TheGrover

Two words: Forrest Gump And on a serious note, American Sniper is a cracking film, especially when you realise it's a true story and the photo of Kyle's casket covered in badges (forgive me if the SEALs call it something else) is real

So that's the general consensus then? Just go as heavy as your hop can lift? If that's the case, my g5 flat hopped might be better with .40s All guns except my pistol lift 30s with very little hop turned on. The pistol won't lift them but I use them anyway because I can't be bothered keeping two different weight bbs in two speedloaders

I clean my barrels after every skirmish. Have you ever seen the crap that comes out of the barrel after about 400 rounds (all I'll use in a day) using propane? It's disgusting after a day, I darent think how bad it would be after two.

I've been having a go with .30s, still need a bit longer to decide properly, but so far I'm impressed with the consistency, I'm even considering shelling out for a magnified sight come payday

they seem the same size as standard STANAG mags, though i use the open-top bungee closure pouches and simply thread a second pouch onto the front of the first. i do however own an army surplus ammo grab bag, which has three double mag pouches on the front, each of which comfortably holds two G5 mags the biggest issue i find, which is particularly noticable in the snug bungee closure pouches, is that the knocker sits proud of the back of the mag, and can easily get snagged on the top of the pouch as you put it in the pouch. that said, after a few skirmished practicing, i dont have any issue with it any more, and i havent accidentally pressed the knocker whilst loading the very stiff mags giving myself a freeze burn for a while...

one of my mags has a misbehaving outlet valve, i cant seem to get it to seal for more than a couple of skirmishes before i need to give it some love. maybe one day ill get to the bottom of it

aye, NEVER fire the gun with the stock folded. folding the stock is only to make it easier to store and easier to carry inside vehicles. if you feel you might get the temptation in some CQC, fit the stock tube adaptor that comes with the gun, buy an AEG buffer tube (theres a ghk one specifically for the G5 which will cost you about £20) and put a cheapo stock on there. theres another thread just above this one LINK where someone who just bought a g5 asked about maintenance, ive put a couple of posts in there detailing my daily maintenance i carry out after every skrimish and if you read down it also covers the best way to fix a mag leaking gas

if you remove the base plate, you can unscrew the metal caps that seal the bottom of the gas well. no need to fully break the mags down. Ive also eard that its best when getting your mags to open them straight away and tighten those caps, as they always seem to come a little loose. I have tightened mine and not had any issues yet but it certainly held gas when the caps could be easily turned by hand

the abbey gasses (Maintenance gas included) use UPL instead of silicone, which is better for storage as it stays dissolved in the gas preventing the gas from drying out and drawing the lubricant from your seals. adding silicone certainly helps by delaying the problem, but if you end up leaving your mags for more than a couple of weeks, maintenance gas might well save you having to break them down and fix your seals again. by the way, to add to my original list: Learn to break down the mags and fix your seals. its not usually a hard process, the G5 can be done by: -Empty the mags of gas -check the mag is empty of gas -triple check the mag has no gas in it -unscrew both inlet and knocker valves, drop them in silicone and leave them overnight -remove the magazine baseplate -find the bastard follower spring that flew off and the little nub that holds it straight -unscrew the two metal caps with a massive allen key -remove the o-rings from each cap and submerse them in the silicone, or just drop the whole thing in. -re-assemble and add gas immediately

i just finished my g5 after my skirmish. DAILY MAINTENANCE (after every skirmish) -empty magazines of gas -field strip -clean bolt track and rail of all silicone oil -clean barrel thoroughly -apply silicone oil to bolt carrier track -re-assemble -fill magazines with just a little bit of Abbey Maintenance gas -use one mag to put a couple of dry fires through and spread a little lubricant through the internals if using propane, the cleaning steps are more important due to the impurities found in usual stove propane, and the last two steps are also much more important. if youre using an Abbey product as propellant, you probably dont need to empty them to fill with maintenance gas, just add a little maintenance stuff in with the other stuff. once or twice a year, give the rifle a full strip, check things like the hop bucking, trigger and bolt movement for signs of wear or damage and replace parts as necessary (you can get just about any part from Milspec Solutions or Socom Tactical). if you notice that your FPS has dropped since you bought it, remove the bolt carrier and disassemble it to get the nozzle out. give the two o-ring seals a good lubing (best to leave them submersed in silicone oil overnight) and reinstall them. while youre at it, use your finger to spread some silicone oil all round the cylinder the nozzle sits in. once youve put everything back together you should find its about 50fps hotter than brand new, but this falls back to normal once you put a few mags through it, so do some garden plinking or something until the FPS comes back into site limits.

i use a blackhawk serpa for my 228, it was fantastic on my chest with the MOLLE plate bit ive moved it onto my Osprey battle belt so i can easily lose the plate carrier if i want to run light.

That's the point, the polymer case does touch the internals. So they share heat. I haven't used an m4 mag so I don't know how much difference it'll make, but I thought it would be noticeable

They won't be as good as the g5 mags in the cold as polymer has a much greater thermal mass, ie holds more heat energy at room temperature to bleed back into your gas well after it's cooled down Plus a metal mag in a g5 would look crap. Join the p-mag revolution!

1) I both own and use a g5. Its bloody good fun and a cracking little rifle. It's not the most accurate in the world, but it's not bad by a long shot 2) its loosely based on a cz scorpion evo 3. It's a great starter rifle owing to its gas efficiency and how easy it is to field strip and maintain 3) it works amazing in cold weather. Ignore the redwolf propaganda video (its not the least bit scientifically accurate). Mine was going strong when it was hovering just above freezing and my WE pistol gave up the ghost. The fps did suffer a little, and using it in cold conditions will strain the nozzle assembly and lower receiver. Some people have had issues with their lower receiver cracking, but this is usually due in part to user-mods like converting to hpa or plating with the power. 4) You might find some mags that work, I think the GHK m4 mags work, but I've heard of issues using the g5 mags in other guns. I definitely recommend sticking with the g5 mags, they're really reliable, easy to look after and great in the cold due to their high thermal mass 5) I've seen someone with a 416 collapsible stock, but I'm not sure about mp5 stocks. The adaptor takes an AEG style buffer tube. 6) it has a rear sling point for a one point sling (look at the rear left side of the top rail). It's plastic but pretty tough, and mine isn't showing any signs of wear after a few months rough treatment. If you are joining us on the dark side the g5 is a great way to start. Just be ready to give it a good ten minutes Sat down with some tissue a d silicone oil after every game, and look after the internals, particularly within the bolt assembly

Just to add to the mix. Heavyweight ammo won't stop your bbs flying off in a gust. No ammo will. We're shooting these incredibly light bits of plastic at each other so they don't do any damage. Anything that light is at the mercy of aerodynamics and wind, which is why hop-ups are so good, you don't need crazy rotation to generate lift

Is this your first gun? Have you had time to play and figure your own play style? If you're still new to airsoft I'd really reccomend getting an AEG before trying sniping. Sniping is hard and requires a certain... Sense of humour. as the slightest gust will throw your shots miles off target and those that do hit centre mass might not even be felt or heard. If you're an airsoft veteran and trying it out then that's fair enough, but I don't have a clue which sniper would be the best, just that the words on the vine say you'll probably need to faff about upgrading it first before it's good enough to skirmish. For a similar price though, you can check for some second hand ones on here that already have upgraded parts

Before you replace any magazine parts, split the parts and leave any valves or o-rings in a bottle of silicone oil overnight, then 're assemble and see if it holds gas, that has always worked with my magazine woes I don't know how to disassemble your mags, but they aren't usually difficult things, my kjw 226 mags were fiddly but not difficult

Yea, that was my understanding. In a gbbr however it works like a dream if you're prepared to look after your bolt carrier assembly and keep the fps up

Seconded, a good hop will work well enough without having to faff with a g/r/z hop. I don't think a flat hop is much faff, I bet you can even buy a ready-made bucking to save you having to sand the mound off. I was lucky in that the Orga Magnus barrel in my g5 has a seperate cutting on the outside so you can flat hop it without modifying the bucking, a piece of cake to fit, but probably not suitable for an AEG due to the loss of power and the need for lots of air in the cylinder

You kinda answered your own question when you said it's range is pretty good anyway. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. If you want the faff then go for it, hop up parts aren't that expensive, if you're just buying a good bucking and nub (ie flat hopping for example) you won't spend more than 20 quid, it cost me that much for a prommy purple bucking and maple leaf (nearly) flat nub for my g5

From what I read. A g hop uses a chopped up hop bucking and an r hop uses a bespoke patch. I personally don't know if they're worth the Faffing around, just that they do involve some Faffing about and people speak very highly of the results.

I'm not a fan of mesh, I wear some ESS cross series eyeshields and a mesh lower face mask. Your best bet with a mask is to attach it by the goggle tabs on a FAST helmet or something like that, really comfortable and doesn't get in the way of you talking, and as a bonus it's easy to remove for a minute to get a drink

Nah, it just flows round the bbs because they're so well polished. If you bought cheap nasty bbs maybe...

The tactical sock: similar to what's described above. Just take the screw top of a bottle, and use a zip tie to hold a sock to it. No rattling and more syorer bbs than a gbbr user can go through in a month I also ran into the problem of getting bbs stuck in my penis, so naturally, a tiny cocktail umbrella is the best tool for getting them back out again

First. I doubt you'll find a choked barrel, I've never seen or heard of them Second, do you REALLY need the new barrel? If you're new to the sport, your own skill at hitting things accurately is probably as poor as the rest of us when we started, and your marksmanship just needs a bit of improvement Having said that, most airsofters just like to tinker, myself included, so what kind of budget are you on? Finally, don't go expecting to make any airsoft gun shoot like a laser. It's a toy gun at the end of the day and with the best will in the world, you aren't going to be hitting people much past 50 metres unless you're putting plenty of bbs down range in the hope of one finding a target