Lozart

If it's not fit for purpose then you shouldn't have to pay return postage. I hear you on the lack of confidence though. I'll buy any old crap online but I much prefer to handle guns and stuff in the flesh so to speak. Unless there's a crap ton of money to be saved buying off t'web then I'd rather be able to look the guy in the eye and say "hang on, this thing feckin rattles, get me another".

Have a look on ebay. Plenty of stuff there for not a lot.

Send it back. You shouldn't have to put up with this kind of thing when you pay that much for a brand new gun.

Even a gas rifle won't have so much recoil you need to hold your gun like that. It may be a lot for airsoft but in real terms it's never going to be anywhere near a real firearm.

300? Amateur! It's come from a real steel shooting technique designed to help with controlling recoil but it's just fashion/dumbassery in airsoft.

You don't have to hold them that way though. Unless you're actually Chris Costa. Then it's the law.

Depends on the gun and the sight. V12s are less bulky than most so that might be an easier choice. The Bolle ones are used by SF and regular forces so they should be fine depending on whether or not you intend to use lower face protection as well (which will make more of a difference to how easily you can get your eye lined up with your sights).

The problem with someone saying Goggle 'X' is or isn't comfortable is that everyones face is a different shape. What may be fine for you could be hideously uncomfortable for others. I would personally suggest either something like the ESS V12 Advancer goggles or something more like the Bolle X1000/X800 range which have a thicker foam seal which should conform more easily to your face. Boogie regulators were only really designed as jump goggles for parachuting anyway so they're designed to be very low profile which isn't always conducive to comfort.

+1 on Sennheisers. Never had a pair I didn't like! On the CTS front though, having had both hands operated on I would say harass your GP into making him do something about it. I'm fortunate enough to have medical insurance through work so I went private for mine. Serious CTS is horrible though, I wouldn't wish it on anyone. Have you tried night splints? Helped me quite a bit.

It may just be the angle of the picture, but the piston looks pissed to me...

There seems to be two very distinct schools of thought on Dytacs. The first (which seem to mostly be early production batches) suggests that the gearbox is made of cheese and will explode on contact. The second (predominantly owners of later production models) have had no issues whatsoever. Their guns are accurate and reliable (I have a couple of friends that fall into the latter category). Personally I've found them to be fairly well built although some do have fit issues between upper and lower receivers. Combat Series models which are the cheaper ones have the exact same internals but cheaper, generic rail systems etc. The ones I've personally had direct experience with have been well put together but the hydrodipped finish doesn't need much encouragement to fall off (moral of the story - get a black one). I liked them, decent rate of fire and range. I'd have one. Land Warrior have been selling them cheapest but will not help with after sales support. Socom Tactical WILL service the guns and offer post sales support but charge more for the gun in the first place. There is some suggestion that the LWA pricing is a deliberate maneuvre to piss off the guys that run Socom Tactical but how much of that is true remains conjecture and potentially libelous so I'll just leave that there.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/133309454114/?fref=ts join us.

Why? What makes you think that? As long as the connections are reasonably watertight the battery itself is not significantly different to any other.

HEATHEEEEEEEENNNN!!!!! BURN HIM! But yeah, Guy Fawkes? Terrorist. And a rubbish one, got caught and completely failed to blow up anything.

One of my colleagues had this but he has recovered now. Here's to a speedy recovery!

Good friend of mine has one and he swears by it.

Or you could just get the standard stock one http://www.zerooneairsoft.com/product_info.php?cPath=268_318_403&products_id=8791 and change it to a crane stock later. It's a piece of piss to change.

http://www.componentshop.co.uk/7-4v-1450mah-cranestock-battery.html Anything listed as a "crane stock" or "nunchuck" style battery should fit. I can't tell you for definite if it'll fit your gun or even if that gun is front or rear wired. As for who has it in stock have you tried actually calling PAS? Their website isn't always entirely up to date.

If you're going to do STALKER then you may as well do one of the cool loadouts:

A 1200-1400mAh LiPo should last you all day if you're not going mad, a 2200-2600mAh will definitely do all day. Crane stock batteries are only really needed if your battery is in the stock of your gun, or need to split either side of your barrel (if wired to the front).

Yes it'll work but I would get this one with the mains power supply as suggested: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Digital-IMAX-B6AC-Balancing-Charger300mAh/dp/B00GGBC8WA/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=110K6RB0W147JS818B76

Hardwired. Plug and play doesn't protect the trigger contacts or give you the Active Braking benefits.

Componentshop.co.uk for batteries, amazon for an imax b6 charger. Make sure you get the one with a mains lead not just a 12v supply.

8.4v mini is the standard NiMh type battery most guns come with. They're cheap and easy to source for manufacturers and they'll do fine for most people. A 7.4v LiPo battery will give a higher current output which results in a better trigger response. This is a nice to have and by no means absolutely necessary as it does mean potentially having to buy a new charger. An 11.1v LiPo or indeed a 9.6v NiMh will give higher still current and may necessitate the fitting of a Mosfet to prevent damage to the trigger contacts. If you want a cheap and easy upgrade to your performance then a 7.4v LiPo will do you no harm at all.