Adolf Hamster

ahh yes, so essential i forget to mention it. well that's partially good, means the issue isn't necessarily the ml fee lip length. one thing to contemplate is ammo, if it's a bit sticky might give what you see. the number of these sorts of issues i've "fixed" by handing a mag filled with geoffs to the complainant......... otherwise next candidate to look at is the nozzle/cylinder head, one assumes they seal well to each other (worth checking with the thumb test) but possible that it isn't working when feeding, but sealing against the hop it just takes .01mm too short to get intermittent seal.

sounds like this might be a case of the ml longer feedlips and the gun saying no. i'd try swapping the bucking back to stock, if that fixes it then it's either trying to sand down the feed lips a smidge (which sadly often makes it worse unless you can get it real clean and square) or a different bucking. otherwise, time to look at the nozzle/cylinder head.

Can you not just remove the eye cup?

You mean against the rail? Option 1 is a number of qd levers act against a threaded rod, so you can unclip it, screw it in a few turns and it'll tighten (kinda like the qd levers on pushbike wheels) If it doesnt have that adjustment then a shim of cardboard (cerial packets are good for this) or plastic can also work

If the hop unit has a retention o ring you can just remove it and it should drop the bb's free The only retention mechanism i liked was the maxx clamp style which can actually feed all the rounds in, so you fire multiple times to make safe but those multiple rounds feed properly

I dunno, price of tobacco these days......

Was gonna say a grub screw. Secret mvp of the bodging world

both of the above are good suggestions, although i'd add that typically suppressor strikes are much more apparent than a mild curve and have an immediate component, which would have me thinking it's the hop as lopsided spin tends to manifest at distance as a gentle curve. one sneaky issue is that the deformation can change depending on the hop setting, so it might look perfect when you're looking at it on the bench with a little hop applied, but a little more/less hop applied when in the gun and the lop-sidedness manifests (very common in pistol hops when the tensioning arm bends), so be sure to check through the full range of hop travel. it's worth trying a little twiddling, even if it ends up looking off by eye if the end result is the shot going straight then that's ok.

i won't say the occasional indoor plink isn't on the cards, but i'll keep them in mind.

good to know, feels weird asking that question but given i'm out of the game now and a navy colt is one of the few pews i'd consider as a wall-hanger it was worth asking.

Oooooohhh Also, isnt it 1873 thats the cutoff for vrca stuff?

Finally an sks

might find it overhops/is biased to the lower end of hop unit travel. a flat hop nub is chunky to account for there being no mound in the bucking. but if it doesn't over-protrude enough to be an issue it should work, although ideally the maple leaf stuff is better utilised with a curved omega style nub to increase the contact patch.

Got active brake turned on? Because this sounds exactly like an active brake stopping the cycle too quickly problem

Ahh, yes that won't really be much benefit, getting the join to line up well enough to not mess up the accuracy isn't really practical. You'd be better off with no barrel extension and just an empty can

if you mean the suppressor causing turbulence, i can't say i ever noted an accuracy penalty from running one. that is, as long as you skip the fart flap, that'll make a barn door an optimistic target from inside the barn.....

It's an interesting dive, but there are some thoughts to consider. First is straightness, keeping a half metre tube straight to within the diameter tolerances we have is unlikely when things are being produced as cheaply as possible. Not to mention that the inner barrel might be perfectly straight but the outer has other ideas. I have pondered that a barrel curved intentionally downwards to force the bb to ride on its top edge (thus adding rather than detracting from the hop spin) could theoretically give better stability. I have a vague foggy recollection the americans had some sort of miracle barrel with a groove in it to acheive this but that's got as much weight behind it as the tk twist. Second is the concept of stabilisation ie the whole riding on a cushion rather than bouncing off the walls, which i've yet to see the kind of full nerd level fea type analysis to confirm if it's even a thing, let alone give an idea of where the sweet spot is in terms of bore/length and the effects of bb weight and energy level. I suspect if it is you'll find that for a given ammo/energy level, too short gives too little time for the transition from bouncing to drifting, and too long reduces the pressure to where it can't even initialise stability in the first place. And third is the everything else that goes on in our systems, which is why my typical summation is that barrel length is mostly irrelevant as simply getting the rest of the pew good enough to even notice the change is a challenge in an of itself. Which ultimately boils down to barrel length being a choice made on other factors, like the handling, aesthetics, and wether your chosen field/style of play grants a benefit or a penalty to running a longer gun (ie poking through hedges outdoors or handling in tight spaces indoors)

materials is a fair point, if they have to switch to a more expensive filler to jump from .32 to .36 although it's also the bridge from price per shot isn't the main consideration, to where you expect to be using less because you're getting the performance to actually hit what your aiming at. probably both.

Tbh idk wtbd

Looks like it has a bit of rubber in it, which could be swapped for something chunkier. Or the packing method will still work

looks very combat union inspired, although that's by no means an insult. i suspect the issue is the arm length, on the cu's you get an equivalent linear movement from the pitch of the spiral but the arm on that well looks about a third longer. ofc limited travel isn't entirely a bad thing, it's trading fineness of adjustability for range of motion. one option is to pop some packing under the nub, as 'borg says pencil eraser although i tend to prefer cutting strips off a normal bucking into rectangles as they give a consistent thickness. the nub is the part that's actually pushing the bucking through the barrel window and into the chamber. they're usually round cylinders of rubber nestled in a little cup in the hop arm but can be in all sorts of wacky shapes or even moulded into the arm itself. another old school mod is if the nub is particularly soft, replacing it with a snippet from a biro ink cartridge which is much stiffer and doesn't deform can also give motion at the expense of making the hop more sensitive (ie the gap between no hop, good hop and jamming is smaller)

Typically gbbr hop design allows longer hop patches to a certain level, but frankly given a simple macaron swap can get a .48 spun up it's kinda moot these days.

In general heavier flies better if there's enough gas to push it and enough hop to spin it. Unless you're wondering about joule creep?

If they're juggling several forums to list could be they dont check here too often. I've also had the occasional pm on here land with no notification, and only caught them when reading other pm's, so might be that.

Bonus for over-ear protection is it keeps them warm and protects them from ear hits.