Pseudotectonic

The more I think about it the more I think we probably don't need such an organisation in the UK unless there is some clear specific purpose that calls for it (such as case of UKARA being a framework for providing actual legal defence) Going back to drawing board, these functions are more or less fulfilled without any centralised body. 1. Represent and Promote - already tons of airsoft content on social media and youtube 2. Regulate and Enhance - sort of perpetuated by field owners (game rules and so on) and perhaps insurance 3. Organise and Facilitate - anyone can organise any event Is the airsoft hobby fragmented? Maybe, but is there any benefit of changing that? I don't know -- I think making a patch about a fictional organisation (and writing backstories about it) can be a cool and creative exercise, but I think it needs to be honest in its execution and not mislead people into thinking it is something real. And until they can demonstrate something other than making a patch (anybody can do that) I remain sceptical. Happy to be proven wrong tho. But I don't feel there is an actual vision there, other than buzzwords.

Who runs it?

No names, no source of funding, collecting personal data... hmm...

My opinion has not changed about UKAPU, functionally they are a facebook group that does nothing other than holding AGMs and charging people monthly fee in preparation for a mythical prophecy that one day some legal apocalypse might happen that is when they will save the day. -- If one were to go back to the drawing board, and think of what an actually useful organisation would do, their mission would include fundamentally three things: 1. Represent and Promote 2. Regulate and Enhance 3. Organise and Facilitate 1. Represent and Promote: is basically PR activities (and lobbying, if necessary) for the hobby 2. Regulate and Enhance: is R&D into the nature and rules of the hobby, and developing best practices and codes and so on, to improve safety and fun 3. Organise and Facilitate: is basically running forums, or running events, that can benefit the hobby as a whole -- If we judge UKAPU by these measurements, I don't think they are too effective in any of these

Only 3 shims? Sounds suspicious... Solid bushings actually not a problem But 3 shims sounds too few to have

Perun ROF reduction settings? If not, could be shimming related Bearing bushings or solid bushings?

Speaking of Perun, I had a strange issue with the sticker with the Specna Edge selector plate, I've ruined all the three stickers and eventually on my last ICS sticker trying to troubleshoot and it turns out the blue selector plate itself is reflecting too much IR (?) light for the safe mode to be properly selected (in test mode) so I actually had to paint the side edges of the plate around the whole area near the sensors to fix it, which once I did that it works. Emailed Perun, they say sometimes it does that, but usually once the whole receiver is assembled it should just work and select safe mode no problem. The thing is if it didn't work properly in test mode I wouldn't want to assemble the whole thing. But it's fixed anyway with some paint.

out of curiosity I just tried to reverse engineer the sticker pattern, according to the manual it is just a matter of giving various optical brightness % for the sensor calibration to work, so the stripe pattern is really just meant to be 50% grey these dimensions should be "close enough":

Just noticed the Novatech GP-350 didn't have a delay in that video and it turns out there is indeed some sort of built-in controller with a blue signal wire coming out of the motor... and an included trigger unit? Seems there is also a Reapers video on this, I will watch it later today First glance the motor looks oversized, not sure how it works

@Leo Greer Is your 38 TPA this one? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001389831124.html Yeah saw a video that tested it, it sounds surprisingly slow indeed Curiously it only has a stall torque for about ~230 mN.m for ~33 A which is substantially lower than the 28 TPA, looks like while it is technically more efficient (more torque per current) but it seems it simply cannot make full use of the amount of currents we can afford in airsoft Interesting use case for a 14.8 @Sewdhull I take Reaper's "cycle time" with a grain of salt because they don't explain their methodology (maybe they did but I don't speak German) and judging from other trigger response videos floating around, and the 10 ms delay measured above, I suspect their cycle time is taken from a string of full auto divided by the number of shots, because in my head Warhead would be behind a few other brushless (and not at the top of the chart) if it is only measuring the very first shot, which is more important for trigger response Similarly their current chart looks about right, but it doesn't show whether it is semi or full auto (and for how many rounds), and whether their 11.1 is fully charged (i.e. more than 11.1) or at exactly 11.1 measured with a meter, and if they were not through in making sure the battery is at exactly the same voltage before the tests, it can affect the numbers Also different capacity of 11.1 batts will have dramatic differences of Vdrop under load, which can affect trigger response and cycle time So while their charts are good references I have some doubts about their cycle times and I am not sure Warheads have better trigger response than the other brushless as the chart implies

Curiously the Warhead motors have about 10 ms starting delay, could be software related, because they also seem to have some sort of throttle control for those soft ramping amp draw (source: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QZozpvzYNQI ) This could be their "secret sauce" for making it as efficient as possible, by sacrificing a little bit of performance at the spin-up. That and the fact that I have to buy a bottle of high strength retaining fluid just to install the pinion gear (and wait 24 hours for it to cure) makes it a no-go for me. If I were to spend money on a brushless I would get any other brushless but not a Warhead. Also, in terms of torque, my observation from watching countless video is I think brushless are no better than a 28 TPA motor for trigger response. Curiously I just dug out the actual numbers and it confirms my suspicion: Chaoli's brushless gives 401.8 mN.m at a cost of 156 A https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006432563689.html Chihai's candidate gives 416 mN.m at a cost of 162.5 A https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006352513842.html a 28 TPA gives 395.65 mN.m with merely 66.875 A https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000757781793.html And look at this 18 TPA cutie they just came out which gives a whopping 5123.3 mN.m for 167.3 A (I am sure it is a wrong label and should be g.cm rather than mN.m so if it is around 500 mN.m maybe it could compete with brushless if one were to force feed it current) but this does have upgraded magnets https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006433968020.html I know brushless are more efficient generally speaking, but I still think the higher torque brushed motors are still better (for trigger response), because they have no software issues (e.g. with ETUs) to worry about and and there is no 10 ms boot time delay or other nonsense, you feed it current and it just works. But of course they have higher RPM ceilings and compared to brushed motors with similar RPM they do have better torque. I am just saying, I guess they don't have extra torque more than the highest torque brushed motors.

I'd give them benefit of the doubt and think he might just be an American

are you doing a give away? or just asking for opinion

but when the spring compresses the whole length (every coil) rotates and it will still want to skid on your spring guide end (and occasionally do skid and jump and gouge on whatever it is sitting on) so you want to control these movements it won't all get transferred to the front

Agree you need the bearing for consistency and reduce chance of the spring getting hiccups For the 18 AWG Perun wires I actually appreciate they put this in, this is some very high wire count with silicone jacket so it's very flexible which is great for working with, and I've calculated the difference of ohm between 18 and 16 AWG for the lengths in airsoft is really negligible Have you tried polishing the piston groove walls on the gearbox and where the tappet plate and selector plate slides on? I touched up mine with some 5000 or 7000 (forgot which one) papers and it does make things glide on the gearbox better (now I actually have a problem with an overpowered m90 spring shooing 355 FPS because it is too efficient but that is another topic)

Ok that is quite a standard build so there is no crazy torque requirement to worry about which is good With 18:1 you can estimate your "paper ROF" with 27000 x (8.0/11.1) x 1/18 x 1/60 x 78% = about 14 RPS max (8.2 is because a fully charged 7.4 we can assume around 4.1 V per cell give or take) (The 78% is a universal constant for efficiency loss I find pretty spot on for all the Warheads) So you still have plenty of headroom until PME which is say just below 30, say 28+ RPS In reality you can try the Base 45k which will draw about the max amp your 7.4 is able to power anyway which should give you in the region of low 20s RPS which is still plenty of headroom below PME ceiling so the 45k would still be fine with your setup

If you get a 1/2 ported cylinder, you won't increase the FPS to the previous levels, all the 1/2 cylinder is doing is theoretically reduce the air volume to match the shorter barrel i.e. reducing the theoretical turbulence flow theoretically affecting the BB after it exits the barrel theoretically (in reality I doubt there is any observable difference) So you still need to get a stronger spring to compensate the lost FPS

What motor what gear what spring what BB what barrel length?

to keep things simple, say you want about 330 FPS for UK sites, 330/265 = 1.25 so I would say m115 is a safe bet and once you switch to .28s it will settle at about the joules you want (330 equivalent)

Hold on, are you chronoing with the hop all the way off? In case it was turned up and decreased your FPS by accident

Shorter barrel lower FPS is normal because the BB has a shorter "runway" for acceleration before exiting the barrel Solution is get a stronger spring to compensate, and/or use heavier BBs to partially recover some joules

if your gun is travelling at 300 FPS, and your BB shoots 300 FPS, your BB will still be travelling at 300 FPS, because the speed of BB is constant regardless of frame of reference according to relativistic physics, it may look faster but it is experiencing time differently because of time dilation via Magnus effect applied by the hop up

i suspect paint markers will do the job better (or correction fluid)

I find the chinese 60w adjustable irons from amazon are absolutely fine, they cheap too