Dan Robinson

Well after the fluid loss I suffered last weekend, i purchased myself a camelbak.... Going to take a fair bit of washing and disinfecting before I drink anything from it. Shame gin & tonic is not conducive with the safe operating of an automatic weapon. 🍻👍😁

A Smart charger is a must for lithium batteries if only to get them to the correct storage charge. My son's m16 has a chunky NIMH battery in it and the performance is pretty damn impressive for a budget pew pew. Good thing about NIMH is it's very hard to overcharge and damage in comparison to lithium. You also dont get memory effect problems. They are twice the size though. I still have a Sky B6 smart charger which does everything i need. But the RC65 is the same price and I suppose easier to use, can't justify the cost of changing for the sake of it.

Smarty pants 😜. I was of the thinking that under load, in full auto, there would be a more noticeable difference due to reduced voltage drop.

Well, now entirely sure the higher C rating has made a difference.... Granted these shots aren't under load, but see if you can guess which two bursts were the 2200mAh 40C, and which was the 2700mAh 10C.

That was what I was thinking - which means cracking open the gearbox. Which I am far from comfortable doing at this stage of my limited experience. If it was simply splicing some wires and soldering, then fine. Especially as my gun has its MOSFET swinging in the breeze anyway. But having spunked a lot more than I was planning on already with this sport, I think I can wait and chalk this one up to a little added realism. I can save my pennies now for when I am in Japan and have access to a wider range of pew pews than I would here.

Still need to research the cleverer MOSFETs. I'm wondering how they know where the gearbox is in its cycle. Glad it's not damaging the gun too much, and I suppose it adds a certain degree of real life fuckery when pew pewing.

2A is what my smart charger defaults to for NIMH so you should be fine. 👍

Very much depends on what battery you have, both in terms of chemistry and size. The setting equates to how much you're jamming into the battery at a time. With NIMH its not so critical. With a lipo then it's vital not to over do it. The higher the number the faster the charge speed which can cause a fire if not careful. If you're charging lipo's then send the charger back and get a smart charger that you can select the exact battery type and let it sort things out. It will also help you track battery health by monitoring the amount of juice going in and out..... Lipo's need to be stored at a certain voltage too, which means getting them to that level if you're storing for more than a few days.

Well... It fits the same way my current battery does.... Strapped to the underside of the stock with velcro strips 🤣🤣🤣. Rough as all balls but you can't get anything meaningful in the stock of the gun anyway. I've come up with a good way to secure the power cable as it comes through the back of the buffer tube protecting it from rubbing. Changing the stock to an M4 is something I brought up the other night. But I'm minded to not spend anymore of this gun and stsrt thinking of the next one.

Looks like this will fit the bill nicely. SUNPADOW 2S Lipo Battery 7.4V 40C 2200mAh with T Plug https://amzn.eu/d/igiqN60

I suppose the next question is how high to go? I was thinking 30 C should do it. Although there are a couple of 50c ones on Amazon and 25C as well. Hhhhmmmm Just found this thread : Interesting read. Especially about the mAh and C rating working as a multiplier. I never thought of it that way. I use 2200mAh 10C batteries. So that changes my search parameters significantly as I was going to get smaller mAhs. But a lot of those are 1200mAh 25c. So not a meaningful change.

Cheers. As per the other thread I'm browsing for a higher c battery now anyway. I'll have a look at MOSFET changing threads as well while the F1 is on. See if it's as easy as it looks with my one hanging in the breeze.

Whelp.... Time to find Mr Wallet again 😂😂😂

Every so often - as in a couple of times on a game day - my gun's trigger seems to jam. It is quickly fixed by moving the selector switch from whatever firing mode it's in to the other, and back again. Is this something to worry about? Or is it a "shit happens" kinda thing? Thanks in advance.

As a follow on quesion.... I'm pondering batteries. I currently use a 7.4v 10c. Would staying with 7.4v, but going to a significantly higher C rating help with rof and trigger response (i already have the GATE X-ASR MOSFET installed)? Dont want to muller my gearbox! Cheers.

Or you could just be nice and send me that AEG on the bottom? I think i have a bit of a lob on. 😂 Will have a look wheb i get home. Thought there needed ti be another adapter in there before the buffer tube.

Cheers for that. Have you a linky to a suitable butt plate?

Seems fair, although, partly because of my job, id consider a basic mosfet an essential upgrade. If only to reduce unnecessary/easily preventable repairs going forward.

Watts is the amount of energy over time, amps is how much energy is being supplied. Ignore Watts for this purpose. Its volts and mah. Another way to look at it is to compare to a gas gun.... Volts equal your pressure. Mah equal your storage capacity. Watts would be how much gas is discharged per shot so equal to the piston of an aeg.

Between being a bit short for my large frame, and not holding a sensible battery internally. I have two options to make my primary gun more sensible... Wait for the stock tube extension to be instock somewhere and live with the overall length. Change the stock completely. I've seen a new stock tube on Patrolbase, but i need an adapter and stock to go with it. As seems to be the case with this hobby, I've alreay spent more than is probably wise on this gun when I add up the purchase and the upgrades, but fuck it.... Whats another £50 / £60?. Can, any kind members point me in the right direction on this one? Cheers.

Your mah give you capacity/longevity, but the volts give you the oomph. I use 7.4v lipo's that i got for my drone with 2700mah. One lasts a full day with just about 50% used up. This is measured by the charger as it charges and discharges (for storage) and knowing this helps keep track of battery health. Also worth ditching mini tamiya connectors as well. I also bought some 1300mah lipo's that should fit in my stick extension if it ever becomes stocked anywhere in the civilised world. I ran with one to tty it out and it got me about two thirds of a game day. Annoyingly the 2700mah doesn't fit so i havr it strapped to the underside of the stock. Looks a bit cyberpunk LOL Lipo give you more consistent voltage through the discharge, and a much higher power density. At the expense of volatility. NIMH being old chemistry, are much safer, and can be left fully charged for ages. Lipo's need to be stored at a specific voltage if not being used for more than a few days. Hence the need for a decent charger.

I'd say it would be a bit anaemic.

Beaten to it..... But i was about to say thats not how batteries work. I just had a mosfet fitted to my boy's M16 as it had carbon build up after 6 or 7 game days. Hes using a 9.6v NIMH though.

Shame this picture was taken 20 years ago LOL