jcheeseright

The rotating barrel of blanks built into the grenade so you don't need to faff about re-priming it in game, absolute genius, could be done fairly simply for an impact design too. For a timed grenade it'd be a much bigger challenge though.

Just get your ukara number put on the outside of the box, it'll be charged VAT and duty but it'll still work out cheaper than airsoft world would have done it.

Now THAT is bloody genius.

reasonably cheap, free shipping too: http://www.airsoftpeak.com/night-evolution-tactical-flashlight-black-ne04003-p-13712.html

yeah, I'd remove the barrel entirely from the hop unit. It'll take some force to get it to come out of the hop initially but steady application of pressure will get it loose, trying to shock it will likely break the hop unit!

scraps of lint free cloth work well, I've used cut up kitchen roll to good effect in the past too. soak it in a heavy duty solvent like meths to get the grease out of the barrel, repeat it with a new piece every 'pull through' til it comes out clean, then run one dry piece through and you should see immediate performance gains.

clean the barrel before you do ANYTHING else.

CoD4 promod was awesome, shame it doesn't get played by anyone anymore

A timed blank firer that uses 9mm blanks, looks like a proper grenade with spoon and is light enough to throw a good distance.

running is definitely your fault, means you've applied it much too thickly! several thin coats are much more durable than one thick one.

I think it's more soap that a lot of them are allergic to.

in that case as long as you get the surface preparation done right either krylon or halfords will fit the bill.

1) always sand and prime a surface if you intend for the paint to stick to it permanently. If you're after a 'weathered' look straight off the bat, don't bother sanding, but the paint will chip off and expose the red below. 2) Halfords camo paints are excellent, their khaki and green are probably what you're after. 3) yes, but expensive 4) quickly, real soldiers don't spend hours making their guns look like works of art, they're tools.

dry brushing wouldn't work to get the effect he's after. best bet is a heavy coat of spray paint cleaned off with a heavy duty solvent.

use an acrylic spraypaint (krylon is good) and then use white spirit to wipe it off before it fully dries. Works just as well on plastic as it does on metal.

a new barrel is cheaper than the tools required to do a proper job of chopping and re-crowning your old one.

component shop will sort you out. Make sure it'll fit inside your gun though, 2600mAh is gonna be a pretty big battery.

If it helps, I think only 820 people played crysis2! Best FPS I've played is unreal tournament 2004... But it's a bit dated and the learning curve is a lot steeper than most games these days. Counter-strike is probably your best bet, it'll run on more or less anything and it's more addictive than crack.

As Ian said; A 1j gun is a 1j gun, the difference is how well a heavier BB retains that energy in flight.

Heavier BBs go further, mass and velocity are only 2 factors from a pool of MANY factors which affect an airsoft gun's range. There's a really well thought out and modelled explanation of the whole system here; http://mackila.com/airsoft/atp/

I stand corrected, twats would expect a salute when in civvies. Those of us in the real military would not.

that charger outputs 800mAh so a 3000mAh battery should take just short of 4 hours. Get a better charger as your next purchase, I recommend either the turnigy accucell 6 or the imax b6. They're the same thing internally and will cover you for all of your battery charging needs pretty much for ever.

Bullshit.

it compares favourably to a real 152 for exterior finish, obviously the insides are a whole other matter and it's effectively a Baofeng radio under the hood.

RE PRC152, there's a company in china called Triumph Industries (TRI for short) who make a pretty sturdy U/VHF reproduction of the 152.