SSPKali

I have updated my long post above with the LOW power setting as I had some time today. Unfortunately after setting it back to HIGH and checking it on the chrono the back of the DP nozzle sheared off ? So I popped the set up in the TM nozzle and tested it - with all TM parts it was putting out 220fps on HIGH. (0.30g BBs, Nuprol Green) I put in the DP valve and spring and it went up to 261fps. Then, because my day couldn't really get worse*, I sanded 0.1mm off the "pegs" on the front of the G&P valve stop. High jumped from 261 to 296fps (+35fps) and Medium went up to 263fps (+22fps) This means that Medium is a useful power on green gas on 14degC days, and High can be used in winter conditions. I think that Low might still be a bit under powered but never mind! Now lets hope that my TM nozzle survives tomorrows game! JKArmy and Eagle6 are sorting me out with a nozzle, G&P roller bolt, little bolt roller and pin so I have a complete drop in spare ready to go ? *EOTech clone that arrived didn't work and when I tried to unscrew the cap to try another battery it wouldn't budge (not x-threaded) and then sheared the compartment off in the body.

Fire Support were as speedy as usual and the G&P adjustable valve stop was delivered today. TL;DR: 3 easy settings to tune to temps / gas - but may not play nice with stock TM parts, more testing needed. Overview: It comes with an o-ring to fit the "firing pin" end of the nozzle spring. Also included is a little grenade pin to help locate the valve stop and align the screw hole. There are 3 sets of holes for the screw to fit, each a slightly different distance from the front meaning you have a low, medium and high setting as this controls how far back (or forward) the rocket valve sits. Kind of like a 3 step NPAS, but not interfering with the valve function and no chance of unscrewing and firing a grub screw down the barrel! The brass body has some subtle flats machined into it meaning that it doesn't rotate as you push it down the nozzle to getting the correct hole lined up is easy. The pin makes it easier to locate as it is a snug (but not tight) fit in some nozzles and has to be perfectly straight to seat properly. Testing: First I tested my stock TM bolt set up (TM bolt, nozzle, valve, valve spring, Dynamic Precision upgraded nozzle spring set & green piston cup) to get a baseline with 0.30g on ASG gas at 14degC gave an average of 273fps (6fps spread) I then used that exact set up with the G&P valve stop and it gave the following average FPS: Low - 61, Medium - 152, High - 230. Yes, those are FEET per second, not meters! Great if you want to run black gas in the middle of a heatwave I guess??? Seems that it didn't play nice with the TM nozzle/valve for what ever reason. One day, when I have time, I will revisit this and try to pin down the issue, I am guessing the internal bore of the TM nozzle is the issue but I can't say for sure at this stage. I then tested a set up I knew would increase the FPS - Premium Aftermarket Setup (Same TM bolt; Dynamic Precision nozzle, alloy valve, valve spring, upgraded nozzle spring & green piston cup) Low - 145fps, Medium - 240fps, High - 277fps. That is more like it! The consistency was also really good, I think from previous testing that this is down to the allow DP valve (3fps spread!). The medium setting will be great for running it in the summer (c. 20degC) or in cooler temps on Red gas. I am guessing the low will be around the 200-210fps mark so probably not that useful unless you have loads of Nuprol Black gas kicking about. Summary: A nicely made bit of kit that does exactly what it should and gives enough adjustment for UK weather and gas options. I just need to work out why it hated the TM nozzle, valve and valve spring so much! YMMV. Pictures: Blue background - G&P nozzle stop kit, Red background - Dynamic Precision valve

Mine was a v1, but there is no way I am giving them any more money for a v2! Using customers as paying r&d / putting out shoddy products is not acceptable.

Yeah it was the AG nozzle and components. With out some fettling with a file the internals lack the flat sides that the TM nozzle bore had. I have ordered a G&P valve stopper (that attaches to the front of the nozzle spring) as it has 3 different sets of holes drilled in it for the tiny Phillips screw to locate in - each hole allows the stop to sit forward (lower power), in the middle, or further back (higher power). Zero chance of self-adjusting or doing odd things to the valve flow Hopefully this alomg with the DP valve will give consistent results, as before, but allow low-med-high power tuning for varying temps. Yeah velocity will vary once the mag settles down, and if you fire shots quickly there will be some cool-down and drop in pressure. I have found that the spread of velocities is worse with 0.20g. Heavier ammo seems to keep the variance smaller. I would say +/- 8 fps between shots is good, and it will probably drop 20 to 25fps over a mag full. Makes next to no difference to accuracy / performance.

Just tried to set up my spare Dynamic Precision bolt with an AG nozzle set up - absolute tosh. FPS was +/- 18 and all over the place! Replaced it with DP nozzle (very tough, dense feeling plastic, all DP springs) and RATech Black NPAS and it is much more efficient and FPS is pretty consistent. I will be taking the springs and screws out of the AG valve as back-up last-ditch spares and binning the rest!

Dynamic Precision MWS rocket valve test. Purchsed from the great people at Fire Support. https://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/dynamic-precision-enhanced-nozzle-valve-for-marui-m4a1-mws It looks a lot like the polymer TM one but is made from Aluminium. It fits nicely in the nozzle and works with the TM spring. Testing it in direct comparison to the TM set up with ASG gas and 0.30g BBs there was an average gain of 8fps, but a reduction in fluctuations between shots (+/-4fps, vs +/-7fps with the TM valve) Switching to the stronger DP spring gave the expected jump in output, raising to an average of 293fps (285fps limit on most fields with 0.30g) Bottom line is that it is probably easier to get one of these than the TM one, and in doing so it won't change the gun too much. I plan to fix a thin disc to the back to try and drop the fps while using the stronger spring so I can have this in the DP lightweight bolt I have spare.

Solid work ?? I notice that there isn't a linear relationship between the 0.30g and 0.20g results - Take for example the TM bolt set up with an average of 285fps on a 0.30g, the same energy 0.20g BB should be going about 350fps....but the result is only about 320fps. I guess this is to do with the acceleration of heavier BBs, time to clear the barrel and effect on how fast the rocket valve closes. In all AEGs I have tested shooting at 285fps with 0.30g will always fire a 0.20g at 350fps just by changing the ammo weight. So well below the limit if tested at a site on 0.20g BB, but as soon as you put in 0.30gs to play and it might be (slightly) over the limit ? UPDATE: I have just tested my stock bolt/nozzle MWS with both 0.20g and 0.30g BBs (same brand, ASG gas, 11degC in the shed) and found that over 10 shots: 0.20g BB = 312 fps / 0.9 Joules 0.30g BB = 270 fps / 1.02 Joules 0.36g BB = 244 fps / 1.0 Joules ***UPDATED*** Looks like the short barrel and valve design keeps the power within Japanese limits even with very heavy ammo (IIRC TMs' are designed around 0.25g) ***UPDATED*** If I "adjust" the 0.30g BBs to equate them to 0.20g giving the same power predicted average is 331 fps, about 20fps difference I have a Dynamic Precision valve coming with my FireSupport order so will give that a try with the exact same set up and see what difference the alloy (heavier) valve will make. I am guessing a boost to the power / fps.

I found that the little valve spring can make a big difference. I tried the set up with the well used TM spring and a newer, stiffer and longer (Ooh matron!) RATech one. The RA tech spring gave another 10-15fps as it kept the valve open longer. I am guessing that might explain the difference along with minor variations in hop applied and chrono tollerences.

Today was my designated tinkering day with the MWS before my first post-lockdown game next Sunday at Spartan Woodland, Bristol. I have set the MWS up with all stock bolt, nozzle and valve (NOTE: I have taken 0.15mm off the back of the valve to up the output to about 10fps). Running 0.30g BBs through a CrazyJet 250mm barrel, Modify tan bucking and Laylax hop arm. The shed was a balmy 13degC (or there abouts) and the mags and gas were all at ambient temperature. I gave each mag a 5sec fill, in bursts of 1s and then left for 5mins to let the temp settle. Each gas was given 5 shots over the chrono, with 1s gaps. I often finished up with some full auto to check on cool-down. ***All FPS given as 0.20g BB equivalents*** Nuprol WHITE = 330fps. Still very snappy shooting and not much cool down after 20rd full auto! Nuprol GREEN = 340fps. Benchmark for regular "green" gas. Does cool down a bit. Nuprol RED = 395fps. Eek, well over the limit so I would keep for days when the temps are in single digits. Abbey Vertex Predator = 341fps. Apparently a "powerful gas for heavy weapons" - or just another green gas in an orange can ASG Ultrair = 340fps. Pretty much the same as any other green gas, but Patrolbase have a "Two for £10" offer so I have 8 cans of the damn stuff! Interesting that the difference in Nuprol WHITE and GREEN is only 10fps. I purchased that can for an old TM MP7 I had that (with a tight bore barrel) was WAAAAY too hot to use. That dropped the fps by 20-30 IIRC. Maybe the MWS is just a very efficient system? I checked the accuracy and zeroed the Visionking LPVO scope. 34mm group at 12m bench rested. Should be ok for hitting man sized target at 20-50m.

I can't recall a specific issue with the barrels but I and others have had endless issues with gas nozzles / NPAS, buffer tubes, rails and rail nuts, supressors/flash hiders, charging handles, bolt catches and mag releases.....

The issues seem to be that they "sort of" fit...if you are lucky. And if they do fit they might actually make things work worse than the stock ones.

I would check on the customs fee and VAT thing, it is your property being moved between countries for your own use. No different to taking a suitcase of clothes on holiday with you I would see about using a shipping firm (as used to move peoples belongings when emigrating) rather than a commercial courier who seem to slap spurious charges on everything and have awful customer service!

2nd hand Cyma CM041 highspeed stripped of the dark green / black camo paint. Re-shimmed gears, already short stroked 4 teeth on the sector gear so took 4 off the rack to prevent PEM. Wired in a Gate MERF mosfet to the rear (loads of room in the stock) new air nozzle (worst part of any Cyma!) and threw in a Maple Leaf hop rubber and nub. G&P front end with LED torch, I have some 2mm lexan coming to make a lens protector for the inevitable CQB shoot out ? Shooting 340fps (+/- 2fps) on 0.20g and 19rps on a 7.4v I could run an 11.1v but I don't need 27rps!

A lot like this! 1?

Best way of filling any gas mag is in 1s bursts. Fill for 1sec, stop, wait a couple of seconds then give it another 1sec burst of gas. Keep doing this until full. Should be able to top off the mag that way! Give that a go and see how many shots you get from 12x 1sec fills

The outer barrel set you linked to seems to include the adaptor ring?! Might be worth emailing / calling Firesupport to check...they are really helpful.

I have just done some work on my AEG and I had forgotten how horrible stripping and working on a M4 with v2 gearbox was! Now short stroked 3 teeth, new motor and M110 spring. Not going to open it again until it fails!

I would guess that might be because it is rebounding faster than the heavier TM bolt? The same buffer spring will accelerate it faster. I will be interested to see what they say. Adding a wrap of leccy tape around the tab on the part of the bolt release that the mag follower presses might help? I have a UAC lightweight bolt but haven't had issues, but I have only run it on Green and Red gas in +15degC temps.

The Hao stuff is amazing quality and built to proper tollerences rather than the "may fit, but then again who knows" that other manufacturers seem to use. Plus the time to develop, test and make these limited runs mean that the % of the costs that need recouping from each one is pretty high. If they could shift thousands of them the price would come down ? TBH it is just a toy gun and no one needs anything better than a CM16 but if you have the means why not get something that floats your boat?

I shoot a rifle left handed as my right eye sight is really bad, but I shoot pistol right handed / left eye. The worst part of right-handed / left eye is trying to set up your belt to manage both! No way I can get my pistol AND M4 mags AND bfg on the right, with pistol mags on the left and dump pouch....who knows where! Chest rigs and no side arm are the way forward for sure!

Unless you are using tonnes of paint they should be fine....no 1L tins of Hammerite brush-on! Some people tape off the SAFE - SEMI - AUTO to make it more readable after paint but I have never done that and as long as you only use a light coating of paint I have never had an issue with the function of safety / mag release / etc...

Measure the hole it fell out of and round up to the next whole number (Eg if it is a 3.4mm hole = M4 grub screw) ? Buy a bag of the correct sized ones from Ebay and pop a blob of thread lock on before fitting ?

He says the WE one (silver) which with out some sanding is too large a diameter to work in a TM nozzle. The black TM one is a drop-in fit. I posted a loooong post on this a while back (last summer) where I tested various bolts, nozzles and NPAS for consistency.