EDcase

Welcome (back) ✋ They're not 'toys' but losing investments cos you can sell em and get some money back ?

Very nice I think £375 sounds about right.

Welcome ✋ You'll certainly learn a lot here and probably be encouraged to spend a lot too ?

Welcome back ✋ Yeah, the bug never completely goes away ? Do a few searches for starter guns/gear as the market may have changed quite a bit since you last looked. Check out HERE for any sites near you.

Welcome ✋ Good starter guns can be had from CYMA and SpecnaArms for around £150. Most guns around that price are decent enough to start with but I would stay away from Nuprol stuff in general. Yeah, there are loads of posts about first starter guns and kit in general. Keep some budget for decent boots with ankle support and eye protection. ( would suggest to look at posts about the best eye-pro) You'll get the hang of things soon enough ? Don't worry about age since you can play at your own pace. (I know players in 60s and 70s that play) But don't expect to stick with your son ?

I would suggest to start with Hi-caps and then go to mid caps once you've played few games and need more magazine interaction.

? Do plenty of reading before buying toys and gear to make the best choices.

I don't know any specific cases of it actually happening but I'm not going to take any chances. As we know, the public can be real arseholes when it comes to gun topics. Anyone who acts stupid with em deserves the lesson.

If people hear rif, toy or pew they'll be much less likely to call the police than if you're talking about guns in McDonalds ?

Sure, you're free to call a pea shooter a gun ? I was really just kidding about calling them toys. I call em rifs, toys or pews if I'm discussing airsoft with friends in public.

Fixed that for ya ? With the general opinion on 'guns' and to distance ourselves from the US crazyness we prefer to call em something less obvious.

It certainly can happen.

Yeah, slow for me too. Only on Windows 10 PC using Chrome

Getting out of bathtub ?

Welcome ✋ Mid 40s pfffft. You got a decade to go before you can start thinking of slowing down. (Unless you break your back ?)

Welcome ✋ Look for info on how to prepare for your first game. And there's loads of info to answer most questions.

I don't know if more soldering is going to eliminate any soldering problems but its good practice I guess.

Welcome back ✋ Do a few searches in the forum as there are many discussions of best pew choices.

Can your friend sort it out for you? If not then it may be best to look for a tech nearby.

Assuming its the G&G ARP 9 that's unlikely as it has a MOSFET which means the trigger only makes a low voltage contact. Unless you've been mashing the hell out of it. Its possible but my bet would be on the wiring or battery connector.

GBBRs are definitely more immersive and feel cooler to use. They are also more challenging and expensive to use on game days. They are NOT more accurate or have longer range. I saw a video (cant remember name) of a US player who found the best compromise for ammo was to take 4 or 5 mags and refill them with BBs and gas in the field. As Hudson said above, start by using heavier BBs and only use single shot. Only consider changing to GBBR when you're getting bored and need more of a challenge ?

Could be battery needs a top-up Could be varying connection with the Tamiya plug (contact quality will vary each time its plugged in because the pins are too small) Could be a dry joint (a joint that looks OK but hasn't melted together properly) I know its cumbersome but I don't think its a good idea to remove the fuse as its there to help prevent catastrophic failure.

It depends how good/bad it is. If its OK then it will be fine but if its not making a good connection then it will heat up as mentioned above. Worst case is it heats up enough to come apart and cause a 'short' (plus & minus touch) then you get fire. Fire 10 bursts on full auto with a few seconds between each burst. Then feel the cable and plug around the solder point to see if anything gets warm. If it does then re-solder it.

Firstly why are you using a Tamiya connector with a 11.1v LiPo??? They are not good for a decent connection. Use Deans or XT The key to soldering is using flux which helps the solder flow but I understand you might not want to buy some just for occasional use. Using 11.1v means a lot of power (relatively of course) so I suggest re-heating the welds until it all melts together properly and doesn't have blobs sticking out. You can hold the iron on for 10-20seconds to get things heated properly (hold the plug with pliers) Its also important to insulate each connection properly because if they touch you'll get a fire or explosion. Shrink wrap tubing is cheap and easy to use (remember to put the piece on before soldering)

Make sure the hop rubber is clean and oil free. I'd use Isopropyl alcohol but you can use soapy water. Easier if you remove it of course and you can check the hop arm is working correctly at the same time.