Tommikka

PW is the working pressure PH is the hydro testing pressure A working pressure of 205 bar is designed for 3000psi The wrong burst disks have been fitted for a 3000psi system they should be 5k and 1.8k It could have been that a 4500 regulator had been fitted to a 3000 cylinder, but you still have the wrong burst disks for that A 4500 cylinder should have 8k and 1.8k It appears that the wrong burst disks have been replaced after a failure The highest pressure burst disk placed nearer to cylinder end protects the cylinder from over filling and be in line with the PH marking - your 3000psi cylinder should have a high burst disk of approx 5000psi The lowest pressure burst disk placed nearer to the end of you regulator protects your equipment in case of the regulator failing and putting out too much output pressure - an output pressure used on aluminum paintball cylinders was originally approx 800psi (for the change from co2 to air) therefore 1800psi burst disks are to blow when excessive pressure is coming out due to a failed regulator allowing full bottle pressure to pass through There is clearly something wrong with the cylinder and regulator setup if 4500 and 8000 psi burst disks are fitted ???? Unless have you misread 1.8k ????

Is it really a 310bar tank? That’s 4500psi Are you reading the markings that include many details and you have read the failure pressure? A 13ci aluminum cylinder designed for 3000psi use is exempt from hydro testing and can be used forever whilst it is physically sound Look it over, if it is fine then for your first question it is OK to use To cause the burst disks to fail there is an issue - if the original disks fail then that could still be attributed to age - they could be weakened over time after many uses and lowered their tolerance. Replace with the appropriate new burst disk for each of them They could also have failed due to regulator failure, in which case a rebuild would apply - or replacement It’s your decision as to whether that’s worth your effort or cost of paying someone compared to replacing with a new cylinder

Just make sure you’re aware of what you are achieving by driving there It is often a lot better to be there in person and able to speak to a person behind the counter If an item is lost in the technical terms of finding that tracking number then it may or may not work to be there - a package of approximate size that ought to be somewhere in a depot is potentially invisible - it’s just as likely that a helpful person still won’t find it on the system nor be able to see in when looking out back For expectation management, before heading off on a trip consider the risk of still not turning up the package. It could have left it’s last tracked point and moved from a depot without being scanned through and ended up somewhere else But it could also be sat there and your presence changes the effort level of system checking / eyeball visuals and you do end up with it in your hands

More likely to be incompetence with a missed scan, ripped label etc. The possibility of pilfering remains but there’s plenty of scope for things to get lost among the system @EDcasehas hit the nail Pincer movement between WGC for UPS compensation and the police for a missing replica The former is what’s required The latter could result in a physical search & review of the internal detailed tracking points

Correct - ‘retail’ postage and business contracted postage can differ. It would of course depend on the business selecting their carriers, methods and cover accordingly Facepalm moment It would be a different matter if they generated labels under a contract with Evri etc, as opposed to directing individuals to use a method that excludes the most common thing that is likely to be sent back by a customer https://www.evri.com/send/what-i-can-and-cannot-send Prohibited items: Weapons and replica weapons – including decorative, deactivated or air powered weapons

All you need for multiple slings for the same or less than the price of a single sling https://amzn.eu/d/9XD5KXM https://amzn.eu/d/0nb88Qk https://amzn.eu/d/5zN1NBy

How about in the blackness of an underground bunker after tossing a flashbang down the corridor ?

There is no right or wrong The C clamp hold can be with or without sling, it’s about stability and control of the barrel tip Slings can just about carrying to ease the load and to allow you to free your hands - in which case it doesn’t matter how tight or loose it is, just that it holds in a manner that you can get back to it. Slings can also be about another point of contact for stability and therefore need some tension. If you have some tension in the sling then this almost counts as being ‘attached’ in a ‘fixed’ position: The combined tension between the sling pulling back to your body, stock against your shoulder and you forearm pulling away gives three points of ‘contact’ steadying the rifle in the direction that you point If it works for you then it’s right - but with the issue of reloads @Wavey_Gravey has it - release the tension by dropping the stock from your shoulder. Consider how flappy the rifle is when hung from the sling to pop your pistol out - if it’s just an emergency couple of shots then it doesn’t matter too much, but if you switch to pistol and carry on with pistol then a flappy rifle is very annoying What works for you works for you So if there’s a problem effecting you then focus on resolving the problem, if there are others saying that you have it wrong then that’s their problem

@Mr haymes @Pseudotectonic The key point on airsoft is that compliant airsoft guns that are within the definition linked are no longer firearms within the act. Prior to that exemption they were ‘low power air weapons’ which are within the definition of a firearm A key technicality is “for the purposes of this act” Therefore take legal advice on what definition of a firearm applies to your restrictions to ensure that your airsoft BB guns were & are not an issue Sometimes a definition is carried across legislation and sometimes it refers to ‘as defined in’. If not specified then it’s subject to interpretation

The primary purpose of the buttons is to make it do things that change the end results slightly, some models allow you to reprogramme what certain buttons do to suit your needs. When you’ve had a camera set up with a few personal preset mode configurations The secondary purpose of the buttons is that you can pick it up after a couple of years and wonder what the hell is going on as you can’t remember which is which out of ‘preset mode 1/2/3’ @son of dan an extension to @Herrghrecommending her teaching you something about her camera is to go out for a general photo day. If you have a camera or she has two, then even have a go at each taking a photo of the same thing then comparing results Presumably she will get the artistic element in quickly, and can guide you to how your photo could have compared to hers - or the contrast of your interpretation You can set themes for the day, or sign up to GuruShots and pick a challenge or two then try for some pictures to fit the brief https://apps.apple.com/gb/app/gurushots-photography/id1111221823

It never happened Quite obvious if engaging common sense thought for a moment about wandering around in a Northern Ireland public place, masked with a gun like object Particularly in the identified location of Derry/Londonderry Irrespective of the general public taking no notice in the photo and the police making no trace via CCTV after social media circulation was reported etc any real incident would have promptly come to the attention of the police as it occurred - probably after the balaclavas had become aware Despite articles subsequently mentioning AI generation this will be somebodies airsoft cosplay photo edited into a generic public photo

Something to give an example This will just be for some indoor & partially outdoor urban play this weekend and the footage just for posterity The camera is a generic SJ4000, upside down mounted on a rail mount. (It is set for upside down recording, so unless it resets itself the resulting footage will be the right way up) It’s mounted a long way forward. Which means it will be out of my hands way when gripping - but it can look like an odd position and won’t capture the barrel for ‘gun cam context’ @son of danSomething that none of us have mentioned is ‘tethers’. You should not rely on mounts, something will go wrong - especially when mounted in places out of your line of sight such as head mounts. Best practice is to use a mount plus secure a tether wire so that if something fails it hangs off rather than falling in a bush Ignore that I’m not practicing what I preach Another thing to consider is the lights. I’ll be in some dark underground areas so will be trying to remember to put some black electrical tape over the LEDs. The back screen is an option to black out - the disadvantage is switching off when thinking that you’re switching on. It does have a WiFi mode so its possible to check on a phone Also in use this weekend is a light Lights should of course be off for the majority of the time, not waving around giving away our positions - it’s for searching corners of dark rooms for props & goodies I was considering positioning the touch switch on the grip, and using a chopped up bicycle inner tube over the grip to hold it But instead I have gone for the elastic band that came with the inner tube and mounted on the side of the rail Tape is coming in case of emergency This allows for thumb contact to switch on Try to ignore the barrel. Those with a keen eye may notice the calibre

Curious …….. I’m on the same device (iPhone) and the first image has now disappeared as below: It may be an issue with the hosting rather than the way you have embedded it, as originally I saw both perfectly well ……. In theory, copying a link from your photostream could be the issue - but it’s not due to that being personal to you as I could see the image

Those two work I’m in two minds about embedding or linking Links are a good habit to support a forum Back in the day I hosted team signature block images, which had the ‘benefit’ of managing consistency, and allowed for event promotion (subject to advertising rules) both for our own events and also when playing a role in another teams/organisers event My moderator head says to link from a hosting site, this of course saves resources and costs for the site owners - and that’s how I used to do things - across a few hosting sites to keep it free and also as part of my organising. Over time those sites have gone onto different pricing, so I went through a review ensuring I didn’t lose anything that I hadn’t archived, and fixed a few shares to maintain, but a number of forums now have dead links Embeds ‘fix’ my problem of organising links, but contributes to forum costs. I aim to scale appropriately, and some of my older pictures are ‘banked’ to give me some flexibility to scale down and retrieve capacity in the future - or I could decide that protecting the ‘integrity’ of a thread in the future can be served by lesser quality as opposed to a good balance between quality & size for a current thread

I do like a tree photo Not both?

Start with a basic action camera, then learn what works for you. GoPro carries the name, and does have the right features and specs which come with the price to go with them Alternative action cameras are up to the job - all in recent years exceed the ‘quality’ of anything you would be showing them at - YouTube etc Old YouTube footage from 15 to 10 years ago which looks like it was filmed with a potato gets highlighted with much nostalgia value and You are dependant on the sensor and chip set. If you’re going in and out of buildings then the ‘better’ cameras will cope better with the change in light conditions - but anything current should cope in a reasonable time frame Most important is what you want to do with footage. Are you making a full film of all your awesome actions, telling the story of your day? Are you making a click bait kill cam video? Are you making training feedback footage to review what happened? Or do you just want to film some stuff and see what you get? The ‘best’ footage is of multiple angles - but means lots more editing. eg barrel cam - which mostly shows the ground and air, but gives shooting footage Reverse barrel cam - films you Sight cam - which gives zoomed in ground and air Head cam - which shows where you were looking, but can make people sick when you keep looking left, right etc, and will also show the tree or brick wall that you were hiding behind Body cam - similar to head cam without the left/right twitching but more bouncy (check the stablisation specs) Back cam - Strap a pole to your vest and mount a camera that films a 3rd person view Combine a few of those and you can edit a story - for the extra cost of multiple cameras and mounts plus edit time Alternatively forget all of those, get a generic action camera with case and an assortment of mounts. Try it in different positions and see what you get Note that a scope camera is ‘better’ when accompanied by another camera giving a wider view

You are wise In case of future justification, Keep it in your back pocket that airsoft is a safe fun activity that bears little relation to real life despite the stitch counters But the wise man knows when to and when not to take ladies to gun related activities

Sometimes ignorance is bliss Even following instinct on a no go can result in issues We were entertained by a team mates stalker issues - until I declined a no go and ended up with my own stalker

‘Low’ is of course relative A few pounds and under a centimeter go with our Mk1 but are a lot of pressure for the mk2 A (very) careful player can notice and step back from low pressure, and that of course is also a successful device - once players know that there are trip wires around they slow down and avoid obvious routes 👍

I’ll comment on fishing line as a trip line. There are of course many factors to consider with a trip line, we haven’t liked fishing line. It has some stretch to it (Which is a good and a bad thing depending on placement and intent) If you are giving careful people a small chance to notice that they have caught a trip wire then the stretch and tension gives them that moment. It also depends on the force required. Physical devices such as these have the plunger spring tension against the safety pin, and that gives some friction against the sideways pull of the pin. You therefore need a ‘strong’ enough line to pull against the friction Add this friction with some stretch and that is the chance you are giving the player to detect - if they are running then it’s too late, if carefully walking then they have a chance. If opening a door they may or may not detect ‘tension’ We primarily go for pyro based systems, and have devices with electric trigger systems which means we don’t need the physical force of an impact for a blanks percussion cap, therefore less need for a ‘strong’ line I don’t like to discuss specifics on our device designs (and I also work with those of an Army engineers background including some of EOD experience which also influences how much I’d publicly say about our designs!) For trip devices we’ve had two core designs. Mk1 had some ‘physics’ and needed a level of tension to pull it. Similarly to blank devices a fishing line or cord would be needed but would have a level a stretch before ‘popping’. Wire doesn’t stretch, but can be too obvious when strong enough. Mk2 designs are very sensitive, only needing a light touch which would enable something more fine, or any ‘stretch’ in the line would trigger

I keep having thoughts that it’s a pressure mine, which would reflect you not having something to lock it as primed, but that would only work if the pin / blank can be impacted properly when stood on etc So I think that you are right that mystery object which needs to be recognised to establish if something is missing or the priming method needs to be identified Dynatex have made many products based on the same principles, some of which have a sleeve / enclosure as a grenade - but I would have still expected somewhere for a safety pin

Going in blind, I’m assuming that it’s a blank firer which sets off by a striker pin on the the plunger But devices can be many things, blanks, crow scarers, 12gram co2 cartridges etc the holes look like the safety side vent of a blank firer. More information is needed

Can you give more pictures in other angles? Are there signs of equivalent parts being missing or that the design does not appear to account for such parts ?

(I believe) that the overseas registered VAT is to be accounted for & paid to HMRC on a quarterly basis, so would be held for a period Package declarations should cover all of that, and presumably with the companies HMRC reference - with past experience I wouldn’t be surprised if someone from overseas sent packages with declarations but didn’t have any arrangement When parcels pass through its then a question of whether there is any tracking of what is declared on the package vs quarterly accounts On the matter of what is actually charged and what is subsequently declared, that again depends on ‘proper’ accounting. Unless it’s a VAT invoice the specifics aren’t there. Legally that’s irrelevant as VAT applies or doesn’t, but if for example a European seller lists inclusive of local VAT but sold as export then they could still charge €120 but keep the €120 from an overseas sale, but with a local sale kept €100 and paid their tax man €20 If declared as UK vat paid then they would be paying the €20 In £ to HMRC …………. Ive just had a recent European import of some custom work - I dealt with the European office, but my invoice came from a different UK company (the guy is their ‘UK rep’) so I paid UK VAT The European company sent it to him, and he forwarded it to me I never saw the package which went through customs, so either multiple items came and split out or he took it out of one package and then sent on to me UK customs therefore will have seen a business to business package and HMRC got their cut on the UK to UK sale

China subsidises export postage for low value high volume businesses