ParHunter

Has anyone tried to use phones with bluetooth headsets and push to talk apps like Zello? I was looking around for Bluetooth headsets with push to talk buttons but couldn’t find much. The technology is there I am surprised it isn’t used in Airsoft.

I was looking at the Vector Optics Forestor Gen 2 1-5. I tried it out at PatrolBase and really liked it. But before I could buy it I played a game, stumbled over a root that was sticking out and fell flat on the ground with my gun in front of me. If I would have had a scope on it there would have been a good chance that it would have broken. That convinced me to spend £70 more and get a Vortex Crossfire 2 1-4 as the Vortex Warranty would have covered that accident.

Are you referring to Vortex or Vector optics?

The website is still up https://www.incursionairsoft.co.uk/epsom-cqb-bunker and it has some dates listed but not what year 😉 But when I checked a month ago they didn’t have August dates and now some are listed.

Hi, So far my son and I have been playing woodland sites but now we want to try CQB and the closest side to us is Epsom CQB Bunkers. Has anyone played it recently. Is it any good? I’ve only seen posts from 8 years ago. Is it advisable to wear a full face helmet like a paintballl mask or is a full seal goggle plus a balaclava with mesh guard for mouth protection good/save enough? How dark are the tunnels? We only have dark goggles. Do you have to have flash lights? I’ve only got a long gun (Krytac Trident SPR), Is it still enjoyable to play CQB with a gun like that? My son got a short AK so he should be fine.

Good to hear. I just bought a Vortex Crossfire 2 LPVO just for this reason.

First of all I am ‘not the guy who doesn’t call his hits’. Otherwise I wouldn’t have asked the question in the first place. I was trying to understand whether you can reliable feel whether something is a direct hit or not. It seems the answer is no you can’t. I think it would be better to drop the ‘bounce rule’ altogether as it just opens up a grey zone.

The side I am mainly playing at as the rule that reflective bounces do not count (e.g. off the floor, walls or trees). Identifying a direct hit is normally not a problem as I can feel and hear it. However sometimes I notice something that feels like someone tossed a BB at me, often from the side. So basically no power left. That either means it bounced off something (e.g. trees or floor) or is a direct hit from long distance towards the end of the flight path. But how do you tell? If the rule would just be every hit (direct or indirect) counts than it would be easy but how do you tell wether a hardly noticeable ‘hit’ is from a bounce or a long distance direct hit?

That is a very good warranty! Even being shot out by bbs? Are the lenses supposed to survive that? I can’t find anything where they state that. I was always surprised that they sell scopes but without any protection for the lenses (apart from for storage). So I guess the £80 could be worth it? But back to my question, would you expect a scope to break or not? I’ve looked at the warranty for the Vector Optics one: I guess falling on your face with the gun in front of you would be classified as ‘improper handling’ 😉

Hi, I’ve had my first game with my new Krytac Trident today. I haven’t decided yet on a LPVO/red dot yet so I was just playing without any. 1 minute into one of the games (in the mad dash to a good position) I tripped over root that was sticking out and fell forward onto my gun (parallel to ground). The gun was fine only my shoulder still hurts as I fell onto the stock. That made we wonder. If I would have bought one of the options I am eyeing, a Vector Optics LPVO for about £120, would that have survived the fall or would that have been the end of it? What about a LPVO from Vortex for £200. Would that have survived? Thanks for your advice.

I’ve tried the screws to adjust the sight but that only moves it slightly. It doesn’t change where the ring clicks in. It looks like it might be adjustable with two prongs (the two notches should be either at 3 and 9 o’clock or 12 and 6 o’clock. But I don’t want to force anything in case I break it (and void the warranty).

Hi, I’ve just received my brand new SA-H22 and I am a bit gobsmacked by the iron sight. The rear iron sight is a metal ring with 4 holes or different sizes. You can rotate them and they click in place. The only problem is with WHERE they click in place I can see that there are two screws which are probably used for adjusting windage and elevation but I can’t imaging you will be able to adjust it but that much. I haven’t found anything on the internet on how to adjust these sights. Has anyone got a link? One other thing I am having problems with is my battery. I got a crane stock battery but it won’t fit in the stock. It seems the H416 stock can only take very small batteries (the diameter is about 1.8 cm and the battery i have is 2 cm wide).

I’ve taken the hop out as much as I could but it was still missing to the right. I’ve rotated the gun anti-clockwise by 90 degree and it was now shooting straight but above target (basically what you would expect). Adding hop back did not change the results dramatically. I will go to a friends place on Wednesday who’s got a large garden (max 100m range) with no neighbours. There I will be able to see whether the bbs are slicing (golfer’s term for balls curving to the right because of side spin) or whether the sights are not aligned.

Hi, My son just received his CYMA G36 Highspeed gun. We have been testing it on a small garden range of max 10m and the gun has a definite right bias. It is about 5cm off from 5m (so without curving it would be 0.5m from 50m). When you just look at the bbs it fires fine and it looks straight but at 10m you can’t really see whether the bbs are curving or not. I guess there are 3 potential problems The ironsight is not aligned properly (you can’t zero the ironsight) The barrel is misaligned (either horizontally or slightly rotated) The hop is imparting side-spin (e.g. pressing down more on one side than the other) The 3rd is probably the most likely one but I will only be able to confirm that if I can observe the flight on a longer shot. How would you go on to investigate and fix it? What tolerances would you expect from an Airsoft gun. Is a miss of 5cm from 5m acceptable or is there a problem? Cheers ParHunter

Thank you guys! Really good suggestions and information.

Hi, If you read my post again you will see that I was a sniper in my army days (long time ago). So this is not YouTube driven 😉 Thanks for the advice. Soldering won’t be the problem, I am more worried about not putting small mechanical things back together (e.g. in case I have to take the gears out etc). If you can just open up a gearbox and solder a mosfet in without having to take the whole thing apart then that might be an option.

Hi, I am starting out at Airsoft and I am looking for a decent starter gun that I could upgrade to a DMR at some point. A little background, I am not the youngest player on the field (my son got me into airsoft) so I won’t be running around all day long. I trained as a sniper in my youth but at that time we weren’t as equipped as modern day snipers. We basically just had a slightly modified H&K G3 with a scope. So while I don’t want to start out as a sniper straight away I would like to have a gun that shoots accurately on longer distances. I don’t want to spend too much initially as I don’t know how serious I am going to take this hobby (I’ve got other hobbies that take up time). But I don’t want to buy something that isn’t good enough to continue. I normally don’t buy bottom of the range but it seems with Airsoft you have to upgrade your gun anyway to get a decent setup (tight bore barrel 6.03, new hop up, mosfet etc). So I am wondering whether I should get a cheap gun like the Double Bell MK12 SPR MOD0 or 1 for about £170 and then upgrade, pay £100 more for a Specna Arms MK12 (not great features compared to similar priced Specna M4s) or pay around £350 for a CYMA C097 platinum (M4) or C098 platinum (AR10 based). Could I save myself the upgrade when I go with a slightly better model like the CYMA platinum or am I better off starting with a cheap model and upgrading it? What do you think? What would a basic upgrade cost (barrel, hop up and mosfet)? £100 or more? I could do the barrel, hop up myself however I wouldn’t want to touch the gear box to install a mosfet. Can you suggest any other models that might suit a DMR starter? Regarding later upgrading the spring and locking it to semi auto. Is a programmable mosfet the way to go for locking it? So on my wish list would be: Quick change spring (deal breaker) Rotary hop up (could be upgraded) Tight bore barrel (can be upgraded) Mosfet (that could be set to semi auto only) Thanks for your suggestions.