Colin Allen

What charger are you using? If it is one of the cheap ones, you really need to get a decent charger, such as the SKYRC S60 https://ymctestdomain.ymcracing.co.uk/chargers/246-skyrc-s60-ac-charger-60w-6a.html. It is now discontinued, but still available from some retailers. This will enable you to take your battery down to storage charge safely and will do a much better job of charging your battery.

Problem loading photo :(.

Not THE Clumsy Phillipe? They still talk of him in hushed tones in the bars of Aubagne.

Indeed they do; the mAh rating is a measure of capacity, which does not change based on the discharge rate.

I suspect that it is more likely that the branders lie about the C ratings rather than the battery manufacturers, which is what I commented. I understand C ratings rather too well. Much of my current work is on alternative energy sources for transport; while I am more focussed on hydrogen, I have had to learn about battery technologies.

Regarding the A&K ACR, which colour (black or tan) and barrel length (short or long) are you after? I have just had a look at their boneyard. Bloody hell! The prices are ridiculous.

Sadly, purveyors of batteries for airsoft toys do not seem to have received the memo about the C rating being an industry standard term, which I suspect was Sewdhull’s point.

Welcome aboard! Looking at your list of RIFs: Ares KelTec: it is beautiful but it is an Ares and, therefore, badly designed, badly made and very likely to kill itself in strange and unusual ways. PTS Magpul Masada: Guess what? it is beautiful but it is an Ares and, therefore, badly designed, badly made and very likely to kill itself in strange and unusual ways. For some reason, I own three Ares RIFs, including the AK version of the Masada, for which PTS managed to make the wrong mags as they are the 5.56 version rather than the AK ones; the hop unit is junk but, fortunately, SHS make a decent replacement. I have found Ares to be very good to order parts from if they have them in stock. However, their stocks seem to be very low, especially for parts for older RIFs.

Yep! I was just about to post the same thing; it is the left hand one.

Same here; they are decent BBs at a decent price.

Yes, they probably are, but it is still an expensive process.

Dave's Custom Airsoft: ripping people off since 2014.

Cost! That is a manual activity that would push the price up. Even doing it for oneself would be tricky as it is such a small surface area. I wonder how Begadi manage it at that price.

On a muddy day! Wonderful!

Your XT springs do seem very good; I have not had any issues with them yet.

Thanks. I did wonder about what was obviously a coating on the Prometheus springs and how it would stand up to repeated use. The paint, or whatever it was, on the ASG springs seemed pretty durable but I gave up using them as they were ridiculously long. It doesn't matter to me as much now as I keep a record of which spring each RIF contains.

You will notice the difference! You don't need a posh etu; a Perun AB++ provides precocking and only requires rewiring although, assuming it is a V2 gearbox, if you are going to open up the gearbox to do that, you may as well fit an etu.

One of the advantages of a plastic toothed piston is that it can "settle in" when the AoE is not quite correct; this results in it looking a "little stripped". Another advantage is that only the piston dies if PME or one of a few other nasty things happens.

Yes it does and yes it is. There are other ways of achieving faster trigger response, such as fitting an FCU that includes trigger sensitivity adjustment.

True; if he did, I would buy them. Ideally, they would need to be entirely coloured, like the Prometheus ones, or coloured at both ends so that you do not lose the indication if you have to trim them.

ASG and Prometheus do them. I find it very easy to keep track of them; it just takes a bit of organisation. I would rather use a single 0.3mm than three 0.1mm; it makes it easier to try to work out where that odd one you always find after opening a gearbox came from.

It works. I have done it on a couple of builds. I run a 125mm inner barrel M4 with an M105 spring, getting 1.02J. Sorting out airseals is cheap; better O rings, maybe a better fitting cylinder head and an O ring nozzle. Good airseals also help deliver more consistent power.

I find the etched shims that you sell perfectly adequate. Having the size on each shim is very helpful. Given that I am very old and wear glasses that would not look out of place on a Japanese sniper, you young chaps should not be struggling to read the etching. SHS shims; they are good.

Before you start bunging a heavier spring in, have you checked that the airseals (piston head, cylinder head, air tube to nozzle, nozzle to rubber) are all good? If they are, a somewhat stronger spring would be a good idea.

A full cylinder will lead to over voluming; in theory, a 1/2 cylinder would be the best match. If you are in the UK, do not try to achieve 350fps (I assume you mean when using a 0.20g BB); given the variability of site chronos, there is a decent chance your new toy will end up going back in its bag. Running between 0.97-1.05J on your preferred BB weight with a good hop unit (ZCI?) and a Maple Leaf Macaron with an AK2M4 red nub will give you all the range you need.