Adolf Hamster
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Posts posted by Adolf Hamster
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materials is a fair point, if they have to switch to a more expensive filler to jump from .32 to .36
although it's also the bridge from price per shot isn't the main consideration, to where you expect to be using less because you're getting the performance to actually hit what your aiming at.
probably both.
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looks very combat union inspired, although that's by no means an insult.
i suspect the issue is the arm length, on the cu's you get an equivalent linear movement from the pitch of the spiral but the arm on that well looks about a third longer.
ofc limited travel isn't entirely a bad thing, it's trading fineness of adjustability for range of motion.
one option is to pop some packing under the nub, as 'borg says pencil eraser although i tend to prefer cutting strips off a normal bucking into rectangles as they give a consistent thickness.
11 minutes ago, Jerryy said:it moves, but i can see that it's still barely pushes the bucking into the barrel is what im trying to say, sorry, what do you mean shim out between the nub and bucking, do you mean inside the actual chamber?
the nub is the part that's actually pushing the bucking through the barrel window and into the chamber. they're usually round cylinders of rubber nestled in a little cup in the hop arm but can be in all sorts of wacky shapes or even moulded into the arm itself.
another old school mod is if the nub is particularly soft, replacing it with a snippet from a biro ink cartridge which is much stiffer and doesn't deform can also give motion at the expense of making the hop more sensitive (ie the gap between no hop, good hop and jamming is smaller)
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4 hours ago, Enid_Puceflange said:
Thanks for that
I understand the physics of joule creep, I maybe worded my original post badly, but I’m wondering why gbbr’s can hop a heavier bb than aeg’s can (without heavy upgrades to an aeg)
make more sense?
Typically gbbr hop design allows longer hop patches to a certain level, but frankly given a simple macaron swap can get a .48 spun up it's kinda moot these days.
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In general heavier flies better if there's enough gas to push it and enough hop to spin it.
Unless you're wondering about joule creep?
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If they're juggling several forums to list could be they dont check here too often.
I've also had the occasional pm on here land with no notification, and only caught them when reading other pm's, so might be that.
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Bonus for over-ear protection is it keeps them warm and protects them from ear hits.
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31 minutes ago, Lozart said:
I can GUARANTEE you, that you will get shot in the little D shaped gap where the adjuster is. Every. Damned. Time.
Even if you wear it the right way round, rounds will absolutely always find that gap between the peak and your goggles.
Same way as fingerless gloves guarantee you'll only ever take hits to the fingertips.
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I always gravitated to a baseball cap.
Few times i wore something more enclosing the extra protection was eroded by blocked breeze resulting in greater fogging.
Ofc as always ymmv, someone less sweaty may find the downsides do not outweigh the benefits of increased cover, reduced visibility and greater cool factor.
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Mine originates from when i was young, dumb, and edgy enough to think it was a funny name.
However it's surprisingly rarely taken so i kept using it and at this point it's just the name i use online.
Kind of ironic that i'm simaltaneously using a pseudonym to remain anonymous online whilst keeping that name constant which aids recognition.
- Tackle, Egon_247 and Chev Chelios
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used to be my main ammo supplier, so unless something's changed they're pretty legit.
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And the oft forgotten part of the hop upgrading- run good quality heavier ammo (as heavy as you can stomach come ammo buying time)
Bestest gnu on the planet will shoot like crap of your feeding it shitty lightweight ammo
- JinxDuh and Cannonfodder
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8 minutes ago, Chev Chelios said:
am not 100% sure on the physics but I guess the projectile stays in the barrel longer and the fact you have more propellant behind the projectile that can expand VS a cylinder in a traditional AEG might be the case.
Pretty much, gbbr's/hpa's can just keep sending gas until the bb leaves the barrel (when setup to do so/with an adequately long barrel), longer the bb takes to leave the more gas is sent the more energy is added.
Aeg's have a fixed starting energy, so if the bb takes longer to leave the barrel it doesn't have any more energy to gain, as the spring just pushes the bb out as fast as it can.
The spring bolties are a bit more confusing, but essentially by having a heavy piston slowing the rate of energy being made available to the bb, meaning that a lighter bb can escape the barrel before all the spring energy is released.
Theoretically aeg's would joule creep too, but the amount is sufficiently little to be insignificant compared to other variations.
- Chev Chelios and Rogerborg
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Tbh, joule chrono'ing isn't difficult.
Takes about 5 minutes to print out a strip with the raw fps figure that different common bb weights would be at the site limit.
Likewise, a few speedloaders with common weights to double check if you want to be real paranoid.
Or even if you don't want to bother with that, just keep the method exactly the same but use a heavier weight instead
- Cannonfodder, Chev Chelios, Hudson and 1 other
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Good spot, 0.5mm between the c clips would do it.
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1 hour ago, Fatboy40 said:
Not 100% the same, as it's an AEG
I'm assuming given the fusion engine we're dealing with a traditional aeg hop.
1 hour ago, Fatboy40 said:Maxx Model M4A-PRO + the solid concave nub + Maple Leaf MR 60 degree bucking + 0.32g BB's and it shoots perfectly
Indeed, hence querying because if there's an odd nub being used in the op's gun then the r block might be the solution.
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Are you using a regular nub, or the included r-block that the maxx has?
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15 hours ago, JinxDuh said:
To be fair, it's a nasty old brass one so I'll be ordering a nice new shiny one along with the nozzle etc. I also realized when I was talking about nozzles needing different lengths for inner barrels I was actually thinking of the cylinder which I'd read on AK2M4's site.
Tbh, a brass cylinder isn't the worst, i'd take brass over alu any day.
The key is internal bore quality, smooth and clean with no scratches, the enigma of e&l cylinders notwithstanding (they look like they should be crap due to machining marks but are anything but)
15 hours ago, JinxDuh said:Luckily I did open it, as my piston was chewed to pieces and didn't look like it would survive much more. Lovely specna quality. Great, until it's not great. 😂
Hmm, might be indicative of an issue.
Aoe is one option, other is pme although if it's a stock box and motor then probably not the latter.
Whilst a lot is said about aoe correction and the whole ethos of stuffing 5mm of sorbo into every gun you touch is kinda bs, it is worth taking some time to look at how the sector engages the piston and that it's a smooth pickup. I like to aim for flat-flat, ie the face of the tooth and the face of the piston meeting with full engagement.
A good way can be to "feel" the pickup, assemble the box with the piston, cylinder and geartrain but no spring/tappet plate/col, then turn the box by hand and feel how the initial pickup of the piston is compared to once it's been picked up and being pulled back.
Ak2m4 does shims to adjust aoe which are the best method imo, although you want to take care that the piston head can still centre on the piston properly if it needs a bunch of them.
13 hours ago, JinxDuh said:So as I removed the case, the tappet plate had somehow bent itself up, right around where the damage to the piston is. Air seal is all good, replaced the piston and tappet and still all good. FPS is also consistent, just low.
Consistent is good.
It might be time to consider the spring, if you don't know what strength it is then it might be as simple as it's just wimpy, plenty of pews i've had with fps downgrades have been a case of pull the stock spring, slap in some coiled pasta and call it a day.
Ofc springs aren't always going to be what their rating is on the packet, mis-labelling or different box configurations for preload can end up with quite a range, eg having a thrust bearing on both spring guide and piston versus no thrust bearings.
That said, what you don't want is to be compensating for leaks by just throwing energy at the problem as it'll just beat up the box with no benefit so the goal is to get yojr energy target with the weakest spring you can.
12 hours ago, JinxDuh said:The longest I have is 25mm, the closest I got to a 20.7mm was 21.03mm
Generally the only downside to a longer nozzle is when it gets long enough to cause feeding issues by not clearing the feed tube, might be worth dropping the 21.03 in see what it does.
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The hole is a port, you get ones at different positions to adjust the volume of air being sent to the barrel.
Typically different port positions dont have much impact on fps (unless it's significantly under-volumed for the barrel length), counter intuitive as that may be. I suspect arcane pressure curve type shenanigans are to blame.
For a 590mm barrel, you'll be wanting a full cylinder for the volume anyway so it's not a wasted change.
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5 hours ago, Dan Robinson said:
Logi MX Master 3S mouse has a button that switches the wheel from free spinning to line by line... Very handy.
Mine has something similar, but even in click mode you can set it to freewheel when spun fast enough, best of both worlds.
Granted might be annoying in games, but i tend to avoid/rebind mousewheel controls when i can.
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the issue with cheap, is what whilst it is possible, assuming your new to this there's going to be some avenues it's not worth risking.
the cheapest, "upgrade" is to get into the habit of cleaning your barrel, at least before every game day but bringing a cleaning rod with you is never a bad call. no need to get fancy, a clean strip of microfibre on the cheap plastic rods many guns come with is perfectly good enough. it's pretty much free and there is no real downside.
second upgrade isn't necessarily cheap, but it can at least be tailored to your pocket is to look at heavier/better quality ammo, how heavy is a balance between what the gun can lift, how heavy your trigger finger and how much you can stomach spending.
other cheap upgrades include the aforementioned bucking (in the name of lifting heavier ammo) and going after air seal, where the parts aren't strictly expensive (eg an o ring over a whole piston head) but dissassembling an aeg box is a clockwork nightmare and not the best idea to learn how to do it on your only pew, if you make a mistake it can mean the walk of shame and i can assure you it gets real old real fast.
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freewheeling mice
possibly the greatest invention of this century
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12 hours ago, Hudson said:
What should the ideal distance look like between the front of the air nozzle and the bucking lips? Should they be right up close together, or have some space between them?
Ideally the nozzle should be pushing into the feedlips when fully forwards.
It may be the case that a given bucking has short or long feedlips too, eg maple leaf macarons tend to be a smidge longer which in some hop units is a prpblem, but the reverse of a shorter feedlip can give the same issue.
12 hours ago, Hudson said:What would be the symptoms to look out for of having either too long, or too short of a nozzle? (Obviously if it's much too long, then there'll be no feeding at all, at best)
Too long you'll get feeding issues as even when fully retracted it'll protrude enough to mess with feeding.
Too short you'll get terrible airseal manifesting as low energy (for the spring that's in it) and big jumps shot-shot, this can either be measured at chrono or if you observe vertical dispersion.
It's worth noting that even with the correct length nozzle, if the tip is damaged it won't seal well and give the same symptoms, whilst you *can* shorten nozzles i tend to advise against it unless you have access to the tools to make a clean square cut.
Also worth seeing if the hop unit itself is well secured relative to the gearbox, ie it's not being allowed to move forwards.
Barrel length effects on accuracy - Breakdown and recommendations
in General Discussion
Posted
It's an interesting dive, but there are some thoughts to consider.
First is straightness, keeping a half metre tube straight to within the diameter tolerances we have is unlikely when things are being produced as cheaply as possible. Not to mention that the inner barrel might be perfectly straight but the outer has other ideas. I have pondered that a barrel curved intentionally downwards to force the bb to ride on its top edge (thus adding rather than detracting from the hop spin) could theoretically give better stability. I have a vague foggy recollection the americans had some sort of miracle barrel with a groove in it to acheive this but that's got as much weight behind it as the tk twist.
Second is the concept of stabilisation ie the whole riding on a cushion rather than bouncing off the walls, which i've yet to see the kind of full nerd level fea type analysis to confirm if it's even a thing, let alone give an idea of where the sweet spot is in terms of bore/length and the effects of bb weight and energy level. I suspect if it is you'll find that for a given ammo/energy level, too short gives too little time for the transition from bouncing to drifting, and too long reduces the pressure to where it can't even initialise stability in the first place.
And third is the everything else that goes on in our systems, which is why my typical summation is that barrel length is mostly irrelevant as simply getting the rest of the pew good enough to even notice the change is a challenge in an of itself.
Which ultimately boils down to barrel length being a choice made on other factors, like the handling, aesthetics, and wether your chosen field/style of play grants a benefit or a penalty to running a longer gun (ie poking through hedges outdoors or handling in tight spaces indoors)