TheGrover

Nothing wrong with a £10 pair of B&Q joiners gloves, fingerless for dexterity and tougher than the nails that the chippie uses

Any torch with 200 lumens is ok, 250 is pretty bright, and 300 plus is for the ludicrous or for signalling to spacecraft on orbit. I have a little 5.11 pocket torch with about 200 lumens which I use with my sidearm or when I've dropped something in the dark, and a knock off sure fire clone which seems around 250 lumens and I think it's just right

Op: yes, it's an offence under the firearms act to carry an imitation firearm in a public place. Full stop. It doesn't matter how old you are. If you're using public transport I'd use a locked case that wouldn't appear at first glance to be a gun. And as long as you aren't wearing camo, people will probably think it's a guitar or some other instrument.

Good ol` Colemans. I use an Airsoft Innovation oil pump kit to add silicone to the bottle so I don't need to faff about

There's nothing wrong with Google sketchup, it can be a pain to get your model exported but it's the easiest cad program to pick up and use as a beginner

Milspec solutions is worth a go

Maybe a crazy overvolumed aeg would do it. But I mean that a gas gun overvolumes in a whole different league, an AEG will never be able to over volume as much as a gas gun because of the high pressure of the green gas.

I guess the effect is only noticeable when the over voluming is beyond what an aeg can produce, since it relies on having the same propellant force throughout the entire travel down the barrel, so I guess that that means all gas guns (perhaps not CO2 ones if the valve closes well before the bb leaves the barrel) and I guess most hpa guns as well.

There are two ways to figure out how joule creep affects muzzle energy. You are right. It is technically possible to do it with some calculations and a detailed understanding of hydraulics, gas physics and mechanics, but I don't have that understanding. The other way is to get a load of guns and a load of ammo and test Them, and since I can't afford dozens of guns, I thought the people here could lend a hand. Kind of reminds me of the Aperture Science way of doing things: don't botger with the Complex maths and research, just get your hands dirty and figure it out like a real man

eye pro rated for 1j is almost enough, since a 0.2g 350fps shot has an energy of about 1.13j. A sniper shot at 0.2g and 500fps has over 2.2j of energy. Bear in mind that the British Standard (EN 166 F) only guarantees protection up to 0.86j. Taking a hit from a sniper you're gonna want to be pretty Danny sure that his gun isn't running hot. And sure, someone can cheat their way into getting a hot gun on site, but it's the people who do it accidentally and unknowingly who this public Experiment is aimed at benefiting

Losing an eye is not a physics problem And I want the data to figure out just how much difference joule creep can make to muzzle energy, and see just how likely it is that guns can be made to shoot hot by changing ammo, and if the effect is very consistent or if properties of the gun (bore, length, type of barrel for example) make joule creep more or less significant

Don't you see, impulse and energy go hand in hand. They are indirectly proportional, so increasing the impulse (aka momentum) of a projectile by 10% increases its energy by 5% (the energy increase will always be half the scale of the momentum increase, as the former is derived from its velocity squared and the latter is derived from the velocity)

it's relevant if a Marshall insists you chrono on 0.20s and then you load up the heavier ammo, you have changed the muzzle energy of the gun and increased it, so if that gun chronoed on or just below the site limit, heavy ammo will make the gun shoot hot based on its muzzle energy. That difference could be 20% or more if you doubled the weight of the ammo, I need the data to test that theory, which could mean that a gun that a marshal thought was safe was actually capable of penetrating someone's eye pro and doing some serious damage

Because the heavier bb will travel faster than their predicted FPS, and carry more energy. based on my own experiments, the difference is enough to make some gas guns shoot hot on heavy ammo, and within site limits on light ammo. Based on the idea that a site limit is in force to prevent guns being used that have muzzle energies powerful enough to break eye pro, since its the energy of a projectile, and it's momentum that determine if it will break through eye pro, not simply it's speed

Okay I'm gonna try to explain it as best I can. Due to Newtons laws, a more massive object (ie heavier ammo) accelerates more slowly than a less massive one when the same amount of force is exerted upon it. The gas doesn't care how heavy the bb is. So it always applies about the same force on the bb wherever it is within the barrel. Since the heavier ammo accelerates slower, it must spend more time in the barrel being accelerated by the same amount of force compared to lighter ammo. This increased time results in a greater impulse (force multiplied by time) being imparted upon the ammo, which results in the projectile having more momentum, and more kinetic Energy. The heavier ammo should always end up slower than the lighter ammo, because it accelerates slower, but the joule creep effect means it will not be as slow as the table would indicate. My idea (which seems to have stalled) was to get some data together and determine how much difference the effect makes, and to try to figure out if the length or bore of the barrel affects it. Edit: you're right, you can't cheat physics, but it's the relationship between the laws of physics which make things look as though they are I did Physics at A level, and problems like these interested me for a while

There is no cheating, try it yourself, load a gas gun mag with a few bbs of heavy and light weight, you'll find that the heavier ammo has noticeably higher energy and lower velocity, since the bb is accelerated slower and spends more time with a torrent of high pressure gas pressing it along.

It's showing the energy of a bb fired at each velocity, so you can compare the different bbs, and figure out how a site limit translates when you're not using 0.20s. Joule creep however is a phenomenon caused by using heavier ammo whereby the muzzle energy of a gun is greater than you would expect based on this table. My theory is that the mugger mass of the ammo means that it spends more time in the barrel as it accelerates slower, this results in a greater impulse being imparted by the propellant due to the way that a gas gun lets far more gas into the barrel than would fill it at normal pressure. As a result, you could chrono a gun on 0.20s and be right on the limit, then be stopped later in the game for a random chrono test using your heavier ammo and find that you're actually over the limit. Personally, I think this is a big issue when it comes to things like gas snipers and DMRs, where you're talking about high energies alreads, and adding another 10% accidentally might just give the heavier bbs enough energy to go through someone's eye pro, bearing in mind that most eye pro is only technically rated for a 0.20g bb travelling at less than 350 fps. I believe that marshalls should chrono guns on whatever ammo the user will be using, so that they don't actually start shooting hot in game, since very few people seem (at least in my experience) to understand joule creep. I once had to explain it to a Marshall who thought that joule creep worked the other way than it did, and insisted I chronoed on 0.20s since they have the most energy

Actually, I don't think that table accounts for joule creep. From my own testing, going from 0.20s to 0.25s in my G5 increased the muzzle energy by around 8%, so the energy increased without altering the gun except changing the ammo.

I probably wouldn't care, but if anything, I'd be a little glad since you're more likely to feel your hits, sometimes I feel guilty that I might have missed a hit after it bounced off a mag pouch At the end of the day though, it's your gear so you can do whatever you want. And if someone doesn't like it, then they deserve to be shot... With an airsoft gun... From really close coz you snuck up on the whiney bastard whilst he was complaining about that guy not knowing the difference between multicam and MTP

well once the gun is together, the barrel shouldnt be able to move itself, and you cant apply pressure anyway (unless youre twisting the hop wheel too hard) it doesnt matter if the hop unit it twisted slightly one way, sure it will send all your shots slightly to one side, but all you need to do, is adjust your sights for windage/elevation at the start of the day (not a hard job) and then its as good as if it were shooting perfectly. if it really bothers you, you can wrap some tape around the inner barrel so that it fits snugly in the outer barrel

mine doesnt have anything fixing the inner barrel/hop assembley in, but there should be a small spring around the inner barrel that pushes the assembley back into the gearbox, effectivley holding it in place (if not, try tightening the screws in the butt-pad to make sure the gearbox can't shift back) my motor also has no trades, but its still the ICS turbo 3000

I was speaking to someone who kept airsoft guns in his uni digs, and one day when he was out, another student broke in and started shooting people out the window. After the ARU turned up, they did a runner and were never caught, but the owner lost all the guns and spent the night in a cell. Not worth it in my opinion, unless you have a way of keeping them properly locked away, like a vault or a safe

Ghk g5 mag follower set, to replace one i broke We p226 mag lips to replace one i broke ghk g5 bolt carrier blocks to replace one i (almost) broke Plus some sili oil and maintenance gas I gotta stop breaking stuff

I can hear the charity advert now: If you donate just £1 per month, you can help prevent the abuse of vulnerable SA80s. Just £1 a month can help provide a loving home and a monthly skirmish.

Or do like i told you last night and leave it parked half tensioned for a bit, keep checking it every few hours and re-tensioning the spring until you have the right fps. It saves you having to crack the gearbox and repeat the fiasco we had the other day trying to cram all those little v3 bits in there again