ParHunter

For me that’s how a G3 should look like, not all that other fancy modern stuff 😉 The G3 was my service rifle back in the Cold War and it looked just like that one. Now if the recoil could give you bruises then you are on to a proper replica! You should get a long leather sling to go with it. Can’t remember how it attached to the top of the hand guard though.

Shame, it is not far from me but I just checked the calendar and we have our seasonal festivity at the golf club aka getting shit faced so will have to give the 7th a miss. But I will look out for announcements of further meet-ups.

I had to google that stock 😉 I was thinking of using a spring and a bolt to lock it in place but I am trying not to over-engineer it if possible. I will try with a 'latch' that snaps into place but that you can easily unhook (but still fixed enough not to get unlatched.

This is still work in progress but I’ve designed a print in place foldable stock adaptor for my TAC41 LS. I still have to improve the lock in place as it is currently too easy to fold the stock accidentally. Any suggestion for a good locking mechanism? Currently it is done with small protrusion that locks into a little groove.

It wasn’t about the suppressor but printing an inner barrel extension inside the suppressor when you can’t achieve an air seal between the inner barrel and the extension.

Given the calculator @Pseudotectonic linked to I’ve established that the ratio for my TAC41 LS is 4.32 with the 330mm barrel (the volume of the cylinder is quoted as 41cc). That sounds way too high. Even with a 440mm barrel it is still a ratio of 3.25. I have yet to play with the TAC41 or shoot it at any distance further than 10m so I have no idea how she actually behaves on the field so I won’t go ahead and order a longer inner barrel just yet (which Airsoft retailer is best for parts?) but I would like to plan ahead. Coming back to my idea of printing a ‘silencer’ with a build in barrel extension (probably not at 6.05 but a bit wider). I didn’t study fluid dynamics but I could imagine that it would be very easy to create turbulences and make things considerably worse. Am I right with my guess or could a little gap between the inner barrel and the barrel extension actually ‘release’ some of the excess pressure without creating turbulences around the BB? Update: ChatGPT shot down my idea saying that it would indeed create turbulences. So would probably go down the route of a longer inner barrel which would be concealed by a suppressor.

Thanks for the link @Pseudotectonic very helpful! I understand that a stronger spring would compress the air quicker and thus provide more acceleration. I was just wondering whether the spring comes into the equation for determining the optimal barrel length but it seems not.

Is there somewhere a formula in matching your inner barrel to your piston and spring? I understand that the volume of the cylinder (the active part - how do you actually figure that out? I guess you could measure how far you pull back the bold handle) should be higher than the volume of the inner barrel but by what factor? And how does the spring come into the equation? I got a TAC41 LS and I was told the barrel is too short for the gun and I should get a longer barrel for it. And that was mentioned as the first improvement I should do. Apparently I could go down to the weaker 100NM spring and pretty much achieve the same distance but with better accuracy. They also mentioned that the bb would be pushed offline when the air pressure is too high when the bb exists the inner barrel. On another note, would it be possible to 3d print a ‘compensator’ with build in barrel extension? I guess you would not be able to get a good air seal.

I managed to fit them both in with optics by removing the stock of the TAC41 which is easy to do. Saved myself a few quid there 😉

What is the recommended BB weight for a TAC 41 LS? 0.45?

When I bought my first rifle I bought a Nuprol Large Case with the internal Size: 102x33x12.5cm That was big enough for the Krytac with scope and a few mags and my AAP. But now the collection has grown and a TAC 41 LS joined the lineup. Unfortunately the two rifles won’t fit into the same case. It is not the length but the width of the case that is too small. I can see the Nuprol XL case is a lot longer but only 6 cm wider (137×39×12.5cm). That doesn’t seem big enough for two rifles or does the extra length allow you to have the rifles laid out better? What cases are you using for multiple rifles?

Hi I just picked up my new TAC 41 LS and of course one of the first things I’ve done is to swap to the stronger 120Nm spring. On the normal spring it chronoed on somewhere between 1.6 and 1.7 Joules which was more than I thought it would (I didn’t have heavy BBs yet so I just used some 0.25s. Might try my 0.32 tomorrow). I then switched the springs. It was not as easy as was shown in the video from Silverback but I managed to get the springs back in. When I then chronoed it again it only went up to 1.8 Joules. That sounds like there could be an air seal problem? How do I figure out what is going on there. What Joules do you get on the stock spring and the 120Nm spring? I think they must have played around with the rifle in the shop as the first time I’ve shot it with no magazine(!!!) something got shot out. There must have been a bb still in.

Hi I am thinking of getting my first bolt action but I am not sure whether this is for me so I don’t want to splash out too much from the start but I would want to still be able to shoot at 2J or there about. The TAC 41 LS looks very interesting given the price point and how light it is. My question is can the LS take a stronger spring to get it up to 2-2.2 Joules? Does it actually come with different springs? I am getting confused by this warning I see in a lot of places What does that mean? Would you be better off with the TAC 41 L over the L/S? How durable is the L/S?

My stock AAP hammer finally broke (as was expected). Which replacement would you recommend? I’ve seen a stainless steel version from Action Army itself, CowCow, Tridos Design and TTI. Which one would you recommend? The one from Tridos only comes with the actual hammer but has an ‘easy install’ clamp. Do you recommend updating the complete hammer set or is it enough to just replace the hammer itself?

The app can show you the different points of interest e.g. for your objectives, show where your team mates are (if they are using the app), you can receive instructions from command etc (if that app is used at your site). So in theory it all sounded interesting to try out.

I thought it might be useful to have a phone mount on my plate carrier so that I can use the Ares Alpha app to see my location, that of the objectives etc. So I got myself a cheap mount from AliExpress that protects the phone and holds it securely in place (in landscape mode) on my chest. I can then simply open it up slightly, see my location on the map and close it again. And then I started testing it: To unlock my iPhone you swipe up from the bottom, however the mount has a strap over the phone to hold it in place and you can’t do it without sliding the phone out. ❌ Face ID on the iPhone only works if it can see your face but I’ll be wearing a mask. ❌ Ok I enable ‘unlock with Apple Watch’ but the phone will not do it when in landscape mode, only portrait mode ❌ So I enter a passcode but I would have to take off my gloves to do that ❌ When the phone is unlocked I can’t actually see anything as it is too close to my face and I would need to wear my reading glasses to see anything detailed. ❌ But apart from that it really works nicely😂

I thought working on your own suit is part of the fun. I got just Sniper Bolero https://www.patrolbase.co.uk/invader-gear-sniper-bolero-head-and-shoulders-ghillie-suit got some raffia and started crafting. The Invader gear bolero is very sturdy, hides the head shape nicely and it is easy to add extra stuff to it. I got some leave strips and raffia from Novritsch for that. Might not be as cheap as AliExpress but was a lot more fun then just clicking on a link.

My ones comes from my other hobby where I shoot 42.67 mm BBs and try to hole them. Hunting Pars shows my level of competence as I would starve if I would hunt birdies 😉 @GenuineGermanand you are not the only German in town as my Flecktarn loadout shows (although I still served in the old olive green drab)

I guess Novritsch saw that video as well 🤣

I use a boonie and I think it protects quite well and with the draw string it won't fall off. If you are worried about hits to the head you could add a bump cap (for the boonie or cap) Bump cap at Amazon I use that for CQB oh and a boonie of course looks a lot more reccy 😄

I am surprised. I just remember one video where they shot BBs at the ExFog and the Novritsch one and the Novritsch one broke. They must have improved on that.

Alternative to the Novritsch system is ExFog (you can get it from PatrolBase). My son uses it and you can hardly hear it. I am thinking of getting one myself and then design and 3d print a bracket for my Wiley-X which holds the tubes in place. I had bad problems with fogging at first as I was wearing googles over my normal glasses. Changing to contact lenses helped a bit. So did adding some additional ventilation holes from the top on my googles. The Wiley-X are ok as well as long as I don’t have the glasses touch my forehead. If I use the strap instead of the normal arms the lenses are the most secure but are fogging up like mad. It is for this setup that I am considering the ExFog. It is basically a balance act between no fogging and best eye protection. Ideally you would want both. I personally would not use mesh masks. I’ve got a little shooting range setup in my loft and I have lots of brocken BB fragments lying around. The danger comes when you get shot from close range as that’s when BBs tend to shatter.

Negative Airsoft had a good old rant on this topic https://youtu.be/EiN_swsjfLs?si=Kt3XmO58XlJtLiBw

One brilliant thing I’ve found for airsoft are these: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/bb-bottle-cap-for-emptying-mags Makes unloading your mags a breeze! I have also printed a carbine kit for my AAP but that took a few attempts to get right (3rd time lucky with the main body) and hours of post processing with a Dremel to get everything to fit. The only problem now is that my son is taking it for himself as he loves it so much. We are now looking for other fun ideas to print. Currently thinking of either a MOSCAT grenade launcher or my son wants a shot gun. Has anyone got good ideas or designs?

PLA isn’t the right filament to use IMHO. You could try PLA+ or PETG but the way you slice it is important as well. I’ve only recently started 3d printing and I’ve already broken a few AAP prints I am working on. Try to find out in what direction you will have the main force and try to have your layers in parallel to that. The picture below shows where the print failed after about 1 hour of skirmish. I’ve printed the body upright as that required the least support (especially in inside) but that wasn’t the right decision it seems. ABS or ASA would be an option for filament but I believe you will need an enclosure for your 3d printer if you want to print those filaments.