a must. It takes all the guesswork out of it.

If you can find a holster that can attach to molle (or are prepared to make it attach with paracord or cable ties or what-not) then I'd recommend a thigh panel as a compromise between belt and drop-leg. I find these ideal in both height and security for mounting, as you say, an SMG sized gat. Real-pretend world example (just add holster).

Never ceases to amaze me that sellers will demand a fantasy price with absolutely no details, and then cry about "time wasters" as though it's buyers' fault for not being able to read their minds and use remote x-ray vision on the internals.

Source "Trust the bro I trusted, bro."

True facts. On an AEG, I find that magnification is really for checking whether I'm actually shooting at a target, or just thrashing bush with my balls.

Ahoy and welcome back. I'm also making a resolution to stop letting mere real life get in the way of daft hedonistic LARPing next year.

The old Depot warehouse site was run via a "community sports charity" so avoided rates that way. Rent would have been at tenants-of-last-resort levels, which is the problem with airsoft sites - they'll always be kicked off site the instant a more lucrative use can be found, and then you can kiss goodbye to anything you've spent on build works.

That's a good point, you're essentially introducing a fuse into the circuit. The only real hazard I could see would be stalling the motor out and locking up the gearbox.

All correct, and multi-shot shotguns is a good point, although they're a sod to chrono anyway. However to answer @ArseBurgers420's question, if you're using it at an airsoft site rather than for plinking, you'll need to stick to site limits, as well as legal limits. If you're shooting at 1.4J (and I'm seeing up to 1.5J claimed for that CO2 pistol) then you'll be sodded off from almost all CQB sites, and if woodland sites let you use it at all, it will be with to DMR limits, e.g. a 20-30m MED and one-in-the-air or 2-second delay shooting. Or they may just sod it off as well because it's essentially impossible for marshals to spot if you're breaking those rules when you're using a pistol. Keep it restricted to 1J (however you're doing that) and you can play with it anywhere in the UK, including Northern Ireland. 1J is fine, and if it's properly hopped, it'll be sending BBs as far as any other 1J gun. If you're getting less then 45-50m out of it, that's an issue with BB weight (go heavier) or hop (adjust it, clean it),

There's no objectively right answer. I have great fun running 4x+, 2x, 1x, iron sights, and sights hacked out of pieces of EVA foam. Everything works, and whatever makes you smile the most is the best for you.

If in doubt, re-do it. You'll only get better with practice. I'd stick with 60/40 or 63/37 tin/lead rosin flux cored solder. Brands can be a holy war, I use Stannol, but they've discontinued the 60/39/1 wire that I preferred, so sod em.

You could probably knock one up in your shed. Kydex is cheap, and really easy and forgiving to work with, just heat and form.

Yup, if you want to stay stealthy, any Mk23. If you want to sling more balls, then, sure, an AEG SMG is a good shout. It's a shame that the plastic Galaxy MP5K (G5K) is out of stock, as it's ideal as a cheap, light, auto-capable sidearm. But it is, so you'll likely have to look at: CYMA (heavier, but spicier) https://www.patrolbase.co.uk/cyma-cm-041k-smg-5k-submachine-gun Jing Gong (lighter but weedier) https://www.patrolbase.co.uk/jing-gong-jg-smg-5k If you don't mind slinging a secondary, any shortish, lightish AEG will do. I run a mix of Galaxy MP5K, a Jing Gong G36C with the stock taken off, or a CYMA M4 with the barrel cut down and the stock lopped right off (battery in a PEQ box). Whatever works, works. If you want something a little different, this is a genuine bargain price for a Double Eagle UMP 45: https://bbguns4less.co.uk/products/double-eagle-m89-ump-45-electric-airsoft-gun-in-black.html - you can ditch the stock, and bin off any rails that you don't need to bring the weight down.

Yup, best to ask here: https://airsoft-forums.uk/classifieds/category/18-parts-gear-wanted/

That's a good point, I'd definitely be budgeting for lipos and a decent charger.

The cheapest CYMA M5xx range has toytown plastic: they're good candidates for throwing in the bag as a backup or loaner, but I wouldn't spend money on them, unless it's to learn teching. £200 gets you into the Double Eagle M9xx range. Plastic too, but nicer than the CYMA, and with a rotary hop, quick change spring, and a decent fire control system. https://www.patrolbase.co.uk/airsoft-m4-ar15-m16-variant-assault-rifles?*brand=61 That said, even the cheapest Specna Arms FLEX units have all those features now as well. That's quite remarkable value for money, although they're less of a known quantity than the Double Eagles. https://www.patrolbase.co.uk/airsoft-m4-ar15-m16-variant-assault-rifles?*brand=302 If you want a metal body, you're probably looking at the Specna EDGE range, but then you're paying more for fewer features, and a metal body that doesn't feel (or work) any better than a decent plastic.

Presumably he's factoring in the absolute rinsing inflicted by EAGLE6 for throwing in the Titan and trigger. I also like that he's listed a sling swivel, but nothing about replacing any TM parts designed to run at 0.8J, or even what spring has ostensibly bumped it to 1.1J. The ANGY SHOUTING about not splitting this bargain bundle up is the perfect opener. That'll take some beating.

I apologise for your error.

Wall, thar's yar problem. Airsoft isn't actually magic, so you'll want to get at close to your site's energy unit as possible, and sort the hop. If a clean hop bucking can't lift 0.45g, then a sliver of rubber / tape / whatever thin thing you have to hand can add as much pressure as you need.

Thank you for following up, now we've all learned.

Oh, sorry, my mistake, I was thinking of the chap with the weird BB-stuck-in-hop issue. Yes, it's much easier with a springer - just mash your finger in the end of the barrel to see if there's good seal there. You should be able to shoot it, remove your finger, and hear a pop. If so, you're good. If not, something is leaking, and it's a question of working backwards to find where. Have you changed the stock spring? Stock seems to be around 1.8J, but some snipers come super-weak out of the box to be safe in all markets.

Depends how far you're stripping it down. If it's all the way to components, then start with piston and cylinder. Seal the end with your hand or whatever squishy surface you have handy, and push the piston sharply forwards - a perfect airseal will stop it dead. If it's leaking around the piston ring(s), replace, grease, or stretch it/them. Then add cylinder head and repeat, and then the nozzle and repeat - and test the seal with nozzle forwards, not pushed back against the cylinder head. Finally, push the hop unit and barrel against the gearbox, finger on the end of the barrel, and check that you still have good seal, as shown here (actually, just start here and work backwards if you don't have a good seal). What I don't recommend is doing this with the gearbox intact, using the gears and motor, as you're begging to strip the cylinder. If you have a quick-change gearbox, you pull the spring and test with a long screwdriver or rod pushed in from the rear.

And Martin Lewis appears in AI deepfakes because he's trustworthy. That's not his problem to fix.

De jure, it's a defence to the offence, not a licence to import. Although they do - de facto - choose to treat it as though it were. That's tucked away in the small print of a document (IIRC) relating to ferries from Ireland.

Hmm. Two things occur: 1. The bucking has got fouled with something slippery - silicone, or grease. I've even had it happen when I silicone lubed a magazine and the BBs transferred lube to the bucking more than I'd expected. 2. Not enough puff to push the BBs past the bucking. Weak spring, or knackered air seal?