ParHunter

The app can show you the different points of interest e.g. for your objectives, show where your team mates are (if they are using the app), you can receive instructions from command etc (if that app is used at your site). So in theory it all sounded interesting to try out.

I thought it might be useful to have a phone mount on my plate carrier so that I can use the Ares Alpha app to see my location, that of the objectives etc. So I got myself a cheap mount from AliExpress that protects the phone and holds it securely in place (in landscape mode) on my chest. I can then simply open it up slightly, see my location on the map and close it again. And then I started testing it: To unlock my iPhone you swipe up from the bottom, however the mount has a strap over the phone to hold it in place and you can’t do it without sliding the phone out. ❌ Face ID on the iPhone only works if it can see your face but I’ll be wearing a mask. ❌ Ok I enable ‘unlock with Apple Watch’ but the phone will not do it when in landscape mode, only portrait mode ❌ So I enter a passcode but I would have to take off my gloves to do that ❌ When the phone is unlocked I can’t actually see anything as it is too close to my face and I would need to wear my reading glasses to see anything detailed. ❌ But apart from that it really works nicely😂

I thought working on your own suit is part of the fun. I got just Sniper Bolero https://www.patrolbase.co.uk/invader-gear-sniper-bolero-head-and-shoulders-ghillie-suit got some raffia and started crafting. The Invader gear bolero is very sturdy, hides the head shape nicely and it is easy to add extra stuff to it. I got some leave strips and raffia from Novritsch for that. Might not be as cheap as AliExpress but was a lot more fun then just clicking on a link.

My ones comes from my other hobby where I shoot 42.67 mm BBs and try to hole them. Hunting Pars shows my level of competence as I would starve if I would hunt birdies 😉 @GenuineGermanand you are not the only German in town as my Flecktarn loadout shows (although I still served in the old olive green drab)

I guess Novritsch saw that video as well 🤣

I use a boonie and I think it protects quite well and with the draw string it won't fall off. If you are worried about hits to the head you could add a bump cap (for the boonie or cap) Bump cap at Amazon I use that for CQB oh and a boonie of course looks a lot more reccy 😄

I am surprised. I just remember one video where they shot BBs at the ExFog and the Novritsch one and the Novritsch one broke. They must have improved on that.

Alternative to the Novritsch system is ExFog (you can get it from PatrolBase). My son uses it and you can hardly hear it. I am thinking of getting one myself and then design and 3d print a bracket for my Wiley-X which holds the tubes in place. I had bad problems with fogging at first as I was wearing googles over my normal glasses. Changing to contact lenses helped a bit. So did adding some additional ventilation holes from the top on my googles. The Wiley-X are ok as well as long as I don’t have the glasses touch my forehead. If I use the strap instead of the normal arms the lenses are the most secure but are fogging up like mad. It is for this setup that I am considering the ExFog. It is basically a balance act between no fogging and best eye protection. Ideally you would want both. I personally would not use mesh masks. I’ve got a little shooting range setup in my loft and I have lots of brocken BB fragments lying around. The danger comes when you get shot from close range as that’s when BBs tend to shatter.

Negative Airsoft had a good old rant on this topic https://youtu.be/EiN_swsjfLs?si=Kt3XmO58XlJtLiBw

One brilliant thing I’ve found for airsoft are these: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/bb-bottle-cap-for-emptying-mags Makes unloading your mags a breeze! I have also printed a carbine kit for my AAP but that took a few attempts to get right (3rd time lucky with the main body) and hours of post processing with a Dremel to get everything to fit. The only problem now is that my son is taking it for himself as he loves it so much. We are now looking for other fun ideas to print. Currently thinking of either a MOSCAT grenade launcher or my son wants a shot gun. Has anyone got good ideas or designs?

PLA isn’t the right filament to use IMHO. You could try PLA+ or PETG but the way you slice it is important as well. I’ve only recently started 3d printing and I’ve already broken a few AAP prints I am working on. Try to find out in what direction you will have the main force and try to have your layers in parallel to that. The picture below shows where the print failed after about 1 hour of skirmish. I’ve printed the body upright as that required the least support (especially in inside) but that wasn’t the right decision it seems. ABS or ASA would be an option for filament but I believe you will need an enclosure for your 3d printer if you want to print those filaments.

I’ve asked ChatGPT what it thinks: In the UK, where outdoor temperatures rarely exceed 25°C (77°F), an attic can still become significantly hotter due to various factors such as sunlight exposure, lack of ventilation, and insulation. Here are some points to consider: ### Temperature Inside the Attic 1. **Heat Accumulation**: Attics can trap heat, especially if they are poorly ventilated. During sunny days, temperatures inside an attic can rise substantially higher than the outside temperature. 2. **Insulation Impact**: Insulation slows down the heat transfer but does not completely prevent the attic from getting hot. If the insulation is only on the floor and ceiling, the attic's air temperature can still increase significantly. 3. **Expected Temperature Range**: On a day with an outside temperature of 25°C, the attic temperature can easily exceed 40°C (104°F). In extreme cases, it might approach 50°C (122°F) or more, especially in direct sunlight and with no ventilation. ### Effects on Airsoft AEG Hop Rubber The hop rubber in an airsoft AEG (Automatic Electric Gun) can be sensitive to high temperatures. Here’s how heat could potentially affect it: 1. **Material Sensitivity**: Most hop rubbers are made from materials like silicone or natural rubber, which can degrade or lose their elasticity when exposed to high temperatures over time. 2. **Safe Storage Temperature**: Ideally, the hop rubber should be stored in a cool, dry place to maintain its integrity. Prolonged exposure to temperatures above 40°C can lead to deterioration, such as hardening, cracking, or losing elasticity. ### Recommendations - **Storage Environment**: To protect the hop rubber and other components of your airsoft AEG, store the gun in a cooler part of the house, such as a basement or a climate-controlled room. - **Temperature Control**: If the attic is the only option, consider adding ventilation or using a portable fan to help dissipate heat. You might also use a thermal barrier or reflective insulation to reduce heat accumulation. - **Protective Case**: Store the airsoft gun in a protective case that can provide some thermal insulation. ### Conclusion While it is possible for an attic in the UK to become very hot, especially during summer months, it is not ideal for storing items sensitive to heat, such as airsoft AEG hop rubbers. Taking steps to mitigate the heat or finding a cooler storage location will help in maintaining the condition of your airsoft equipment. So while it might not melt the hop rubber it might lose elasticity over time.

I’ve kept my AEG in a hard case in the attic and up to a few weeks ago it didn’t get very hot up there but that has changed. I played today and while it is still hopping the BBs well I thought it curved more today than before. What is your advice? Can I leave an AEG in the attic in a padded hard case when it can get quite hot up there or is that a no-no?

So my Ender 3 v3 SE has arrived and I’ve done my first few test prints (non-airsoft related). We are now thinking of printing some airsoft related stuff. What material do you normally use for hand guards, rails etc (e.g. for a carbine kit). I’ve only printed PLA so far and I’ve already noticed that that will probably be too brittle (already broke a piece I’ve printed). Do you use PETG or even ABS/ASA? What manufacturer do you recommend for the filaments that isn’t too expensive?

Has anyone tried to print a Odin sound dampener insert in TPU? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/115851600497 Would that work?

Thanks, the IdoGear looks like it will do the job just fine.

Hi I think a molle phone case that you mount on your plate carrier could be quite useful, e.g. if you use maps or even Ares Alpha. I have seen quite a few models but they all have an opening for the camera. What a brilliant idea for Airsoft … I don’t want my camera being shot out. I won’t be using the camera! Does anyone know of a Molle phone case that protects the camera as well?

I am currently looking at the Ender 3 V3 SE which looks quite interesting. That one would only be able to print PLA/PETG/ABS but I guess for Airsoft parts or parts around the house that is what you want.

My son is floating the idea that we should get a 3D printer. I am not opposed to the idea but I first want to get some feedback from people who are using 3D printers for Airsoft (and other stuff). How much do you have to spend to get a decent one (not the cheapest and not the most expensive one) Do you need to buy CAD software separate? What are the material costs? What size pieces can you print with Home 3D printers. Any recommendations for 3D printers. Thanks for your feedback and advice

Why don’t manufacturers do that by default. Seems an easy thing to do. Just requires some O-rings.

I’ve got the same case but with the normal foam. Is the pick&pluck foam worth it? At the moment I can chuck everything in without worrying too much but you have to press the lid down quite a bit to close it. Can you get the pick & plug foam on its own somewhere?

Vortex doesn’t have to be that expensive. I’ve got this one for under £200 and I like it. https://www.opticswarehouse.co.uk/vortex-crossfire-ii-1-4x24-sfp-ir-v-brite-rifle-scope

I used Camo tape and rubber bands to attach real vegetation at first. Than added burlap and some artificial leaves. That worked great but I would always have to adjust all the camo so that I could look through my optics because the camo was pushed up when you lay it on the side or simply by holding it. i now got myself a generic M4 gun wrap from Novritsch and it is actually quite good. I’ve added extra rafia. With the sturdy mesh you can easily attach stuff with cable ties. The advantage is you can take it off whenever you want and then put it back on for the next game. The extra camo isn’t moving around anymore sore the optics are not obstructed.

For me that is part of the hobby alongside crafting your sniper hood or whatever you use. While I haven’t touched my Krytac (I am using a rifle wrap for that one) something as ugly as my AAP can only benefit from a custom paint job 🤣(and no it wasn’t a two tone). I’ve pained my holster, coms including cable even my speed loader (as a guinea pig).

When they say ‘no snood’ for AEG, would camouflaged boonies or helmets be ok? One of the first thing we would do (back in the army) when going into the field was to paint our face and convert our helmet into a little bush. So camo was always part of an infantry man. In my time we were mainly trained on trench warfare (cold war, our role was to dig in and try to delay the Soviets until the Americans arrive) so the head sticking out was the main thing you had to hide (and the hole trench). So taking camo away from normal infantry men is wrong IMHO. Full ghillie? Yes that is not for a normal infantry man. But it is difficult on where to draw the line. I am surprised to see coverage from Ukraine. It seems to be far more important to avoid friendly fire (wearing blue or green tape) then to camouflage yourself.