Sitting Duck

well as my loadout is simply jeans n trainers I am trying to chuck together a few ideas/options for a scope of any sort on my AK & SVD I bought yup not very authentic maybe with the scopes I may use but I don't care, end of the day it is the owners gun and their decision/right to fit anything they like on there - sure it may not be the real deal but this airsoft I don't worry too much - I'm here to have a bit of fun and hopefully shoot a few peeps before I get owned..... maybe I will get a more authentic looking scope in the end but for now will just use anything I got lying around and see how these AK's & me get on - longer barrel bigger mags than M4's - gotta have some respect for the AK (can see why these cheapo ugly old choice of terrorists weapons often give the M4's a run for the airsoft money)

But would you still gain effective trigger response unless the delay/pause/wait only came into effect when using say the one touch 3 round burst eg: 20 rps = 0.05 seconds per shot - now say we drop to 10rps coz easier maths = 0.1 seconds cycle unless that came only into effect when using a say a one touch 3 or 5 round burst then you could be adding 0.05 secs to the first cycle hopefully if it came into effect only on the burst mode then you would not be adding 0.05 seconds to each manual cycle, coz unless I am looking at this all wrong that 0.05 sec extra timing is in effect making trigger response worse if happening all the time excuse my ignorance if there is more to this than my noobish head is getting around and I could be failing to understand the major difference between rate of fire and trigger response time all the same - think a selector switch is an option I may prefer rather than mess about reprogramming or changing the burst setup/config (a little bit of work modifying but if you that serious about this kind of upgrade then you wouldn't be wary of using drill/dremmel on your aeg) Heck if you really wanted to go nutz on this with more bells whistles n options I suppose: fit 2 - yes 2 rotary switches to say underside of stock or other place than you could use but not knock the switches position easily.... switch 1 - burst fire on 3 - 5 - 7 - 9 etc..... switch 2 - pause delay of 0.025, 0.05, 0.75 or 0.1 seconds to adjust the rate of fire when using burst fire modes of course this would have to be incorporated into yet another new generation of ACSU's but then - c'mon what would be next - thermal heat sensor linked to scope that automatically fires at enemies ??? I mean with so many bells n whistles on there it would kinda make it a little ott or take out some of the skill some have of having a good responsive trigger finger perhaps - any noob could pull off a perfect fast or slow 7 round burst at a simple flick of a switch from day one the most important thing to me atm is a trigger switch that won't fail on me in the moment on semi or just as I close the box and start a few good test shots - only to find out - arrgh its gone again ffs !!!

Very much doubt if pwm is used - instead they used the pause or a similar "wait" command in pic chip pwm on mosfets would be making them trigger so fast that even if they did work at such speed/modulation the amount of heat produced would not be good for the fet let alone motor triggering on/off at high speed to in effect emulate a lower voltage for less rps Where as the pause/wait of .05 m/sec per cycle would be similar to drop battery from 11.1v lipo to 9.9v life (don't quote me on this exact voltage figure but just using it as example to lower rps from say 25 to 20) but to be fair - i don't see this being so ultra high important feature of lowering your rps by delaying the cycle But we will all have different requirements/setups so feel that mounting everything inside gearbox though clever on the latest microswitch/mosfet system - just means you are putting all eggs in one basket/gearbox Yes it saves room but to be fair - with careful planning of battery size/location most could use seperate mosfet or burst mosfet/wizard - or lipo alarm too I guess if you have the room but that is just my preference of seperate fet outside box - suppose if it did eveything and made tea then all in box would be ok - but still not cheap if they come back in stock Russel - one option could be to simply wire up a switch to toggle the supply to either burst wizard or direct to switch/motor that way you in effect have your burst setup or just plain old simple system though I am not sure if burst wizard would be completely ok being bypassed if it was still connected as it may have some flowing back to it from switch/motor running on old system if you get what I trying to say. if damage could occur then the exit line from burst wizard would need to isolated too or a some protection used to prevent damage if power flowed back to rear of wizard yes a 3/4/5/6 position switch - prob a rotary type switch with different small resistors fitted to it would then send an analogue value to the controller in wizard/pic chip to say fire at X mode depending on the value the switch gives out but doubt atm if there is some "external" port/output on most wizards/chips for this option but something I feel I would like to have - eg: 3 burst full auto - but quickly go to 7/9 round if surrounded by more foes, or vice-versa if I find I'm low on ammo without having to mess about holding down trigger to reprogram the burst again I am no electronic expert at all - but have dabbled a bit with stuff and atm just trying to visualise in my head any possible problems with numerous options that we all use/require as well as wishing to try some things myself but torn for time what with work/family/sleep and just generally trying to have a life on top - but there are many improvements and options for what currently - ha excuse the pun, the old school trigger/cycle system

stand alone fet's can be used on any gearbox the internal ones that fit inside the gearbox's v2 & v3 are different all-in-one's so to speak the burst wizards & proper Gate brand of mosfets are stand alone/seperate or plug in versions that fit in stock/front/battery compartment - that is the type you would use with an L85 or other non-run of the mill v2/3 gearbox systems The "pause" command used in the micro pic chip isn't the same as pwm - that would be a bad idea of lower the voltage - but pause to adjust the whole cycle timing is better (but can't work out why really you would want to drop say 25rps to 20rps unless site said 20rps max) PWM is used in many areas like pc fan - it send a 12v signal in a pulse pattern to keep fan at xxx rpm this is monitored as well as cpu temp and adjust as/when needed - clever stuff BUT PWM on an airsoft can work in theory but you would be pulsing high amps/load on that poor mosfet a rapid high amp lot of pulse low voltage signals to trigger the fet and if the fet could respond that quickly then poor thing would really heat up in that moment - thankfully they not using pwn on the fet but pause command in the pic controller Or a quick puase/countdown timer in m/secs before triggering the next full cycle on full auto (presume either full auto or a 3/5/7 burst on full auto) think reason some plug-in burst wizards/fets work for some and not others is mainly coz different setup that peeps use - some may run with a high load and others a weaker faster load setup that may/may not trigger false overloads or cause burst wizard not to respond too well I know they work in some guns ok and others not so well and have Swiss Arms (avacado type) and King Kong 2 wizards - though not tried these KK out yet as just got them for £10 offer with some guns (Airsoft World net - but only on some guns - most guns don't have this £10 offer on them)

Life are excellent bridge between the 7.4v & 11.1v lipo's BUT - limited range of battery types/sizes/amps - maybe about 10 or a dozen options where as lipo's - loads n loads of sizes/styles/power Raider's have crane stock at back so 2xstick or nunchuck type battery req but the tubes in crane stock need to be checked/measured to ensure battery dimensions will fit ok & correctly - aprox 18mm - 20mm tube size BUT YOU NEED TO CHECK different batteries and different manufactures will vary and just 1mm will be difference in fitting or no chance - hammering in a tight fitting battery is not wise - will need to remove/change/charge hence I love a small stubby fixed stock on M4's - lot less messing about but that is my personal pref but a m8 still uses 9.6v nimh nuchuck/crane vapex batteries as they are still going and works for him so until they give up he sees no point in going down life/lipo route just yet he says

I think they are for fitting to CYMA 039's only - like ugly 039c etc.... but may be able to fit with a little modification like a small plastic block glued/screwed on to them screw in the rear fixing point I got a 28A and one these mounts plus another style mount - underneath/side mounting to give a short rail on top, maybe too short for a nice scope but could fix a longer rail on there I suppose.... or maybe look into drill/dremel a rail on top myself with screws & glue - not sure what scope mount system I might use on my AK but google cyma 039 for more pics on this "damn how the heck does it fit on other AK's" mount, goes on 039 easy but alas not on 28

http://www.airsoftsniperparts.com/apps/webstore/products/category/639220?page=1 & http://www.airsoftsniperparts.com/upgrading-an-l96

Blimey - no need to quote all my crap I type - no wonder internet is slowing down if you use microswitches then you MUST use a mosfet of some description and by that I mean properly wired into the switch as the poor little tiny microswitches just can't handle real juicy power switching from heavy high torque motors and big high amp batteries they won't arc - they will just melt the burst wizards are good but for full effect they should be wired into switch as on their own they can be hit n miss if they work properly - otherwise they can be hit n miss for some setups as peeps use different motor/batteries/springs so the loads will vary for each gun to another The old school switch/trigger system is prone to failing in a few areas not just arcing/carbon build up the way it is released - I'd say yanked by metal cut out/off lever and fact that metal lever yanking the switch (plastic) means the switch is prone to wear, not just by the lever but also trigger too as it clicks back into position - very clever mechanically but quite dated now and prone to wear the pin behind switch which if fails allows the switch to return too far and trigger will not engage it again this can happen and results in a dead trigger - zilch happens on auto or semi Yeah i am looking into this coz fed up with a couple of boxes failing on trigger/switch and can't see why still using dinosaur method - unless like many things it is a cost issue but no way should stuff like this be £100 or even £50 ffs you I feel would probably be looking at motor for improved trigger response is my gut feeling I think the switch system should be just that and a mosfet in near battery - with an option to change/tweak heck you can program the king kong/avacado burst wizards really easy or have a simple 3 pole switch to say allow you to use on auto - full auto or 3 round or 7 round burst without config mosfet/wizard say switch mounts on right or underside side of stock or ris and allows user to quickly change auto modes depending on the developing situation around them - eg: low ammo/caught out in a 1v1 peeking battle loads of possible different options and everybody will have different requirements and budgets but present switch/cycle system is showing its age, but there have been numerous other ASCU's over years most have been dropped/changed/updated so I doubt if it is that simple or easy to perfect a better system to suit all users all the same the present system needs improvement in my book

ASCU - v2 or v3 http://www.airsoftsystems.com/?id=8 trouble is the whole classic trigger system is so dated and very prone to failing the basic timing on semi relies on the cut off lever releasing the switch but in practice it is more like yanking it out and trigger then engages it when you release trigger absolute poxy design prone to wear & failure in a few places still the main timing is the cut off lever & cam on sector gear for semi, or cycle just as the main spring is released, the cut of lever pops/yanks the switch and stops the motor So if you wanted the piston say 75% cocked then you could remove the cam on sector and perhaps fit/bolt a new cam in a new earlier position - but this wouldn't have a release mechanism like on ICS's for that you would probably need to rig up a lever to pop the anti-reversal latch to release the 75% cocked spring - but another problem is tappet plate if it has loaded a bb - so there is a chance that a double may be fed if released from 75%. So having gun cocked @ 75% & release backwards may not be a wise thing or easily done without a fair amount of work/cost to change the way the gun cycles as you put it The super duper trigger systems are way way way overpriced and often out of stock now going through many revisions, later versions now have mosfet(s) inside gearbox with the micro switches ans use the the metal gearbox casing as a heatsink for the mosfets - clever but means you have to use their system not others like Gate mosfets etc... Plus you need to open up box to change/replace the main control system/mosfet Also with many of these systems a bit of modification is required - some more than others, often the original safety is removed, and perhaps anti reversal latch when used with high end motors.... I have been studying this dated trigger system lately and would prefer the older classic simpler design of just low volt micro switches and leave the mosfet choice to me user(has to have a fet coz of low volt switches used) Obviously the mosfet would be outside the box for easy change/replacement plus you do wonder how that box and the shock when firing would fair shaking them components to bits over time Your main objective of quick snappy trigger response might be better achieved by a higher torque motor, and perhaps short stroking if still not enough trigger response for you..... on average say guns fire anywhere between 15 to 25 rps - so say 20rps on a nice average setup for easy maths that is a shot fired every 0.05 seconds and no real need for pre-cocked spring and all that.... Dunno how bad or desperate you need to be able to fire at a target quickly but feel a higher torque motor is perhaps going to help you more with what you want - unless your trigger system is shagged and are looking at the new systems but though they do these for both v2 and v3 gearbox's the price/availability is still way overpriced imho so maybe you should get a SHS, GP, ZCI, Big Dragon high torque motor etc...... meantime I am still looking at trigger setup and toying with idea of throwing together own system instead of dated switch

record sound of you hitting tin - dustbin, baking tray for just over a sec in windows - most basic sound software of freebie audacity open wav/mp3 sound file count the spikes of tin getting shot over the 1 sec or 0.5 or 2.0 sec time frame or buy x3200 x-cortech take out guess work and know your fps as well as rof let rip a burst of say about 10 shots on auto & it will tell you straight away both figures but using your mobile I guess you could dry fire it for a sec or two - then look at wav file counting the "slaps" of piston pushing out the air & again count the spikes within a 1 sec time frame using something like the sound software would be a little messing about I guess at first but once set you could just dry fire a gun for a sec or two - heck even a few different ones and find out on screen which is faster to settle an argument might be an app to count beats per min & divide by 60 or something like that techy wise dry firing a gun may not be exact same as firing a loaded mag as there must be some slight resistance when propelling a bb out of barrel as opposed to dry firing but as long as all tests on say 2 or 3 gun were same - dry fired then you know which is faster heck if you wanted to go absolute mental nuts you could record both dry fire & loaded and see if rof is a massive difference in the 2 examples - my guess is perhaps 5% difference max if dry firing but might be less/more as I have never conducted the 2 differences/test

Think coz also you UKARA could be kind of linked to reg site you attend eg: TWAxxxxx - coz TWA is my reg skirmish site hence may need to do 3 shoots at same site that does the paperwork so to speak mine took a little while after my entitlement and was thinking of saying forget it but worth it now - no more 2-tone and just easier all round still crap at it - but now I'm officially crap

Yup - proper eye protection, full face btw little plinkers will be ideal, try not to go nutz buying loads of cheapo crap from JBBG, BBguns4Less, OnlyBBGuns, Geniestuff etc.... most of us have bought some of that crap at first so don't buy lots of it (still got some of this plinker crap but can't really use at sites coz you get owned by proper AEG) ya daughter obviously has seen the pink G&G guns - typical young woman knows what she wants and all that You can print out some little targets on printer, use old plastic milk bottle half filled with water keep it steady old tin can etc... - something you can hear as well as see when you hit it - no need to buy or make up very expensive/intricate targets in the end..... depending on range/accuracy of guns start off at say 30ft on a can/milk bottle but due to close range/ricochet ensure eye protection even with plinkers, to some full face protection & plinkers might seem a bit ott but better to get them respecting safety from start before they move on when/if they really get into it

get some plinkers and GOOD EYE PROTECTION seriously - even if they are just messing about with like 200fps FANTASTIC guns they can still lose an eye - you the adult must fully educate them like all parenting stuff even just target practise - you can get the odd rebound of a step/stone and come back at ya (I'll admit I may not fully protect myself when test firing a few shots in garden but that is my fault if I lose an eye) plus ya missus would do her nut as well you would feel guilty as hell - it is all your fault anyway btw little plinkers a good step up from nerf guns but also more safety, trust me at 350fps in say the back or other parts fvcking stings a bit if they hit you sometimes - mostly it is nothing major but now n then you do get a stinging reminder you are playing a much more realistic game than firing off a few nerf darts so start them off with a gun & target practise - closely supervised, see how responsible you all are and providing not too much fuss/noise you shouldn't have too many problems with neighbours (don't do this indoors - they bounce EVERYWHERE and deffo not if you like your LCD TV to still work etc.....) if they take to it - you better get in shape, my 14yr old leaves me standing and is off sprinting off all gun-ho at sites puff pant - too old for dis $hit but still a bit of fun and bonding with gun crap n stuff Oh and start working overtime too perhaps

to each their own, suppose you could create a custom plastic/wooden/glass fibre over skin shell for a DMR or sniper but in the shape of a large male reproductive organ or penis to be more accurate.... beats dildo melee kills being shot from some sniper prick far away the friggin looks you would get at sign in / chrono wtf is dat thing ??? this is a German Bell Endz 5000 LRSAR You mean LASER ??? no it stands for: Long Range Sexual Assault Rifle

Berretta arx-160 aeg dust cover slides back and stays there to adjust hop-up oh there is a button underneath.... press button - dust cover zips closed - AND FVCKING MAG FALLS OUT !!! WTF - who invented this crap, yeah thats it bb's curving very very very slightly up yeah that seems perfect now close the door as it is all set sweet - WTF ???? Or This is Gospel truth - TWA Saturday morning, youngster in late teens was saying how great his TM AK is - it just keeps going - 4yrs old, bought it off a m8 2yrs ago but it just keeps going, even though it is a bit beaten up now is a credit to TM Now we all know how not to tempt fate etc..... mid morning whilst running through village, hugging his beloved AK across his body.... fails to realise they rebuilt some of the doorway damaged by vandal's fire.... CRACK - the barrel bends at near 90 degrees before it snaps in half.... The Marshal is crying with laughter, the young guy has now a quick detatch TM in both hands everybody was talking about it and site lent him a hire gun out of pity or just for making their day I fvcking missed it coz went half day walkon that afternoon but EVERYBODY was still laughing about it Please - if you are on here please post a pic coz I missed it but my son & his team was still pi$$ing themselves about it the rest of the afternoon

yup - I can see why they are so popular, I'm happy chappy too

I got x3200 genuine and it seems to be matching my sites chrono bang on (mind you they did used to use same chrono) at weekend though I noticed a different one and reckon it was quoting a bit higher fps gun I was using was no way so close to 350 - 347 to 348 reckon it was about 339ish - hmm forgot to check that on mine new batteries & all that in ya chrono they say if you get weird figures my one can be a right fussy fvcker - if gun is not 101% straight or in centre I get TOUT the site one went nuts, fired at full auto then flicked at first switch back n forth & she went back to single shot - but 555 or something daft showed on chrono when auto ???? yeah right - so think that chrono might be a little suspect in my book Alas site chrono & marshal's word is final they say, but they are only a guide. some sites often allow a little over but not all, still I will keep an eye on readings at home & at site if they start to say my gun is too hot

ICS I think or l85 army armament for lot less if on budget think you got those 3 and it isn't any easy choice G&G does have its problems with blowback ICS - non blowback but many say is the nutz Army - cheapo version with blowback - some parts are common but a few are not well that is my noobish bit of input also available: Ares L85A2 - blowback

Both will be fine, you hitting 300fps on a m90 - kinda expected stuff if you was getting say 310+ on it then your seals n $hit are way above average so average good condition is on par with what you have atm my guess is around 345 aprox but so many variables but reckon just under 350fps if you get over 350 then I will eat my words You will never know until you try it - spring cost is minimal though if you was really paranoid then a m95 - but wouldn't be worth it buy both - fitt tbb and if you are @ 315 you should be fine to use m100 spring or wait a while until she drops to 310 to fit spring or next gearbox overhaul blah blah blah

We could all be wrong, and in the end it don't matter really They will make a killing no doubt and like many things..... If somebody bought it, and they like it - who really gives a fvck what others think I'm sure we have all bought stuff that others think is $hit but we liked/enjoyed it happy gaming - what ever you enjoy, even minecraft ffs I guess

the saying: if it ain't broke - don't try to fix it comes to mind - see how she performs and tinker with it ONLY if you realy need to (and feel confident about it too)

http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/22926-willburnett/ took about a week to arrive - not exactly pronto, was gonna contact him but then it turned up as described, some on here like straffham ship stuff really bloomin' fast I myself have dragged my heels a bit a few times over the years see if anything turns up monday is all I can say

Yeah I think I got the exact same model too, maybe if I go back yonks ago I suppose I could call some other guns that fired stuff out the end - my first airsoft but on the whole it has all moved on so much now..... Suppose SRC M4 RIS or ICS M4A1 were my first "proper" airsoft guns that hit 300fps so speak The others were just cheap old things or toys that looked like they were trying to emulate being called a proper IF (funny that - they still Immitations but just better or proper looking ones - still toy guns but better toy guns in the end)

Battery - 8.4 or 9.6 nimh or 7.4v lipo are your 3 main options with 9.9v life or 11.1 lipo if you wanna cane her you got crane so need stick/nunchuk battery unless you change stock so depends if you already got a charger or wanna go down lipo route just yet your hop-up & tbb options - first off see how she fires out of box and run her in etc.... see what she chrono's at but really fire off a hundred shots in ya garden if possible to set her up n check groupings if you got a couple mags already then you are pretty much set, I reckon it is a £125 gun - a good one but just see how you go, they are all pretty decent out of box but plenty options to look into later if needed I'm not gonna go too mad but if you need I will measure battery space size/thickness in crane stock if really need to

Bulldogs are not sealed - blasters yup but many others are not sealed Some places sell bags that are not crimped or welded/heat sealed and I have wondered - yeah are they the genuine articles in there or any old crap you can find to refill empty tubs/bottles plus there is always the thought of them sourcing stuff from other places if usual supplier runs low, happens in many things that the original supplier can change from time to time but I guess I am a little paranoid sometimes - well most of time think perhaps for peace of mind I like to buy in sealed bags of 4 or 5k and kinda think they are what they say they are