Sitting Duck

Welcome m8 and yes we all regret not getting into playing peew peew with toy guns sooner.... Sort of a bit COD-like except one shot kill And us older players quickly realise we ain't gonna mantle and dolphin dive through windows dropping to prone quite as easy as we first thought like them games Truth be told I just sweat buckets in mid winter thinking about rushing around. Keeps ya fit or knackered in my case Great fun whatever level you play at

I play for fun and leave my ego at home If other players/marshals did the same but kept common sense safety aspect then we wouldn't need to bitch so much Well yeah I'd still bitch but that is coz I'm miserable git

Really tough one tbh.... Pistols and bfg's - you can go for yonks without using 'em Others use them all the time.... Suppose you could say that about a backup AEG You might hardly ever need one if your luck holds On the other hand say get 2 x M4's Long n small / stubby for wood/cqb Or AK 47 & 74 if you prefer Best of both worlds having a big n small gun That take same mags m $hit Plus have the option to switch to what suits the game or site you are playing at the time

plus on here we are beholden to no single store so we can freely say buy this from there this is a good shop - don't buy that from z1 get if from ak2m4 or lwa or Gunfire etc....... (without having our bottoms slapped - yes please beat me hard ya bitch) only downside to this place - ME

Majority ain't that bad in airsoft The few that are ego tripping ar$eholes I tend to think they are converted paintball marshals

cheapo FAST type helmet rather than a pith m88 helmet you don't absolutely NEED one until you bash/scrape ya noggin then you NEEDED one !!!! yes you can get by with something like a baseball cap/beanie but believe it or not a mediocre helmet and some cheapo knee pads does help avoid a few bashsed nuts n knees (especially if scrambling about in woodland or smashing your head on a door frame in cqb) edit - bashed nuts = head btw, for the other type you need a groin box and a little "chat" with your opponent if they keep shooting your own personal bb's cheapo snidey FAST type about £30 fleabay UK selleror about £20 upwards from EU or overseas and wait a while do tend to give you that "pro" image but only if you got some other attire as well mind you for cqb at places like the Mall I don't think anything beats a guy in suit dark shades/goggles and packing 2 x pistols (either he's extreme bad-ass or just doesn't give a toss about pain when you look that feckin' hard)

I'm at work atm so I suggest watch if not sure how to separate the two bits of receiver Doesn't invalidate any warranty coz you ain't opening gearbox or motor, besides if you get a really bad jam or change barrel hop bucking you gotta do this anyway. Look at a video to double check if not sure Separate 2 halves and you will see the piston in port window and understand a lot more what I'm trying to say in my duc-ollox language It is hard to see a black nozzle in a grey hop whilst peering down into magwell even when you understand it a bit. Red SHS nozzle is easier to see at first glance than the stock black nozzle. So consider separating the receivers

be nice if it was quick change spring but alas not on most G&G's (think that is another one of their new ideas to implement on newer models coming out soon) most first time openers spring change/box opening doesn't always go to plan (mine deffo didn't I will honestly admit - well a few boxes didn't that is for sure) The spring will be fine soonish - just might need a tiny bit of help either precock or a few bits of tape to push hop away weird thing is though you may get 349.999 at chrono in morning fire a few hundred shots/bursts or dry fire through it and due to dunno a bit of friction/heat maybe the cylinder may warm a little and expand a smidge of a smidge - I have found just recently and after a blast on bb hosing - the fps is bit less at chrono after this spraying I ain't studied this crap very much - believe it or not I ain't that sad but after a while I guess the cylinder may cool a little and higher fps/seal may return to its higher figure

This forum doesn't have the bandwidth for me to even start listing all my mistakes that I'm STILL making BUT the main mistake I think was why the hell didn't I get into this much much sooner ? (say 5+ years ago and I might not be quite so crap at it - well that is just a theory but I'd still be $hite no doubt)

I was going by the normal way the gearbox cycles after a shot is fired and the piston releases on semi the motor runs on a smidge even when cut off engages and usually starts to just pull nozzle back a little often sector has just started to get near engaging piston and cam starts to retract tappet - so nozzle is starting to part away from hop I looked at sector's cam for tappet and on a full stock untrimmed tappet plate the nozzle stays fully back as the piston compresses at about halfway on sector gear the cam starts to release tappet plate so nozzle now starts to shoot forward to load bb & seal against hop (ready for piston releasing very soon after) The easiest thing is to remove magazine and pop the front gearbox pin then you may see the cylinder port window in the gearbox (if not and stock guns being what they are - not so brilliant seals - rotate cylinder until its port is visable) Now what you want to do is inch the gun until the the o-ring on piston passes the rear of cylinder window which should be aprox 66% to say 75% on the cm18's porting for its 275mm barrel you will then be able to see through the single hole or port in the cylinder where the bastid piston is rather than try and "guess" its position by nozzle and gauge if spring is being compressed which is not as easy as it may sound even if you fully understand how the gearbox itself cycles the front pin on G&G's just pops back but not out - it is just designed to stay in there by a spring retainer on pin once popped the top receiver will slide fowards from main lower receiver you may notice it might catch slightly on very top of gearbox case but you can just slightly lift upwards at that point to clear just do it a little slowly and it just comes away real easy on G&G's look up on google/youtube - not coz it is that tricky or hard but often like my first description it can be difficult to understand anybody let alone all the crap I type on a regular day to day basis as long as you can see the port/window on the blue cylinder in gearbox it will be a LOT easier to understand and precock the spring or failing that spring compression thingy - you will see where to place a few bits of tape at front of gearbox to reduce the good seal and in effect lose a tiny bit of seal to bring down fps with a slightly less than perfect seal to bucking/hop hopefully some of this makes sense but soz in advance if you are not fluent in talking duck - even I don't understand most of my crap pop the top receiver and you know for sure where piston/spring is at is the best easiest way

alas majority of stuff is just knocked out to keep costs down to remain competitive... even if fet's fail - the donkey work of wiring in has been done already to replace fet with better bells n whistles one if needed The other thing I'd like to see is like a slightly better build in most guns Can't be THAT hard, to correct AoE, better head & nozzle ffs so gun performs and functions that bit better Not talking about a mega time consuming custom bespoke build where hours are taken to check/assemble But surely - stop calling me Shirley Surely - they could add in a o-ring nozzle, better piston o-ring & better head with AoE nearly done or corrected a bit better than stock just using a few better parts probably only a few dollars each part would save the owner having to get it done at some point yes a little more cost - but a better performing gun would sell itself even if it cost say $10 to $15 more until then they will just be knocking out the same old same old stuff that may need finishing off a little Echo1 & Krytac might be using a little more care - but wtf don't the main companies do this anyway ?

not sure but they do partly strip the rails/gun etc to give it a coating but they know their G&G stuff so though it don't get sprayed in situ reckon it won't take too long before its shipped - if they already got a gun sprayed already (not many retailers would do this spraying a RIF to IFwithout order first but on stuff like Raider or popular models they "might" paint a few at a time)

cheers for confirming that sir - still a lovely receiver as I said earlier saw 1 left in stock last week at LWA but only just about managed to silence the buy me buy me screams in my head the receiver and the stock is what I like the most - the ambi mag & charging handle is not a biggy but the design of receiver is gorgeous etc.... very nice gun - time will tell if super duper new trigger switch module is a good robust idea mechanically wise but only just talked myself out of it - a very very close battle going on in my head sexy gun - slightly jealous but very pleased for ya - reckon we will see a few people going for this 3rnd fetted sexy CM good ol' G&G parts pdf.... http://guay2.com/web/drawings/cm/CM16_SRS_explode.pdf coz was looking to see if the stock is gonna be called the GOS-V3 or something but not found the exact type/model yet (might see how much - probably silly money but hey ho)

think it is a new polymer receiver but with metal keymod rail pretty sure it is a plastic/polymer receiver or it really is f*cking good value if them new CM receivers are metal the extra dosh over a £130-£150 normal polymer receiver CM is for the 3rnd fet and keymod rail much like the bot 300 - just a single shot fet using old style polymer CM receiver Stock is a crane variant of the GOS-V2 or something and should of been fitted to FireHawk amongst others the burst mode can toggle to semi 1 shot or 3 rnd burst by holding trigger for 10 seconds in semi selector mode if its full metal think I gotta make up an excuse to missus to try and increase my G&G collection once more but really trying to ease up a bit now youtube link but bloke talks like a nob btw: me on the other hand I am a nob as well as talking like one

What "can" sometimes happen is that you store the gun with it pre-cocked by accident over time the spring will lose tension a considerable bit and can drop to under 300 if left like this for a while 2 things to do on finishing for day when you return home to store gun (or just leave it in bag - store gun is a term loosely used but mine are always wrapped in silk blankets) anyway - empty mags as if stored with spring wound hi caps or mid-caps they can lose tension and efficiency often with hi-caps you gradually find you no longer get 20-30 or so shots on a full winding and this drops the crappy half a dozen also fire gun on semi twice they say to help ensure gun/spring/gears are parked correctly with min tension what you are trying to do is leave it pre-cocked/wound for a little while to deliberately lose a smidge of tension and no you wouldn't lose much if any real tension by a game or two the cm.515 was still 348/349 and I did just adjust a smidge more hop to get her under (ain't gonna clean barrel just yet either or I could be back over the limit, and forget a tbb in there for a while) Lipo battery I'd leave it partly charged and charge it night before game but don't listen to me too much about lipo's note this was dodgy looking lipo - crapped myself as it sparked hissed dropping it in hallway then bursting into flames kicked it out the front door friday night but scorched the carpet - missus not happy but on flip side now got the go ahead to buy a ton of new lipo's but take it from me - if they look a bit dodgy or more just a little puffy replace them this was a cheapo brand x one and not a proper decent make like Zippy, Turnigy, Vapex, WE etc.... f*ck me all smoke alarms going off and stink - maybe make a claim on insurance or she will get new hall carpet could of been a LOT LOT worse - so yeah a little care IS needed in handling/storing/charging lipo's (another lesson learnt - but this was a moody battery btw so don't all rush out and build asbestos charging rooms - just common sense)

not 100% certain but sure you can toggle 3 or 1 shot mode I know it must be very anti-geezer-ish but maybe it might be worth a look in the man, manu, - damn it is so hard to say it M A N U A L - manual - done it, woohoo that is always a tricky one to say let alone look at & use and yeah - the new receivers and the new craney stock looks damn nice

nice stock on them and the revised polymer receivers look nice - no big white CM got their own special unique electronic trigger switch unit & fet is that the 3 round burst mosfet in there on the new SRL models very nice looking gun (I'm sure their fet's and the new trigger switch is gonna be ok)

AAARRRRGHHHHHHHHHH jbbg ok don't bother with old school nimah's no more http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=44626 They come from EU but will arrive quickly by end of week get at least 3 or even 4 of them at that crazy price - wait a few minutes and price drops to under £4 I think stuff one down each tube and you are deffo covered for a long morning fire fight replace these at lunchtime anyway and head out with fresh mofo's for afternoon a cheap lipo charger can be bought for about £10 to £15 search B3 or B6 lipo charger but get from a genuine UK supplier - b6 will need a seperate psu to power it b3 is a straight forward 240v one http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Imax-RC-B3AC-2S-3S-LiPo-RC-Battery-Balance-Charger-with-Uk-Plug-UK-STOCK-/161762393796?hash=item25a9ca3ec4 also look over at component shop too http://www.componentshop.co.uk/batteries/airsoft/li-po-packs/74v YOU have to double - triple check any battery you buy fits in your gun correctly if unsure measure existing ones or make up a battery shape from cardboard/paper/sticky back plastic/washing up bottle etc.... get a grown up to help you using round nosed scissors and see if they dummy battery you made up fits in there then decide if enough room for wires etc....... but YOU need to check - so don't sue me if you buy a battery that is too big to fit in there (I have done that before so now I really really do some checking before clicking on anything)

you pull trigger and release it early before piston fires thus leaving spring compressed nearly ready to release/fire not easy to gauge or see even with G&G box showing with top receiver removed as they don't have a rear window to see piston/spring position on gearbox shell battery in, leave it on full auto - reason if you don't get it right first attempt you may end up with the trigger in the "dead zone" by releasing trigger a smidge earlier and have to flick to full auto anyway look down magwell after she has fired..... (dry fired btw as all guns should be mag free & cleared of course) (note MAGWELL not barrel - anybody that don't understand this important bit should not proceed ffs) the nozzle - black stock nozzle should be starting to go backwards allowing a bb to enter as you inch over the gun - that nozzle should shoot forward as tappet/nozzle is released at this point the spring is roughly 66% to 75% cocked/compressed..... you could leave it in this state over night to help lose a little tension from spring no longer than over night I'd say as you only want it to drop a little that is one of a few ways to bring fps down care needs to be taken as most teeth are plastic not metal - only 1 last tooth is robust metal but the Black G&G piston is a good sturdy one so it should be fine for a little precocking overnight if not sue me next time you see me oh and ambi mag catch - son's 416 has this on it: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Double-side-left-right-hand-Magazine-Release-Catch-for-M-series-Airsoft-AEG-/111674731179?hash=item1a00552aab got sent it by error/mixup - better than the Bi-8001 stock mag catch so asked for invoice and kept it on there temped to maybe getting another one perhaps

not exactly that no semi mofo is the dsg hc05 version the FireHawk started to appear last April '14 - GiantKiwi got one of the first ones on here they soon went straight out of stock but a new shipment came in July '14 - my ukara time the very first ones had a different tactical grip and later ones August/September onwards a plain CM grip turns out the first ones with Tactical grip had a TopTech sticker on box and fired fairly quick - not amazing but quite good for stock later ones didn't seem to perform quite as good - yup close inspection revealed a normal regular sticker on gearbox as seen in magwell on top of that these later std FH's had a 21:1 gear ratio so it was obvious they were firing slower than the first TT FH's seems like G&G made the first lot to perform really well so it got great reviews maybe or they thought best tone it down a bit to last but the TopTech one I still haven't busted open yet to check what is so Top Tech inside both the regular FireHawk's work great on semi & full auto - nice cqb gun it was when they launched the DSG version in April (was due to launch around Nov '14) it said in manual no semi - which is daft as most cqb is semi only close up think they deliberately avoided or changed the dsg gear with no semi cut off cams x 2 to avoid patent/copyright trouble with Riot who originally created the DSG. SHS & Modify have made their clones of dsg's but they have semi cams on theirs but a slight different gear design (avoiding direct infringement of copyright/patents) G&G should of approached Riot - not cheap gears or at very least got into partnership with SHS maybe - but they didn't and made their own the first dsg's were very badly finished and I will not be buying another for sure Only the HC05 DSG doesn't have semi-auto other std FireHawks work fine in semi - just like a normal G&G Combat Machine They are ok but also battery location in stock tube is a pain - nice stock on FH & GC16 often people install a black crane nunchuck stock on FH's or like most of out stuff a fixed stubby M4 to chuck in block batteries

FireHawk - actually think the proper term is Fire Hawk (G&G) £140 mini cm18 with a 110mm barrel and loud as f*ck due to duck beak amplifier (does get on your nerves especially in tunnels and enclosed echoey spaces)

not tweaked any of my ics's yet but gotta be do-able, the sorbo/neoprene just goes on the cylinder head to push the piston back a smidge the piston removal of 2nd tooth and reduced 3rd tooth - all do-able without open main lower gearbox just the upper gearbox you need to work on, check the postion of pick up tooth and just clearing reduced 3rd tooth ok pretty straight forward - ensure you got great seal on piston to cylinder - or replace o-ring polish cylinder with siicone cloth, leave good fitting o-ring in a some silicone overnight - cheers Ian & others for tips bit of silicone grease assembling top box back together - with a few bits of lithium/teflon grease on piston's teeth chuck it all back together - job done without removing whole gearbox Reason why AoE is important is coz without it the sector picks up the initial pick tooth so very early to miss 2nd gear it actually forces piston upwards as it pulls it back it can't go upwards coz the guides/runners so though this resistance is ok-ish on stock speed guns when you start to push it faster it WILL snap off very quickly as it fires faster n faster metal rack has not solved the problem like was said so you should deffo look into this and consider doing it

replace the " 1 " with an unknown qty or wtf lets just put a simple " ? " in there instead coz Mrs Duck just don't believe my: "yup I know I said that was it - but this is the last gun I need to get" underneath breath I mutter - well until next month or they release the newer mofo version oooh that looks nice - stop it

Airsoft is actually a really cheap sport/hobby it only gets expensive or out of hand if you let it (or really sad like moi)