Adolf Hamster

brushless + ab is unknown country. yes it is reasonable to expect that brushless motors won't respond in the usual way. however the builders of brushless motors will be taking into account that the airsoft community is going to treat them like any other motor. from my own exp the warhead motors react as any other motor would to being governed by a mosfet, beeps and all.

Had one a good while ago, WE do make a few decent pistols (and some truly awful ones) and the sig imo is kinda upper mid. trigger is awful, the pot metal slide doesnt do the gas effeciency any favours, it doesnt like the cold much although the bb lobbing capacity for spaced out shots can be made good with @GiantKiwi's suggested hop/barrel combo (although i go for shimming under the hop arm rather than changing it) + some good ammo. Good as a holster filler/occasional pot-shot gun but a tm is going to be better if you're planning anything more than that. A minor point is there were 2 rail variants (afaik based on rs but thats citation needed) one with a curved rail and one with the more standard square rail (as you have pictured). I had the latter and some holsters moulded for the former are a tight fit until they get bedded in but at least it fits standard accessories more readily.

Its the polish, you'll notice they feed in/out of mags but in-flight its not enough to make a tremendous difference.

Fair

.2's? Cant be that mad then......

[Rantmode] Or buy a few dozen speedloaders and bb's in the common weights. Or a set of digital scales. Or invest in some tape to write the fps readings for different bb weights on the chrono Or just memorise the site limit for common bb weights. Or read about joule creep and what it means. Or spend ten minutes googling why fps and joules are different things. Or take the chrono with them and randomly spot check players Or re-chrono players when they're complained about. Or actually kick players off when they do get caught. We dont need airsoft sites to fully understand the intracies of physics as they pertain to airsoft pews. The community has done that and served up practical solitions on a platter and even then the majority simply cant be bothered. [/Rantmode]

that's the dead internet talking. forums remain a bastion of actual enthusiast dialogue, and whilst this place has a particular feel (read: if you're a kickingmustang alumni you may not feel so welcome) it remains a safe place to chat airsoft related topics without the usual internet plague of adverts and bad opinions.

that's a cure for the timing bug. essentially, there's a point in the cycle where the trigger will go kinda dead as the cutoff lever is still engaged. flicking to auto overrides this and lets it fire with the odds being when you flick back to semi it's unlikely to have stopped in the dead zone. this is why i reccommend against active braking mosfets if they aren't paired with precocking, as they can stop the box right in the danger zone. although that doesn't sound like what's going on here if the trigger is dead after a blast of auto.

Can the barrel extension be milled further forward so the hop/inner barrel can be slid forward to clear the nozzle on dissassembly?

I'd be ok with it, for no reason other than as far as i've ever seen there are only 2 types of comms you'll get in a skirmish: 1. People who forget they have radios and hardly ever talk 2. People that announce every single little thing they're doing like they're narrating a minecraft lets play And in both cases i suspect you wont get much information that can be used to your advantage. As for milsims, unless part of the sim is specifically targeted as "we're pretending we have military grade encrypted comms" i'd also see it as fair game.

Assuming we're dealing with the platinum box, then tbh the airseal should be pretty on-point ootb. A tan macaron+omega nub combo, your choice of nice stainless barrel (xt/zci/pdi), the right spring strength (ie not massively underpowered) and some good food will have it quite far up the diminishing returns curve without even opening the box. Hop unit is perfectly fine, imo unless you're dropping a combat union in there then it's not worth changing. The one peice cylinder looks superficially like it should be bad, but it isnt, i'm not sure i'd consider anything else an upgrade. The nozzle could be swapped for alu, but it has a sealing o ring and i've used stock e&l nozzles as upgrades for other pews. The piston head is a rare example of a mushroom style that actually seals, although i've typically swapped them for wide ports (if you do change to a conventional head then you'll want to shim it to bring the aoe back in line). Piston is a weak point, but intentionally so and you probably dont need to change it if you're not going to be speeding the box up. Anything else you'd consider short of selling your soul to the hpa devil is for the goal of snappyness/rof rather than range/accuracy. A mosfet is reccommended, at least a basic model (eg nanoasr) for contact protection (avoid active braking unless it has precocking).

My gut feeling is it'll be too tight to fit in the gas tube of the e&l, although it might go under the dust cover.

everyone kinda has their own standard. what i typically would have done was asked for ukara, then seen if the site code exists on the ukara site listing. if i'm feeling a little sus i at least see if it's in the same general region (eg a mainlander isn't giving me an ni site code). otherwise i just slap the number on the box and call it good. i've also had folk give me re-enactor id (afaik re-enactor id is only good for relevant pews, ie you can't sell an m4 to a ww2 re-enactor, although in my case that didn't apply), and once dispatched a pew via a local shop we both knew. in buying i have had folk either not ask or even accept my forum presence as a player, although ironically my forum presence would now be a tad deceiving as i'm not playing these days. end of the day the requirement is that you're satisfied the person your selling your gun-shaped-object to is going to use it for airsoft pewing or other permitted activity, and afaik there isn't any real definition/precedent as to how much effort needs to be put into verification.

I think they pulled the doc martens strat of cheaping out and living on their reputation. So an old pair will be great, not so much a new pair. Lowas were what i moved to after my magnums went and i'd say are superior in all respects.

The downside of the tightbores is needing more frequent cleaning, which is fine for a lower round count pew like a pistol

"there are two things i hate in this world. People who are intolerant of other peoples cultures and beliefs. And the dutch"

The germans in ww2 had the Eihandgranate translating as "egg hand grenade" and was more common than the steilhandgranate we all know and love. I have it in my head that the original french term for a grenade was the same as apple, but slap a big citation needed on that.

Active brake on its own is supposed to prevent overspin, which could be thought of like a natural pre-cock, but can often have the unintended effect of stopping the box too soon giving trigger lockups as the cutoff timing does take into account a little bit of overspin. Typically i tend to reccommend using ab and precocking together or not at all, although it could be argued a precock setting without ab probably wont harm anything. Ofc none of that has anything to do with the energy output, but i see you've got to the bottom of that mystery.

Used to run cyma mids in my old jg aksu all the time.

you are correct the stereotypical symptom is higher energy on semi, with pme skipping teeth and resulting in the piston not being drawn back fully giving a lower energy in auto after the motor has spooled up. the other way around is a tad more mysterious, and especially that it can be cured with a different precock setting. the only thing i can think is that at your initial 2 steps of precocking, the tappet plate hasn't been fully released, meaning the order of operations is tappet plate releases then fire, with the snappy brushless able to wind the piston back and release before the tappet has had time to get fully into battery. with more precocking it's stopping after the tappet release meaning it's in battery and all the motor is doing is winding the piston back a little before it sends. but if that were the case, you'd expect the lower fps to also occurr in auto, as i doubt the motor from a standing start is going to be faster from tappet release to piston release than the same motor already wound up to full chat. it's worth noting that precock is just controlling the amount of overspin, and in terms of air volume a fully precocked piston has more time to fill itself with air than it will under full auto conditions, so you'd also expect it to give more energy than auto if the cylinder refill time was a factor.

I still dont understand how there isnt an airsoft g11. Its gotta be one of the easiest guns for them to make given your basically just slapping p90 internals into a g11 shaped box.

Also ammo quality, good ammo will be smoother and not bind up as bad. Also generally the higher the capacity in a midcap the fussier it'll be with a long spring having been squeezed such a long distance.

think the way i'd put it is that in macks, the seller has to come in here and actively engage the criticism. sometimes they come in and engage respectfully, even meshing with the banter, and everyone has a good time. sometimes they come in and try to fight, and get ripped on, and everyone but them has a good time. but mostly they just ignore the thread entirely. commenting on the sales post gives them nowhere to run, and as much as i agree that it makes the criticism more directly accessible for a buyer at risk of being ripped off, at the end of the day if a buyer does any kind of due diligence they'll either find the macks post or simply other information (eg ads, even completed ones, with different prices), and is it really our responsibility to guard people who won't take any steps to guard themselves?

This, throwing a mars bar in and shouting frag out only to then blast folk as they scramble is a legit tactic. But mucking with other peoples nades without their permission is not on.

So to spin up the heavies you're typically looking first at the bucking. Fortunately these days it's relatively simple insofar as a maple leaf macaron+omega nub (you need the omega nub unless you've got a hop unit with a rounded block eg the maxx units) is going to do good work in most situations. Although it must be noted the occasional pew doesnt like the slightly longer feedlips. The whole "degree" thing is a rating on the softness of the rubber, if you think hard/soft car tyres it's basically the same premise. Softer rubbers will grip more and spin up heavy rounds easier, but will wear down more quickly and softer feedlips can deform causing an air leak on higher energy pews. Typically the tan is a good all rounder for uk limits/temperatures. That, with good quality heavy ammo and a clean barrel will often get you most of the way there. The thing that can mess it up is poor air seal, you can most easily test this by firing some shots through a chrono and seeing what the variation is between shots, or just when shooting if you notice vertical dispersion. This becomes a much more complex thing to address and often requires popping open the gearbox, which isnt advisable until you have a backup pew handy.