This post should go in the 'guns that need to be made' thread, but you'll see why i put it here soon enough...
1st the gun: Martini-Henry Short Chamber .577/450 MK IV
This needs to be made to run on 12g CO2 bulbs fitted in the stock, firing single BB's from imitation Boxer-Henry Cartridges, 1 per ejectable brass cartridge, and a massive rubber sword bayonet... Need a revolver too. I dont think the Webley officer's one was correct for the 1880's, so whatever monster they were using back then. On to the loadout...
...because, apart from a pirate loadout, what else could i wear looking like this?
So I finally got round to finishing my ergonomic grip for USP project. I actually finished making the grip addition yonks ago, but it wouldn't allow me to use a SERPA. Grinding a bit off the outside SERPA flap has sorted that...
When I 1st finished it I was majorly underwhelmed. During the sculpting process I had made it completely smooth and it had turned out looking very professional, but then I decided that it would function better with a textured surface. I tried a few options for scoring it, but couldn't get anything to look right. I went with using a posidrive to make rows of cross-dimples, thinking I would be able to make them very neat... well, as you can see, that didn't actually pan out so well. Trouble is by then, if I had wanted to change it, I'd have pretty much had to start over. TBH that is what I should have done I could have used rough sand paper to squeeze into a smooth surface for textured panels, leaving the bits which this could not do neatly, the ridge details, smooth. Ho hum...
I had been considering throwing it away and making another, but looking at it now I think it is sorta cool though. Pig ugly, but cool! Functionally it is excellent. It fits my hand exactly. It puts the pad of my trigger finger exactly on the trigger, so squeezing it pulls straight back, there is no under or over reach pushing or pulling L<=>R on my aim. Because it is shaped from my hand holding it arm extended aiming, it is not possible for me to hold it in any other way - as soon as I grip it and extend my arm, the sights are lined up to my right eye so it is only the elevation I need to correct before pulling the trigger.
The method is simple: wrap the pistol grip in no more than 2 layers of clingfilm; kneed the FIMO until it is uniformly warm and pliable; pack it in rough shapes onto the film; (using washed and talcum'd hands) squeeze; remove excess and bulk up the ridges which your grip naturally forms between your bones; squeeze again and aim; rinse and repeat until you have it. Bear in mind that it is the ridges digging in to the underside of your knuckles and the bit on the opposite side which the heel of your thumb presses against which form the perfect aim, but for comfort you need to use enough bulk that the bit in between, where the centre of your palm goes, makes solid contact. I did this by extending the ridges further back than just squeezing the FIMO produces - it looks waaay better like that when it is smooth too! Also note that the top (above that decorative circle/hole/majig) forms a ridge to keep your trigger finger exactly in place.
Once you have it sussed, leave it in the fridge for a few hours to take some of the pliability out of it, slice the cling film and carefully slide the lot off the pistol grip. If you have made it as 'wraparound' as i have here, it will not come off without a little bending, which obviously runs the risk of warping the whole thing; chilled FIMO does have a small amount of springiness to it however and you just have to be careful that you have the formed shape imprinted in your minds eye so that as you proceed you notice if it does bend beyond its elastic limit and by how much. You also need to find something ceramic, stone or metal to rest it on while you bake it. I used a stainless steel grill-pan handle resting on a piece of stone from the garden; this meant that the thumb-heel part rested lightly against the baking tray, but none of the FIMO's own weight had a tendency to bend it during the initial stage of the bake.
TBH I've forgotten what temp and for how long, but I do remember being worried that my gas fan oven might not be able to work cold enough! I did open the oven door a couple of times to let some warmth out, just in case. Anyway there are loads of tutorials online. My advice is to err on the side of caution. If it doesn't quite work 1st time you can always bake it again, but if you over do it, any thinner bits near the edges will go crispy, brittle, and come off in use (that happened to a couple of ridge ends when I did one for my SVD - although TBF the design for that wasn't as robust as this anyway). Don't forget to remove the clingfilm before baking
The final attachment was done with Evo Stik, but Araldite, UHU, Bostik or any decent impact adhesive which remains flexible would do the trick - you can see in the last pic how successful I was at baking this one so it kept the intended shape, ie very: there are no gaps where those ridge ends curl around the grip, which would be the most obvious place for a fuck up to manifest, but nevertheless it did not come out of the oven as perfect as when it was sculpted on the clingfilm - there are a couple of <0.5mm gaps above that circle/hole/majig decoration and where that part squidges inside the trigger guard, so flexible glue is the way forward.
I've now come to realise your all commenting on a signature that I can't see on my phone. I thought you were all going mental as I can only see a photo of the m27
Infraction means you broke the forum rules, not that you were banned - the ZeroIn forum is paid for by Z1 Airsoft, so they don't want their competitors mentioned.
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