EDcase

Oh yes, those are nice. Haven't seen those before. They're slightly bigger than the cheapo Deans connectors but nice grip surface.

You should get some heat shrink tubing Great for covering and protecting joints. Also good to keep two or more wires together.

If you want the absolute best trigger response then a MOSFET with pre-cocking is the best option overall. If you want something better than it is now without the cost/hassle of fitting then I would suggest a high torque Neodymium motor as a much easier upgrade and something you'll benefit from even with a MOSFET.

I bought a pistol from him. Think he's a trader of some kind. Selling at Red Alert site in Newbury. Not 100% happy with it because price was a bit high and it turned out to have a missing rear sight and right safety. (He knocked off £5 but its going to cost me £15 for the sight) I'm not going to bother trying to get money back though as it shoots OK (to the left). I'm hoping it'll be OK once I have a tinker and clean-up

Worth asking your local site if you can become a member with out UKARA yet. I'm sure most will allow it as its money in their pockets and doesn't break any rules. If you get the letter about importing a RIF at least it would be something to justify it...

Where do you get that information? Show us an example where any company has upgraded an airsoft weapon over the UK legal limit. Some manufacturers do provide their products over our limits from the factory because other countries have higher power limits. Legally those should be downgraded to sell in the UK but many retailers fail to do that. That's different to purposely making one illegal.

True, but we'll know and I won't be purchasing from them.

Welcome Yep, lots of interesting info around here if you dig deep enough 😄

The only advice I can give is to try and become a member at an airsoft site near you. Some sites have memberships which reduce the price of game days & purchases. This may help you prove to the authorities you're intention to play airsoft.

I got a Specna SA-E03 a year ago and it shoots great out of the box. No mods done to it yet. I think the Edge range are a good choice.

Yep, if wiggling cables makes the vibration occur then there's a dodgy connection somewhere. The problem is finding it. If you'll be doing more soldering its worth getting some soldering flux. It helps the solder flow better and makes is so much easier to get a good join.

Welcome. Sounds like you've done some good reading 👍 The CYMA M14 (CM032) is select fire (semi/auto) but you'd have to change the spring to reduce power if wanting to use auto. You could change back and lock to semi if you want to go sniper/marksman. (The EBR might be easier to go that route) As Roger said, now is not a good time to buy as stock is very low on everything. Have a look for some threads about 'best' new toys to start with. It really is about choosing the look you want and then deciding on the best one for bang to buck ratio. (And then trying to find one in stock)

That does sound awesome tho 😉

If you don't mind the looks/ergonomics, the P90 really is as compact as you can get and with a small suppressor you can also have a longer inner barrel.

Yeah, PB are good at sorting problems in my experience. I've had a couple of occasions when a rif had to be returned due to damage and recently an error in the sale information that it was metal but turned out to be plastic. The first time (a couple of years ago) they arranged courier pickup from my house but more recently they sent a code for the courier return and I had to arrange it myself then took it to a drop-off point.

I hate those cut down M4/AR things 🤮 There's only one clear choice... The MP5 SD 😁 The sliding stock is best for versatility. And having the suppressor means you can fit a longer inner barrel if you want to up the fps a bit.

The idea is to weather it and keep it working 😆

Not surprising really

Exactly, its a clear indicator of someone who didn't win that battle 😉

We do regard two-tones as a sign of impatience by the owner. 😁

Would be a good opportunity to convert all connections to Deans aka T-Connectors You can easily make a Mini-Tamiya to Deans adaptor if you still want to use the charger for RC as well.

Yep, as @concretesnailsaid, something went wrong with the prep of the bare metal so the first coat didn't adhere properly. You'll have to take it all off then rough up the surface with some heavy steel wool (you can get at the pound shop for cleaning pots & pans) or around 400 grit sandpaper. Then degrease the whole thing with Isopropyl alcohol or kitchen degreaser. A primer coat will ensure good results because that's what its for but you could try a thin layer of paint straight away and then test it to see if it stays. Oh and don't use Nuprol paint. Use car spray paints (Enamel)

I wear almost all my airsoft toys to look used and more authentic (without going too far to hurt resale value too much) Having worked in a film studio props department obviously helped with the practice and guidance but youtube can provide a lot of information now. You just need something to practice on but its hard to really mess things up completely. As @rocketdogbertsaid, look for plenty of reference to know what to aim for. As a starting point, you can use steel wool (the ones from the pound shop for cleaning pots etc) Rub on metal parts to remove paint in areas that would naturally get worn. Start gently doing figure '8' all over and continue until satisfied with the result. (It will take about an hour to do a rifle depending how worn you want it and how much metal there is) Don't use sand-paper as its very difficult to be even. For wood. You can do a quick/easy method that's reversible or go full on to really make it look authentic. The easy one is to spray a THIN coat of matt black all over it and then rub most of it off with the same steel wool as before. Very gently in figure '8's again. (circles are not even) You should probably check youtube for the more involved method which involves staining and giving the wood some bashing as well. This is my CYMA M14 with plastic furniture. Light wear on the metal and the darkening effect on the 'wood'