emilianoksa

Would be for me too.

That is very nice. Just out of interest how do those M10s shoot?

Thanks. AIM TOP is a new one for me.

Would you take BO2 - part of the original or ONE series - over any of the Edge series? The original oem was E&C which is generally well thought of, and some have said that although the Edge series is easier to change a spring on, the build quality is not as good as the original ONE series guns. Does anyone know who the oem is for the Edge series?

Thanks for getting back to me.

Thanks for the tip, but these slides seem to be for TM Glocks only. As for Guarder WE G series slides, I haven't been able to find any reference to them. Guarder appears to cater for TM and KJW owners only.

Just a quick one. Do the firms offering a cerakote service, require you to remove the factory finish and polish up the metal before posting it? Or is that generally part of the service?

Thanks. I'll see if I can find one.

The little pin that connects the trigger to the trigger bow. Not sure whether to call it a roll pin or split pin, or are they the same thing? I bought an Airsoft Masterpiece trigger which comes with its own pin. Unfortunately it is a little too thick to go through the holes of the TM trigger bow. I dropped the original TM pin and can't find it, so I am stuck with a roll pin which is a little bit too thick. I have considered putting a round file into the holes on the TM bow to widen them a little. But this may not be a good idea. It would be easy to widen the holes a bit too much. Of course I would buy a couple of TM replacements but they aren't available anywhere. So my other option is to source suitable split pins on the web. Since these pins are tiny and easily lost, and I can't be the first person to have lost one, I wonder if any hi capa owners who have had a similar experience know the size of split pin I should order. I imagine it is m1.5 but I don't know.

Thanks for the warning.

Will a Guarder Glock 17 slide fit a WE G17 frame? Will it accommodate the WE outer barrel, blowback unit, and sights? I was going to buy a replacement WE slide but then noticed the Guarder ones aren't much more expensive.

Thanks to you both for the replies. I thought about the cerakote solution, but then the price brought me down to earth. It's a lot of money to spend on a pot metal gun. More than the price of the gun itself. I find myself being drawn back to TM black plastic.

I watched a video of a man who had a TM 4.3 for 6 months. He skirmished with it, probably quite a lot, and kept it in either a kydex or plastic holster - kydex if memory serves me right. The frame, which is painted alloy, had enormous wear (ugly and unnatural to look at) , but the plastic slide looked OK. All metal pistols seem to lose their finish quickly, even if they are not repeatedly holstered and reholstered. I wonder how well the finish on TM all plastic guns wears. Metal guns are clearly painted. What accounts for the black finish on plastic guns? Is the finish only skin deep or are the guns cast from black plastic, which is plastic all the way through. I sold my TM M9 and have regretted it. I have been thinking about replacing it. I don't skirmish much, and so have little need for a holster. Should I buy a metal M9 from KJW, KWA or WE, for the realism or another TM? In fact you have to look very closely at the gen 2 versions of the TM9 to realise it isn't metal. The finish is excellent. I don't mind signs of wear as such. All pistols wear but gbbs with cheap black paint wear in an unnatural way. They generally look bad when the paint comes off and lose realism.

I always believed the LCT guns had propriety mags.

The V2 may well be a good gun. But VFC has poor parts support.

The olive drab is a factory paint, not a diy job. The gun is a WE G17 finished entirely in OD, purchased from Hong Kong. KY Airsoft was the only retailer selling it. Later I began to think it would look better with a black slide. The gun has never been used and is as new. Thanks again for all the replies.

Yes, I know you are right. No shortcuts.

Another quick question if I may. I've been on the Halford's site and it says that their primer can be applied to existing paintwork as well as bare metal. The slide I want to paint is not red, blue or any of the other bright colours that people without a defence have to buy. The gun is a genuine rif, but the slide is painted olive drab. I want to change it to black. The gun has hardly been used and the paintwork is in as new condition. I know that removing the OD paint with solvents and wet and dry is a bigger pain in the arse than actually doing the painting. So is it really necessary? Has anybody on the forum sprayed primer directly onto a painted surface? If so I'd be grateful if you could tell me how it turned out.

Thanks for the replies.

Is there any reason why Halfords car spray paint would be less durable than Krylon? I know that all paint wears off over time, and especially the factory finish that airsoft pistols come with. I am assuming that both Krylon and Halfords will give a better finish than the stock one, provided the surface is properly prepared, primed and sprayed with a bit of skill. I just wondered if the car spray was just as good, if not better, than the Krylon.

I am resurrecting this thread because, if others need to ask the same question, I can now provide the answer. The E2 and standard grips on the WE F226 are indeed interchangeable. Whereas the TM standard and E2 versions of the Sig have different length hammer struts and hammer spring housings, just like the real steel, WE has the same frame and hammer arrangement for both versions of the pistol. The frame in the picture above is mistakenly attributed to TM in the video. In fact, it is the WE frame. I learned this by removing the slide on the E2 and comparing the frame to the one pictured above which is for the pistol with standard grip. The two frames are identical. As you can see the housing is not a separate part, but actually moulded into the frame. Presumably this was done to keep costs down. I was going to buy replacement standard grips from WE, but they have that awful Seal Team 6 logo on them and are actually a little more expensive (plus you have to purchase the four screws separately) than the Guarder ones. The latter have the real trades and use better quality nylon reinforced polymer. So I bought the Guarder and fitted them. Transformed the look of the gun.

Americans can only buy the Umarex licensed Glocks. The WE G series cannot be imported. But some Americans get round this by importing privately. We don't have that problem here. People who buy the Umarex usually do it for the trades. People who buy the WE do it because it is inexpensive, reliable, and, unlike the VFC, a clone of the TM. It also has parts availability second to none. If you can't live with the plastic of the TM Glocks, and don't want to upgrade parts, the WE is the best buy of the pot metal ones.

Thanks for the advice. Lots of useful information. I like to collect replicas of iconic pistols , and plink with them at home or at a range. I have only ever used rifles for skirmishing, but if I wanted to use a pistol, I would probably use my TM Hi Capa.

Is there any reason why the Guarder slide can't be used with the TM plastic outer barrel? Is Guarder stuff so poor that its own parts don't fit together. I would have thought that if the frame and slide are both made by Guarder they should only require a little work, if at all, to fit. I mean their kits aren't exactly cheap. And what is the advantage of having a cast aluminium slide over a pot metal one. It looks nicer and will probably hold up better, but how much better? I'm beginning to wonder if I should save myself a lot of money and time and get a WE F226 instead. I had the WE E2 version and it worked well enough, had acceptable accuracy and good blowback.

Thank you very much for taking the time to pass on so much knowledge. You have given me food for thought.