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Ahoy and welcome back. 1. If you've been out for 7 years, I would have to wonder how likely it is that all 7 of you will stick with it the 2nd time round. So I'd agree with the suggestion to rent, at least for a game or two, to see if this is a renewal of your vows, or a quick booty call. Renting can look expensive, but when you consider that you'd be buying the BBs anyway, it's only actually £10-£15 for renting the gun, plus support for it, for the day. That's cheap compared to trying to sell on any RIF, or worse, an IF. 2. If you do want to buy, I agree with the list above. The cheapest M5xx M4 CYMAs have very cheap plastic bodies (although robust internals), anything above that from those brands will be fine. Baofengs UV-5Rs are decent but contain more functionality than needed. They can be programmed by hand, although it's somewhat time consuming. A £7 programming cable (eBay can provide) makes it easier, and allows downloading the same frequencies to multiple handsets. If you want to skip all that, they do a simpler range that's locked to the PMR frequencies. 3. Dunno, DPM is best P.

If you want all metal, here's a cheap alternative hi capa that I've not heard anything about ... https://www.actionhobbies.co.uk/products/ec-5-1-hi-capa-gas-blowback-airsoft-pistol-black/ Absolutely no idea if they're any good, we need someone to be a guinea pig 😄

I can see why benefit is derived from the addition of supercaps with NiMh batteries, because NiMh is inferior in current delivery, by a long way in comparison to lithium batteries. I can tell you that just as lithiums have wild variance in quality, so too do Nimh or Nicads for that matter, but you'll notice it less because they are generally lower performing. I suppose what I was suggesting before was that as useful as adding caps to NiMh batteries might be there's no reason to suppose it is as well performing as a lithium, nor that there would be anything to be gained from adding caps to lithiums. You could easily run the tests to show what happens, id be interested. -Airsoftlabs is calculating the currents, from IR values derived from experimental data with a 70% variance from a simple load model and choosing the one that suits. It is important to understand that IR varies by load, time, state of charge and method used, probably some other things too. A battery isn't a resistor, proper devices measure IR taking account of battery resistance, capacitance and inductance. Certainly you could compare the same battery over time to see its health and snapshot the IR for a specific circumstance. I use my meter to monitor battery health and see if what I have bought is as good as what I have. I couldn't use the data to compare my batteries to the data sheets with any accuracy. -You wont see volt drops like Airsoftlabs says because its not possible to drop voltage and maintain the current. They are calculations from data, hypothetical. -You cant extrapolate because of the above line. -You can't make any assumptions if you are being sciency, you can measure data and draw conclusions. Airsoft labs did some cool experimentation, i wish there was more, but more sciency.

I didn't. His only posts are sales posts (both of which are Mack's material) and has made no effort to bring anything to the forum so is fair game for a piss taking Edit: especially as he listed things as extras which come with the gun anyway

Not bought anything of substance from them, but I've been in their shop and the guy was very friendly, the range they had was pretty awesome and their prices seemed reasonable. I'd buy from them

Specna FLEX will be fine, and those Fire Support ones are a genuine bargain. The performance will be on par with a rental G36. They both have decent rotary hops, everything else is functional, but could be better. To get anything noticeably better I reckon you'd have to go to a gun with a fire control system like a Double Eagle M9XX series, or a Specna Arms EDGE 2.0, but you'll pay significantly more. You'll always want to be fiddling around, but it won't necessarily produce hugely better results. The FLEX will take all of the common parts like motors, hop rubbers, barrels, gears and such if you want to go that route. Or, with some more experience, you might end up relegating them to backup guns and go another route like AK, MP5, a G-gun, or whatever tickles your fancy. You'll rarely regret having a light, reliable, basic and unmeddled M4 in the bag or boot.

Introduction: The lost art of capacitors in airsoft The mythical powers of "capacitor banks" is not a new idea in airsoft, but the original sources and theories are lost in time, with only faint forum posts remain (all the links are dead in https://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/threads/capacitor-banks-revisited.8688/). In my pursuit of the ultimate trigger response in AEG, power supply remains a big unresolved issue because batteries (LiPo or NiMH) do not really give enough oomph for lack of a better word. We need something better, I thought, we need supercapacitors. And so I set out to rediscover the elementals of such dark magic from scratch (but based on the same principles). And I believe I have revived this magic which I will share my formula below. And dare I say, the surface of this dark art has not really been scratched, because the predecessors either did not use enough capacity (some examples were in the order of millifarads which is not nearly enough), and did not really use the correct type of supercaps (stacked coin cells hybrid types are not capable of high amps). And perhaps the right modules were not available until very recently, so this study will also represent a fresh look into this subject. If you want the bottom line: Why supercaps at all, isn't LiPo good enough? In short (excuse the pun), LiPo cannot provide sufficient peak current for the amp spikes during start of motor which is often in the region of 45-60 A. These micro-events of shorts (from the perspective of the battery) is also a main pathology of LiPo degrading and swelling over time. These spikes happen every shot in semi, and in the first shots in full-auto. This status quo practice of relying on abusing LiPo as sacrifice for performance does not sit well with me, because firstly it is electrically primitive, and secondly it is a safety risk in this toy gun industry that I think is unnecessary and should be done away with, at least as much as possible. The whole premise of using supercaps is to provide a voltage reservoir for surge power during these initial amp spikes. This is needed because these amp spike often exceed the capabilities of the battery (even LiPo) and the batteries drops voltage in response (for milliseconds) and unable to feed all the current needed for this initial spin-up of the motor. In theory, it can achieve the following: Surge power for much more responsive motor, resulting in snappier trigger response. Stabilised voltage supply for full-auto, resulting in better ROF. Protecting batteries from surge currents, prolonging their lifespan and minimise risks of LiPo fire. My evidence and theorisations are as follows. What is the actual energy requirement? To begin to figure out the solution, we need to ask, what is the minimum capacity to be effective? We can analyse these two graphs from airsoftlab.eu for theorycrafting. http://www.airsoftlab.eu/docs/experiments/motor_current/ To figure out the ballpark of energy levels we are talking about, I have picked two cases representative of a high stress build (with a 16 TPA motor) and a more optimal build (with a 28 TPA). The first graph is with 16 TPA motor, SP130, 13:1, to illustrate a typical suboptimal setup with a low torque motor paired with a high stress spring and gear ratio. The second graph is with a more comfortable 28 TPA motor with SP130 and 13:1 to show a more efficient setup. Just by eyeballing the graphs (and the blog), we can character these spikes (and the energy required to tame them) to be about 45A to 60A, for a duration of about 60ms. 16 TPA: 28 TPA: What do the numbers mean? There is a simple answer, and a more complex one. A simplistic way to translate this to farad (the capacity we need), using the 16 TPA setup as example, 60A for 60ms is 3.6 coulomb, which at 11.1V is about 0.324 F. For the 28 TPA example, this would be 2.7 coulomb, at 11.1 V this is 0.243 F. Therefore we can say our ballpark figure is about 0.25 F to 0.33 F as a minimum target. If we are aiming to create a unit that can work with worst case scenario, let's go with 0.33 F. However because supercaps discharge their voltage linearly (meaning their 11.1 V drops down to zero as it discharges over the 60 ms), we can think of it as sharing the workload with the battery in a 1:1 ratio (this is very simplified), meaning it is only doing half of the work while the batteries still need to supply the other half of the current (which is a big improvement already). Here is a prediction: In this predicted scenario, the amp spike seen by the battery should be reduced to less than half, because the supercaps will react faster to supply the spike, but as the supercap runs out of voltage, the battery will notice the difference in voltage and catch up, eventually supplying the full load in full-auto, but at a much improved stability. And as the trigger is released, the current stops, the supercaps are charged up again to battery voltage as the battery recovers from voltage sag. We can offload even more work from the batteries if we multiply the supercap capacity (say 3 times, to 1 F) so the they will perform in a 3:1 relationship i.e. 75% of the work are done by supercaps, which will stabilise the current even more. If we go bigger, say 1.66 F, the ratio will be 5:1, or 83% of work being done by supercaps. (The actual result will probably be better, the ratios e.g. 1:1 at 0.33 F are just conservative notional numbers I made up for ease of explanation. Supercaps are more responsive than batteries, and the overall lowered battery stress should further reduce overall voltage sag, so the battery should see less than 50% of the peak current, but I don't have the equipments to proof this hypothesis.) So let's say our notional baseline is 0.33 F, now we just need to implement this theory. Designing a supercaps unit Here is our goal: 1. Supercaps with total capacity of 0.33 F or more, bigger the better. 2. Voltage should be ok for airsoft usage. (Say a fully charged 11.1 V LiPo is around 12.6 V) 3. Overall size to be small enough to fit in a typical buffer tube, with room for cable management for most cases. Smaller the better. 4. (Bonus feature) built-in safety to drain residue voltage when unplugged. 5. (Bonus feature) LED to indicate presence of voltage. The obvious (and probably the only viable) strategy is to use 3 no. of 5-6 V supercaps in series to give us a 15-18 V headroom for the maximum 12.6 V we are expecting from a fully charged 11.1. The first problem is selection of supercaps. The second problem is designing the whole package that can physically fit inside the buffer tube. Long story short, here is my blueprint: (Just connect the supercaps in series, and then parallel with the batteries, I don't have a drawing) The Eaton supercaps I am using are the highest capacity that can still fit inside a typical buffer tube and wiring, and with one of the better ESR in its class, and can theoretically suffer 115 A of thermals over 60 ms, and tested to MIL-STD 202G for shock and vibration. They are wired (I'm using some fancy SPEC 44 16 awg wires) to a connector that goes between the AEG wire and battery wire, so it is completely plug and play, and removable for safety and for storage. It can in fact be stacked up (if you have multiple units) to give extra performance. For extra safety I have included a bleeder resistor to discharge the residue voltage in maximum 3 hours after it is unplugged. Also for safety (and aesthetics) I added an LED for visual indication of voltage presence. I am tempted to call it the PASTA 1000 (Pseudotectonic Advanced SupercapaciTor Array 1000 mF) but any suggestions welcome. Here is what it looks like in real life: Testing AEG: Specna E-19, completely stock (which has an X-ASR mosfet preinstalled.) Battery: 9.6 V NiMH, fully charged, measuring about 11.32 V when testing. This is just a simple A/B test to see if the supercaps work at all. I will simply alternate between plugging and unplugging the supercaps several times, then take measurements with groups of 6 to 7 shots, until the data are fairly consistent and/or a pattern can be identified. The groups are measured in Audacity and averaged and rounded to nearest millisecond. Also note I am not testing with any magazine inserted because A. that is not going to make massive difference either way and B. it is one less variable to worry about and C. if a BB goes off it is going to affect my measurements with sound. The results: Stock setup (without supercaps), group #1: Trigger response: from trigger action = 83 ms, from motor spin-up = [data missing] ROF: ~17.17 RPS With supercaps, group #1: Trigger response: from trigger action = 81 ms, from motor spin-up = 57 ms ROF: ~17.48 RPS (+1.8%) Stock #2: (I stopped measuring full-auto because it is getting too loud for the neighbours) Trigger response: from trigger action = 96 ms, from motor spin-up = 64 ms With supercaps #2: Trigger response: from trigger action = 74 ms (-23%), from motor spin-up = 62 ms (-3%) Stock #3: Trigger response: from trigger action = 90 ms (+22%), from motor spin-up = 69 ms (+11%) With supercaps #3: Trigger reponse from trigger action = 71 ms (-21%), from motor spin-up = 62 ms (-10%) Stock #4: Trigger response: from trigger action = 84 ms (+18%), from motor spin-up = 68 ms (+10%) With supercaps #4: Trigger response: from trigger action = 76 ms (-10%), from motor spin-up = 62 ms (-9%) Stock #5: Trigger response: from trigger action = 80 ms (+5%), from motor spin-up = 69 ms (+11%) With supercaps #5: Trigger response: from trigger action = 75 ms (-6%), from motor spin-up = 61 ms (-12%) Analysis of results: Definitely a noticeable audio difference in trigger response. The only way to describe it is it sounds more "instant" and there is less of the spin-up whine. I am not sure why the groups vary quite a bit (maybe battery and/or gearbox settling) but I think it is fair to say the supercaps are making a difference. If we average the data after group #3, with supercaps, the overall trigger response is about 14% improved, with the cycling time from motor spin-up is remarkably consistent at about 11% improved. The shorter lag time from trigger action to motor spin-up can be explained by the voltage stability provided by the supercaps. Overall I didn't know what to expect but I would say 14% improved trigger response is pretty good. It is definitely not a negligible difference, and definitely noticeable when compared side by side. But going by feel alone, it definitely feels a bit more snappy. ROF is probably improved a little bit, but more testing needed. The installation: This may be the only draw back. To actually fit the unit inside the buffer tube along with the X-ASR is a massive hassle, which I have to actually remove the original long heat shrink around the three wires to get them to flex, and re-crimp two out of three of the spade connectors to the X-ASR because they were damaged by too much bending. And even when the supercaps are in, it is still very stuck and you need to wrestle the wires to get the battery on and close the butt plate. Although I have done it with the stock fully collapsed and if I install it with the stock a few positions out, it will be easy. Once it's on, it works. But it is definitely not ideal if you have any in-line mosfet like mine. However if you use a proper mosfet inside the gearbox and just have wires in the buffer tube, it should fit very easily, potentially upping the supercaps to 5 F ones for even better trigger response. There is no noticeable sparks or heat or anything when install and in use. It simply lights up when you plug it in and it just works with zero drama. Here is how it looks like installed, with a fully collapsed stock, and without the stock: (it barely fits) To uninstall: If the battery is disconnected with just the supercaps plugged into the gun, the gun will barely able to do one shot and the second shot will be stopped by the mosfet because the voltage will have dropped too low. This is just as expected and fairly consistent with the maths. The LED: When you unplug everything, the LED stays on but slowly dims down over the course of about an hour (just as designed). This shows the draining resistor and the LED are all working as intended. I could also feel zero heat from the resistor, which is great and again matching expectation. The LED still visibly faintly glows even at as low as 2 V so it works perfectly for its purpose as a voltage indicator. The red LED is pretty to look at, although I might change the colour to something like blue or green, because the red can be mistaken as error from the mosfet. I might also move it to the "top" side of the "plug". Conclusion of experiment: The prove of concept is a success. Most importantly there is certainly a performance benefit (14% in my test). All the maths check out. The unit is fully functional and fully match the expectations. It literally is plug-and-play. The installation can be a hassle for wire management but that is purely down to physical space and should not be a problem if you are not using in-line mosfet. Conclusions and speculations More testing is needed with other setups, if you would like one for testing I can make you a copy for a fee. The tech tree can potentially branch into AKs or other platforms or even external compartments, but I don't have any of these for development. Here is a summary of what this device can do. The biggest feature for me is safety, because when the LiPo (or any battery) is shielded from stress they are much less likely to puff up over time and starting a fire. Another key thing is of course the performance. It works very well in my very first little experiment. Electrically the overall voltage floor and current ceiling is improved. Adding supercaps is a bit like transitioning from NiMH to LiPo, but on steroids. There is also where the drawbacks are, because a mosfet is probably a good idea for such power, and if you want to collapse the butt stock you will need a more advanced mosfet that sits inside the gearbox rather than the buffer tube, for cable management reasons. (If you copy what I did you will risk breaking some wires) In terms of use cases, it will benefit NiMH the most because the performance is suddenly brought closer to that of LiPo because the performance gap is effectively closed, making NiMH a viable option again. In fact it makes NiMH better than LiPo because NiMH is much safer. This is also a must if you are chasing the state-of-the-art trigger response or battery efficiency in any build. It will also help with cold weather performance. And the best thing is, this is essentially a "free upgrade" because it is an entirely new component added to the system, it does not replace or compete with any existing parts, and it doesn't need any complicated installation, it is literally plug-and-play. The only downside for now is with wire management inside the buffer tube to make room for it. I am not sure if there is enough space for guns other than an M4 but maybe you can find creative ways to fit it e.g. longer wires. This can potentially benefit rental fleets because it is the easiest upgrade possible with zero overhead on tech, plus it makes your NiMH or LiPo inventory much safer and longer lasting. The savings in overhead for battery management could be worth the investment. And when a gun dies you can very easily transplant it to the replacement gun. In theory, you can actually stack multiple units for extra performance (the only problem is finding the space to put them). Conclusion is, and I am probably biased, supercaps could be the next best thing in airsoft. If the space problem can be resolved. Please do comment if you spot any issues in the theory or in the blueprint. Thank you for reading.

Today I qualified for a UKARA licence and am going to buy our first guns. I say ‘ours’ as my 12 year old son and myself are taking up this hobby. I’ve been doing my research and think I’ve settled on the Specna Arms Flex series. These seem like good value for money and are very lightweight which I think is good for my son. I have to really think of the budget as I’m buying x2 of everything including face protection, spare mags, etc. Do you think this will be enough of an upgrade from the standard G36 rental guns? Anything else I should be considering? Thanks guys.

I don't see the point of mixing bushing and bearings because as per airsoft physics, the differences and variables affecting the three gears do not make them considerably different from one another in terms of the type of loading and the amount of force behind them The different surface finish on the axles themselves with different gears already makes it impossible to work out the precise newtons applying on a bearing because if it is anything but perfect it is going to have a bit of wobble, and the brand of bearing alone (and the size, and the amount and type of grease, heck even the amount of dust exposed) will determine your shock load capacity of the bearing which is what ultimately makes using bearing worth while for the speed advantage But since every particular setup is different, even the best bearings you can find will have a risk of exploding, again because of airsoft physics and tolerances If you have to be mathematical, the bevel gear spins the most, followed by spur and sector gear, so the bevel gear will benefit the most from the less resistance from a bearing, in theory, but if you are willing to take the risk of exploding bearings there is no reason to not use it on all three gears So it comes down to whether your setup is so marginal that your motor and battery cannot handle the negligible amount of extra resistance from bushings that you have to sneak in one or two or three bearings to lower the resistance, and choosing how many bearings to use is just a matter of risk management, because more bearings = more points of failure In my opinion, bushings work fine, they are more reliable, the speed difference is not worth the risks of failing bearings because they fail catastrophically in almost all cases If you want to put in bearings, I would start with putting on the bevel gear first, then spur, then sector gear, but in reality it does not matter because again, airsoft physics and tolerances is a pure chaotic mess therefore there is no theorycrafting possible, in reality it might even come down to the finishes of your particular gearbox and whether your shimming is making one of the gears rubbing on any one of the bearings, for example, so again, no theorycrafting is possible, because it is ultimately up to you and two million other variables

I keep seeing Doom-posting like this hence why I can't make up my mind. Alot of ppl talk have said bad things about WE and AA but now they are recommending these brands. Everyone seems to presume anything except a TM will explode after a week. Surely for the prices and brands I'm looking at, I'm avoiding a bed-shitting scenario? After this price point it's Novrisch and the the Agent 2 which I am waaaay too poor to even think about! Holster Queen, haha! Yeah I'm not thinking of running a pistol primary - just something for CQB/indoors when my M4A1 is a bit too big for the job. I guess my problem is I'm looking for guarantees in a hobby where stuff can just blow up, hence why I'm reluctant to stand behind either one.

Just trying to get some info on this vented muzzle break/ flash hider I found among my bits of spares It’s a CW thread Can’t seem to find anything when I google it

We had a tree surgeon on the team - butter, but with the common sense not to climb up trees to play shooting games When working he would be wearing the safety gear, harness etc, but if needed would shimmy straight up a tree - which was needed more than once when some clever dick would throw an objective prop up a tree. He did once nip up a free as a favour for the site with saw and without harness - the expected happened when he fell out but only resulted in bruising and a limp ……….. Stating the obvious, but players should not be up trees and anything other than screaming from staff to get down now is calling for a public liability case

I've seen a few recorded instances of a lens detaching from the frame, but not a failure of the polycarb itself. Anything close to 2mm should shrug off airsoft energies, I'd be interested in hearing the circumstances of an exception. Oh, agreed, I'd never play in shooting glasses, even with a retention strap. Full seal, all the way, find a way to deal with the fogging.

I'm an avid GBBR user, took an aeg to the last game day as an extra back up as the weather was looking cold. Used the aeg for about half a game before I got bored of it and switched over to the L85 that ran faultlessly for the rest of the day Lol The MWS does seem to have a devoted following, and I'm sure it is an amazing platform, however most of mine are WE. I run an L119 A1 and an A2 , the L85 G36 and G3 all WE , The L85 was the first , an airsoft jumble purchase that I rebuilt, so when I started on the 119's it made sense to stick with WE for mag compataility. My take on the WE platforms is that the M4 platform is excellent, mine get a M/L rubber and Omega nub and one has a crazy jet barrel. They have proved to be completely reliable and have been my main go to guns for two or three years now. Setting the hop is a bit of a faff due to it's location, although my patented hop adjusting tool makes it easier, but once set, the hop is stable and rarely needs another tweak. I'm running .30's in all by GBBRs which are a good compromise, but they will easily lift heavier. As well as mine I have also built 2 other 119's for mates on WE base. The only failure across all of them is on one of those and is due to operator error, somw numpty charged it whilst on safe and caused some damage to the trigger box . In that case I dropped in an RA tec trigger box as I had one in my spares stash which I had never bothered to fit to mine. Spares if required are cheap and easy to get , other than an NPAS and the rubber / nub I wouldn't bother 'upgrading' anything untill something breaks. Lots of real steal parts fit straight on. The L85 is a little more tempremental, but the main issue of bolt damage has been cured in the later ones with a strengthening plate. Again , easy to strip and work on, same hop unit as the M4. Mine was running like a train last time out in single didget temperatures on red gas. The G36 is now mainly a loaner if anyone wants to tra GBBR, it needs a go through having been on loan for over a year, but it's a good platform, easy to work on , hop is easy to adjust. I dont run it 'cos the mags are a pain in the arse to fit in pouches. The G3 is a beast, it's the fully trade marked version, is running totally stock except for an NPAS and will easily over hop my standard .30's . Makes a very distinctive crack when firing, hop easy to adjust , always catches me out with the dead man's click on empty as I am so used to the 119's locking back ! My other two are the Umarex MP7 ( full size unlike the TM) totally stock and an absolute scream to use . Then there is the VFC M249, Oh My ! It's so much fun to use, I load my mags to 120 rounds , fill the gas tank in the box mag and just have a blast. The noise is incredible, one game I saw people from the other team stand up and run the other way when I opened up. One of them came and found me later and said ' that thing sounds terifying ' 🤣 A mate has the WE SCAR H and it is very nice, but we did end up using an after market hop unit to get it shooting consistantly. I never feel out gunned with any of them, they all have as much range as any other non dmr / sniper airsoft gun and accuracy on most is excellent. I've spent plenty of time dialing the sights I use on each and allow for recoil when I fire. The 249 has more of a shotgun effect, but I'm happy enough with that in a support weapon. Mags wise I generally carry 5 for the 119's , 85 and G3 plus a speed loader. I recon on 2.5 BB loads to a gas fill, so have about 300 rounds for a game. 4 mags for the MP7 but they are 40 rounds . Mags are in pouches on a plate carrier . I make sure to use the mag that has been closest to my body first from each pouch, moving the outer one in when I put the empty into the pouch. I tend to run hot when I excersise and find the mags are happy with this system. Sorry, long post, but hopefully helpful.

Hi everyone. Got into Airsoft but I haven’t liked the woodland maps too much. I want an outdoor sight where the maps are not like ‘woodland’ with trees, big bushes etc… but rather where they make the map, like with barrels, wooden walls etc etc. I don’t like the woodland atmosphere where you can barely see anyone or anything. I like maps that have all artificial/man-made cover with objects. It’s much easier to see people and much easier to navigate the map and see the objective. I went Mayhem for the call of duty experience once for a friends birthday and the maps were amazing. I know this sight offers skirmish days but not every week. does anyone know of any sights that offer this in the London area.

My son and I have played a few games now and I have a question on reloading. We are still using the hire guns so only have one magazine. Often mid game we run out and have to reload which involves pouring bb’s from a bag into the mag and always end up spilling them everywhere. there must be a better way. I’ve seen the dispensers but wonder if there’s anything else I’ve missed. thanks

From what I've seen regarding reviews these kits are fine and no one complaining they fall apart or anything. BBs aren't going to destroy these things, so why do people act like we need to be nuclear-proof? I'll definitely look at these links though, but not looking to prepare for war in Ukraine when my biggest worry is getting a bit dirty!

I'd concur. Anything short of an AB++ is largely pointless, and I include using 11.1V, given that trigger contacts are a £5 part. The AB++ is a well featured unit, and easy to fit.

Hi, I'm brand new to airsoft. 1 skirmish. Just like to say if anyone browses youtube looking for airsoft vids, he's one of the first that pops up. I'll never meet the guy, but i know every video i've watched someone is having a go at him, for something. I didnt subscribe or anything, preffering Dutch the Hooligan or Silo tbh. The guy is going to pop up for anyone unknowingly searching for airsoft content basically. cheers

I've done a search but cant find the answer that I need. I've also searched youtube, which has done nothing to make the issue any clearer. I have a rather lovely cyma Blue Mp5 ( you may have seen it here), using ASG LiPo 7.4v batteries. I've no intention of using anything other than these at the moment. I like it as it is. At the moment. So, as I'm not going to be using 11.1v batteries, do I need to fit a mosfet? Would I gain anything from fitting one? Desperately wanting to fettle but only if it's worth it.

Couldn’t tell you what’s it’s called, all I had to do was scan the QR code on the box or instructions if I find them, I’ll pop the QR up here for you. The app icon doesn’t give anything away either 🙄

Yup, I have one of those, they're fine. Aside, you're not going to win a "But my chrono says..." argument, so there's no point in having anything that's more betterer than whatever your local sites are using.