CoCost

Cheers everyone, I've got a pin-spanner on order now which should do the job nicely 👍 I'll update the thread documenting the entire pin-replacement process (and the tools used) once everything arrives CoCost

Firstly I wanted to preface this by saying, I wasn't entirely sure exactly where this thread would/should belong, so apologies in advanced to the forum mods if it's in the wrong section (if so please move accordingly). In short my question is as follows; "Does anyone know what specific tool is required to unscrew the APS Cam870 (MK3/MKIII) bolt pin retaining plate?" _______________ The longer story; So recently I've been working on trying to finish my custom M-41A Pulse Rifle (dw, I'll document that entire build process elsewhere once finished ), but I've unfortunately since encounter a rather annoying issue. When showcasing the build to some peers I happened to notice that the APS Cam870 (MK3/MKIII) that was installed inside the PR some time back was no longer feeding shells properly!! After a tediously long process of dismantling, inspecting and attempting to reassemble/reinstall everything I finally found the issue; Namely that the Cam870s internal bolt pin had deformed over time!! Apparently a well know issue as a result of dry firing them (wish I'd know this beforehand). Prior to just giving up replacing the entire Cam870 bolt (which is still an option, they're relatively cheap), I found that APS do also sell a "reinforced firing-pin". As such I figured I'd see if I could simply replace the part that was causing the problems, but unfortunately I personally have no idea and have not been able to find any additional info regarding the specific tool(s) used to unscrew this plate! Any information that anyone could provide regarding the specifically required tool(s) needed to disassemble and ultimately fix this part would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advanced CoCost

A few retails might still have stock of the original TR-1 kits, but believe AngryGun had to stop producing these after the first run. Probably due to unlicensed copyright issues! Since then they (a/k/a AngryGun) re-released a new MWS TR-1 kit and other TTI goods, all of which are officially licensed by EMG. However, these newer kits appear to be based around the retail version of the TTI TR-1, whereas the original AG kits were based on the actual TR-1 movie variant that was seen in John Wick 2. Be careful as their are a few notable differences in both furniture and markings between these two kits, as well as in quality (older kits supposedly had better QA). Best bet would probably be looking for an older version of the kit second hand on a marketplace or retailer somewhere.

You might have more luck by checking the Japanese sites/marketplaces like Yahoo Auctions. They tend to have a LOT of second-hand RS stuff for sale there, including a lot of HK parts. Waiting and looking for the specific item you are searching for can unfortunately take a while, but just stick at it and you'll eventually find what you need. Once you have found what your looking for, you can then use services such as "JapanRabbit" to import them from Japan. Just make sure you add the note "FOR USE WITH AIRSOFT" in the description!!! As long as you aren't importing restricted parts (i.e. load-bearing RS parts, etc), and just sticking to furniture/accessories, you shouldn't have any real problems.

Have been working on this for a few years now and still missing a few minor bits, but getting closer and closer to a screen accurate "TTI TR-1 Ultimate Ultralight AR-15" from JohnWick Chapter 2. Base gun is an MWS, the receiver and barrel set are from the old AG kit, internals are a bit of a mix, but everything else than can be RS is RS (Real-Steel). Only thing I cant bloody find is the throw-lever (ac20007) ? -

My Pulse-Rifle already contains a WE m1a1 GBBR and a chopped up APS Cam870! If I can add one of these RS spas cage to the mix [hoping so ?] then it's going to be a workout just picking the dam thing up ? Not gunna lie, would look cool AF tho.

Colour me interested! I would certainly be wanting one of these for my PR build as well ? It's been my experience that RS heat-shields and other Spas12 stuff, even replicas, are like gold-dust nowadays.

Awesome work! Looking great so far. If you need it, or are interested, there are a ton of additional body mods that can be done to the snow wolf or G&P kits to make them look more like the screen version. Just search "Snow Wolf Pulse Rifle mods" on Thingverse ?

I think it would be absolutely fine! All of the MWS barrel adapters are very similar as they are essentially just a spacer that's designed to stop the outer barrel sliding out the front of the barrel nut. They should allow you to install most AEG spec rails. For example, using a barrel adapter [unsure which one] I put the Madbull DD Block II rail onto one of my MWS's with no problems.

Good morning, Wondering if any of you lovely people could potentially help me out by recommending a UK based tech who is capable of doing some modifications to a rail system I have. Im specifically looking for someone who could cut-down a Madbull Mk18 (12.5") rail and modify it into something akin to the length and style of the infamous DD GL/SSC Block II rail. I know there are some US based people who happen to offer similar services [Chop-Boss], albeit for RS rails, however I would ideally like to avoid the hassle of importing RS parts wherever possible. Thanks in advance ?

Although it's currently out of stock, your best bet is to order from a UK retailer like Brownells. https://www.brownells.co.uk/VIPER-PDW-STOCK-1 Never had any problems with these guys personally. I do however usually mention in the order comments that any parts bought there are used for airsoft....Just in case. Might want to check with other members regarding compatibility as I doubt the buffer tube that come with this will fit, but the stock itself should be fine.

I was in the same boat, but much to my surprise they did indeed removed ALL the wobble. The cross-bolts are a lot thicker than the one that comes with the clone rails. Although I initially didn't think it was going to work, they did fit very snuggly into the gap on the barrel nut. Would also recommend using some kind of lubricant to prevent any sheering as it is a pretty tight fit. Anyone had any experiences [good or bad] buying direct from ruten.com.tw? Found a TR-25 Accupoint scope [clone] from modelworks615, but hesitant to sink that much money as never used them or that platform before ?Still, a ton cheaper than a real one!

I too had the exact same issue! Annoying AF. I initially patched it by wrapping the barrel nut in some tape so it would fit snug with both the handrail and cross-bolts, but that was a short lived fix. The wobble returned and wore away at the tape after a hundred or so rounds ? Im sure some of the licensed/practiced gun-smiths could probably provide a better quick-fix solution for this. The best fix I found was to replace the cross-bolts with ones from a real-steal BCM, as they are a LOT thicker. I ordered mine direct from the states a while back, but you can get them from BCM (US) or in the KRM install kit from Brownells (UK). https://bravocompanyusa.com/bcm-kmr-cross-bolts-kit-set-of-2 https://www.brownells.co.uk/BCM-KRM-HANDGUARD-INSTALLATION-KIT On another note. Was testing out my Ace1Arms Pmags [they really quiet good IMO] only to have my AngryGun MPA nozzle spring fire out of the barrel ? Anyone know where I can get a spare for this rather than buying a whole new Nozzle?

Pretty sure these will only work on compatible Pmags (Ace1 or IronAirsoft). The standard TM mags don't have the removable base plates that these are used to replace. Think JKAirsoft and a few other HK retailers have the Ace1 Pmags back in stock. https://shop.jkarmy.com/ace-one-arms-saa-m-style-35-rds-magazine-for-tm-mws-bk-de.html Also, if anyone is considering getting a BCM clone rail I would HIGHLY recommend getting a set of the real-steal fixing/cross bolts to secure it. From personal experience the ones that come with both the Dytak and AngryGun rails are pretty cheap and, if not tightened correctly, can cause a small amount of very annoying wobble.