SSPKali

It probably won’t wear the nozzle guide much as it will naturally roll the hop wheel and not scrape across it. A non-destructive way of testing would be to put a long strip of gaffer tape in the channel in the upper receiver that the charging handle runs in. That will move the bolt down a hair and may stop the issue. Then at least you know the likely cause and can always peel the tape out after testing.

I think the “gas key” is the nub at the top of that part that fits in the underside of the charging handles. Obviously there are slight differences between the firearm and airsoft M4 designs so not a direct comparison 👍

Hao put the sticker on the upper left face of the BCG (opposite side to the ejection port) it probably needs less than 1mm removing, best to take a little off and try rather than going mad with the angle grinder! I have experienced it with certain combinations of nozzle guides and charging handles. The old worn TM guide and handle was bad for it. Once replaced and the sharp edge taken off the cut out I have had zero issues

The part circled in red is the cut out for the hop up wheel. To make more room you can either carefully file out some more or make the bolt carrier and nozzle guide run “lower” in the upper receiver. Hao achieves this with their BCG stickers for example.

The hop seems to be adjusting itself. This could be the nozzle guide on the top of the bolt carrier rubbing the hop wheel as it moves forward. There should be a small scalloped section, try fettling that a bit and see if that sorts it. the cup seal on the nozzle seems to be causing excessive drag on the nozzle (yes properly lubricated) Some cup seals do that, the Dynamic Precision green ones are great and don’t do this. occasionally an extra BB will just roll out of the barrel. This is likely due to the hop being turned off by the nozzle guide. When the BB is chambered there isn’t enough friction to hold it and it rolls out. Tackle this issue last if it is still occurring.

Fobus IWB from Tactical Kit. Took some heating in hot water and work with sandpaper to ensure the WE G19 fitted properly and I could get the damn thing out again 😂 Craghoppers shirt was good enough for Obi Wan Nairobi so will stand up to anything I put it through 😎

* Glock 19 in IWB * Three spare mags (5.11 Defender jeans extra pockets) * Torch Plenty for CQB games if you don’t go trigger happy.

First thing I would check is pull the bolt and charging handle out and check it and the inner of the receiver for sticking points, burrs and that it is suitably lubricated. While it is apart check the action of the “hammer” and sears that they move and reset smoothly. Some GT85 or similar aerosol teflon spray will help loosen things up. Then check how high the mag is sitting and if the mag gas router is catching on the underside of the nozzle or the bolt carrier.

I missed the last one as I could not find any details and my emails went unanswered. Will look out for the next one as I have a couple of big boxes of kit to shift!

I have found that Bolle Cobra glasses with antifoam wipe (Revision, as above) never fog with me (not that sweaty compared to some) Available in clear, yellow, grey and other lens colours for under £15 but they will stop 6Joule steel BBs DeltaMike face pro for outdoor games, but after some cheek / nose shots <5m in CQB I have a NB Tactical Mk2 mask that I am holding in place with just some 4mm elastic and a cord lock. They will sell you a mesh snood / balaclava for £30+ but that seems to cause fogging and doesn't keep it as secure!

Ahh OK, I think that might be to do with the hop chambers, barrel cut outs and general build quality. Plus pushing 0.36g BBs in an AEG needs some BIG cylinder volume and spring pressure (same for HPA set ups, higher PSI and volume) and then you are still using a hop unit designed for 0.25g BBs at 1J....

okay...this might be a long post! With AEGs you have a fixed cylinder volume and spring speed. This is usually matched to barrel length / diameter and BB weight you want to use (others can chime in with formulas and typical set ups) With a GBBR when the trigger is pulled the gas is vented down the barrel, and as there is a BB in the way it is at a high pressure. This keeps the rocket valve open and gas going down the barrel. Once the BB leaves the muzzle the pressure drops, the rocket valve closes and vents the gas backwards to cycle the bolt. Now BB weight influences how much energy can be imparted to it (assuming barrel, gas, temperature, etc remain the same) If someone gave you a pingpong ball and a golf ball (same diameter, ignore the dimples, you are not throwing that hard!) and asked you to throw them as far as possible, which would go further? The golf ball, being heavier, allows you to transfer more energy into it from your arm. Light BBs tend to leave the barrel too soon before maximum energy is transferred to them. So a GBBR with light ammo would be better with a much longer barrel (as it will have longer time to be accelerated, remember gas continues to vent until it exits the end of the muzzle) but would require more gas volume and still end up with less range. So a short barrel will limit time to transfer power (which is why TM use 250mm barrels to suit Japans 1J hard limit and 0.25g BBs used) Heavier BBs work better as they have the same cross section / drag as light BBs, can get more angular momentum (hop) and lose energy slower than 0.20g so go further. Time to target is negligible difference until much further out where 0.20g probably won't reach. I have 0.28g and 0.32g for my GBBR, the lighter ones to "Joule creep" the power down on hot days. This is why you chrono on the weight you use as if I used 0.20g BBs it would be 0.6J, not the 1.05J the 0.32g give me!

But the Federal one is just a copy of the AngryGun one with the “pegs” at the back rotated 90deg to work with a regular valve stop. If it works as well as my modded AG one they will be more consistent and easier to adjust than the RA Tech ones