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emilianoksa

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Everything posted by emilianoksa

  1. I have just ordered a Guarder Gen 2 frame for my TM Glock 22. Would I be wise to fill the hole behind it with JB Weld or Araldite just in case? I will only be running the gun with a plastic slide and 144a gas, but I have heard that even Guarder frames may need reinforcement at this point.
  2. I would buy a VFC pistol if it were easy to get spare parts for them. But it isn't. And so I won't. I stick to TM and WE mainly because parts can easily be replaced when they wear out or break.
  3. I have noticed that those for Glocks come at different price/quality points. There are different grades of aluminium, and whereas most are cast, some are CNC milled. The latter are considerably more expensive, getting up to and beyond the cost of slides made by premium manufacturers. Are they really an improvement? Do they fit better or do they still require the removal of material for the fitting of TM bbu units etc? And why are all the Guarder outer barrels made of steel? Surely a steel outer barrel rubbing against the underside of an aluminium slide is not a good idea. Why don't they just make aluminium outer barrels?
  4. It is extremely ugly and unnecessarily heavy. I love TM stuff but would never be tempted to buy something like that.
  5. Many thanks to you both.
  6. I went for the Glock 22 Gen 3 in the end because I want to put a Guarder Gen2 frame on it, and this will not fit the Gen 4s. I was very pleasantly surprised. People say Marui Glocks are very light, but I found it more weighty than I expected. When I removed the slide I was impressed by the standard of parts and quality of the fitting. It looked clean compared to my WE Glocks. And although it didn't have the same recoil, I was perfectly happy with the recoil it did produce and the speed of the slide reset. The Gen 4 must really be something special if it is an improvement on this. I dispensed with the extended mag base , put on the normal mag base and just enjoyed shooting it in my garden. Of course the slide is plastic, but it somehow manages to look better than the WE metal slide. In any case I intend to run it on 144a gas and for shooting at home exclusively. This got me thinking again about TM pistols generally. I have always fancied the Beretta PX4, but have heard that the slide stop breaks and the decocker fails after a while. I never use the slide stop as a slide release on any gun, and I avoid using a decocking lever. Whether doing this will minimize the potential damage to the slide stop I don't know. It does look a bit fragile. But I am more worried about the fact that "it will take play over time" (whatever that means - I assume it means the slide to frame fit will loosen). I have also heard that the TM XDM40 suffers from the inner slide reinforcement breaking near the slide stop resulting in the slide stop being gradually eaten. Are these design faults, or the result of people not following Marui's advice and and running their pistols on green gas? I know many run them on green gas without problems, but there is always a risk. Has anyone on here who uses a PX4 solely on 144a run into any serious problems over time?
  7. Just to say that Jaxx has been very communicative and an altogether  good customer, and I would be more than happy to sell to him again.

     

     

  8. I have two WE Glocks and I have been perfectly happy with them, but I wanted to try one of the TM ones. I have always thought the best looking Glock frame was the Gen 2 (the one without a rail). Since Guarder makes one of these for Gen 3 TMs and the Glock 22 has some little improvements over the original Gen 3, I decided to go for that one over the latest Gen 4. I have a very specific purpose in mind for this new purchase. I intend to keep it all plastic, and use it only with 144a in my garden. Velocity is not important to me. But I do want to get rid of that ABS frame. I feel confident enough to transfer the TM parts into the Guarder frame, but I understand there can be a problem with the main frame screw on Guarder frames. Apparently it can result in the slide not being completely aligned with the rails. I understand that shimming will fix this, but I don't really understand where the shims should go. I would be grateful if rocketdogbert or any other experienced pistol builder could advise me.
  9. Thanks again.
  10. Do you think the 15mm cylinder in the bbu of the latest TM pistols, which gives snappier blow back, will also put more strain on the plastic slide and wear things out faster?
  11. Good points.
  12. Thanks. Having looked at the parts diagrams I can tell you that they don't have weights in the grip like the 1911s and M9s. On a slightly different topic, why do people say you should steer clear of the older Marui designs (ie. most of them) and go for the later models? I understand that the early Beretta 92s are very outdated, but what about the rest? The full size USP may be a great performer, but if you don't happen to like the look of one, what is the point of buying it? You might prefer the look of the Glock 34, but that too is an older design, and presumably not a recommended buy.
  13. The original one with the thicker grip. Why is it so much heavier ( by 60-70 grams) than the later E2 version? It can't be just because of the larger grip, can it? How would that alone account for another 70 grams. Maybe it is something to do with the old style magazine with the thicker metal base plate. But the 226 R now comes with the E2 magazine and it is still advertised as substantially heavier than the E2 pistol. Is it more plasticky looking than the E2, or about the same?
  14. Just a quick question: How many photos can be posted for one advert on the Prefired sales forum?
  15. Thanks again.
  16. Thanks. Pity they are no longer available. Excellent work. Considering it is all stock, that is very impressive. Does the cerakote on the slide really reduce the risk of the plastic scratching?
  17. Are those the KWC versions of old, or does somebody else make them? Just my opinion, but they are a better looking pistol than the M&P 9. What brand are the slide and frame? Very nice work, by the way.
  18. Thanks for the heads up.
  19. I have been waiting for the TM G17 Gen 4 pistols to be restocked, but something tells me this could take a very long time. So I started to think about the G17 Gen 3 and the G22. They have the smaller bbu so are probably not as nice to shoot. Since I only intend to use 144a gas, the issue of the hammer light striking shouldn't be a problem. Whether the weaker gas reduces the chances of the main body screw failing, I have no idea. I know that the G22 has a metal reinforcement to protect the plastic slide when it locks back, that the G17 lacks. I understand that the dimensions of the G17 and 22 are the same. Does this mean that aftermarket slides and frame kits from the likes of Guarder designed for the 17 will also fit the 22? Is the G22 a good buy , or is the G17 Gen 4 so much better that it is worth waiting for, regardless of how long it takes?
  20. Thanks to you both. So is the Guarder metal slide a decent fit on the Guarder complete frame kit? Or is it likely to need modification as well? I imagine the TM bbu unit will not be a straight fit to the Guarder slide, but what about the TM plastic outer barrel and recoil spring guide?
  21. Not cheap but they look pretty good. Do any members have any experience of these or know someone who has? I wonder how they would work with the TM plastic slide and internals. Would they work well together, or would they need a metal slide on top?
  22. Thanks very much for clearing that up for me.
  23. Would I be right in thinking that most of the custom stuff available for Marui Glocks is for the original Gen 3 pistols, and that there is little in the way of upgrades for the more recent Gen 4 models? If you want to buy a TM Glock for upgrade, is it better to buy a Gen 3?
  24. Thanks. Yes, I've noticed that my FNX 45 doesn't seem to suffer from it. And when the black TM FNX and black VFC FNX are laid down together for comparison, it is not immediately obvious which is which. As for cerakoting plastic, could I ask you two questions? 1. Does it protect the plastic from serious scratching and scuffing? 2. Is it cheaper to have plastic cerakoted than metal, since there is presumably less preparation involved before spraying?
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