Tommikka

I’ve made and used many maps for sites, which makes particular sense when I’ve designed and run events on sites but I have printed and even made my own maps of sites that I’ve just played at I’ve been especially fond of overlaying a sites feature/zone sketch map onto aerial maps giving context. I prefer event days/weekends where the entire site is in play rather than a standard day where you play a single zone at a time walking to it as a group. But it’s still handy to have some context I come from the Orkney islands famed for their Viking history and explorers. But my family tree traces back to a shipwrecked sailor, and the only exploring genes I have come from those who have discovered new lands by getting lost. I am also the man who lost his stack of poles, rope and coloured material when constructing objective flag poles. I had placed them on a convenient ridge roughly in the centre of each of the objectives that I was building flag poles. This meant wandering in decreasing circles to find the stash of supplies to build the next objective flag pole it is very useful to have a pocket guide to give me a clue that if I walk through a cowboy town instead of a missile base that I’m walking away from the safe zone instead of towards it

For target shooting at home you don’t need any of the VCRA defences - a brightly coloured IF will shoot as well as if it were a RIF. Bright IFs can be anything from a cheap BB shooter to a bells & whistles airsoft gun with a paint job

The best way to find out about the gear is to play, check out what others are using …… and take part in the players favorite part of the hobby - showing off and talking about their gear Everyone has a preference so getting the three games in gives you a few chances to chat and get a feel before you get to make a ‘sensible’ opinion on what’s good for you as opposed to day zero or day one shiney things Pistols are fun, but for most of the time they are weight carried in a holster and the rest of the time are dual wield joy whilst you get eliminated 10 to 1 for the one pub war story

Check the inner, outer and cross section dimensions and consider the material. Some uses need a specific material for the right performance, but general air line use can usually be done with basic rubbers. If the right size or close enough tolerance then a few cheap o-rings will do A selection set will give you more o-rings for your money, but if you have no use for the assorted sizes then they are just as much of a waste https://www.allorings.com/British-o-ring-Size-Chart https://www.aceseal.com/o-ring-materials#:~:text=O-rings are mechanical gaskets,Rubber and Fluorocarbon (Viton).

Look out for offers on local Facebook groups and/or ask local independent retailers about the boxes their deliveries come in Their commercial waste disposal costs them money, and they will have limited stock room space to hang on to boxes & other packaging Locally my friend is always listing free boxes, and ideally with quick collection. (She’ll offer ‘same day/tommorow’ collection of good quality boxes before breaking them down (so anyone who wants boxes for removals or storage needs to get them quick) but for packaging they will still be just as good, as you would be reshaping a big square box into a long rectangular box. Even better that would make you popular with the shops is the extra packaging, such as foam wotsits, bubble wrap and especially their suppliers shredded cardboard recycled into packaging. Then add an abundance of tape, a bin bag black plastic wrap and stick on your label

Am I right in thinking that you need a line with ‘standard’ female to male, as per a typical fill nipple? If so then rather than the classic remote air line with a bottle regulator mount, you can use a “remote fill line” / “fill whip” (From reputable suppliers) they are designed to run 4500psi as an extension from a fill station into the cylinders fill nipple. Cheaper / lower rated ones may exist which would suit a 200psi etc - but personally I’d say to still go for a fully rated one E.g. https://www.bzpaintball.co.uk/valken-v-tactical-fill-whip-hose Check the length for your needs, these tend to be straight lines rather than coiled, and don’t come with an on/off valve as when used for fills the bottles fill nipple valve does the job

I have that RAP4 in DPM …..:. All you need is a spray can https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/196531661331?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=4wg8Ejj_QSW&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=4wg8Ejj_QSW&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Not only the ‘law of sod’ But a forward facing peak will also increase the number of hits that make their way towards your google area - and the law of sod guarantees that those ones will direct towards gaps The peak adds a one sided corridor that deflects near misses into face hits

I suspect that admins should know about this post …..

£1400 for a job lot of ‘things’? I have ‘things’ to meet many wallet sizes, let me know your budgets and I’ll help anyone out with ‘things’ to fit their personal budgets I can do ‘things’ in job lots or on an individual ‘things’ as required

Their checkout page gives you the answer: Duties and Taxes All product prices are exclusive of customs duties and taxes.

Any item sent across international boundaries requires a customs declaration - so the sender must make a declaration When it arrives at the border that existing declaration might suffice, but the recipient is the responsible party on any imported goods. Its most likely that the recipient will be required to complete a declaration - even if it is just verifying the senders declaration Two key areas are covered: 1). Is the import allowed? This covers whether the item is illegal / legal and also whether there are any qualifying requirements of the recipient (eg is it a U.K. legal RIF and does the recipient have a VCRA Defence ?) 2) Is there a tax/duty/fee to be paid for ? Sometimes the sender handles payment of tax/duty/fees and supply paperwork with the declaration (You ought to already know this service is being provided at the point of sale - if not then the default is that you are liable as the importer Sometimes a ‘handling agent’ acts as middle man I had that last year with some custom gear, it was designed and manufactured overseas, sent to their U.K. rep, and I was contacted by him with the bill (Rather than being a true agent on import, it was more of him acting as a U.K. retailer selling my custom gear to me after I had dealt with the overseas design house) Provide your UKARA details in the notes, plus in your delivery address and assume that you will need to fill in a declaration confirming the import plus a bill for 20% UK VAT and handling fees

I assume you were wearing rental goggles? These are much more likely to fog up because they have been worn funny hundreds of people before (unless in the post covid era you were lucky enough to be at a site that has opted to use fresh goggles per rental player) Any manufacturer anti-fog coating on a lens is degraded as soon as any form of product (other than minimal water) is used to clean a lens. Rental / old lenses will gradually lose some of their anti fog capabilities over time, and as the lens gets cleaned. There are after market anti fog products such as cat crap which help, but they should be avoided on new lenses as long as possible to make the best of the manufacturers coating - but that doesn’t work for everyone and an individual may need anti fog help from the beginning More important than the manufacturers antifog or after market anti fog is air flow which minimises the work for the anti fog coating i4s are seen as the recommended goggle, but other premium goggles are available. Dyes tend to be smaller goggles, which is attractive to airsofters, and also due to the smaller goggle there is more airflow from the lack of goggle surface area. A key benefit shared with other premium goggles is the rubber material, so if the chin would get in the way of you aiming you can lean in and it bends away from your guns stock etc Everything is personal though, and the ideal is to try on a few options of different full face goggles to fit your personal head size and shape, part face goggles accompanied by a mesh guard etc, or minimising down to glasses and a scarf etc (Remembering that scarves give zero air flow, so may be making a fresh problem) If you can then visit an airsoft or paintball retailer (noting that most stock supplies for both) and try on goggles

You sir, are a scholar and a gentleman https://youtu.be/3LkGRxjWQ_c?si=MvpdhQwV0nyFGLpz

correct Correct The cylinder pressure of 3000psi is your high end Its fitted output regulator is probably running somewhere between 800psi and 650psi (when moving from CO2 to HPA in paintball 800-850psi roughly replicated the gaseous state of CO2, but as time has moved on the need has dropped for most - we tend to have an inline regulator fitted within our paintball guns Your inline airsoft regulator then does the reduction to the low 100s for your operating pressure, which could be called low pressure Strictly though it’s all high pressure air, and should be given respect all the way through the system but 500/400 psi might get called mid pressure

** has a quick nostalgia moment about when I used to have moderator privileges on a couple of forums and could see full edit histories ….. including deleted posts You are embarrassed that you were on a paintball site weren’t you ?!?!???

They have made half of the argument for you, but they may also be right that joule creep on their DMR & auto limits are negligible in comparison to their The argument is not to ‘test in joules’, but to test at the appropriate weight. They may have already tested alternative weights and found that heavier BBs in ‘most general’ airsoft guns is negligible enough that the resultant joules are higher but within their acceptable limits. Theres half an argument that a sniper player could put more effort into precisely fine tuning their RIF, though other players could be fine tuning ‘normal’ RIFs. An argument remains that a sniper barrel would be longer which enables more acceleration along the barrel and could max out the imparted energy, in a ‘decent straight’ / ‘less friction’ barrel which then benefits from joule creep in gaining energy but not losing as much drag. Making it more of an unknown, so they are less content with the ease of allowing some creep flexibility on the basis that it could be more than negligible Real life testing is required to prove / disprove Full auto aeg limit 350 fps .2g bb = 1.138j 374 fps .2g = 1.299j DMR limit 450 fps .2g bb = 1.88j 499.9 fps .2g = 2.32j If a 350fps .2 then fired a .43 without losing velocity then 350 fps .43 = 2.4468j But the unknown factor of joule creep is that the energy imparted in the chamber isn’t directly compensated with a slower velocity directly in line with the greater mass I’m reading it that they chrono test most on 0.2 as a standard, but then for snipers adjust the chrono weight setting to test with the actual playing weight This adds time to test every player at whichever weight (assuming the player knows and is honest)

….. Just get into vintage 1:1 model making

Joy

Importing is such fun Cost wise take into account the full purchase cost plus postage, and allow for variable currency exchange rates depending on whether or not they charge an international £ price or your bank/card issuer converts - and the timing that they use to charge the conversion Those are the easy bits If you are very lucky the overseas retailer will be registered for UK VAT to cover UK sales over £135 and they annotate declarations appropriately - therefore customs treat it as if you bought in the UK But this costs them money and probably isn’t worth the effort. So add on 20%, but not necessarily to the declared sale + postage total converted at ‘todays’ rates on arrival. Packages may get reassessed to a UK equivalent price and VAT charged on that You shouldn’t get actual customs charges - but check the gov.uk website for the latest on item categories As the border handling carrier will be dealing with the assessment they will add their carrier handling fee. This could be a fixed price across a range of amounts depending on carrier, or it could be a percentage charge against the assessed value Add all those together, plus time and worry whilst watching tracking status and you will most likely be in the ballpark of a UK retail price (or more) ……… If what you want is not listed in the UK then start by calling some retailers and they may import on your behalf via their suppliers, commercial importing also comes at a cost but handled at a greater scale and they would be paying trade prices. A special import on your behalf may cost more than an equivalent UK retail item, but it comes with more peace of mind plus their risk. This also supports UK retail and gives you a point of contact for any issues ……. If you’re looking to save on UK retail then you often don’t really save anything or a much smaller amount saved than expected …….. Sometimes though it’s a matter of getting that special thing that isn’t available in the UK, or to be first to get it - but sometimes trying to be first ends up being last when it’s sat in a depot awaiting document clearance (Last year I spent $295 plus almost £60 in charges(£45.73 import VAT, £12 handling) with 3 weeks in transit / handling …. And picked it up at the depot on the way to the event I wanted to use it at, only just beating it being released for delivery.) * I used it twice last year and will be using it twice this year - £300 plus some worry so that I could ‘be that guy’ with the unique niche product There is also another elephant in the room - will it arrive to UK spec, and will it get identified as over powered at customs ? * little correction that I just remembered. I didn’t ‘beat’ the release for delivery, I was watching the tracking status wondering if it would clear in time for onward delivery - which it didn’t, and was in fairly regular contact with the help desk including clarifying if it would stay in situ once the final charge was calculated or get forwarded to my local sorting office. It was cleared on the evening before / morning of the day that I was leaving and a minor diversion on my route so I managed to pay and collect in person at Basingstoke on my way from Salisbury to London

What he said. Zero in your sights at the range that you expect to shoot. Then practice shooting targets that are nearer and further away so that you know how to adjust aim Alternatively practice shooting at a few ranges. See what appears to be a ‘long’ distance at which you can consistently hit within a fair but wide grouping (eg half the size of a human beings chest) and consider that to be the furthest that you would use your sights. Next pick out a closer distance at which you would look into the sights (not so close that you can just point and shoot) Pick a middling distance (not exactly the centre of both of those ranges - you are going to attempt to set your zero at the mid point of the sight between your short and long distances. To pick what that middle distance is shoot at your long distance and your short distance. Read the sight markings to check how many dots/dashes there are between them. Adjust the sights so that they are either the most apart on your sight, or preferably not quite the most apart (which allows you some more visual adjustment when in game) Then aim for the centre marking of the sight and position yourself / your target going a little closer / further away until you get your optimum grouping on that centre mark. That is then your zeroing distance and you have worked out how you expect that you should adjust aim for different distances

Fenton! AKA, potential Boston Dynamics robo dog spotted in Ukraine … and the original source … https://x.com/astraiaintel/status/1819985311855763600

“All in” means postage and fees are included Its laziness on the sellers side to ask buyers to work out what to pay, plus it can mean that the seller receives less than expected when a buyer adds on the PayPal percentage without realising that the rate has to be reverse engineered from the total including fees If a buyer pays the asking price of £210 you would receive £203.61 If you want to receive £210 then ask for £216.58 Alternatively round the asking price up or down https://www.clothnappytree.com/ppcalculator/

….: and some of mine In the order of dead, nearly dead and their baby Dead had a final of 2019/09 Nearly dead has a final of 2025/01 but is out of test so I’ve sacrificed it as not worth testing for the number of games planned Their new baby awaits a new regulator (I was half considering a regulator transplantation but have opted for brand new giving me the benefit of fresh lightweight, customisable output, and peace of mind that burst disks won’t be giving up the goat)

That does look similar-ish to a 5/8” DIN fitting, but DIN fill rigs don’t have that nipple. A word with your supplier is the best option