Adolf Hamster

Generally, i'll just reply with a "sorry mate, this sold ages ago you can tell by the "completed" banner" Typically that yeilds either no response or an "opps, thanks for telling me" Its a tricky one, on the one hand i can see how the whole "completed" thing might be missed by someone who doesnt take the time to understand how this forum works. On the other hand, its not entirely subtle how this forum works. My record is someone once paid me f&f for a scope thinking it was another listing, fortunately i spotted the amount error, queried then refunded him once we realised the error but it does make you think how easily i could have merely ghosted and kept the money. The moral of this anecdote is never pay f&f.....

Is the symptom a dead trigger after a few rounds of semi auto that can be cured by a burst of auto? That's a common v3 issue (well, most boxes have a similar thing but v3's are especially prone) caused by the cycle stopping at just the wrong point. If it's had an aftermarket motor installed, or has any active braking shenanigans via a mosfet that could be the cause as the box is stopping before the trigger has the chance to fully reset. Turning off active brake (if possible) will solve that issue. Its also possible given that looks to be a microswitch box that its something dodgy in the contacts, which might be the case if it's not got any mosfet and has been run a while (doubly so when lipo's enter the picture). This would manifest as the trigger feeling normal but it just not wanting to fire in both semi and auto unlike the above which is semi-specific and can be cured with auto. Mechanically, apart from what @strykerles mentioned about the trigger not being seated the only thing i can see in those pics is the trolley is raised with the black arm looking like it's going to miss the cyan microswitch button. That said, it looks like thats just how its sitting with the box apart and not how it'll sit once the other half of the case is installed. Nothing looks to be missing/broken, at least from what can be seen in those pics.

Arguably lead would be better, its natural, softer and has even higher density. At 1.3j though you'd need to show up a day early to get the shooting done then show up the next to see if anyone hit you

That at least in theory would level the playing field. Assuming that all gas/hpa pews creep the same amount, and that with the players chosen game weight coincides exactly with the aeg limit in every instance. Which you will never know if you don't, y'know: Because the best case is you're arbitrarily giving gas/hpa users an energy handicap whilst leaving the possibility they might still be over. No comment....🤐

So impractical and illegal. For clarity i'm not suggesting we sling steel beyond a hypothetical discussion about hovering super heavy ammo at stupid low speeds. Indeed on a more real-world scenario i would argue that a 1j field slinging .48's would be better than a 1.3j field slinging 0.12's, as only one of those has the potential to lay down more than 1j of owchie no matter how close you get. Although it strikes me we are riding a tangent away from the original point about limiting ammo weights, which is nominally to stop pews going above the site limit.

If it helps, it hurt to do that even as a bit

Is that defined by the ammo material or the muzzle energy? In the humerous scenario that a steel bb could be made to float along with sub 1.3j of kinetic energy.

Then it evolved into using the mini keypad on an xbox controller to insult random strangers in cod lobbies, and as we all know letting random strangers know what you think of they're mothers is a time-critical task.

I'd argue its because it'd be hard to get enough spin to get them flying any usable range at acceptable joule levels. That and they's scratch up your barrel.

So bb's are not continuing to meaningfully accellerate once they've left the barrel. The velocity it has when it passes a chrono, is going to be the maximum it has. The joule creep thing is that for certain platforms, whilst heavier rounds result in lower velocity, its not proportional to the kinetic energy. The difference is in constant pressure versus constant energy systems. Lets say we have 2 cars at a drag strip, one heavier than the other. The first run, we give them limited fuel. The lighter car has enough it can drive flat out the whole time and run out of fuel right as he passes the line. But the heavier car wether he drives flat out and coasts the last few hundred yards, or drives gentle so he runs out as he crosses the line either way he's going to be moving slower. Thats your aeg, the fuel tank is your spring energy, you can fire a heavier round but it'll just go slower because the spring doesnt have any more to give. Second run, the cars have unlimited fuel. Your lighter car puts in the same time as before driving flat out till he passes the line. The heavier car however, well now he can drive flat out the whole time and unlike last time he doesn't have to coast the last few hundred yards and keeps flat out. His car is heavier so he doesnt finish faster than the light car (remember kinetic energy factors in mass), but he beats his previous pass even though he's had to burn more fuel to get there. This is your gbbr/hpa (at least the latter when tuned for heavier ammo), the gun during firing will just keep sending gas until the bb leaves the barrel, so if a heavier bb spends a bit longer in the barrel then it has more time to absorb the energy. In the case of lighter ammo, the unused "fuel" at the end of the race is the wasted gas that is still being supplied after the bb has left the barrel. This is why the ratio between the weights, or the length of the barrel (the drag strip in our analogy) is a factor in this too. A pistol barrel isnt going to creep as much as a dragonuv, and the jump from 0.2 to 0.3 wont be as big as the jump from 0.2 to 0.4. Limiting ammo weight is one way to lessen the effect, assuming people stick to it, but it aint as good as making sure that peoples pews, firing the ammo and settings they intend to use in-game, are within the acceptable limits.

It's a rule that has some logic behind it, ablbeit the lazy logic of a site that finds it easier to enforce an unenforceable rule than take the steps to ensure proper chrono practice. Tl:dr is hpa/gbbr has a tendancy to joule creep, ie it can fire kosher joule-based owchie on 0.2g but significantly more than the allowable joule-based owchie on heavier rounds, so a (theoretically unsuspecting) player can pass chrono with flying colours and with no more effort than loading their preferred heavyweight ammo be dishing out unnessecary zingers to their fellow humans.

A stub of inner barrel with a pin fitted in one emd can be used to make a de-loader, make it~60mm so 10 bbs can be popped out at a time without sending the whole mag contents flying

Round counter wise you can do tricks with the ammo loading. Eg stuff in 10 of your usual ammo weight, then a few lighter weight, then fill up. That way when you see rounds heading for space you know you're running low. The same can be done with tracer colours if your running one.

Doesnt work in dark mode.....

A fair point, my experience is that active hearing protection was never something i felt necessary for its primary purpose, but the secondary benefits of warm ears, protection from bb's and the tactical look made it worthy for me. I'll openly admit loud noises arent a thing i typically am concerned about and will willingly listen to a rock concert at full volume even with the temporary loss, but i dont begrudge those who are less cavilier with their hearing.

methinks a "that's disgusting" aka throwing up reaction might be useful. maybe something a bit stronger than "careful now", for when a post truly needs actual negative emotion (that isn't the aforementioned vomit inducing disgust) the fact i can think of only negative reactions to add is definitely not a tell for my naturally glass-half-empty lookout on life........

despite having once been nearly run-down by a deer mid-game, a circumstance that prompted my inexperienced invitee to comment if it happened often to which i replied no, it does not. i do see how the *ahem* "biodegradeable" nature of our bb's is sus at best and that environmental sustainability is unfortunately a valid concern for site longevity.

then wear active hearing protection, even something like a set of howard leights will make a mk5 or thunder b at your feet sound like a party popper (speaking from direct experience), keep your ears warm and protect them from bb's, the latter of which imo is by far the biggest factor. granted that's primarily outdoor play, so factor that in but i've never left an airsoft game feeling like there's hearing loss from it, the same cannot be said for rock concerts. think by far the loudest was a 9mm blank firer which was the games' McGuffin going off.

Pretty much, or maybe theres a built in resupply system eg you get to top up if the team captures an objective, or if you're doing wave respawn mechanics you get topped up before being sent back out.

I always figured the solution to that was a hard ammo cap for the day. Eg you get a bag of 500 bb's and its up to you if you want to partially fill a drum mag or a backpack full of gas mags but when its gone its gone. Would be hell to police given how easy it'd be for players to sneak extra rounds onto the field, and many would take issue (with varying degrees of justification) if they had to run site ammo. But then what rule in airsoft doesnt fundamentally rely on the honesty of strangers in a competitive environment.

I try not to judge a man/woman/otherwise by immutable characteristics like their age, race, culture, lack of socio-economic status, skin pigmentation, physical/mental divergence, their (age appropriate) bedfellow(s) or their god(s). But turning up to a site with those is a choice, and you chose poorly....... Same with 2-toning something rare, dont care if you day-glo a common gat we all gotta work around the rules but you show up with a lime green ppsh and it's not a bit, well, that's a choice........

if it's sized well, or designed to wedge into place that's a pretty decent solution some manufacturers even use. other solutions are springs/stacks of o rings around the inner barrel to pressure the hop unit against the gearbox (these can be affected by the magazine though), or some ak hop units literally bolt to the gearbox via the front tab. that's an old school bodge, some people hate it, but it's not the worst idea if the inner is a bit loose in the outer. don't need to go the whole way though just at the muzzle end as the hop will be holding the other end and you don't want to inadvertently be introducing bends to the barrel. some barrels even have grooves for o-rings to stabilise the end of them which is the professional answer to that question. if you're using springs to pressure the hop against the gearbox you want to be sure the tape stabiliser isn't so tight that the spring can't pull the barrel back onto the gearbox (ie barely enough ptfe to take out any wobble) i'm guessing that's to tighten up the fitment of the barrel into the trunnion? the grub screw nominally does that but if it's real loose then certainly an option, but you're gonna want to make sure that the barrel is sitting good and square when you get it all together but that's just standard airsoft ak things. not as keen on masking tape, you want something solid otherwise the barrel could be moving when the gun gets bending pressure (eg leaning on cover).

it seems mighy like it's intended as a spacer, i've often used them particularly on pistols. it's just a bit of stuff to pack underneath the nub to get a little extra lift when there's not enough regular hop travel to spin the bb's i want to use. commonly a cut up square from the skirt of an aeg rubber is a good option but i can see heatshrink doing the same job. you probably won't be needing it when you change to the omega nub.

That's pretty much the point i was trying to get at. A secondhand modded pew could have been worked on by someone with no experience, or someone with a lot of experience, if you do it yourself you at least get the benefit of knowing which of those 2 things happened. the walk of shame with a broken pew is still on the cards but at least it'll be your own shame.

When it comes to modded guns second hand, it's less about what parts it has, and more the quality of the workmanship. And unless they're name-dropping a tech that can be a gamble. You might get a well dialled machine that runs well, or a cobbled together mess that's going to struggle to make it through the first game without eating something important. If you cant see the gun shoot, hear how it sounds, then you're basically going off the value of the parts (at least the big ticket items) and the externals, the latter of which are unfortunately no indication of how healthy the internals are. It's why i advocate people learning their own teching, because at least you can have some confidence in being able to sort out any installation issues yourself.