Tommikka

I’m not so experienced in airsoft, just having run some airsoft games at one particular site, run mini games at a major event which in some years ran both paintball and airsoft in parallel, been involved in publicity for a society and have seen airsofters at a few sites. The bread and butter of a site is its local population, and balances between one off/occasional rentals and a regular crowd. An ‘event’ can be themed and aimed at a particular flavour - but is dependant on a customer base that wants to play that flavour. The regular crowd is likely to consist of those people who are local which means they will want to play their preferred style. On these types of days in both airsoft and paintball I have always seen a mix of the woodland, military cosplay, stitch counters, speeders, casuals etc and a local crowd may happen to tip to one or a couple of these. Among all of the above there are the elitists and those who want some fun. Quite often there are individuals who span a variety and but may have the look of only one on the day Arseholes are arseholes What will make or break a site is how the staff and regulars handle the arseholes (and whether or not they are the arseholes)

What @Cannonfoddersaid The ‘best’ place to buy is at the site you will be using it The most economical way is to bulk buy …. And bulk means bulk Pyro needs to be posted by approved options, with carriers that provide suitable options and in suitably marked packaging. The cost and availability of these keeps rising in £ and reducing in options. (Declaration of interests - I have a sponsorship relationship with Enola Gaye ) They have put up useful information on transporting, storing and general safety guides in articles on their website, eg: https://enolagaye.com/pyrotechnic-regulations-necessary-inconvenience-un-necessary-evil/ I recommend buying from the site you play at for ease of those issues and also it means that the sites get to have their share of profit, so the business doing the service of providing a site to play at get a share It also means that if there is a bad batch of pyro * then you can go straight back to the sites shop. * do read the instructions on how to ignite the specific pyro: Be gentle with friction pyro and if it’s a ring pull then clarify which way to pull

1) Change: A series of rooms/corridors quickly becomes boring once people have planned out known routes and angles It is very dependant on the construction, but ideally you would have elements to open and block off routes - if a ‘real’ building then open/close doorways avoid actually locking them for safety - but have a rule such as a closed door cannot be opened (unless ‘breaching’ is part of the game) eg tape over and the door becomes a wall If a zone is constructed with board and doorways/corridors are fairly consistent in size then extra boards could be slotted in/hung up to close a route 2) have objectives Find a thing, retrieve it or deliver it Find multiple things - parts of a device or a bomb that needs a key or code to disarm Have time trials - complete it in the quickest time Have simulated missions - eg don’t play against each other but have one person set up targets (friendly and unfriendly). Then run time trials to clear unfriendlies with a penalty for eliminating a friendly A similar manner without one person knowing the target layout is multi context targets - (a basic target with shapes and colours) pick a shape / colour combination target then time trial that Layout design - we all think we know what is ‘wrong’ with any zones layout, but usually are not taking into account the game context. You would have thought that a fort would not have great big wide entrances and that towers would not have wide open backs - these are both design features to make a fort attackable in a game When designing make sure that there are defendable points that can be attacked Otherwise one good defender in a fortress turns a game into the worst day for attackers as opposed to one good defender bedded in that can be flanked and eventually defeated Both winners and losers should walk out smiling, and a well balanced site and its games should give a mix of winning / losing. Soeedsoft is a very good point CQB lends itself well to fast aggressive play, whereas tactical slowness tends to be the right thing in reality to stay alive it does not achieve anything in a reasonable time The classic cosplay tactical airsofter will stack up at a corner, and unless a group who have practiced CQB together will bottle neck themselves The speedsofter will run past them, spray a room, then respawn while the next speedsoft behind them clears the next room If that becomes a problem in your game format then the penalties for being eliminated need to be greater (one life games?) and the same goes for taking too long stacked up (time limited games)

In addition to the common physical factor being your rail, have you also considered the effect of parralex error from your head/eye position? A little ‘adjustment’ can be made to your rail - permanently by filing down an edge or less permanently by slipping in some paper or card on one side to shift the sights relative position when mounting. There isn’t too much that can be done about parralex error, but extra layers of rails or an offset rail can move the sight to what may be a ‘better’ position

BZ are well established in paintball, and were (or still are) the official Tippman techs for the UK They have been in airsoft for a number of years They ran a CQB tactical ‘experience’ at a particular event, and when chatting I recall being told that “something new is coming” which was then announced as the Tippman airsoft range Do be aware that their web store has been cloned more than once - make sure that you deal with the real BZ

I’ve played the site at their paintball big games They are a long established & experienced paintball site, with a good reputation in the paintball community I’ve walked through but not played their killhouse (I believe that it is exclusive to airsoft). This looks well laid out Many zones have a mini safe area on field, which can allow you to stay out when eliminated and reload etc if playing shorter games saving the walk back My only dislike is that during the main big game when multiple zones are active is that there are no short cuts out to the safe zone - or I haven’t found them (They have a lot of safety netting up and set pathways - exits might get opened on standard days, but I’ve had to turn back a few times in the big games when trying to take a shortcut to the main safe zone)

How about “Thanks for getting sight of the site back up.”

@RostokMcSpoons Have you tried Dye tech support ? You’ll need the German office for European support, in the past they’ve just posted out the smalls. (It used to be far easier when they also had a UK tech office, but the German office has been just as good for me) https://shop.dyepaintball.com/pages/contact?srsltid=AfmBOorgmlF_FCfuDTMJrD5JtEd60B-lSZMIzfWkSrPvj1P6OqFKR1RF

Some of the Dye tech manuals are here: https://shop.dyepaintball.com/pages/manuals?srsltid=AfmBOop8pO79BHfo67Zb4XbjDwib7wBlKfLSFWeGatzUYtyy92B0TKbz and one of them gives the internal parts which in this case has the external o-ring (‘standard’ bottle o-ring) as a ‘0015 PU80’ and the internal piston o-rings ‘013 PU80’ and ‘008 PU80’ Assuming the right match you are after the ‘013 PU80’ Parts reference numbers on o-rings usually indicate part of the size, which would imply 13mm - but it’s probably 13mm outter diameter, and perhaps then 11mm inner diameter

The ‘standard’ bottle o-ring would sit further down, which in paintball would be the top of the cylinders bonnet, (as per the images below) whereas your problem o-ring is further up and as discovered a little smaller Almost everything is to an industry standard size ….. but there are many standard sizes to choose from! Am I right in thinking that you’re looking at the internal elements at about 4:20 of this video on regulator servicing ?

It’s actually very common to factor in for pricing on the basis of “how much will the market bear” As mentioned when pricing an item there two sets of initial costs (design, tooling and development) and the production costs (materials, energy consumed, production line staff) These mean you have an initial cost per item (the actual cost per item plus initial outlay to recoup apportioned across an estimated amount to be produced There are other overheads to take into account of generally running the business If you put together those costs that need to be recouped, and then a basic percentage on top to make it worth doing then you have a starting price. Would anyone buy it at that price? This is where you can flex up/down based on what someone might spend. £p per shot is an indicator that the prospective buyer could be comparing in the shop They also may be looking at the total cost of a purchase - if all are sold in the same quantity then this still reflects £p per shot. But if you offer other quantities you can influence a little ….. x BB might cost more than y BB per shot, but a bag of 3/4 the quantity can compensate against that - pay more per BB but less per purchase When it comes to what ought to be a more consistent : accurate BB the customer might think differently and work out their £p per elimination, with x BB cheaper per shot but flying in circles with every BB per burst missing the target There is also a bit of psychology to be had as well. Price up three BBs: x BB is low priced y BB costs a bit more z BB is higher and looks excessively priced against x BB Let’s say that they are all the same BB from the same factory with just a different label and price Hardly anyone is going to be a cheapskate with x BB, just those who have to count the pennies or plan to just pray and spray Some will consider themselves special with fine tuned consistent RIFs that deserve the best and pay the premium of z BB Most will stick to the middle option of y BB, they aren’t cheapskates and aren’t so flush to splash out, they will go for the one that’s inbetween (The Goldilocks principle) Just by looking at the price the assumption is that one is cheaper and lesser quality, another is more premium and the middle one must be ‘just right’ This perception is that there is a reason for the price ranges, whereas in the theoretical piece it’s only for the perception If you really do have a difference (weight and / or production quality) then the materials and the equipment can make a difference in the item cost, but it still has to stand on whether people will pay that (the market bears the price) You could have a set quality level and and efficient process resulting in cheap costs - but price purely based on a percentage uplift to that would result in a cheap retail price - and customers could dismiss it as too cheap. If you’re lucky enough to be in that position you can bump up the price and profit, giving you more leeway for items that end up with a tighter margin to keep within a price that buyers will be willing to pay

I’ve made and used many maps for sites, which makes particular sense when I’ve designed and run events on sites but I have printed and even made my own maps of sites that I’ve just played at I’ve been especially fond of overlaying a sites feature/zone sketch map onto aerial maps giving context. I prefer event days/weekends where the entire site is in play rather than a standard day where you play a single zone at a time walking to it as a group. But it’s still handy to have some context I come from the Orkney islands famed for their Viking history and explorers. But my family tree traces back to a shipwrecked sailor, and the only exploring genes I have come from those who have discovered new lands by getting lost. I am also the man who lost his stack of poles, rope and coloured material when constructing objective flag poles. I had placed them on a convenient ridge roughly in the centre of each of the objectives that I was building flag poles. This meant wandering in decreasing circles to find the stash of supplies to build the next objective flag pole it is very useful to have a pocket guide to give me a clue that if I walk through a cowboy town instead of a missile base that I’m walking away from the safe zone instead of towards it

For target shooting at home you don’t need any of the VCRA defences - a brightly coloured IF will shoot as well as if it were a RIF. Bright IFs can be anything from a cheap BB shooter to a bells & whistles airsoft gun with a paint job

The best way to find out about the gear is to play, check out what others are using …… and take part in the players favorite part of the hobby - showing off and talking about their gear Everyone has a preference so getting the three games in gives you a few chances to chat and get a feel before you get to make a ‘sensible’ opinion on what’s good for you as opposed to day zero or day one shiney things Pistols are fun, but for most of the time they are weight carried in a holster and the rest of the time are dual wield joy whilst you get eliminated 10 to 1 for the one pub war story

Check the inner, outer and cross section dimensions and consider the material. Some uses need a specific material for the right performance, but general air line use can usually be done with basic rubbers. If the right size or close enough tolerance then a few cheap o-rings will do A selection set will give you more o-rings for your money, but if you have no use for the assorted sizes then they are just as much of a waste https://www.allorings.com/British-o-ring-Size-Chart https://www.aceseal.com/o-ring-materials#:~:text=O-rings are mechanical gaskets,Rubber and Fluorocarbon (Viton).

Look out for offers on local Facebook groups and/or ask local independent retailers about the boxes their deliveries come in Their commercial waste disposal costs them money, and they will have limited stock room space to hang on to boxes & other packaging Locally my friend is always listing free boxes, and ideally with quick collection. (She’ll offer ‘same day/tommorow’ collection of good quality boxes before breaking them down (so anyone who wants boxes for removals or storage needs to get them quick) but for packaging they will still be just as good, as you would be reshaping a big square box into a long rectangular box. Even better that would make you popular with the shops is the extra packaging, such as foam wotsits, bubble wrap and especially their suppliers shredded cardboard recycled into packaging. Then add an abundance of tape, a bin bag black plastic wrap and stick on your label

Am I right in thinking that you need a line with ‘standard’ female to male, as per a typical fill nipple? If so then rather than the classic remote air line with a bottle regulator mount, you can use a “remote fill line” / “fill whip” (From reputable suppliers) they are designed to run 4500psi as an extension from a fill station into the cylinders fill nipple. Cheaper / lower rated ones may exist which would suit a 200psi etc - but personally I’d say to still go for a fully rated one E.g. https://www.bzpaintball.co.uk/valken-v-tactical-fill-whip-hose Check the length for your needs, these tend to be straight lines rather than coiled, and don’t come with an on/off valve as when used for fills the bottles fill nipple valve does the job

I have that RAP4 in DPM …..:. All you need is a spray can https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/196531661331?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=4wg8Ejj_QSW&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=4wg8Ejj_QSW&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Not only the ‘law of sod’ But a forward facing peak will also increase the number of hits that make their way towards your google area - and the law of sod guarantees that those ones will direct towards gaps The peak adds a one sided corridor that deflects near misses into face hits

I suspect that admins should know about this post …..

£1400 for a job lot of ‘things’? I have ‘things’ to meet many wallet sizes, let me know your budgets and I’ll help anyone out with ‘things’ to fit their personal budgets I can do ‘things’ in job lots or on an individual ‘things’ as required

Their checkout page gives you the answer: Duties and Taxes All product prices are exclusive of customs duties and taxes.

Any item sent across international boundaries requires a customs declaration - so the sender must make a declaration When it arrives at the border that existing declaration might suffice, but the recipient is the responsible party on any imported goods. Its most likely that the recipient will be required to complete a declaration - even if it is just verifying the senders declaration Two key areas are covered: 1). Is the import allowed? This covers whether the item is illegal / legal and also whether there are any qualifying requirements of the recipient (eg is it a U.K. legal RIF and does the recipient have a VCRA Defence ?) 2) Is there a tax/duty/fee to be paid for ? Sometimes the sender handles payment of tax/duty/fees and supply paperwork with the declaration (You ought to already know this service is being provided at the point of sale - if not then the default is that you are liable as the importer Sometimes a ‘handling agent’ acts as middle man I had that last year with some custom gear, it was designed and manufactured overseas, sent to their U.K. rep, and I was contacted by him with the bill (Rather than being a true agent on import, it was more of him acting as a U.K. retailer selling my custom gear to me after I had dealt with the overseas design house) Provide your UKARA details in the notes, plus in your delivery address and assume that you will need to fill in a declaration confirming the import plus a bill for 20% UK VAT and handling fees

I assume you were wearing rental goggles? These are much more likely to fog up because they have been worn funny hundreds of people before (unless in the post covid era you were lucky enough to be at a site that has opted to use fresh goggles per rental player) Any manufacturer anti-fog coating on a lens is degraded as soon as any form of product (other than minimal water) is used to clean a lens. Rental / old lenses will gradually lose some of their anti fog capabilities over time, and as the lens gets cleaned. There are after market anti fog products such as cat crap which help, but they should be avoided on new lenses as long as possible to make the best of the manufacturers coating - but that doesn’t work for everyone and an individual may need anti fog help from the beginning More important than the manufacturers antifog or after market anti fog is air flow which minimises the work for the anti fog coating i4s are seen as the recommended goggle, but other premium goggles are available. Dyes tend to be smaller goggles, which is attractive to airsofters, and also due to the smaller goggle there is more airflow from the lack of goggle surface area. A key benefit shared with other premium goggles is the rubber material, so if the chin would get in the way of you aiming you can lean in and it bends away from your guns stock etc Everything is personal though, and the ideal is to try on a few options of different full face goggles to fit your personal head size and shape, part face goggles accompanied by a mesh guard etc, or minimising down to glasses and a scarf etc (Remembering that scarves give zero air flow, so may be making a fresh problem) If you can then visit an airsoft or paintball retailer (noting that most stock supplies for both) and try on goggles

You sir, are a scholar and a gentleman https://youtu.be/3LkGRxjWQ_c?si=MvpdhQwV0nyFGLpz