paradoxum

Does anyone have any data on the stress points in the gearbox? For example, I was thinking, the spur gear for example is bottom heavy and usually not shimmed up much, whereas the top side is just the shaft and opposite the side taking the most stress from the bevel gear, right? So what about putting a bushing on the bottom, and a bearing on the top? And how about the other gears, bushings on side of bevel gear with the teeth, bearing on the other side? Maybe bearings both sides of the sector? Has anyone mix/matched before like this, any data out there on whether there would be a benefit? I'd like to try it - I might - someday - even sit down one day and mix/match them in lots of different ways and then check for RPS with each setup and log everything - don't suppose anyone has done that before? Edit: I found this on retroarms: https://www.retroarms.com/news/the-difference-between-bushings-and-bearings I think I am going to try: Bevel - bushing on gear side, bearing other Spur - as above Sector - bushing on side that grabs piston, bearing opposite

paste flux do you mean? I didn't know there were different kinds. I'll get that 40g tin then. Got a liter of 99.9% iso alch already, great for cleaning gears and gearbox when doing a clean start build. Thanks for the cheaper sponges, but I need something that' gonna hold them, like https://www.amazon.co.uk/Soldering-Cleaner-Wire-Type-Holder-Cleaning/dp/B07MHSTGRW/

There's an electronic store around the corner that I took my Titan to last week to have him solder new wire to the board, I suppose I could take it to him and see what he says. At the same time I think I'm going to have him put all new XT60 (prefer to deans) on all my batteries / cabling, because I'm aiming for optimum efficiency and some of my solder jobs look so terrible that they must be causing resistence in the wiring. I need a new tub of flux, some of that metal cleaning wire stuff, basically all the bits except solder, SRA Rosin Paste Flux #135 with a Soldering Iron Tip Cleaner with Brass Coils https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B098PYNNDP/ Thermaltronics TMT-TC-2 Lead Free Tip Tinner (20g) https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00NS4J6BY MG Chemicals Desoldering Braid #4 Fine Braid Super Wick with RMA Flux, 5' Length x 0.1" Width, Blue https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B008O9VLA2/ Seem like the best 'budget' options available, and even that is more than I can really afford right now. Edit: Just picked up the braid since I noticed that was cheap and I have prime. will save me from cutting wires shorter and shorter every time I replace a plug or something.

Yeah I have like three of them. I've never been able to get them to work. I only even heard about braid recently which is weird because i've been soldering for years, need to get some of that. And I did have an iron with an adjustable temp knob, but it took forever to heat up and eventually broke, and I just love the lack of the wire getting in the way with the gas one. It is adjustable too, but obviiously it's just analogue adjustment.

Oh ok that's what I figured, and yeah might aswell, would be interesting if he figured it out just so I know what it was.

Well what happened was I soldered one of the red wires to it, and then when I tried to just stick the other one on to the same blob I had down, the other wire came off, I had to put more solder on to get that solder to melt so I could fix the first wire, and blabla by the time I got both on there was a load of solder, if I had decent helping hands that actually kept things in place it would help - also a magnifying glass setup on it too - but anyway they were on solid and it wasn't touching anything it shouldn't so at that point I just leave it to avoid making it worse.

I'll be the first to admit I'm terrible at soldering. I can't keep my hands steady at all. Gave up painting WH40k because of it. Shit I hope it's not early parkinsons.. But also those connection points are absolutely tiny and I had to solder tiny wires to them while avoiding all the other solder points and avoiding burning out any more trace with the iron, doesn't help that I need a good pair of Helping Hands too since this adjustable 'spider' one is trash. Any recommendations for a good soldering workstation or something? I was thinking of this, but it's super expensive, there must be some chinese copy out there: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B08QZ48T28/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_8?smid=A7AHT9N61VJ59&psc=1 How do I do that? Is it just for him to tinker with or does he do repairs for coin?

It's genuine

I did a better video: so as far as I can tell the actual board with the plugs is completely fine, so the problem must be elsewhere further down the line, and that balance connector board won't help at all.

Alright, I'll get that if I can't fix this + the balance breakout board thing doesn't work (Don't have high hopes but could still be useful with any charger). I recorded a video of me testing the continuity with all the pins, can someone check it looks good?

I just found a video on that and was about to check them:

Thing is, the amount of money I spend on my guns, I'm not gona skimp when it comes to a lipo charger when they're "only" £60 (yes expensive but I see it as an investment, and well, this has been running great for like 3 years until I fubard it. If I wanted to get a new charger but a really high-end one with extra testing suites etc (planning to get a whole electronics setup with oscilloscope and everything for fine-tune testing things) any brands or ones I should look for? The higher priced ones seem to just mostly have multiple charging outlets rather than any additional features from what I can tell, and while being able to charge two at a time would be good I'd never need 4+. This is what it looks like now. I cleaned it up with iso alch and made sure there was no leftover trace or bits of solder anywhere. I burnt another trace myself by accident so I fixed that too. It was pretty easy actually. I know it looks a mess, but it all checks out with a multimeter from the pins on the 'outside' to the 6+1 solder points going from the smaller PCB to the large main one. I'll just paste what I posted on rcgroups forums asking for help:

There's no way I'm gonna skimp on a lipo charger of all things. Whole reason I got a legit IMAX to begin with. I can get one of those boards for about £5.50 on ebay. I'll try that and see if I can get balance charging working with it. Thing is, I went through every single pin / connection from the small pcb to the main one, and I have continuity in all the expecpted places, and there's no visible damage anywhere else - it was literally a split second as the wire fell down and grazed the connector pins - I doubt it did any more damage than the trace right next to it. There's an electronics store around the corner I can take it to, maybe I'm doing something dumb. I did find this though: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?2664873-iMAX-B6AC-v2-balance-connect-error Which seems to be basically the same problem but caused somehow else. Started looking at different chargers anyway. How about this one? https://www.banggood.com/Charsoon-Antimatter-250W-10A-ACDC-Balance-Charger-Discharger-For-LiPoNiCdPB-Battery-p-1068233.html?cur_warehouse=CN&rmmds=search

Well I did as much as I could and the continuity all checks out but still can't see cell2. I just turned off balance in the settings now I can charge lipos for the time being. I found this thing: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Parallel-Charging-Board-Battery-Charger/dp/B07BSHN8T2 It seems to plug into a difference balance connector on the imax, perhaps this would get around the issue and work?

Well I had a go. I soldered two of the points between the burnt trace, checked for continuity, all good. Still not working: https://streamable.com/s6r7nv Not sure what else to try. And cheap? They are like £60! Seems to be an issue detecting Cell2. Any ideas? I checked under the board and there's no blown things there.

Long story short I shorted the balance connector on my imax, took it apart and I've blown the trace on it. Is this how it should look? Or does it skip the middle one (by the looks of it?) If anyone has one and can help just take the screws off the side panels and slide it out, take a picture of that part for me? Any tips for fixing myself?

Yeah iI needed something small enough that would fit in the stock, still need to dremel out some of the inside though. https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/spektrum-2200mah-3s-11.1v-100c-smart-lipo-battery-ic3-443852

New battery came: Excited to see what RPS I can get with this + a titan which should be here thursday hopefully.

Some more glamour shots: Pretty much 100% complete on the outside now unless anyone has any suggestions.

Pretty much complete, my basically scratch-built custom gun, the Orion: I'm getting a titan and dremelling the GB to fit it in there so I can get it over 35 RPS.

Nice did he do that? I was thinking of going for something like this on my new build: This is what I have as a base: Thinking of getting a PDW9 stock, getting it cerakoted like that pic, but with touches of gold, like the MPX in the new matrix: What d'you guys think?

Lots of parts came back from Supreme Coatings today, can get my scarh, orion, and half my new build started. Here's what the ACR stock looks like with the black cheek rest: