proffrink

Exactly that: UKARA just makes it easy for retailers. I thought this thread was about VCRA though? Does anyone with half a brain cell think UKARA is rubbish anyway? It's just making the best of the poorly written bits of the 2007 amendment. It amazes me that people still lump the two in together a lot of the time.

Not really. It's about intent - legally it's not as simple as just bartering without money, but in practice this whole thing is silly anyway so I can't see why not.

Yes, you are. We're a common law country so until there's legal precedent most new laws stay somewhat grey anyway. In the case of VCRA though RIFs were tacked on as an afterthought and don't even take up one quarter of a page. Just don't be stupid and you'll be fine. Remember, the court had to prove you bought it for the purposes of wanting it for some reason other than 2 a) or . The whole thing is basically just to give additional persecutory powers for people holding up post offices with toy guns.

Don't do that Just flat hop or R-hop surely.

I say send the £80 to proffrink. I hear he does good R-hop work.

I mean I know it's obvious and I know you already own a Hi-Capa so sorry for saying this but firstly: Are you holding the magazine upside down when you fill it? Secondly, are you aware that TM guns don't have a silent fill valve and that the gas will escape a fair bit as you fill it? Further to the second question: Are you absolutely sure that all the gas is escaping from the magazine and isn't just spurting up around the fill valve a little as is the design of the TM pistol magazines? Have you filled it for a good 3 seconds, left it to stand for 30 seconds, then pressed the output valve to see if there's any left in there? If we've ruled those out then the first thing I'd do is make sure the threads of the fill valve aren't the problem. Use some Teflon/PTFE tape and do two/three wraps around the threads of the fill valve itself (remove it using a flat head screwdriver) before reinserting. You should also apply lube to the o-ring that sits on the fill valve exterior too. Do the same test as above once this is complete. If that's still not fixed the issue for you then lubing your fill valve on a TM gun is done by removing it once more and then unscrewing the two parts of the fill valve where there's a small visible join along the cylinder that protrudes into the magazine. In there you'll find a very small o-ring and a small spring. Take the o-rings out and leave in silicone over night to soak (spray them a good few times and leave them in the cap or something) before reassembling. You should also soak the exterior o-ring that was mentioned above. Again, do the same test in the morning/afternoon of tomorrow. If that's still not working then buy a rebuild kit and replace the exterior o-rings with new ones: http://www.leesprecision.com/collections/frontpage/products/o-ring-repair-kit-for-tokyo-marui-pistol-magazines If that's not working then you need to buy new fill valves.

Is it new? Return the magazines. Any idea where the gas is venting from? Where you fill it or closer to the top? Get a bowl of water, fill it, then drop the magazine in it after you've filled it and observe where the bubbles are if you're having trouble locating the leak. Sounds like you're using Nuprol 3. Should be fine to use.

Yeh, they're pretty good.

Yeh, just email or phone them (the retailer, that is). Check out this thread: http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/29923-changeing-address-on-my-ukara/

I know they don't always cover airsoft-related sales. LWA said it wasn't a joke though. I'ma email PayPal.

I've known of some groups like the GearTech one getting banned the unbanned on appeal. I'm fairly certain groups/pages get permanently closed without an appeal though.

However, it's up the the retailer to accept that or not. Some will; some won't. Second hand sales a lot of people will accept pictures of you playing, but larger retailers usually will only do UKARA simply because it's marginally more foolproof for them and easier to check. Thing is there's still no legal precedent and the law is grey so just have yourself covered. I've not held a current UKARA number for years now but I always pay in advance for any sites I attend if possible so that I have a receipt. Doesn't make it any easier for buying through retailers but I almost exclusively buy second hand anyway.

I hate to be that guy, but UKARA is not the only defence available. You'd be completely fine with respraying it so long as you have proof of being an airsoft player - this can be receipts, site membership or even just documentation of you playing (such as photos with you in them) etc.

Airsoft Peak have money off Big Dragon products. Wouldn't rate much of their stuff, but their suppressors are actually pretty good if you're looking for one: http://www.airsoftpeak.com/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=Big+Dragon&x=20&y=20&sort=sd

He nose what he's doing

This thread is under construction. Probably worth reading, but it's not comprehensive. Welcome to the High Pressure Air (HPA) FAQ. Here we'll be covering the basics of what HPA is, what it's advantages are, how to find out if HPA is for you and how to shop for HPA products. If you're wondering about getting into HPA for airsoft then please read the entire FAQ before asking questions - this will save yourself and other forum members a lot of time and effort. At the bottom of this post you will see when the FAQ was last updated. What is 'High Pressure Air' (HPA)? Introduction In a nutshell, HPA works through the controlled release of compressed air. In an AEG you can expect a gearbox to actuate a piston which in turn compresses air that's released down the barrel to project your BB. In a green gas, duster or CO2 airsoft gun this gas is stored in a compressed state within a vessel and expelled down the barrel to project your BB. In a spring airsoft gun the potential is stored in a spring that actuates a piston, compresses the air inside the cylinder that's in turn pushed down the barrel to project your BB. In HPA the concepts are very much the same: Like green gas, duster or CO2 the gas is stored pre-compressed and many pneumatic HPA engines function very similarly to gas blow back rifles - indeed, in many cases HPA can be used to power a lot of existing GBB and GBBRs (more on that later). Table of contents 1. Power sources 2. Your HPA 'rig' 3. 'Kits'/'Engines', 'Guns' and 'HPA Tapped' 1. Power sources To understand what HPA is, you must first know how 99% of guns in airsoft are powered so that you know what HPA is not: Electric AEGs (Automatic Electric Gun) AEPs (Automatic Electric Pistols) Green gas, duster and CO2 GBB or GBBPs (Gas Blow Back pistols) GBBRs (Gas Blow Back rifles) NBB (Non Blow Back) Spring HPA Electric solenoid engine Pneumatic engine 2. Your HPA 'rig' As we've already covered, HPA is compressed air that's released in a controlled fashion to propel your BB. Think of it as the power source for your gun, but not what's inside the gun itself. It's akin to a battery (like an AEG) or a magazine full of green/duster gas (GBBP/GBBR). A typical HPA rig (i.e. all the functional exterior parts that a user needs to combine for their HPA powered gun to work) is comprised of three separate parts: The 'bottle', the 'regulator' and the 'line'. Not all HPA setups work with identical rigs, but this will become apparent later. For now, here's a nice picture of a typical HPA rig: Bottle This is where the air is store in a highly compressed state. There are two different types of bottles that you can buy, rated for two different pressures: 3000 psi (pounds per square inch) (206 bar) and 4500 psi (310 bar). 3000 psi bottles tend to be made from aluminium whilst 4500 psi bottles are almost always made from carbon fibre. Generally the shape of a bottle gives away its pressure rating as the more rounded corners of the 4500 psi bottles have a distinctive silhouette versus the more square edges of a 3000 psi bottle. Airsoft HPA bottles are identical to paintball HPA bottles. Every tank also has a 'bottle regulator' that comes with the bottle and steps down the output of the bottle so that the actual regulator can deal with the incoming flow. This generates some complex issues that will be revealed later on as some bottles output at what is called 'Super Low Pressure' (SLP) (approximately 300 psi) whilst the rest tend to output from 450 psi to 950 psi. Different regulators work with different input pressures, so not all are happy with receiving the lower pressures from SLP bottle regulators. Bottle size is measured in ci (cubic inches). Bottles range from 13ci to 100ci, though most bottles sit around the 40ci to 70ci mark. Obviously a bottle at 4500 psi will go for longer than a 3000 psi bottle of the same size/internal volume. The bottle regulator also has three key features: The first is that it has an interface with what is called the ASA on the regulator or line (if you're using a 3000 psi rated line) - these threads on the top of the regulator also have one of two seals at the top to ensure a proper air-tight system. The second feature is refilling: A standard paintball fill nipple is present on most regulators and can interact with the machines in paintball and dive shops as well as with 'fill stations' (more on fill stations later). The third and final feature of most good bottle regulators is burst disks: Burst disks are a key safety feature that allow the tank to do an emergency, controlled venting of air if it's overfilled or there's a failure in the bottle regulator causing too high a pressure to be sent to the rest of the HPA system. HP burst disk: A higher rated burst disk that blows if the tank is overfilled. 3000 psi and 4500 psi tanks tend to use 5000 psi and 7500 psi HP burst disks respectively. LP burst disk: A lower rated burst disk that blows if the tank is outputting a pressure higher than it should be that would otherwise damage your gun or regulator. In both cases the burst disks aims to safely vent the air rather than the tank or entire hpa rig just continuing to fill with air that it's not built to handle and exploding. Click the spoiler to see some pictures of bottles and bottle regulators Regulator The regulator has two main functions: To further step down the pressure of the air to a usable psi and to do so in a way that means - during intense use - the gun doesn't get 'starved' for air. This latter point is sometimes called 'refresh'. Regulators with a higher refresh rate are more desirable as they can power air-hungry guns that would be otherwise starved by lower refresh rates. The regulator also acts as a hub for the line. Some regulators only have one possible output, whilst others have many. Some have the capacity for QDs (quick disconnects) which allow the user to rapidly disconnect the line for freedom of movement or modularity without compromising the pressure inside the regulator. Almost all HPA rigs have one or two QDs (usually one at each end of the line). Most regulators are easily adjustable between a range of outputs. This varies depending on the make of the regulator, but most airsoft regulators are designed to work between 30 psi to 160 psi. Click the spoiler to see some pictures of regulators Line The line is an air hose that connects the gun to the regulator. These come in many different forms, but most are between 24" (50cm) to 46" (116cm) long and have varying inner diameters between 3mm to 6mm. Most airsoft lines are rated for use up to 200 psi though some can handle up to 3000 psi. This is because some guns use an internal regulator and so the air hasn't been de-pressurised. More on this later. Some lines are coiled, some are braided and others are just normal looking rubber tubing. The most typical airsoft line will be 36" (91cm) long, have an inner diameter of 6mm, can withstand up to 200 psi and will be braided. Click the spoiler to see some pictures of lines 3. 'Kits'/'Engines', 'Guns' and 'HPA Tapped' Now that you know how HPA is 'powered', you must understand what this means on the gun side. How do we turn that air into propulsion for the BB? The following table of brands/products is more of a glossary to help you understand what people are talking about when they refer to the various HPA setups and we'll go into each one next. Note that 'Kits' and 'Engines' tend to be interchangeable vocabulary in most settings: Kits/Engines Electric solenoid Wolverine (Inferno, Hydra, Bolt etc.) Polarstar (F1, F2, Fusion etc.) ProTech (Mk1, Mk2 etc.) Fully pneumatic Daytona Gun Escort Sun Project 'Guns' Tippmann 'HPA Tapped' Due to the nature of this category, there are no specific brands/products related to it but we'll come to that You may remember in section 1. seeing 'electric solenoid' and 'fully pneumatic'. These are generally both referred to as 'conversion kits', 'engines' or simply 'kits' as both are drop-in replacements that require a 'donor gun' (i.e. an existing AEG or GBBR that one strips out and replaces the internals of) whereas 'guns' I'm here using to encompass the Tippmann M4 as - at the time of writing - it's the only HPA-specific gun that requires no additional modification to run on HPA. It has some rather specific quirks as well so I've given it its own section.

Get a couple of decent cloths. Isopropyl alcohol for cleaning stubborn stuff and clean the barrel once every 3 months. This is a very well documented question though and is a good example of why you should use the search before asking as it's asked every month or so. You'll get much quicker and better answers if you look by yourself first, then fill in the gaps later through asking. http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/28054-cleaning-with-isopropyl-alcohol-vs-silicone/ covers everything in depth. As above though: Clean with isopropyl alcohol (kitchen towel is just as good as buying the pre-packaged alcohol wipes, but a lot cheaper) Use a cleaning rod Try not to get too close to the bucking (though you may want to do one run over it just to remove any lube that's made its way down your barrel from the gearbox (AEG) or gas in the magazine (GBB) Finish up with a swab of silicone to keep the barrel slick and to make BB fragments not stick as easily to the inside of the barrel Do not get lube on your bucking - best practice is to make markings on your cleaning rod so that you know exactly where to stop I guess to answer your question: 1lt of isopropyl alcohol (around £6-8 on eBay) or a pack of alcohol cleaning wipes, some kitchen towel, cleaning/unjamming rod for barrels. For everything else a couple of rags and a couple of lint-free cloths too. Lube wise I use silicone or Frog Lube - some recommend just silicone, some recommend nothing and some recommend other branded stuff. There's no particular consensus on this but don't buy something with loads of additives as it'll rot the seals in your gun (less of an issue with AEGs, but more of an issue with GBBs).

The software IT departments install just blanket ban certain terms etc. and have blacklists compiled by the company that makes the software - rarely do the IT guys themselves block something.

Loads of places that sell Revision fan goggles so keep looking

They are usually rated properly but check. However, they charge a lot for shipping so I'd keep looking if I were you.

Remember: Free shipping on PDI stuff from X-fire.org ends in two days just in case you go that route

This, but I'm in a marginally good mood What's 'JC'? Jesus Christ? Joule Creep? Just Cause? No, you need to look into upgrading the hop unit and bucking properly. Sooo much information out there on this for VSRs and I won't spoonfeed it. Even if I did, there are many avenues you can go down that I've never eveven tried, let alone have a somewhat informed opinion on. Grub screw replaces where the pressure gauge would be. Simple as that, but without it you'll not be able to pressurise the regulator. Please read my thread on how to fit the regulator as it's not just as straight forward as throwing it into the stock. For one you need more flexible macro line really.

Like Hudson says: Don't bother. If the PTFE/Teflon tape and floss don't get you a good airseal then maybe consider a new hop unit. Until then, try those options.

Barrel length means next to nothing in airsoft. Surely you know this by now Buy a good quality 6.03 - 6.05. PDI, ORGA, EdGI; or Prometheus if the budget isn't there. If not then buy 10mm pipe cleaners and Brasso and polish the barrel yourself with a rotary tool or drill. Won't be as good as a properly milled barrel but hey. The SDiK replaces your power source: You will still need to work on your hop unit and barrel as that's where the repeatable shot groupings come from. The Action Army hop up unit gets very good reviews these days, but the Airsoft Pro one seems alright too. Avoid the PDI hop unit as it's not brilliant. Apart from that: Barrel spacers. PDI have free shipping for another two days so pick up some of those in a separate order and as it comes to below £12 you won't be charged VAT. Order your barrel and any other expensive stuff in a second order if you choose to do so. PDI also make a really nice suppressor adapter which you can also put in another separate order. Also, spares for the SDiK: Seals for the regulator and SDiK itself. Consider a tournament lock too if your site is a bit weird about CO2. Finally: Spare regulator grub screw if you want to mod the regulator to fit inside the stock. Ask Mancraft for one and say you mean to remove the pressure gauge to add it - they will know what you mean and will chuck one in for free.

Sounds like the more reasonable idea. If you're an engineer then you would easily be able to fit it yourself though - they're not hard to do, but do take TNK Guns at least 4 hours each. Considering their real steel gunsmithing clocks in at $75 per hour, they make a loss on every kit installation really so you can see why they charge so much. Frankly, companies like Madbull make good licensed replicas of most of the popular rail systems - for example. These can come in at a fraction of the cost of the real thing and are obviously a lot easier to get. https://www.davescustomairsoft.co.uk/ is good for real steel stuff sometimes though. I don't buy much of the real stuff because I don't see the value for the fractions of an ounce that are shaved off the weight due to the more expensive materials. I wouldn't go too ham on getting externals down though until the internals are what you want. I know this is obvious, but the more time you spend looking (and I'm sure you've spent plenty already) the more likely you'll be to make the right choice down the line. The Tippmann is compatible with some real steel stuff: The buffer tube is AR civilian spec (milspec stocks will rattle a little) and the receiver threading for a rail is AEG-spec (so you'd need the rethread for milspec, which may not end too well as the receivers are made from cheap alloy). Again though, licensed AEG-spec rails look nearly identical to the real thing, so this is an area that I think need serious consideration. Problem with importing a lot of US RS parts is not only VAT, but also their own export laws restricting sales to most countries. You have to have the proper paperwork and connections to buy a lot of the good brands at wholesale prices. Daytona spares are sold at cost, so I only do it as a service to my fellow DGers in the EU and UK. I really think it should be more popular than it is, but to an extent TNK Guns don't actually want it to be. They really only want GBB/HPA enthusiasts buying it because they don't have the infrastructure to deal with people buying them who don't have a baseline of technical know-how to maintain them properly. Their target market isn't the new user or the masses who've flocked to the HPA electric solenoid engines (Polarstar, Wolvering etc.) or those looking for a quicker and more affordable solution like Tippmann provides. This isn't to say you can't get into it as someone who's new to the platform (my DG was my first HPA gun), but it's small market despite being around since 2011 so that's why I wanted to make getting some more common spares a little easier for us. I would say that TNK Guns will fit RS parts for you if you send it all to them during the build process. Not sure how much they charge, but one would hope the rate is lower than their actual gunsmithing.