emilianoksa

I am resurrecting this thread because, if others need to ask the same question, I can now provide the answer. The E2 and standard grips on the WE F226 are indeed interchangeable. Whereas the TM standard and E2 versions of the Sig have different length hammer struts and hammer spring housings, just like the real steel, WE has the same frame and hammer arrangement for both versions of the pistol. The frame in the picture above is mistakenly attributed to TM in the video. In fact, it is the WE frame. I learned this by removing the slide on the E2 and comparing the frame to the one pictured above which is for the pistol with standard grip. The two frames are identical. As you can see the housing is not a separate part, but actually moulded into the frame. Presumably this was done to keep costs down. I was going to buy replacement standard grips from WE, but they have that awful Seal Team 6 logo on them and are actually a little more expensive (plus you have to purchase the four screws separately) than the Guarder ones. The latter have the real trades and use better quality nylon reinforced polymer. So I bought the Guarder and fitted them. Transformed the look of the gun.

Americans can only buy the Umarex licensed Glocks. The WE G series cannot be imported. But some Americans get round this by importing privately. We don't have that problem here. People who buy the Umarex usually do it for the trades. People who buy the WE do it because it is inexpensive, reliable, and, unlike the VFC, a clone of the TM. It also has parts availability second to none. If you can't live with the plastic of the TM Glocks, and don't want to upgrade parts, the WE is the best buy of the pot metal ones.

Thanks for the advice. Lots of useful information. I like to collect replicas of iconic pistols , and plink with them at home or at a range. I have only ever used rifles for skirmishing, but if I wanted to use a pistol, I would probably use my TM Hi Capa.

Is there any reason why the Guarder slide can't be used with the TM plastic outer barrel? Is Guarder stuff so poor that its own parts don't fit together. I would have thought that if the frame and slide are both made by Guarder they should only require a little work, if at all, to fit. I mean their kits aren't exactly cheap. And what is the advantage of having a cast aluminium slide over a pot metal one. It looks nicer and will probably hold up better, but how much better? I'm beginning to wonder if I should save myself a lot of money and time and get a WE F226 instead. I had the WE E2 version and it worked well enough, had acceptable accuracy and good blowback.

Thank you very much for taking the time to pass on so much knowledge. You have given me food for thought.

Apparently the average punter is advised not to disassemble the P226 in case they can't get it back together again. People are also advised never to try and fit a Guarder kit to it. And yet I find myself at a loose end, and tempted to try both these bad ideas. I have watched a bloke on youtube who has fit metal kits to several TM pistols. However, his video of the P226 with Guarder kit was never completed. He did parts 1 and 2, but never got round to part three showing the fitting. This was quite some time ago. Perhaps he gave up. Has anyone on here done it? If so what are the pitfalls? I must say I don't like the idea of a steel outer barrel rubbing against the underside of an aluminium slide. I am probably an exception in preferring the original grip to the E2, and I like the unrailed frame more than the railed one. My plan would be to retain the TM internals if that is feasible.

If say a pistol with a red slide starts to lose most of its paint, is the owner required to repaint it?

Looks aren't everything. Fit, for example, is more important. I have always loved the look of the AKs - so much so that soon after I got my UKARA I bought two LCTs. Steel receivers, excellent build quality and they worked well. However I found them heavy and not particularly ergonomic. I also bought a metal G&G M4, and, compared to the AKs, it was a little lighter and much more comfortable. I no longer have any long guns, but if I wanted another, I would go for an M4. The M14 may look nice, but it is unlikely to fit you as well as an M4. If you are prepared to pay £300 or more just for the gun, I wouldn't go for Specna or Cyma. Not saying they are bad choices but there are probably better out there. The Krytac series are said to be good to go out of the box. Parts are proprietry but as long as you can get spares, I don't see that as a problem.

True. It is clearly an advert. But then many of the "independent" reviews one sees on youtube aren't much better. Yes. I've noticed ICS isn't as highly regarded by some as it used to be. I understand the split gearboxes on its M4s can be a problem.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0O6RBIIMEZ4 I thought pot metal was supposed to break easily. Maybe ICS has a special formula.

Seems like most retailers are carrying these now. But whereas brands like Army Armament, Raven etc are pretty cheap, Vorsk prices seem to be up there with some of the most expensive. Personally I am not tempted by them but I wondered what others think of them.

Their first releases were pistols which had no real steel counterparts, but they then switched over to recognisable guns like the 1911 and Beretta 92, albeit unllcensed. ICS in particular has a number of new models on the market, including a fully licensed model of a Turkish pistol, a Korth and now a Hi Capa. . Does anybody have any experience of these guns produced by companies with a pretty solid reputation for aegs but who are new to the gbb market? Is there any reason to think they would have superior build quality to the likes of KJW, WE etc.? Is the pot metal they use likely to be a bit better. The pot metal on G&G and ICS rifles is pretty good after all. I have been tempted to try the ICS BM92, and although the few reviews I have seen have been positive, there isn't a lot about them on the web.

Is that the WE version? If so could you kindly tell me where you got the light? My x300 clone doesn't fit on my F226 rail. Oops, sorry. Just realised it is a laser.

"Real ones are made of 7075 aluminium anyway so I don't see any reason why the airsoft ones would be made of steel." Of course. What was I thinking?

Some of the AK aeg airsoft rifles, are made of pressed steel: LCT, E&L, even some of the Cyma models. I had a couple of the LCT aeg ones. They were very solid and looked authentic. As for gbb AKs the WE versions are steel, and the GHK ones are said to use the steel receivers made by LCT. As far as I know, nobody makes a steel M4.

It has been some time since I last played, and I would be grateful if somebody could kindly tell the average going rate for 3 hours or so of cqb. And how much for rental equipment? I am particularly interested in fees for Level 2 and the Mill, both in the Greater Manchester area.

Is it from the same factory as the WE f226? Some of the Ravens are now being advertised at higher prices than WE alternatives. In fact quite a few of the crappier makes of pistol are going for ridiculous prices these days.

You might be able to get a G&G GC16 M4 for about £250. It is the all metal version of the polymer combat machine, and comes in several variants. It won't have a mosfet for that price, but you don't really want a G&G mosfet. They are reliable and look nice. Almost everybody uses lipo batteries these days. I couldn't be bothered with them and ran a nimh nunchuck in mine. They are much easier to charge and store, and safer for a child to use. I was perfectly happy with the performance. A battery and charger will set you back about £16. All you do is plug it in, and when the charger light changes colour, unplug and play.

Thanks lads. They are parts from a TM hi capa, and only the plastic slide and grip are gun like. The rest are internal parts. What about age restrictions? Are there any?

I have customised a new airsoft gun and would like to sell on the original as new factory parts. Am I right in assuming that no defence is required for airsoft parts? I am obliged by law to ensure that buyers are over 18 years of age, even if I am only selling parts? Or is there a difference between internal parts and external parts? I would be grateful for your advice.

One of my two TM based Hi Capas with the left over parts, which I have put on the sales section at low prices for anyone who needs spares.

Thanks.

Thanks for the advice. Would that be a shim along the grooves on each side of the rail, or a shim over the bottom of the rails?