Airsoft-Ed

I've wondered before too, though I've only ever noticed it on Combat Machines. I thought it might be some sort of QD thing for suppressors or something, to lock them and stop them rotating. Though I'm probably wrong.

Hmm, I understand your dilemma but unfortunately not. Basically to draw the winner I'm going to run a random number generator, with a limit set for the number of shares the post has had. Whatever the generator comes out with, I'll count that many names down the list and then check if that person has also liked the pages listed in the giveaway instructions. If they have, boom, winner. If they haven't, I'll repeat the process until someone ticks all the boxes. If you share something privately, it won't show for me so I can't count it. Tell you what, if you add me as a friend and find a way to set some custom privacy settings so it shows on your wall but only me and you can see it, that ought to work?

Giving a pistol away on my YouTube channel, you'll need Facebook to take part in the competition though. Details here: https://www.facebook.com/Bullet4MyEnemyYouTube/photos/a.459349840807125.1073741828.434223969986379/831755896899849/?type=1&theater

I go there too, there's also Bawtry Paintball and Laser Fields, airsoft games get run out of there by Brit-Tac Airsoft. Also not forgetting Skirmish Airsoft's CQB sites in Rotherham and Sheffield, as well as Tac House Spartan in Chesterfield.

That adaptor is for the real rail set. The Madbull rail set's adaptor doesn't require a new gasblock, just the back part. Search for Madbull rail adaptor, otherwise it won't work. Or swap your Madbull rail for a real one, or a Hornbill one, since that's a direct clone of the real thing, rather than one adapted for airsoft.

Mine is BulletForMyEnemy but it's worth noting the "ll" part is a pair of capitalised "ii"s because the name was in use =[ l'm on the PS4 too. So got no VOlP.

It's pretty simple, yeah. Field strip it to get to the bolt, undo the nozzle guides on the bolt and push the pin out holding the nozzle return spring. Once the nozzle's out, push the pin through to separate it into two halves. Drop the valve and spring out of the front half, replace with NPAS. Reassemble. Only tricky bit is lining the pins up with the nozzle return spring.

£15 NPAS valves are fine. l use them in both my WE GBBRs. No issues here in over a year.

Screw the metal nozzles they're a total waste of money. Come with their own set of issues that require you to upgrade other parts. Plastic nozzles are ten a penny and are perfectly fine as well as not requiring any modification to fit or function properly.

An NPAS costs about £15...

Makes me badly want an AK again =[

Dat necro post doe

It's worth mentioning that when filling gas mags, you ought to always have the bottle upside down. The gas is liquid in the can, so to get the liquid into the mag you need to flip the can over to pour it in. Also worth mentioning WE mags are designed for pistols with metal slides, as such they have higher flow valves. This means more gas passes through them over the same space of time compared to the TM valves, so you might see an increase in both fps and felt recoil from the WE mag. Since the WE mag valves are high flow, the pressure they're under when opening and closing is higher, and the WE pistols have much stronger hammer springs as a result, so when you say that the mag sometimes vents gas everywhere and you have to remove it to save the gas, it could be that the TM Glock's hammer spring isn't strong enough to depress the valve on the mag sufficiently every so often. It'll drop and hit the valve, but it might not always have enough oomph to open it all the way - just enough to let gas escape, but not open far enough for the pressure to build and cycle the action - so you get it venting until you remove it. Just a theory. If it happens with the TM mags too then ignore me.

I use a pair of Contours. Looking to swap out to a Hero4 and a Mobius action cam though.

He should really have a mass amount of those made and sell them for like £5 each.

ZeroIn's rules fuck me off so much...

A good tip for playing in the wind is to tilt your gun into the wind direction slightly. Because hop lifts your shots up, if you cant it off centre slightly, it'll send your shots off to that side. The more you tilt, the more they go off to one side. So you can use it to fight against the wind, allowing you to shoot dead straight even in strong wind. You can also use it to bend shots around corners when there's no wind... Bit of a touchy subject though, as it can be considered blind firing. As others have said though, heavier ammo will travel further at a more constant speed, carry its energy better, helping it defeat light obstacles more effectively, and also being more resistant to wind because of the greater mass.

I opened mine up about as often as my gas one, I'd switch the fps setting all the time, constantly in and out of the gearbox swapping out parts. If anything, it's the one gun you can get away with opening often, because it's designed specifically with the ease of doing so in mind. You just have to be aware of all the electrical contact points, as they can be bent and cause poor conductivity, or circuit breaks. But they're easy fixes. I used the same set of motor connectors the whole time I had the gun, too.

Nope, nothing needed at all, and left alone one could chug on for a looooonnnnnggggg time.

The ICS L85s are rock solid, the Patrol Base techs are just weirdos... The ICS L85 is the single easiest, most user friendly gun to disassembly and take apart ever. it's one of the easiest to fix, it's one of the easiest to get parts for, it's one of the most robustly built. It's got very good out of the box performance, as well as having space for larger batteries (a rare trait for L85s) and comes with two high cap mags. Best L85 on the market imo. Best bang for buck out of all of them. I had the ICS for 2 years, modded it to fuck, and eventually sold it to get a WE gas one for the added realism. The WE performs worse in every way and comes with a lot of disadvantages, using a gas rifle is a handicap, plain and simple. It's less consistent, less reliable, doesn't work as well through the colder months, in fact it's straight up useless in anything less than about 4 degrees C and it costs a shit load more because the mags are about £35 each. I'd recommend the AEG over the GBB. Having experience on the real thing won't help you, in fact it'll probably give you unrealistic expectations, the airsoft versions aren't comparable in anything short of control manipulation. For gas guns you need to have spare money, patience, and an existing knowledge of airsoft guns to help get them set up correctly. Or friends who can help you with it. When I first started, the first gun I bought was gas, I had no clue what I was doing and I fucked it up. Never had a good game with it and spent around £1k trying to make it work right, all because of my stubbornness and lack of experience. I learned the hard way lol, don't take my advice lightly.

R hop does add range, as well as accuracy. The patch is longer and hugs the BB a lot more evenly, so its in contact with the shot for longer, and due to the curved nature of the contact piece, it keeps the shot centred far better so the performance is far more repeatable. Standard hop acts as a brake on one side of the BB. The more hop you apply, the more the top of the BB gets slowed down. The bottom of the BB doesn't get slowed down because there's no brake acting on it, so more hop = faster spin. Obviously if you spin too fast the hop sends the shots upwards, and spin too slow and the shots go down. R hop allows you to impart the same level of spin without applying as much of a brake to the shot, because the contact patch is longer. This means that the spin lasts for longer, and since the spin lasts longer, the BB can fight gravity for longer = more range. Then the added accuracy comes from the centralising effect of the curve of the contact patch.

Sometimes if you're too close then the chrono can be confused slightly because it picks up on the spits of gas that pass through it along with the BB. If you can hold it slightly further back then you should have fewer issues. About 10" or so is the ideal distance.

Hmm, I see what you mean. But fps limits are set because of the joules they relate to, not just because the shots travel at certain speeds. Conversion charts exist to tell you what fps you should be doing, and therefore, need to aim for if your gun suffers badly from joule creep. So, bearing in mind that fps limits are set for the joules, if you chrono on a heavier weight, to prevent joule creep being a factor, and you chrono joule-safe. Then that means you'll be joule safe on every weight below that, and because being joule safe means you're under the limit, you can't possibly end up over the limit by changing back to lighter ammo, because the joule energy is only ever going to go down from lightening the shot. You might end up very close to the fps limits on the lighter weights, but it should be impossible to be over them. And if you are over them, then you can just lower yourself below them. Sites could chrono with the heaviest weight available to ensure a person is joule safe, and then just to be on the safe side, chrono them again on their chosen, lighter ammo, just to be sure they don't somehow go over the fps limit... Bit of a long winded way of doing things, but when the entire point of chronoing is for safety, not dotting all the Is and crossing all the Ts seems like it kinda makes the whole process pointless. As mentioned in other comments, there aren't a lot of people using guns that this really relates to, so having to chrono them a handful of times to be sure isn't going to hold the day up all that much, and often when setting an NPAS it'll take a couple of trips to the chrono anyway because screwing a valve in and out isn't an exact science and getting it right on the first try is pretty rare.

The trust issues can be avoided by making everyone chrono on the heaviest weight there is, instead of the lightest. Joule creep will be exemplified the most by the heaviest ammo, so by forcing everyone to use that for the chrono, means their muzzle energy will only go down if they have a gun that over volumes the barrel. If their gun doesn't over volume the barrel then it won't make a difference one way or the other, but it will ensure everyone's within the limit.