proffrink
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Posts posted by proffrink
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Chuck them in the bag until next time. They dont need any special storage.
This is probably the deal for most people. I know I get a lot of condensation here so I'm careful with some of my guns and gear so they don't go rusty of mouldy. For the cost of a few bags of silica gel I see it as worth it, but if you're in a house with decent insulation then yeh just put them anywhere. They're obviously designed to mitigate against the cold and damp anyway.
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Alright, but you'll be in jail with him if they can prove prior intent (which your posts help a great deal in doing).
Kurtz has explained it much better than I could though.
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Yeh, I do exactly what you've said: Put them in an ammo tin with a bag of silica gel. The biggest problem I've had is the striker cap falling off some of the cheaper brands whilst I've been running or taking them out/putting them into pouches.
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Posting about how you'd 'put down' a burglar with an airgun on a public forum is not a clever idea.
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I've had some replies and it seems the cheapest we're going to get is £1.50 - I believe this also covers postage, so that's now the new price.
We've already hit 110, so I'll send out payment details now but I should make it absolutely clear that I don't expect anyone to have to pay until February 10th (will make the order on the 11th so there's plenty of time in case there's an issue).
If anyone else wants some then just PM me by then.
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Thanks for the input guys (and maybe girls).
I am also not one for aesthetics and just want a quiet, quick release mag holder. I would use the bungie mag holders (pouches) but i was concerned they would be slower compared to the polymer ones; and as I play quick paced cqb, mag change times are vital.
As always with airsoft, there is so much choice and it might be a case of trying out a few options to find the best option for me.
They are absolutely slower. I've used both for extended periods. If you've got a dump pouch and aren't replacing the magazines when you switch then the difference is negligible (but still slightly better with fastmags). If not they win every time.
I like open top pouches and bungees, but the fastmags are - as you'd imagine - designed for speed. They're also not loud at all (certainly not louder than say a footstep on concrete would be).
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I'll show you when you get your scope. PM me.
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It is man. I was kind of interested in people using the US as a justification for shooting people with BB guns, but we should really try to avoid politics in our toy guns forum.
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I can assure you bungees are not as quick as fastmags because you do still need to move the bungee out of the way (whereas with the fastmags it's just friction-based retention. I do use bungee ones these days as I prefer them for their versatilely when it comes to heavier magazines, but faster they are not. Also, very minimal noise - certainly not comparable to Velcro.
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Nope. Maybe you misunderstood - there's a collar that sits infront of the objective (you can remove it by using a flathead screwdriver very carefully to apply torque). On mine there was a flat o-ring/gasket that allowed me to place the plastic straight on there without it touching the objective (you absolutely do not want the plastic touching your objective lens or all that energy will go straight through it and onto the very tip of the objective). If there's no o-ring or rubber to offset it like there was in mine then just buy one.
The collar otherwise seems pointless. It doesn't actually hold the objective in (which appears to be glued). I can only assume it's a failsafe for if the glue fails.
If you have any trouble then let me know via PM. It's not too tricky.
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You won't find a killflash that fits that scope unfortunately. Believe me, I've tried. Also, once they get shot they get distorted and then won't really stop another BB if it hits the same area - it's kind of like mesh, but on larger optics the honeycomb is larger so as to allow more light in for a better quality picture. This means the gaps between are sometimes as large as 3-4mm anyway, so there's not a massive amount of metal (making them kind of a bit weak).
Yeh, I don't think you need it for the ocular lens unless you get shot in the back a lot. I think I actually got 2mm thick ones in the end, rather than 3. They were 45mm across. Should cost you about £2-3 for 5 of them.
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Thanks bud, thats helpful. I am just running plastic Ares mid-caps ( for a a AEG Krytac) so the FMA ones sound fine.
Is this the product you are referring to?
Those are the ones, but I got mine for about £12 a year back. Try AliExpress and others maybe?
If it's going to be £16 then you might as well go with what Jedi said: The WAS ones.
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They work, but those are ridiculously expensive. Look for the FMA ones. Don't use with heavy GBBR magazines as they can't clamp hard enough (for AEG magazines they're great). I also found that though the rear fastmag is 3-molle high, the front one (that the FMA ones come with) is only 2 high and is prone to leaning forward if it's not attached to another fastmag. Probably not an issue at all with AEG magazines (I was using very heavy GBBR magazines) but thought it worth a mention.
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Like Esoteric said: The L86 ('long barrel L85') was designed as an LSW (light support weapon), but was superseded by the M249/L110/Minimi and the 5.56 it fires couldn't pack enough of a punch or go far enough (even with such a long barrel) for it to be truly utilised in Afghanistan as a designated marksman rifle so the L129 was brought in to replace it in that role too. That handle on the back was intended to be used from a prone position.
Basically it's all but obsolete these days.
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Depends on the gun and the gas, but it doesn't perform as well as high pressure air or CO2 in the cold. This is really something you should search forums for though as 'cooldown' (the effect of rapidly cooling magazines as the gas within them escapes) between different guns as well as their contraction in cool weathers is well documented. In short though, cold weather can play hell with any gas blow back gun that runs on green gas (i.e. propane with some additives that you see sold at many sites, used by players to charge their pistol magazines etc.). Many guns are better at dealing with this than others, but none are perfect and that's why we're seeing a major move over to high pressure air (HPA) in the UK right now, because it works all year round (though the initial cost is quite high).
Don't get a GBBR as your first gun. You absolutely will regret the costs that it brings and the knowledge that you'll need to fix things when the go wrong. An AEG works well in all environments above sub-zero and is a good fall-back to have as a beginner (as well as generally being cheaper than GBBRs). I'd always recommend a well-branded M4, AK, MP5 etc. AEG as a gun to start with and then build from there. That way if something goes wrong then you can still play.
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This comes up one a month, but 3mm perspex insert infront of the objective and behind the unscrew-able collar. Have one in that very same scope you just bought and you wouldn't even be able to tell that it's there.
This guy will cut any size you like: http://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/bobbyboy0177 I can look up the one I put in my scope if you're interested.
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Depends on barrel length, bore, airseal and a whole lot of other tiny variables (including the brand of spring as not every company uses the same standard) but as a guesstimate it'll be an M100, yeh. Most hit between 330-360.
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That's the rail with the weird intervals. I'd recommend the Action Army one that doesn't. Also, you'll get charged a fortune to ship it from eHobby.
As for the rings: Try and find them on AliExpress or DHGate as they'll be cheaper. Also I'm not sure if getting a cheap QD is a good idea as it may rattle or move a little. Just go for some nice fixed mounts.
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Thanks proffrink.
Btw, what scope rings did you use? Also, was there a particular website you got your rail from? If you needed a rail..
I'd need to buy a scope ring that fitted the scope, and for the scope ring to fit a 20mm rail, then try to find a 20mm rail.
I have an all-in-one scope mount with QD base thing from Ebairsoft, but any 20mm ones will do really. Go on AliExpress or DHGate if you're not in a hurry and just find some that you like the look of.
Rail wise I picked up an Action Army VSR one from I think Action Hobbies. The G-Spec has weird intervals between the rings, which isn't a problem if you have two independent scope rings, but is a problem if they're fixed to a QD-mount type design like I have.
Do you have a rail or did you buy the regular VSR? Not sure if the regular VSR has holes for rail fittings, but I'm sure that you can see if you do.
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There are a handful of very famous wrongful executions in the UK that did a great deal in bringing about our abolishment of the death penalty. I think Wikipedia has a short record of each and they're a rather good read. In the US 'at least 39 executions are claimed to have been carried out in the U.S. in the face of evidence of innocence or serious doubt about guilt'. The point of death row is for a long and drawn out appeals process where due diligence must be done at every level of court. Getting rid of that isn't an option at all with our current legal system, so you're still looking at a lot of litigation and possibly years of having that criminal in prison before they can be killed.
It's the old conundrum of do you let 9 guilt people go free to save 1 innocent? I'd say yes, but it's a moral dilemma more than a fiscal one. Fortunately it's one that's interwoven into many legal systems (including our own), where you do have the right to appeal to a higher court (and if you look to the US then you see this happening a lot).
It should also be noted that approximately half of any inmates at any one time are serving sentences of less than 6 months - that's where the real overcrowding happens in my opinion: We have ample resources to keep dangerous people behind bars, but putting people away for dumb things like shoplifting or petty theft? It's expensive, and there are proven studies done in Scandinavian countries that prove bringing rates of re-offending can be done pro-actively. These countries didn't get to be some of the safest on the planet through executing 10% of their prison population - they've been playing the long game and addressed causation rather than just reacting to short-term issues.
Quick release mags/holdders
in Guns, Gear & Loadouts
Posted
They will, because reinserting the magazines is more failsafe - believe me, I've tried extensively. Because there's no textile flapping around, there's zero chance of getting a corner caught when re-inserting it without it being immediately obvious. Again though, this difference becomes basically nil when you factor in a dump pouch (which one should probably use in CQB).
I know a lot of people like to say 'all the gear no idea' etc. but the truth is both matter to an extent in any scenario. Sure if you're a complete idiot then plastic retention pouches make no difference when you're fumbling about anyway, but we're assuming OP knows what's up already and so these are absolutely the quickest option if you know what you're doing. The Taco would do the same job, but then the design is nearly identical in concept - plastic friction retention but with some fabric covering the front and back sides. There are a few clones, but the fastmag is such a simple design that the FMA clones are very good (and for £14 for two, very cheap). Another alternative is simple M4 pouch retention inserts like these. They're all the same conceptually.
Again though, I'd never use them because for woodland I'd prefer to be sure my magazines aren't flying everywhere and that they're going to stay in place when I lie down. I'm with you on using bungee most of the time, and even in CQB I'd probably go with them too (having sold almost all my fastmags anyway).
I'm not sure where you're getting this 'noisy' thing from? It's not like the fart of Velcro in the middle of a forest, we're talking CQB here - there are people shooting, shouting, AEGs whirring and noisy footsteps; they absolutely aren't going to be able to compete with that. Not to mention that they're dampened by the huge elastic bands wrapped around them and that one side is cushioned by the rest of your molle anyway.