RostokMcSpoons

Apparently it's nothing to do with the British Broadcasting Corporation , beyond that I can't say 🥴😋🤣

Dan, the tagged finder would be great to bring along, cheers! In the meantime how far do you think it is from the edge of BBC to the church? I was slinging BBs through my choice of window on Saturday.

I'm looking down the barrel to check it... the rotary wheel has a slot that only runs halfway around, it's definitely correctly engaged, and the hop applies just as expected - it's just the starting amount that's wrong. it's weird it's like this now and affecting the velocity so much, whereas everything was fine up to my previous skirmish.

Maple Leaf Macaron 50deg (light green) + Omega nub + M105 ASG spring That was it. It's now over-hopping 0.28s for some reason (see my M906 tinkering thread)

I'm very happy with my Lonex mags, but even they sometimes partly unwind when I slide 'em in to my DE and the Tippmann. Any idea if there's something I can tweak to prevent that? With regard to mags / ammo carrying ... you could buy one of these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/132131973156 Stick it in a pocket, it doesn't rattle, and it pours into a high-cap reasonably well if you're careful. I've got enough mags that mine is relegated to 'emergencies only' in a pouch on the back of my belt, it's good to know it's there, so not a wasted investment. (If you do buy one, and it's going in a pocket or somewhere hidden from view, don't necessarily buy the camo that matches the ground you're on - you'll never find it if you drop it :D)

I've very nearly bought a laser range finder, just so I can find out. Because I am not really sure. I've used 0.28's normally. I'm going to guess it's reaching out past 50m with a decent chance of a torso hit with a bit of semi-auto spamming, but hey, it's a truism around these parts - that airsoft meters aren't the same as real meters. I could be being optimistic or pessimistic because I can't really see what's happening at extreme range. The testing range at Spec Ops only has a couple of markers out at 30m and 40m (with no verification they're correctly placed). So it's all guess work for me, unfortunately.

My DE still isn't quite behaving itself, but in a somewhat unexpected way. I have successfully chrono'd my gun at 305fps with 0.28g BBs. Which is peachy, that's actually a little hot (should be 296), but the bit of hop required for accurate long-range shooting brings it nicely down to that. Or should do... if I could do that. Because that chrono result is currently only achievable when I have no hop nub / arm in place! With the arm + Omega nub in place, I can't dial out the hop altogether, in fact it's over-hopping the 0.28s at 15m... and consequently the hefty amount of friction was bringing it down to ~245fps. This is what it was looking at with allegedly zero hop... So how can this be? I've checked the nub is correctly located in the arm, both when fitting and when removing it again (The second attempt I used a smidge of Blu-tack to keep it in place, just to make sure it wasn't moving into a weird position) I tried changing back to the DE's original (figure of eight, squishy) nub. A bit less impingement but still there. Ok, maybe it's the G&G Green hop rubber.... so I swapped out for an ML Macaron 50deg. A bit less but still there... I'm up to 275fps but it's still slightly over-hopping at the minimum setting! There aren't many parts to this equation, what on earth could I be doing wrong? Or do hop rubbers become less intrusive as they wear-in? (I'm sort-of tempted to go rooting around in my bin for the old knackered one!)

I'm no expert, having shimmed :checks notes: one gearbox (a few times though). And I'm not sure how good a job I made of it. However, I'm share my tiny amount of experience gleaned from watching several different 'how to' videos. It can be a very time consuming thing to try to do when you're a duffer like me, but an expert can do it in about five minutes (see Luke's video - Negative Airsoft on YT) My experience in trying to manipulate gears, looking inside the gearbox (a v3 in my case) etc, to check how teeth were engaging with each other, never seemed to tally much with how easy videos made it look ... so avoid shimming if you can ... but if you have to (and you do) ... Better to shim too loose than too tight Make sure all the gears can spin as freely as possible ('duh') You should be able to press on the ends of the gear axles through the bushings from each side of the gearbox (closed and screwed up tight), and see that axle move each way a tiny, but noticeable amount No whiny noises No grindy noises ... errr that's it from me Edit: Here's that video... skip to 4'10" for the 'how to shim the Luke way" Good luck!

I watched a short video about fitting replacement selecter levers, where the guy complained about the fact the spring and ball are often not supplied. He suggested using a Cutoff Lever spring, cut down to the right length. So that might be a better guide than my bad memory for what the original looked like

Yes No I could do that, indeed. Good ol' Ak2m4 is digging out some tiny springs for me, so I might well get the this one working though. I definitely see merit in ditching the ambi selector - it adds some rattle and slack to the system that I could do without.

Haha, I'm not going to live that down, am I He was interesting to talk to, he used to be in models and toy engineering, eventually got in as a member of Jim Henson's animatronics workshop, then helped build the Batmobile for Dark Knight Rises, and now works as a consultant engineer for 'interesting' (i.e. military) things. Rather put my career as a programmer mostly working on financial systems into a (very dull) perspective! I've got friends down in Cobham, and I thought I might take them there to intro them into the fun of airsoft - is it 'newbie'-friendly?

The ball bearing is 2.4mm diameter, so, bearing* that in mind and from my (goldfish) memory, I'm going to say ~2mm diameter, 3-4mm long would seem right, it was a tiny spring. Edit: Pics on my new Fire selector thread I could buy the mixed pack from this eBay page and cut one down to size...? * Pun not intended, I wish it had been

I've managed to lose the detent spring from my Double Eagle M906C selector switch. I don't suppose I'll find the spec of the spring I need, so I might as well buy a new selector switch with hopefully a better, more positive, detent. Here's what I'm replacing... Anyone got a good recommendation? A lot of the ones I've found on t'web either don't have the through-hole for the screw, or don't show the detent ball + spring to give me confidence they're included!

Hahaha the problem with it not shooting... I have a Deans extension cable on the gun, to make connecting the battery easier. To 'make sure' it doesn't get disconnected, the connectors are wrapped in electrical tape... which had hidden the fact it was very nearly disconnected! Without the stock, the battery was occasionally dangling from the gun... it had pulled apart to the point there was just a tenuous connection - when I moved it, it would either make or break, setting off the (connection) beeps. I am SO relieved I haven't broken my lovely gun. Now I just need to get a decent fix for the selector lever....

Cheers, I'd ordered these off Amazon... https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0BSBT6DTD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 But of course I've now found a t-handle bit holder in my toolbox. I'll leave the Amazon order to complete though - might as well have those for my electric screwdriver and drill, might come in handy!

It's alive, but I have buggered it a bit. I lost the tiny spring from the selector lever. I've still got the tiny ball bearing, but the spring (which was along side) must have got attracted to something magnetised (like one of my allen keys), or caught a gust of air and gone walkies. It's too small to find, I just hope it's not inside the gun ;/ Maybe as a result of the lever being able to move too easily, or because I didn't align the selector somehow, it's now sometimes beeping rather than shooting. To add insult to injury, it's chrono-ing at much the same velocity as it was before I started all this palaver - there was nothing wrong with the spring. @ak2m4 do you have the detente springs in stock - or know what size I need to get off eBay / Amazon?

I'm trying to turn the gears, but now I've looked again, it seems it's springing back and I've not really been turning anything. So yeah, quite possibly still in firing position. I presume it's either the ARL or tappet plate spring providing the resistance? Worth just putting it back together and trying again? Awww damnit, I'll give it a go ... bet ya I had the motor in back to front ;]

Thanks! The mag catch was just as described. I was trying to take the bolt catch paddle off, but still can't figure that out. Anyway, with a bit of persuasion the mag catch bar did let me unscrew it over the top of the paddle. So now the gearbox is retained just by the bolt catch ambi connection. :Sigh: I did take care about ensuring the motor was the right way around and attached to the leads correctly... but hell, I could still have done it wrongly. What worries me now is that the piston is able to move backwards and forwards freely inside the cylinder... there's nothing engaging with the gear Has the rack perhaps stripped out from the piston? I can't hear anything rattling around, nothing seems broken as such

Well... damn it. The gun I never wanted to crack open and meddle with, needs cracking open and meddling with. I tried to do the quick change spring thing, to see if a new M105 would lift my fps back to the 345 fps I chrono'd at recently, and that simple job went a bit awry. As I pushed the spring guide in, it felt like the spring popped downwards and the spring guide went deeper into the gun than I expected. I took it back out and cycled the gun without a spring, and it works... but it's now got the piston all the way to the back. I think I've managed to get things out-of-sync (but I'll take advice on that). With the piston backwards it's going to be hellish to force the spring in, but it feels like a bad idea anyway...? (Edit: I realised I could manipulate the bevel gear, and that got the piston forward. I re-installed the spring, but the gearbox clicked and the fire control unit beeped back at me when I tried to fire. So yeah, something is officially askew on treddle. The motor still runs when out of the pistol grip, so I've not killed that or the mosfet) So I'm now at the point where I'm taking my beloved rifle apart, not really being able to remember how M4 / V2 gearboxes are disassembled. I can't get the gearbox out of the lower receiver, though I've taken off the pistol grip, the selector switches, popped out both big body pins, and also the thin pin above the trigger. The remaining thing retaining it in place now seems to be magazine catch bar that runs across the body, and through a hole in the gearbox. I'm not entirely sure how to remove it. Any hints? I can only find YT videos of the 904 and that seems to be built a little differently - there's a removable screw in the mag catch on the right side of the receiver that doesn't seem to exist on mine. Any thoughts, as always, hugely appreciated

I'm not intending to crack open the gearbox, but once I take the spring out I'll be sure to check and listen for anything rattling around inside Edit: Took my lunchtime to have a meddle with the gun... I chucked some 0.20s into the mag and chrono'd it at ~315fps. It took ages to get the stock tube off thanks to that awkward hex head bolt. I managed to loosen it with a long hex key, but it was painful because I could only make quarter turns with it (the L-shape key was just long enough to reach the cutout in the tube). I tried taping a hex bit to a screwdriver, failed... in the end I took a piece of soft wood dowel from a scent diffuser, and jammed that into the bolt head. It gave enough grip to let me undo it at last. (So that's my handy hint for all chaps who don't have extra long allen keys etc to hand) Anyway, inspection of the barrel showed it was dirty, and that the feed lips were getting tatty. Time for a new hop rubber. I installed a G&G green (50deg) in there, cleaned out the barrel and re-tested both on chrono (319fps, nicely consistent, but still low), and in the garden. It's over-hopping 0.20's at the lowest hop setting. I think the Omega nub is incorrectly positioned under the hop arm. I'll have another go after work! If I've still got a low fps, I'll change in the new M105 spring, see what that does.

I tell you what, when it hurts to get shot it seems to encourage them to call 'hit' just to stop you shooting at them. So 0.25s at minimum, but the bigger the better. 0.32 bio's are £18 for 3000 at Spec Ops, whereas a bag of 1000 Geoffs 0.40s are close to that (can't remember how much) for a third of the count, so yeah, big jump in price. You'd not be doing much 'suppressive fire' on full auto if you're pumping out the sniper weight ammo, but it has to be said you'll go through such a relatively small amount of ammo when you're only in semi, that really compared to the cost of the day, and all the guns and kit you've invested in, just pay for it!

Got some errant lube getting onto the rubber to lose grip?

I've got the figure of 8 arm, and just dropped the omega nub in under it (after having a panic about it, see my 'fettling the 906' thread elsewhere) So I'm sure your fancy hop units are better than the stock unit - without a shadow of a doubt - but the stock one ain't that bad if it can work with the better nub and rubber (for the massive investment of ~£10) to lift 0.32s Edit: the cheaper RA hop unit is £30 but the Maxx is £70. Ouch. I had another go with the gun, put up a target and blasted some of the 0.32s at it to see how it did. The Eotech was off-zero (having been taken off and then put back on) but the group was a very nice 2" / 5cm group at 15m, pretty good considering it was a red dot rather than a scope, and there was a bit of wind. I think I was at 3/3.5" when I last did that with 0.28s Is there something to the idea that hop rubbers "wear in"?

Just a hint of caution from own personal, and recent, experience : if you have an M4 slung across your back, and it's banging around against your webbing, it's quite possible to pop a mag out. I'm sure an experienced person would get it sorted out so the mag release was away from the body / webbing etc, and slung correctly so it wouldn't move around too much, but obviously I was not that man ;/