The_Lord_Poncho

Yet every field I go to is quite happy to allow standard shooting glasses/non full seal safety glasses that are rated yet provide a clear line of sight to the wearers eyeballs from multiple oblique angles.....

The G&G rubbers are reasonably good as stock buckings go. You could try with a prommy purple rubber, or one of the usual maple leaf offerings (but as you are using the stock inner barrel, you may find that it's window is a little too small for the maple leafs). Unfortunately, some experimentation may be required, including with your chosen tensioner/nub.

Generally they should all be interchangeable, yes. QC is sometimes a bit off in airsoft, but usually with a bit of force, hammer, filing, it can be made to fit.

This is the kind of thing you are after. Uses the existing delta ring and front handguard mount. Plenty of alternative manufacturers and sources - you could probably find one in the classifieds on here. https://www.sixmm.com/en-gb/products/cymam014-cyma-kc-type-cqb-ris-rail-handguard-for-m4-aeg Note that the 'ribbed' side on handguard in the picture is a plastic sleeve that slides on. e.g. https://www.sixmm.com/en-gb/products/gg-knights-type-kac-ris-ras-rail-cover-panel-4pcs-setmarkingdeluxe-ver-blk?_pos=6&_sid=a56fc4159&_ss=r

Yep, as much as people like to knock them,there is no denying that they clearly put a bit of thought into what they put out, and bring some good inovation to an otherwise reasonably static market. The ready supply of spare parts from the off ought also to be applauded. I know they can be a bit cringe at times, but.... Cost will be everything of course, but a gas sniper that becomes an HPA sniper in winter- that sounds fun.

Granted only one type of mag, which gives you greater flexibility I suppose - but ultimately no reduction in the overall number of mags needing to be carried - unless you go for a load of extended hicapa mags that will have a higher capacity than the typical GBBR rifle mag.

Very interested in this - is the mesh readily cutable by tin snips, and what glue did you manage to use to stick it to the fames?

This, and never look back..... To be fair, I do still prefer traditional googles indoors due to the lower lighting levels, and super close ranges. The Pyramex V2G goggles are the most inherently unfoggable goggles i have tried, and when teamed with the antifog unit (mine is a nov one), i don't have any issues at all.

Have you tried swapping the hop rubber back to the original with no luck?

Today's selection, used at Driver Wood this morning to good effect.

I'm liking the KS1! Though I can't justify another Ar15 varient to be honest. My money is waiting for the new range of Cyma Platinum AKs (mercifully coinciding with the new tax year....). Decent gearbox internals, and their historic achilles heel-the infamous cyma mosfet has been rectified with an EShooter device. Full steel bodies too. https://www.patrolbase.co.uk/news-and-events/cyma-platinum-classic-ak-aegs-incoming

The original AAP mags do have weaker springs in comparison to, say, WE (coincidentally I was loading examples from each manufacturer this afternoon ready for tomorrow's game and it is noticeable). But I'd agree with the above - something not right with the feed lips. If you have ruled out the bb follower catching/rubbing in the channel, then probably worth taking off the lips and giving them a gentle sand where the bbs feed through...

I bought the valken mi-7, recommended above by Rogerborg, as my first mask, and it has been pretty good. I've managed to mist it up a few times, really depends on the weather. These days it soldiers on as a loaner (along with some cheap kombat full face masks with a mesh goggle section). Personally I prefer a reasonable quality set of mesh goggles paired with a separate mesh and fabric lower face guard. My first pair of nuprol mesh goggles have taken tens of hits ( maybe 30 or so, I wasn't counting) with about 6 visible dents before I decided to retire them and replace with a identical pair. The mesh vs polycarbonate lense debate rages on, but I have confidence in them (certainly much more so than the plethora of open sided/non full seal shooting glasses you see people wearing), with the slight draw back of the darker picture significantly offset by the fact you never need to worry about fogging.

Best check their website then - often indoors sites only allow a max BB weight of .25g. The advice to go heavy on BB weight is more aimed at outdoor play, where the extra range, punch, and resistance to wind etc benefits a heavier BB. Indoors, I actually prefer a .20g bb, as ranges are short, they hurt people less, and they are faster to target.

I'm betting that this will resolve it. I have a few guns that simply won't feed with maple leaf's, although the MR bucking lips are more forgiving that the longer macaron lips. Whilst Maple leaf are my go-to choice, I have also used G&G Green buckings which provide adequate performance and seem (mostly) universally compatible.

Agreeing with all of the above. good quality 0.28g BBs will be one of the most effective 'upgrades' that you can do to improve accuracy and range (and help punch through light vegetation). 0.25s at a pinch. in relation to the number of magazines you are getting, obviously it depends how itchy your trigger finger is and how fast paced a particular game is. I tend to use semi auto only, and range between using 3 x 140rd mid cap mags to 6 mags for an hours woodland game. If your gun comes with a hi cap, then that obviously gives you a bit extra (i tend to brim a hi cap, and leave it as my reserve mag), and hi-caps can very easily be filled from a bag of BBs mid game if necesary too.

For pure target practice, and assuming that your garden is sufficiently sized/orientated to mitigate additional hazard from the higher joules output, you might want to instead look the direction of .177 pistols. Plenty of semi auto (co2 powered) .177 steel BB firing pistols (which are generally reasonably accurate, at least in comparison to plastic BB firers), and even semi auto .177 lead pellet firers with rifled barrels.

I think either would be a good option. The S&T is cheaper, but seems to require a bit of time and money to get it up to standard (but not much of either). I'm looking into the feasibility of tapping the S&T receiver to take the Vector Optics scope mount, which should get me a half passible No.4T (as long as you don't look too hard at the location of the scope turrets!) for not much money...

I went for a compromise! Olive green combats in a modern ACU style cut, battle belt with olive mag pouches and Colt 1911 riding on it. Tempted by a No.4 yourself?

That's a weird 'part' - almost looks like a cut off section of an old bucking? Has it got the usual ridge inside of it? Irrespective, I wonder if the guns previous owner (presuming you bought it second hand) used it to slip over the outside (front) of the bucking to increase air seal... Sometimes AK hops can also suffer with the hop lever migrating, so plausibly the owner also used it slipped over the adjustment lever to add friction and prevent that? Certainly my Cyma AK hops do not use anything looking like that.

Yes, this isnt normal. That kind of reduction should only happen if you are cranking the hop enough to lift depleted uranium BBs. Assuming you don:t have deep enough pockets to feed that habit, it would seem that either the bucking is torn/nub incorrectly fitted, or something else weird is going on with the hop bucking combo. Either way, the way forward is swapping to a good quality bucking and nub combo - and crucially a combination that is known to play well with your particular hop unit and gearbox/nozzle length (or if there is a paucity of Info on this, be prepared for some trial and error).

Many thanks for taking the time to write this up - given the low price (and the lack of need to find a donor gearbox) it's something that I’ve been keeping an eye on too. Appreciating that you don't have a reference point in other HPA systems to compare to, nonetheless, does the quality of the components, finishes etc seem OK? Looks like you have it sorted now anyhow, but I've had a good experience with an Aliexpress clone of the Balystik HPR800 regulator (and I believe others have had favourable experiences too) - about £20 with postage.

Ha, sorry. I mean, bringing RC car terminology onto this forum, it's all fair game!

Actually, I wonder if the '3s' comment was actually referring to an 11.1 battery - 11.1 three cell batteries are frequently (especially in RC car territory) referred to as being '3s'. What the guy was saying is that he has happily run on a 7.4 without a drama, but he had heard that 11.1 may risk the mosfet (which is true). There - i bet you all feel bad now for taking the p$ss!!

I've spotted these too - they do look enticing - please report back on your findings!