mightyjebus

don't know yet as I haven't stripped it that far. it's on my to-do list

A brief history of the RS Honey Badger. Developed in 300 BLK ammunition for the replacement of the US SOG MP5 SD range however it was never adopted but AAC and then Q went on to refine the Honey Badger and offer it to the civilian market. Currently the range includes an SBR, Pistol (actually an SBR but with brace instead of stock) and lastly a suppressed model. The Double Eagle M904G. Double Eagle is normally a name I have shunned as they have made some pretty bad, low powered airsoft guns over the years and it would take a lot for me to even consider buying anything from DE. When I saw the new M904G from DE appear on the Taiwangun website I almost overlooked but I thought I’d have a closer look at it seemed to be a good external copy of the real Honey Badger. After looking into DE’s offering a bit more it got my interest when it claimed it had an adjustable trigger, Mosfet as standard and claimed to be able to binary fire out the box. For info Binary fire is the latest crazy in the US RS market where you get 1 round fired when you pull the trigger and another round off when you release the trigger. I have a mate in the US who has built an SBR in .45 with a binary trigger and it’s mental to fire. Another selling factor for me was the price. DE are offering various models and the M904G can be had for £106. That’s right, an AEG with mosfet, binary trigger, hair trigger and adjustable burst fire (1-5 rounds per trigger pull) for 104 quid. It’s either going to extremely crap or extremely awesome at that price. So after ordering and waiting a few days the AEG has turned up. It’s packaged inside a nice box with foam protection. Inside the box you get the AEG, Hicap magazine (300 rds), cleaning/unjamming rod, a wind up key for the magazine (also has the standard wheel on the bottom to wind if you want), a spare Deans connector, a Deans to Mini Tamiya connector, a decent manual and a Mosfet setup guide. The rifle is made of polymer apart from the outer barrel, Flash hider, Gas pipe, Fake bolt cover, sliding stock rails, part of the magazine catch, charging handle and the nuts and bolts holding everything together. The polymer used is very thick and has no wobbles, creaks or thin spots. Overall it seems rock solid and will take a lot of abuse. Looking in a bit more detail, starting from the front and working back, the flash hider is a metal copy of the Q Cherry Bomb flash hider which has threads on the outside to take a Q flash hider (Thunder Chicken or Trash Panda suppressors) however I don’t think anyone makes an airsoft version of these so if you want to fit a suppressor or another flash hider you an as the flash hider is held on with a grub screw to the -14mm threaded outer barrel. The metal outer barrel has a low-profile gas block fitted and is surrounded by a M lock style rail system. The top of the rail is full picatinny and is held on using a unique clamp system which relies on a nut to hold everything in place. The clamp system seems to be made of metal and also seems rock solid. The upper receiver is in the honey badger shape with cut-outs for the sliding stock. There are also some trades for the FALCON fire control system which is the name for the mosfet inside the gearbox. The dust cover looks to be metal and is spring loaded. The charging handle is a raptor style one and when pulled back makes the dust cover flick down however the fake bolt cover doesn’t lock to the rear so you need to hold the charging handle to the rear to adjust the Hop up. The lower receiver has a fake bolt release, metal receiver pins that are locked in place with allen headed screws, a DE trademark, an extended mag release button, plastic selectors and a very well textured and ergonomic pistol grip. The trigger is plastic but doesn’t have any flex when pulled to the rear. The trigger guard is designed for gloves and is moulded into the lower receiver (just like the real thing). The stock is in the honey badger style and inside is the battery wires which have a deans connector as standard. The Deans to Mini Tamiya in the box allow you to use a battery with a mini Tamiya connector if you want. The sliding stock has 3 positions but if you wanted to extend it more then cutting slots into the metal rails wouldn’t be an issue. The sliding stock is spring loaded so when you press the 2 side buttons to free the stock it pops out slightly making it easier to deploy. The stock cap is more like a cross between a stock pad and brace as it has a cutout on the lower part and there is a little lateral movement but nothing to panic about. There is also a sling loop at the point where the stock meets the lower receiver. The AEG comes with a set of polymer iron sights and these seem to be a copy of the IMI Defense polymer flip up sights. The sights have working elevation and windage adjustments and lack the IMI trademarks. Let’s move onto how it fires. So attaching a 7.4v Lipo in the stock tube you hear the mosfet beep to let you know it’s good. Out of the box it is set for maximum trigger pull, safe-semi-auto but after a couple of minutes following the supplied mosfet programming guide I had it on a hair trigger, with binary fire and burst set to 3 bb’s per trigger pull. Resetting it back to standard takes about 5 seconds if want to start again. With the 7.4v fitted it really is a snappy firing AEG. So snappy that when I fitted a 11.1 Lipo I didn’t see much different in semi but to be honest all this goes out the window anyway when you have the binary trigger set as when you spam the trigger in Semi there are BB’s flying all over the place. It’s awesome. Mine is firing too hot for UK sites so I’ll need to change the spring out for something a bit lower in FPS. I’ll also mention that the hop unit is a rotary designed one and looks to work well with .2g’s and I’ll try it out later with some heavier BB’s to see what it can handle. Part 2 will be a strip down and there is very little I want to change externally (unlike me) and all I will do to this one is fit a holosight and look at possibilities for fitting a tracer. Initial impressions are that it’s ridiculously good AEG for the money and I’m looking at Double Eagle in a new light. Here’s a size comparison of the 904G next to a ARP 9.

I'll have a review up in a day or 2. initial opinion is it's fantastic. DE have been terrible for years but this is their attempt to enter the better quality low budget range and so far they have knocked it out the park with this model. it's almost at the price point that if you get a few games out of it and then it breaks, chuck it away and buy another but so far the quality doesn't look like it will break anytime soon. my only gripe so far is the space for the battery isn't great 7.4v 1300Mah LIPO fits but I want to run something bigger so I've already designed a battery extension which will be free to print.

correct...they have a few different models and the longer the rail the higher the price but the internals are all the same.

Double Eagle M904G. 106 quid for a ridiculously good little AEG. Hair trigger, Binary firing and 1 to 5 round burst option on full auto. Think ARP 9 but better.

yeah it fires 40mm moscarts. inside the RPG is a long black tube that you load up and once fired need to pull the tube out to reload.

take apart the pistol grip which is a clamshell design. This will allow you to remove the trigger unit which should uncock it if the spring is loaded readdy to fire. Put it back together and see if it jams again. If it does then that means stripping the whole thing down to see wht part is causing the problem.

Resin 3D printed Gas plug installed until the VFC one gets here from Japan.

added the rest of the trademarks currently 3D printing a fake gas plug as I'm impatient.

naa they are Pmag grips. Not seen them on sale for a bit but they do add extra grip when removing the mag.

While waiting for the VFC gas block to tuen up I decided to have a go at doing the trade marks. I also added a end plate sling point. Trades were cut on a vinyl cutter and then spray painted. Once almost dry the vinyl is pulled off to leave the trademarks. The the whole thing is given a coat of matt varnish to stop them wearing off.

it's out of stock on octagon https://www.octagonairsoft.com/product-page/toystar-metal-body-for-k2-aeg-air-cocking but it might be worth talking to 707 arsenal as they might be able to get you one.

That looks good. The K2 always reminds me of a cross between an AR10, a M16 and a FNC. I'm tempted to build a K2 as well and I see that you can get a metal upper and lower receiver for the K".

AK5C RPG 26

I swapped the pistol grip for a VFC 416 pistol grip and I can confirm that it fits and the motor has no issues turning over the gearbox. I've swapped back to the DB pistol grip as I prefer it. I've now fitted a Gate Aster to mine and it wasn't painless but it's now fitted and working. The Aster has a hole in the centre that is used to secure to the gearbox using a screw with insulating washer. The gearbox shell has a raised post and the original trigger contacts are secured to the gearbox shell with a screw using this post. The Aster hole doesn't fit over this post. You have 2 choices, 1 is to remove the post and 2 is to enlarge the hole on the Aster. I went for option 2 and increased the hole size to 4.5mm. Drilling a bigger hole in an Aster is going to invalid the warranty so don't do this unless you are brave or stupid. The gearbox shell has some extra gears on the outside, similar to a Dboys PDW, and you need to correctly align them when rebuilding the gearbox to make sure the Ambi selectors work. When re-assembling the right hand side selector it should look like this: The left hand side should look like this: Inside the gearbox you will find steel gears, 8mm bearings, vented cylinder, plastic toothed piston and the rest is all standard V2 stuff. Everything is an OK standard so I'm not going to change anything until it breaks but being a V2 you can go crazy with upgrades if you want. I mentioned earlier that the Magazine release screwed into the button but this was wrong. It actually uses a small grub screw to hole the button to the post. It's the first time I've seen this design and it seems to be durable. So that's the review for the Double Bell BY-813S. Here's a comparison of what I started with to how it looks now. The only thing more I will do is fit an enchanced charging handle latch and fit a VFC A5 gas block when it turns up. My conclusion is that this is a good budget AEG which works fine without modification however it's easy to upgrade and being a standard V2 gearbox you will find loads of parts available to make it a very good AEG. It's a sub £200 AEG and is the same standard as a CYMA, DBOYS or any of the other budget AEG range. If you are after a HK416A5 replica then this isn't a exact match but it's cheap enough that you can buy the parts needed to make it look a lot closer without breaking the bank. This is the second Bell replica I have and both work fine so I'm now happy to go and buy another if a model appears that I want and I know that with a few upgrades it will preform very well.

yup..its the 1 or 4 mag version

I spent a bit of time earlier making the DB 416A5 look more like the real thing. I painted the stock pipe, trigger guard and fire selectors I sprayed the fake bolt cover gun metal. I removed the outer barrel extension and added a 1 inch extension and added the original flash hider. I cut down the inner barrel so that it fits inside the new outer barrel size. The Brown paint looks lighter in the photos than with the Mk1 eyeball. Next up will be fitting the Gate Aster and I'll get some photos of the gearbox internals as I go along.

feel free to post what you want on this thread. the more info the better. I cranked the gearbox open after I spent around 2 hours trying to figure out how to get it out of the receiver. The hold up was removing the selector levers. Normally you have allen bolts holding the selectors to the side of the gearbox and on this model this is the same however there are fake plates over the top of the allen bolt that have to be prised off to allow you to unscrew the allen bolt and remove both selectors. It took me ages to figure that out since there are no manuals available. The motor is an unbranded one and spins easily by hand so this rules out anything fancy. It does the job well in the stock setup and looks to be well made. The gearbox outer shell looks to be well cast and because it has a quick change spring it comes apart easily unlike the older generation of V2 gearboxes which had a tendency to thown parts far and wide when you separated the 2 halves. Inside the gearbox everything looks to be decent quality. The compression is good, there is a selector/delayer chip already installed and the piston has the first tooth removed. Shimming seems fine, grease isn't overly done and my only gripe is the anti reversal latch is loose in it's hole making it fall over when you are trying to put the gearbox halves back together. The selector plate on the left hand side is metal and I think it has 7mm bearings but I need to get my calipers and double check.

This AEG is loosely based on the HK 416A5 model and I go into details further down this review listing the things not quite right with it to make it a proper looking 416A5. First up is the company Double Bell. Double Bell used to just be called “Bell” and I did a review on one of their AK47’s about 15 years ago (it was crap) so I think 15 years is long enough to revisit them and see what they are doing now. The new name “Double Bell” came about when they bought the Dboys factory and toolings and started pushing out Dboys M4’s but have since up’d their game and are now making their own versions of weapons in AEG form. They also produce about 300 different Glock pistols in different styles and I have a G17L which runs like a train and was cheap to boot so I’m hoping for good things from this AEG. Full disclosure – I don’t know anyone form Bell or Double Bell and bought this AEG from Taiwangun for £197 delivered to my door. I’d normally start with an unboxing picture but since it came in a plain brown cardboard box there didn’t seem to be any point. Inside the box you get the full metal AEG, a Hi-cap magazine and a little Z shaped square key to wind up the magazine as the Hicap doesn’t have the traditional thumb wheel on the bottom to load the magazine. The only other thing in my box was a sheet from Taiwangun telling me it had been tested and 10 shots recorded with a FPS too high for all UK sites (420 approx with hop off). First thing I will do is change the spring to bring the FPS down to 340ish. Going back to the magazine some people might like the realism of having a hicap without the thumb wheel poking out the bottom but I think I’ll end up loosing the Z key used to wind it so I’ll throw it into my spares box and use some other midcaps I have floating around. The Magazine doesn’t have any markings and the black paint seems thin. The Magazine is based on the Gen 1 Aluminium style magazine fist introduced with the HK 416. Let’s talk about the HK416A5 and how this replica compares to the real thing. Let’s start from the back and work forward. The Stock – The AEG has a nice copy of the real thing and the back plate comes off allowing a battery to be fitted to the Mini Tamiya connector inside the stock tube. I can fit a 11.1V 1300Mah sized LIPO inside the stock no problem. The sock doesn't have the HK trade found on the real thing. Stock Tube – The real thing is dark earth in colour and the AEG is black. A quick blast of dark earth paint should sort that out. The stock is tight on the stock tube but there is a slight wobble when locked into the 5 lock points on the stock tube. A lot of AEG’s suffer from this and it caused by the catch/rod that goes into the 5 position holes is too small in diameter for the hole Lower receiver – The lower receiver on the AEG has the correct Ambi controls for fire selector, bolt release and Magazine release. All work flawlessly and when you pull the charging handle to the rear the fake bolt cover locks open so you can adjust the hop unit and closes when you press either of the bolt release levers. I like the fact that the magazine release goes together like the real thing and the rod screws into the button and doesn’t use a screw to hold the button on. The fire selector is black whereas on the real thing they are tan coloured (again a quick blast of paint will sort that out). The rear body pin is captive and the front body pin has a spring and pin retainer just like the real thing. This is good as it stops you loosing the body pin if you have the AEG in half. You don’t need to take out the rear body pin to separate the upper and lower receiver. My AEG doesn’t have the HK trades however I believe that the Far East versions do have the correct trades. Mines is limited to the markings for the safe-semi-auto around the selector switch. The trigger guard is the correct shape (Half-moon) but it’s the wrong colour and should be tan/dark earth. The pistol grip is nice and fits in the hand nicely but it’s actually at the wrong angle. The 416 family use a sharper angle on the pistol grip to improve point ability when holding the real thing but this AEG has a more traditional AEG styled slope to it. I have a spare VFC grip (in black) that I will try to fit to see if it’s possible but in all honesty, I like the one on the DB 416A5 so will probably swap back. The paint finish is in a nice dark earth colour and on the website I thought it looked too light but now that I have it in front of me I think it’s a good match. It seems pretty durable and doesn’t scratch easily. Upper Receiver – there is a slight wobble between the upper and lower receiver with a slight gap between the two. I have a similar gap on some of my TM NGRS rifles so it’s nothing to get excited about. I think I can get rid of the wobble by adding a “Magic Pin” to replace the front body pin. The rear sight is the correct type and correct colour (on the VFC A5 it’s Tan but on the real thing most pictures show it as black.) The cocking handle is black and has a traditional latch whereas the real thing is either black or tan and has an enhanced latch. It should be possible to replace the standard latch with an enhanced one if you can find one. The dust cover is plastic just like the real thing. The fake bolt is so wrong. It should be black and have the HK trades on it. I’m not sure how this will hold up to being sprayed black as it will probably wear off quite quickly. I’ll be on the lookout for a standard AEG style fake bolt in the correct colour with trades. The rail – The rail is the newer 416 style with a front sight built into the top at the front of the rail. This pops up under spring tension but on the AEG the spring is pretty weak and it doesn’t take much to knock it back down. I’ll look at this in more detail to see if I can improve the spring tension but for since I’ll probably run some sort of optic I can’t seeing this being a problem. The rail is held onto the upper receiver in the traditional HK style with a large barrel nut with 1 slot for the bolt to pass through and hold the rail into position. The rail is a free-floating rail for anyone interested. It’s also worth noting that the bolt that holds the rail to the barrel nut changed to a slotted screw type head on the A5 but on the DB 416A5 it uses an allen bolt. Outer Barrel and gas Block – This is probably the area that suffers the most for being unlike the RS 416A5. On the real thing the Gas Block is now adjustable for “Normal” or “Suppressed” whereas on the AEG version they have used the older vented style. There should be a plug sticking out the front of the gas block which in real life is used to adjust the amount of gas going to the piston. The DB 416A5 is meant to be the 14.5 inch barrelled version however the barrel profile is wrong. The DB has a traditional M4 styled outer barrel but it should have a solid 1 piece outer barrel with bayonet lug and pop up front sight. Now if this bugs you as much as it bugs me then all is not lost. The outer barrel is 2 piece and the front part that goes from the flash hider to the front of the gas block screws off (-14mm threads). One surprise for me was that the inner barrel goes all the way through the 14.5 inch outer barrel so if you want to run the AEG at 11 inches then you will either need to cut the inner barrel or fit a smaller length one. If you decide to run a mock silencer then having the longer barrel might work for you as you can just thread the silencer onto the gas block and have a full length barrel. Gas piston – This is a traditional 416 style gas piston housed inside the front rail. I noticed a slight rattle coming from the front rail and when I removed the rail I seen that the gas piston doesn’t plug into the upper receiver properly and is just kind of sat there. I think with a bit of heavy handling this might come loose so to fix mine I’m going to cut the piston slightly so that it fits into the upper receiver. The real thing The flash hider is a traditional bird cage type with -14mm threads held onto the outer barrel by a grub screw. This will allow you to put on whatever flash hider takes your fancy. The internals Popping out the front body pin allows the upper and lower parts to be separated. This gives you access to the hop unit and inner barrel. The hop unit is a 1 piece metal unit with a traditional adjustment dial on the right hand side. Looking down the inner barrel I can see that it works as intended however I did notice that the inner barrel was dirty so if you buy one of these make sure you clean the inside of the barrel. I'll cover the gearbox and lower internals in Part 2. How does it shoot? This is probably the biggest question and in all honesty it fires fine. It doesn’t have a Mosfet so will seem sluggish when compared to a Specna Arms M4 with a Gate Aster fitted and when using a 11.1V LIPO it fired a bit snappier. For CQB ranges it’s going to run fine and if you want to reach out and touch someone at a Woodland site then the normal upgrades would apply. Range now is about 45 meters so not unusable but could be improved. My plans for this AEG is to make it look a bit more like the real HK416A5. This includes swapping the Gas Block for a VFC one (£18), removing the 14.5 barrel extension and fitting a smaller one to take the barrel length to 11 inches. I’m going to fit a Gate Aster and S hop the inner barrel which will also be cut down the inner barrel to the inside of the flash hider. I’ll probably try and find a spray paint that matches the Dark Earth colour and spray up the black parts that should be Dark Earth. Once I rip out the gearbox I'll post up part 2.

Double Bell HK616A5 (sort of) I'm going to do an old school review on this one and post up on here shortly for anyone who might be interested.

This lockdown is giving me time to bring back some AEG's that have sat in bits for too long.

yes..it's ugly although I think it looks better than the ARX160 which reminds me of a Salmon with an M4 mag stuck in it!

something you don't see very often, Beretta RX4 rifle.

so each type has a different diameter for gas to flow into the valve 3.5, 4, 4.5 and 5mm and each also has an adjustment screw to allow more or less gas into the cylinder. The question is, and there is nothing on the G&P website, what values does each 1 cover? Anyone seen a chart with say Model A with 134A at 20C ranges from 310 - 340 FPS? The only other way to find out is to buy 1 and see what it provides and then possibly go buy another size based on the results from testing the first one and hoping you got it right.

ebairsoft have thrown up a load of G&P MWS parts on their website. Anyone know why there are 4 different adjustable power nozzle valves?