What parts would I need to increase range?

[iBrowniee x]

I've got a G&P enforcer m4 it's a pretty good gun. At the moment it shoots around 330fps and it can reach out to fairly long ranges but I was wondering if there was anything els that I could buy that could extend my range even more. I'm buying a new hop up system but I'm not sure if the will help.

[Guest PT247]

good quality tbb will help up your fps adding range and the good quality bit should help on accuracy, decent hop nub and bucking will aid accuracy. If still not happy, upgrade the spring but I'd not bother opening the gearbox unless it breaks.

[Guest PT247]

if you at 330 already, a good air seal from a good bucking added with the TBB will put you closer to the 350 limit most out doors sites impose

[Samurai]

I would open that gearbox and replace the gears. They will break sooner or later. Also, the piston head likes to crack too sometimes.

 

The first thing to change if you are after range - not maximum range but the range where you can hit someone - are BBs. Use the best quality and heavy BBs. For aegs 0.28 or 0.30. Use the heaviest one your gun can handle.

 

Fix the hopup unit and the barrel in place. You can put a rubber patch on the hopup unit to push it into the gearbox. This fixes most of that crappy m4 hopup's problem, except if it likes to loose the setting. If it is then change it to pro-win or a copy of that.

Then find a rubber that your barrel, nozzle, and hopup likes. There is no best one here. One can work for someone, and doesn't in an other setup. There are good ones though you can choose from. Maple leaf, madbull, modify, etc.

[TheGrover]

Lets assume that you want to extend the EFFECTIVE range of your BBs so that you can actually hit peeps further away, rather than just keep their heads down:

 

Heavier BBs are your friend, at 330 FPS, 0.28s should be doable or even 0.30s. the higher mass of the BB lets it push past more air and be less affected by the wind.

 

some love in the hop up department is definitely cost effective. parts are cheap and they pay off well. try a few different set ups, different buckings and nubs and see which works best. an easy modification is a flat hop system, which might be worth a go, im trying it next with my G5 as it has an Orga Barrel which means i dont have to modify my bucking, though any other barrel will need you to modify a bucking.

 

if you still want more results, and still have some cash, you can invest in a better barrel. there are many trains of thought here, and it doesnt really matter whether you go tightbore like the masses or widebore, as long as its a good quality barrel that you took your time to install, you will see better results. If i were to change the barrel in my AEG, i would go for a miracle barrel, as ive heard good things about them, but other barrels can be just as good.

 

and of course, simple mods like packing your barrel to prevent wobble or vibration are very cost effective as well, so you shouldnt need to crack a gearbox to see good results.

[Mr Monkey Nuts]

Move closer?

 

In all seriousness it sounds like it's working pretty well as it is, myself and many others on here have had the genius idea of tinkering with one little aspect to give that slight improvement and ended up screwing the gun up completely. It can be done, but is it really worth it?

 

Just Push up and play!

[Esoterick]

Move closer?

 

In all seriousness it sounds like it's working pretty well as it is, myself and many others on here have had the genius idea of tinkering with one little aspect to give that slight improvement and ended up screwing the gun up completely. It can be done, but is it really worth it?

 

Just Push up and play!

 

I'd have to go with this, although I am the sort of person that would pay to get most work done on my guns as I just do not enjoy the tech side of the hobby.

 

One of my mates I play with regularly has a nice G&P M4 that was shooting fine but he decided he wanted to "upgrade" it. For the last few months he has no end of problems with the thing actually feeding, to the point he has missed games.

 

You could argue that he just doesn't know what he's doing but you do have to factor in that your gun may be one of the "friday afternoon specials" as a lot of people refer to them.

[Hudson]

If it ain't broke...

 

Like others have said; it sounds like it's working fine as it is.

 

My recommendation, if funds allow; buy a cheap 2nd gun & experiment with upgrades on that.

 

You won't risk messing up your main weapon then & it'll give you experience on working on internals...

[Hudson]

Plus; it's an excuse to buy another gun!

[BrightCandle]

I am not convinced so far you can increase range per say. You can improve the groupings at distance if there is an issue with a gun, by fixing airseal (piston head, cylinder head, nozzle assuming one part of this is subpar) and then ensuring the hop unit is as consistent as possible. But actually increase the range, I think the physics of the situation are against you as its more a factor of FPS. Given a hop unit that can lift the BB and make it lift and a reasonable airseal you will get as good as you can.

 

My Tar 21 had a terrible airseal and the end result was awful accuracy. I fixed that (and the struggling stock motor) and the end result was better. Then I changed the bucking to a G&G green and that improved things again, but the hop unit/bucking couldn't lift above a 0.25g BB. So started an upgrade to the R hop, which I haven't honestly finished doing yet, its taken quite a bit of trial and error and I'll spend all of this Saturday in Billericay just messing with it rather than playing. It can lift a 0.30 and ATP says that is worth a few extra metres over 0.25g.

 

So having tried a lot of these fixes I can definitely say:

- If the airseal is rubbish then fixing it helps accuracy.

 

That is about it. I have improved range I can usefully engage by increasing accuracy but its not like I am suddenly popping heads at 40m, its not that good even after a tonne of upgrades.

[iBrowniee x]

Thanks for the input guys my gun performs fine and the internals are really good I'll just get a new bucking and nub with the new hop up system I'm getting and see what that does

[Ian_Gere]

That is about it. I have improved range I can usefully engage by increasing accuracy but its not like I am suddenly popping heads at 40m, its not that good even after a tonne of upgrades.

I wouldn't even bother with a gun that couldn't reliably perform headshots at 40m, but then my area of expertise is AK's not M4's so I can only advise you in general terms and from the reputation of stuff I've read about.

 

The thing to understand about range is that, given perfect hop up performance, it is a function of FPS, both at the muzzle and at extreme range. The heavier the BB, the better it will maintain velocity at range, so certainly use 0.25g BB's and experiment with heavier. "Perfect" hop performance would be where the backspin starts and remains exactly perpendicular to the effect of gravity on the BB. This presents a number of problems even if your hop unit is extremely good, because every time the BB touches the internal barrel during its transition, it has the potential to be deflected. If you can afford it then, a barrel with a good interior polish will produce better results than a standard barrel and very good polish even better results still, not because the good barrel adds anything, but rather because it takes less away. I have found that PDI barrels (from x-fire.org in Japan) really do work considerably better than most TBB's - whether the performance is worth the cost depends on your wallet, but if you cannot afford PDI I would suggest that chromed brass or chromed copper are better than stainless steel (and that is after experience of both compared to Systema stainless steel), so long as you clean them carefully, making sure that you do not force even the slightest speck of dirt down the barrel from the muzzle when you do so, because whilst chrome is a shinier surface than steel, it is also a coating so it can be abraded off.

 

Ideally your hop chamber will have the absolute minimum of potential wobble, so simply wrapping a few layers of PTFE tape around the hop rubber helps and once greased also improves air seal, obviously not covering the barrel window bump, so that the barrel jams into the hop chamber very tightly. Also you want the nub to fit tightly, so that there is no gap between its edges and the part of the chamber above the barrel window which holds it. Often nubs are supplied with a bit of rubber moulding still attached to one or both ends - this should be trimmed off if you are going to use a typical cylindrical nub, but I would always suggest trying an H-nub. It is likely that RATech 'hourglass' shaped hop up cushions (as they are called instead of 'nubs') are even better although I still have not got around to trying one - you can also get them from ASPUK. If either of these types proves too stiff to allow the hop to be set low enough then a Madbull Fishbone spacer is squidgier and will produce slightly better results than a standard cylinder. IMO it isn't worth faffing with the funkier nubs, flat hop etc. available for standard FPS AEG's because there is insufficient benefit available at lower power.

 

Airlab are big fans of Lonex hop chambers for M4's so I'd start there IIWY. As for what rubber/bucking to choose, the stickier it is the less you will have to put it 'on' in order to get the same amount of back spin. This is important because the more the hop is on, the more braking effect is has on the BB and less FPS means less range. Maple Leaf 60 degree rubbers are very popular and having tried them I can confirm that they are good - the main reason however is because they have ridges on the body of the tube which create a better airseal between the barrel and hop up chamber than a plain rubber and this principle is better realised in the design of Modify Hybrid barrel/rubber combinations. Of course just wrapping PTFE tape around a good quality rubber, such as a Prometheus (Soft) purple bucking will also achieve the same increased seal. Maple Leaf also make a 50 degree rubber which ought to be better still @UK ambient temperatures, although you should also bear in mind that the softer the rubber, the faster it will wear out...