Alimcd

I’d be tempted to put a smudge of silicone grease around the hop rubber inside of the hop unit to prevent any potential leaks. Less is more on the grease. Could be the gas routers not quite contacting the nozzle as Hamster mentioned earlier. I’ve got a couple of Novristch ones spare you’re welcome to if you want to test that? Ali

Ooof I’ll feel that one for days! Just saw the offcut of carbon viny in my photo. It hails from the time I wrapped an M14 stock... Now that was heresy

Got that compensator from Elite. The rather plain jane Infinity build is really growing on me.

Collecting the freshly engraved receiver in the morning. After dropping off my bits, one of the Oxford Colleges dropped a huge job in the engraver's lap so it's taken a bit longer than normal. Not fussed, not going to be playing for a while! Can't wait to see how it's come out. Next step will be Cerakote.

Bit of a noob error with the new BBU. The gun was double feeding after the first shot, with the next rolling out of the barrel. I've removed the 120% recoil spring and stuck a stock one back in and its problem solved. I assume the slide/nozzle was returning with too much force and pushing the BB too far into the hop bucking with the 120% spring. Also, due to absolute boredom, got in touch with Mike at Elite about STI logos. ended up buying a Chris Custom Compensator...

Awesome, I hope that’s problem solved.

That’s way more reasonable than I was expecting for a BBU. The rocket valve assembly is all in the loading nozzle. As long as it closes when pressed in, it’s unlikely to be the cause of the issue. Might be worth double checking with bespoke that the BBU assembly comes complete with the piston head. I’d be surprised if it didn’t but lots of daft things happen in Airsoft EDIT - Just followed your link for the BBU. It doesn’t look like it comes with the piston head. I’d ask them for a complete BBU + piston head.

Just before you do, Not all BBU’s are the same size/shape. I’ve struggled to get WE/KJ/elite to fit with certain slides etc and had to do a lot of filing etc. I’d go down the repair route first. Hi-capa parts are a minefield and you can easily end up spending more on the replacement parts than the entire bloody pistol. (See my Novristch SSP1 thread as a prime example!) If you end up with a new BBU (25-30) and it needs a different nozzle due to tolerances (10-20) and the new nozzle needs a stiffer nozzle spring (5) It does look like there’s a ridge for an o ring. If you can get a seal there, I suspect the low FPS issue will be solved. EDIT- If you do want to replace it, Maybe try a TM unit as a first step? http://www.eliteshootingcentre.co.uk/Gas Guns/Gas Pistol Parts/Items/TM slide stop.htm

Picked up a CCT lightweight BBU for the handgun formerly known as Novristch. Awesome design. Brilliant airseal with an elite nozzle and the smallest O ring. Had to file the nozzle’s guide fins a smidge to get it moving smoothly but less than a minutes work. The ports on the piston head seems clever. Extra 6g weight saving means that the slide and BBU combo is now lighter than a stock plastic TM set. With Red gas and a short stroke kit installed it really moves!

EDIT - BBU = Blow back unit My suspicion echoes what Mr Hamster has said. I had a similar issue recently and it was the bolt that held the shaft inside of the bbu had loosened. It’s relatively easy to get to, you’ll need the slide off. Remove the guide rod and barrel assembly. Loosen off the bolt at the rear of the slide and top bolt if there is one. The Bbu will either drop out of the slide at this point or you’ll have to gently push at the nozzle to get it out. Dont lose your nozzle spring when the BBU drops out! Pull and lift the nozzle out of the BBU housing and you should be able to have a gander at the piston/o ring assembly. Check the seal when reassembling and give it some silicone While you’ve got the nozzle out, it’s worth testing that the floor valve is moving freely. You can gently push the valve through the nozzle with a small Allen key or similar. It should spring back when pushed and should spring an Allen key across a desk... Ali

Combat Union master race

What’s the model number of the 2011 style model? Got a spare frame kicking about...

Funnily enough, I was actually having a read up on hard chrome plating earlier... Ill have a spare TM frame if Kyle manages to find me a black adv 4.3 frame for the Battlecat 4.3 (when it arrives). If I do, I’m going full shiny. You’re spot on, the tub has all the dressings for the 4.3, internals are in another box to stop em getting dusty I’ve got some carbon wrap kicking about somewhere. It wouldn’t be hard to carbon fibre the CCT grip that’s currently on the Infinity. I’ll have to pick up the phone to someone to have a chat about the chrome I think a bad idea has just matured

What started as a quest to unfuck a Novristch SSP1 has now turned into four separate Hi-capas... (4th is in pieces atm)

Can’t wait to get out and about and try some of the cqb sites in the wild. Going to try and sneak in a woodland game before Cqb to make sure hop etc are actually working. Can’t wait until it’s responsible to do so! (Little group shot with a sneaky “coming soon” parts tin)

Still not quite sure how this happened but here’s my spare parts build Infinity 5.1 Railed frame from a WE 3.8 given a coat of Graphite black Cerakote. In person it’s much closer to the colour of the slide. Ive got a black infinity grip on its way from HK to finish up the build.

That's definitely it's new name. "The pistol formerly known as Novritsch" The ink worked exactly as you said it would. Brought back memories from painting Undead from the early noughties as the ink just ran into all the details. Going to pick some white up for an M14 thats currently being engraved and then off to be cerakoted in midnight blue. I know what you mean about testing. I've been putting all these "upgrade" parts into gnus and testing things at pointblank into a chrono or maximum 5m into a foam target. Everything is running ML Autobots but I havent had the chance to see if the hop pressure is even in the same postcode as where it needs to be set! What's your local site?

Because lockdown sucks and I’m very bored, I took @alxndrhlladvice and picked up some liquitex ink to infill the engravings on the Speedcat. Very happy with how it came out! I also treated myself to a .40 S&W barrel from Mike at Elite to match the .40 markings on the slide. Neurosis calmed...

Just had a little parcel in the post that (hopefully) punctuates me finishing arsing around with the Novristch. Built with the Newbury Z adventures site in mind here is my SSP1 in its current guise. As you can see, lockdown has been unsafe for both my wallet and my mental health. I went back to a short stroke set up on this one. It’s got 4 CCT buffers in there, taking a fair bit off the travel of the slide. The lightweight BBU and frame are comparable in weight to a TM slide+BBU and this is working happily here in the cold with green gas. Feels and sounds much better on Red mind! Internally, it’s rocking an elite BBU and nozzle which give a great air seal. The stock Novristch barrel still seems fine but I replaced the hop unit for a AIP cnc jobby (no performance difference). The guide rod got swapped out for an Airsoft Masterpiece one simply to be shiny and the recoil spring swapped out for a 120% one. There’s the obligatory ML bucking to cap it off. Thanks again to Mark at FMJUK for the awesome jobs he’s done for me Cerakote wise Edit - same as before but photos aren’t dog poo

You can pick up Zenitco clone 74u top sight mounts cheaply these days. The b18 mounts directly to and allows for optics to be placed directly above the existing rear sight. It’ll look much better than a Heath Robinson job imho

Once you’ve found the insert that best fits the trigger guard and shaped the various Velcro arms around the body of the pistol, it’ll be snug as a bug in a rug. Ive given it a good torture test and not had any issues. The hard plastic paddle holsters scare me now, after managing to brush the paddle and my sidearm did a runner mid sprint! To disengage the warrior, you need to tuck a thumb into the inner edge, so I doubt it’ll randomly eject!

Tell me about it! I haven’t played for 11 months now and I’m going totally batshit. Going back to the holster stuff. I picked up one of these earlier this year. It’s a knock off IPSC style universal holster and it SEEMS pretty much perfect. Given that it cost £15 and it’s plastic, I’m expecting it to explode halfway through its first outing but I think it’s pretty cool none the less (edit, the more photos I post, the more I realise I must tidy and hoover my workshop)

Definitely agree that you should get it dirty first! More than anything, it sets a bar. Between Tackle, Davegolf, Adolfhamster and SittingDuck there’s no problem you can cause that they can’t diagnose and steer you toward a solution. YouTube wise, Negativeairsoft is worth a watch for UK velocity related advice. As I learned, our relatively low limits cause new headaches that other markets don’t have to worry about. The golden rule of teching is: Dont do anything until you’ve got a second gun in the boot of the car to resort to in the worst case scenario!

Essentially three ways to get a three round burst and two of them give a degree of trigger adjustment. 1.) Replace the X-ASR mosfet and wiring with a Gate Warfet or Merf. These have a programmable burst mode that is adjusted in increments of a few milliseconds. You can use the existing trigger and the resoldering job is a cakewalk. The Warfet would also allow you to precock the spring to reduce the cycling time in semi. 2.) Mosfets with Optical Sensors. Fets like the Titan use optical sensors to detect when cycles of the sector gear have been completed. Tell it you want it to complete three cycles when set to full auto and you’re done. They also use a sensor for the trigger mechanism and the sensitivity can be adjusted. 3.) Microswitch based mosfets. The Jefftron Leviathan uses microswitches instead of optical sensors. As the sector gear rotates the part that normally engages the cut off lever clicks the switch to confirm the cycle. Tell it three cycles when set to safe/semi/auto and you’re down. The trigger itself is replaced at the same time for once that actuates a microswitch and its travel can be reduced using a simple grub screw. Bob’s your Mother’s brother

Just found this from before I put the 7” outer barrel on. Very excited video from just after fitting a Jefftron Leviathan. Knowing what I do know, I’d just grab another Gate Warfet/Merf and save the difference. Playing a lot of woodland stuff, 3-5rd bursts are super handy to get through foliage. High rps builds and holding the trigger down, well that’s wanker territory This is why it’s called Bert Back on subject, hope you’re as fond of the warrior holster as I am of mine. Perfect choice if you can see a few other pistols creeping into your arsenal, like a 1911 pattern gun you’re clearly coming around to liking the look of... IMG_6949.MOV