Terry_Rist

Thanks for clarifying, I thought that would be the case but didn't want to give false information based on an assumption and no experience. It explains why there is no settings in the perun to disable the feature electronically.

I have hacked up an ETU++ in the past to work in a P90 with a warhead brushless and it works fine (this was before they released the P90 optical mosfet) The only thing I am not sure about is if the Perun ETU still allows you to use the mag cut-off feature? I haven't installed one in a replica that has a mag stop so have no idea how the mag stop functions and whether it is a mechanism linked to the trigger contacts or a separate switch via the control board, but probably worth checking that it is still supported beforehand if that feature is important to you.

The UKARA just is a way for retailers to validate that you have a defence to purchase a RIF. Otherwise it would be almost impossible for retailers especially those online to make sure you had a defence and they weren't risking breaking the law by selling to you. It was set up separately form the VCRA legislation by the retailers as a way to protect themselves from breaking the law and ensuring that who they sold to did have a valid defence. You can still rent, borrow and play with a non two tone RIF at an airsoft site without the UKARA and some sites will sell you non two tone guns if you are there playing as they count that as a valid defence.

The problem with the UAR is that It is built to such a tight budget that the bodies on them are really horrible and plasticky. They don't -and never will- feel like a solid platform. Other than that they can be upgraded performance wise to whatever you want, relatively standard V3 platform underneath it with a trigger linkage. I loved my RDB until the mosfet shat itself, and the reliance on a magnetic sensor not a cut-off lever made it almost impossible to get a custom mosfet working for me. I actually have another stock mosfet on the way to fix it as it has just been sat in bits underneath my bench for months. Yes I did have to upgrade the piston, piston head and nozzle out of the box just to get a decent air seal, and then fucked the mosfet probably by using a high torque with strong magnets which has just caused it to go haywire. Externally and ergonomically it is fantastic though, one of the best bullpup platforms.

IF it were me, I would shove a V6 in it. You should have enough room and this allows you to use the standard P90 hop unit which will save you a lot of time and hassle trying to get a 3D printed unit to work. My version of we have Bren Gun at home...

I would advise changing the spring, putting it back together and making sure it still works before diving into anything else 🤣. Other than getting serious and opening up the gearbox to change parts inside, the only other things you may want to look at upgrading if you aren't happy with the performance and consistency are the hop rubber and the barrel. Both of these depend on how good the stock performance is, and I am a big believer in 'if it 'aint broke don't fix it' because you are just as likely to make it worse and then have to spend ages fiddling to get it to work properly... don't ask me in how I became an expert in this.

Yeah added an Edit because I did find one complete in stock but it is more expensive than I remembered seeing it. I have to say I am impressed with the M14 platform for its performance in range/accuracy. Out of the box the shoot stupidly well and consistently compared to other options in the price bracket. A lot of people are put off by the difficulty of getting parts and the hassle of working on them which is fair enough, but if you can persevere past those drawbacks they are a great and underrated platform in my opinion. I can't believe how difficult it has become to get replacement parts for replicas in the past few years. I thought I used to be able to see hundreds of stock furniture parts as spares or replacements listed everywhere, now it seems to be the case that you have to ask a retailer nicely if you can get them to order it in and hope they can. This isn't helped by brexit and the high shipping costs from Asia now either.

I am sure I came across they CYMA variant in stock at a reasonable price a couple of months ago when I was buying a standard M14, I now can't remember/find where it was or maybe they have already sold out. Not a massive fan of the looks of them personally, but they definitely aren't common I will give you that. Not sure if people didn't like the look of them or what, but I guess they never sold that well. Having the EBR style motor housing stops anyone just buying a replacement stock to switch between that and standard without having to switch parts of the gearbox as well otherwise you could just run one set of internals/receiver and switch between which one you felt like. Edit: found one in stock on BBguns4less, but at £190 it is considerably more than a standard new CYMA M14, maybe i was misremembering the price.

An M130 spring seems excessive with only 4 teeth removed. That is the same short stroke as as stock CYMA platinum and mine gets to 340+fps with an M110 spring. I have others that I have short stroked with cut down M120 springs, but never had to go as high as M130. All springs are different in airsoft, there is no standardisation across different manufactures, even within the same manufacturer you can sometimes get ones that don't match up to what you expect.

I never run a 'DMR' so it doesn't affect me, but I always wonder why anyone bothers at sites where the limit is only 50 fps over a normal AEG. I can't believe that you really get that much extra range and you are still stuck with the disadvantages that come with adhering to DMR rules. 425-450 makes more sense in terms of limits to me, if you go all the way to 500fps the people with bolt actions get salty that they are now the ones at a disadvantage when you take away their high joule monopoly, some sites seem to get away with doing it though.

Yeah I agree. Site design has a big part to play in this, but it feels like at a lot of sites the cover can be placed just out of range of the rental/ stock gun performance and just within range of really well set up replicas. This leads to a huddle of players behind both barricades just sat there unable to push up because there is no more cover and unable to take each other out because they don't have the range. The people with worse performing guns end up getting stuck in stalemates all the time and can cause a lot of the 'they aren't calling their hits' when they see some people can shoot that far and believe with the amount of shots they have put at the opposite cover there is no way that they could have missed even though they're just not reaching out that far. Good layouts should have some areas at longer range like this, but they should also have alternative routes with cover stacked a lot more densely to allow those without the range to move up and not get stuck in a stalemate. It isn't just rentals and new players that this affects, anyone that wants to run anything that is 'sub optimal' say a spring shot gun (heck even a gas shotgun that hasn't been HPA tapped) or some other obscure replica that is fun to use but is never going to match the performance of the completely upgraded M4 platforms. Ideally Sites would be set up to offer opportunities for both longer range slow playstyles but not discourage people pushing up and keeping the game flowing. Now when I get people come along to play airsoft for the first time I tend to lean towards suggesting going indoors because it removes the element of new players being stuck or unable to play because they feel like they don't have the range to compete with the regulars. Yes they can still be overly cautions and end up stuck places, but that is just a mental barrier to overcome not a physical limitation of the range on the replica that they are using. I will say that this is different for some big outdoor fields that host much longer games, but the ones that cater to generic weekend woodland skirmish's should try and do as much as they can to equalise the discrepancy in range and accuracy between those who have dumped thousands into their kit and those who have turned up with their mates for the first time and just want to have fun running around with a rental G36. Maybe it is just rose tinted spectacles, but I am sure that people used to have more variety of guns that they ran. The M4 platform was still popular, but now it can seem like 90% of the AEGs at a game day are an M4 variant of some kind. I somewhat understand, but it still makes me a bit sad when there are so few people I can talk to about their interesting primaries. Even some more people running AK's would be a start but they seem less and less especially as a starter gun, more and more start with an M4 rather than the AK or G36 or even MP5 that used to be more common I am sure. The whole YouTube thing bothers me because it is so far removed from what an actual gameday is like. It isn't even the fact that they cut out most of it and only show curated parts, they have to make content that is interesting to watch after all. It is that the stupid stuff they do and pass off as normal, glorifying cheating/cheater justice, making it seem like they are only going for headshots, staging things for better content or focusing on drama on/off the field gives airsoft a bad name. It makes it look like the wild west for people who have never played and gives the impression that everyone is angsty and against each other all the time. Most airsofters are nice friendly people who will help you out in the safe zone, talk about their cool kit and gear and are there to have a laugh and have fun. I guess people just hanging out, having a few laughs and a good time doesn't make for good clicks and you have to focus on the tiny amount of bad things and arguments that do happen. Also people turning up to just take pictures for their social media are just mildly annoying. So long as they aren't affecting the game play and keep them selves to themselves I don't have a problem and can't complain. But if you turn up to pose in the safe zone, then go out and pose for your mate or girlfriend to take pictures of you in game and don't actually play and then leave at lunch time why did you bother even turning up; also who is even looking at what they are posting?

Probably the only time you will confirm if a site actually has the proper cover is when the worst happens and you need to rely on it...

I bought some red retro-reflective tape and wrapped it round the centre of my BFG. You can't see it when it is in the pouch, but makes it noticeable enough once thrown, either outside because of the red colour of the tape or in dark areas it is easy to see the reflections when sweeping the area with a torch. I also have my name and mobile number written on the side of my grenade in silver permanent marker, just an extra level of insurance in case I do loose it and someone finds it at a later date.

This is completely true. Even If I had a super accurate laser gun with sites 100% dialled it I think most of the time I pull the trigger first rather than lining up my shot to deliberately aim at someone's hands. Whenever I get sot somewhere particularly painful that is what I attribute it to with who ever shot me. I doubt they spent ages lining up their shot with malice to shoot me right on the knuckle, it probably just happened to be what ended up getting hit as they shot at me as a whole.

No problem, Hope it all goes well for you. One thing I just realised is that I am not sure the upgraded spring guide you have will work. As far as I was aware the Double Bell Scar has a quick change spring system and the spring guide you have listed is the normal type. It is worth checking at least before you buy what your gun has, it looks like it may even come with a metal spring guide with a bearing already installed in which case there may be little point to changing it. I usually only upgrade a spring guide if it is plastic from stock and doesn't have any form of washer or bearing on it.

I feel so sorry for that poor M14 😢 though it is probably less butchered than what I have done to one of my M14s 🤣... I need to get back to Red Alert at some point soon, it is such a nice field and so well run, the lunch is always a great bonus there. Off to Abingdon this Sunday to play there, hopefully I can get another clear weekend soon and make it back up to Red Alert Newbury again.

Seeing as the Scar has a standard V2 gearbox, I would go for the Perun Hybrid V2 rather than the AB++ this will give you a lot more features and reliability especially if you are running 12:1 gears (personally I would just stick to 13:1 and you can definitely find them cheaper than that anyway -check AK2M4.co.uk he is cheaper for the ZCI barrel you have listed as well). Your motor is a similar story, I would go with an ZCI, SHS or XT brand one for about £30, the one you have isn't that special and is overpriced IMO. If you want better performance and don't mind spending a bit more, go with a warhead brushless. Everything else looks fine, not a massive fan of SHS ali nozzles as I had my M14 one snap instantly when dry firing the gearbox without even having a hop unit on (looking at it afterwards it was so thin I can't believe how poor the design was and I had to switch back to stock). I have several double bell P90s and honestly couldn't be more impressed with their stock internals, the stock pistons are some of the best pistons out there and their gears and shimming all seem fine from the factory. It is amazing how good they can be out of the box with only un upgraded hop rubber and a brushless motor without even touching the gearbox. I have been eyeing up the Scar for a while but haven't managed to justify pulling the trigger just yet. just realised after writing that that you have a replacement piston in your list. If it has the black piston with full metal rack and the red aluminium piston head already in your Scar I would just use that. I would buy up these pistons if I could find a place to as I love them and haven't had any problems with them in anything. If you still want to change your piston then you will probably need a new piston head as the piston heads tend to be thread locked on so tightly that it is impossible to separate them from the piston themselves.

The general consensus is that for shorter barrels you need less volume so I don't understand why you think it would be worse on a shorter barrel when you are happy with the same set up on longer barrels?

Just means how much further you can pull the trigger once it has got past the break point. If you want to have a super short trigger pull with a hard stop then you can use the grub screw to do that, if you leave the grub screw out then it just means you have more travel left in the trigger once you have tripped the hammer before there is a physical stop to the trigger movement. This doesn't affect the take up in the trigger before the break point so doesn't impact the trigger response on a single shot. Only if you are spamming in semi auto it may decrease the reset time between shots but it is pretty much just a personal preference thing.

Yeah I got sucked into Kill team when GW re-released it a few years ago, really enjoyed making small teams of completely custom miniatures. I had tried 40k before but just didn't find it enjoyable making the same models over and over again, building and painting an entire army just felt like a chore. Eventually my mate I used to play with moved away and I never really touched the models again, the rest of life takes over and I have enough other hobbies and jobs to do to fill my time but I did have a lot of fun with kill team when I did play it. I really love the lore behind the 40K universe and I even have a copy of the Only War tabletop rules and expansions somewhere but could never convince anyone to play it and again the tabletop group I played with a couple of times just drifted apart as everyone moved on with their lives. I feel sorry for your wallet if you are getting back into GW models, and I really hope this post doesn't tip me back into it as I don't have enough time to work on airsoft stuff and cars without getting back ito another hobby that is a huge time sink XD. I bet along with your finished armies you still have a big collection of grey plastic like the rest of us left over form well intentioned projects that never got completed. i still have way too many boxes of sprues from model kits I have never made, not just games workshop stuff.

Wow, what a surprise, I wonder if I put a stronger spring in my gun after chrono this would also happen? what about using a higher pressure gas in my Gas Blowback? If people want to cheat then they can with any platform, not denying that it is theoretically slightly easier on HPA, but it is up to the site to make sure this doesn't happen. Locking regulators and random choro checks should be mandatory. if you banned HPA these people would just swap the spring in an AEG after chrono or run gas mags with black gas but only chrono on green. HPA doesn't hit any harder than any other gun at the same power level, it is people cheating with HPA that are the problem not the system its self.

Does this mean that you don't have your own primary yet? I would highly advise against getting a pistol as a primary if you don't have any other weapons. Though you can run a pistol as a primary, it is way less practical than a standard AEG and much more expensive by the time you take into account the mag costs and a pistol that reliably performs to the same level as even a basic AEG. You could of course go the HPA route and run with M$ mags which makes pistols completely viable, but is also an expensive investment. If you want to try it out and have some people that you know that attend your site, ask nicely to borrow one of their pistols for a game or two, that way you can see whether or not you still love the idea of going pistol only or if the romanticism wears off once you try and experience the disadvantage verses running an AEG. As for shipping form HK to UK it is hit or miss in my experience, sometimes it is fast and no problems with customs, other times it can get stuck for ages or you get hit with an unexpected customs charge. Make sure the company you are buying from puts your UKARA number on the customs paperwork or you will have to spend even more time dealing with customs and trying to prove that you are legally allowed to purchase a RIF with a valid defence.

Yeah that is fair enough the motors can work but I just find them so lethargic when you try and push them. I agree that it can still be used, just wanted them to be aware that they will have a noticeable reduction in response and cycle time if they just put a bigger spring in and don't make any other modifications.

Looks like a part you should be able to copy relatively easily with some standard measuring equipment that most machine shops would have, a pair of callipers, a micrometre some radius gauges and the like. 3D scanning is an option, but with the small size and required precision of the object it isn't feasible at the consumer level from my experience. 3D scanning tends to work well on larger parts and especially organic parts with a lot of complex curves and surfaces, on a small part like this you won't get the accuracy that you need from anything consumer grade. Some machine shops and specialist companies do have much higher precision machines designed for copying small parts like this that would work. Actually making the thing is the next problem, even though it has fairly simple geometry, the amount of operations required to machine something like this from billet would be huge. Either you would require a very high end 4+ axis machine or a lot of set ups and tool changes on a standard 3axis machine. Either one of these is incredibly expensive in small quantities as the set up and programming time involved will be very expensive. If this cost is spread out over hundreds or thousands or parts then it becomes more economical, but for <100 parts it makes the individual part cost very high. For small quantities other things can drive up the price a lot, any tooling cost is spread over a small amount of parts, you pay a lot for a small batch of whatever material you are using compared to doing a bigger run and buying material in bulk there is also usually a set up cost per order which is to cover the cost of setting up the tooling on the machine and switch it over to do your job form whatever it was on before. Again for a big batch a set up fee of a few hundred £/$ adds pennies onto the cost of each part, for only a small number this can easily double or triple the part cost once this is factored in. You may find a business that really needs the work or doesn't have these types of added cost, but I am just warning you about what is standard in the industry for small batch manufacturing. When you get into more volume manufacturing, some of these costs like he set up costs may be waived entirely because they know that the job will be running long enough that it isn't a big deal to spend an hour or two setting it up and they know you are a good customer. Also if you move enough volume through them then they are more willing to help out with small projects on the side, this is how I get stuff made as one offs, people don't mind helping on a few one offs here and there when you order thousands of other parts from them a month. It is great that the companies my business uses for all our machining, laser cutting and tube bending are all within 200m of our factory and I am friends with all the owners, it gives me a lot of benefits for small hobby projects that wouldn't be possible to someone who didn't have the connections and steady business orders to back it up.

You can't 'upgrade' a gearbox to a V2 gearbox, the gearbox versions are all different gearbox shapes and types, a V3 isn't an upgraded V2 it is a completely different gearbox for a different type of gun. Your M14 EBR has a V7 type gearbox with a different motor housing compared to the standard V7 gearbox because of where the motor sits in the EEBR version of the M14. When it comes to upgrading a V7 gearbox, they aren't the easiest to work on and the parts availability is difficult for the parts that aren't universal between al gearbox types. You have a different cylinder, different gears (the spur gear is a different size, the bevel and sector gears can be changed) the cylinder head and nozzle are specific to the V7 (nozzle is specific and just getting the right length standard nozzle wont work). They also don't work with a lot of aftermarket pistons as they rub on the gears so the piston has to be modified to clear them. Things that will break eventually if you put a stronger spring in it, the stock piston is fully plastic, maybe one metal tooth (i only disassembled one yesterday but can't picture it in my head) this wont hold up to continued use with an M130 and really a full metal rack is required (but this then means modifying one to fit). The standard gear may or may not hold up, they aren't the strongest gears ever but with decent shimming they should be fine for a while. The only aftermarket ones that are readily available are the SHS V7 gearset and they are decent, I have used them but they are expensive compared to standard gears because they are such a niche item. Your stock motor may not be up to pulling a spring that big, the stock CYMA motors really struggle with bigger springs and most likely it will make your gun incredibly sluggish. I don't know about the motor length on the V7 EBR version, but stock CYMA V7 gearboxes come with a short type motor that is actually slightly shorter than most stock short motors so you have to modify the shaft to fit properly. Actually jamming an M130 spring into a V7 gearbox is no easy task, they don't have a quick change spring so you are trying to jam the spring in, stop the cylinder from popping out all while keeping all the gears inline and not knocking shims off them as you try and close the gearbox. It is not fun and will take several tries most probably. It can be incredibly frustrating but is possible.