emilianoksa

I managed to get it up and running. The only remaining problem is that it won't hold a TM Glock 22 mag. Even if I hold the mag and push it up tight when shooting, it just blows out all the gas. So I have decided to use it with a couple of my WE mags with 144a. I wonder if the original TM Glock 17 gen 3 mags without the metal reinforced mag release would work. However they aren't easy to find these days. Irony is that I can use my TM Glock 22 in my WE Glocks, though as rocketdogbert says, they don't provide the best seal. Might just have to buy another TM Glock and keep it stock. Then I will have two mags for it. Your gun looks great by the way. Love Gen 2 frames.

Thanks for the suggestion. I'll give that a try. Do you happen to know if a Nine Ball gas router for a TM Glock mag will fit a WE Glock mag. Is it really worth changing the router from WE to TM type for a pistol that will only occasionally be used for plinking in the garden?

Thanks again. I doubt it would be possible to put the TM serial plate in the Gen 2 frame. It tapers quite a bit. The Gen 2 has always been my favourite Glock and Guarder is the only manufacturer that makes a Gen 2 frame. I'm not keen on pistols with rails for lights. I prefer the cleaner lines of those without, which is a nuisance since so many come with rails these days. I don't skirmish with pistols so I don't really have a need for a rail.

Thanks again. I am using the Guarder serial plate without the tag plate accessory in a Guarder Gen 2 frame. I thought that if they supplied the tag without the attachment, it wouldn't need it in a Guarder frame. But I am coming to the conclusion that the tag plate is the problem. There isn't enough material below the take down spring to tension it and push the lever up. Thanks again mate. Wondering if I should have purchased a new serial tag set from Fire Support but then I saw this warning. https://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/guarder-series-notag-set-for-marui-g23-early-type So the Gen 2 frame takes the serial plate only, and not the other attachment which is for Gen 3 frames. When I get round to opening it up again, I will try to shim under the chassis to put some pressure on the spring.

Here, I hope is a better picture of the recoil spring. This is the way it came in a brand new Glock 22 which I purchased two weeks ago. It seems to work but clearly doesn't lie well on the guide rod. Is it really supposed to look like this? How do I get the spring off the guide rod? Which end comes off? And does it pull off or screw off. And why is there a flat indentation on the rod itself? Would appreciate an explanation. And thanks by the way, for your help.

The one which came with the Guarder frame. The spring below the takedown lever doesn't have the strength to keep the lever up. Do you think using the TM base plate/sliding safety might be the way to go? Or is there another way to go. At the moment the lever is just loose in its two slots. I have been trying to download some better pictures but I always have trouble reformatting them from my wife's iphone. The one of the recoil spring does not really show how much it is kinked. So I'll try to download another.

I replaced all the internals in the TM frame and the gun functioned. So I don't believe I didn't assemble the gun correctly. I then put them back into the Guarder frame. Same problems re loose takedown lever (though it works) and mag not connecting but falling out of grip. However I made an interesting discovery; I put a WE Glock mag in the gun and it worked. I then put the TM mag into a WE Glock and that worked too. So it would appear the Guarder does not like the Glock 22 mag with two cut outs and a metal reinforcement. It just doesn't seem to fit. So, if necessary I will change the gas routers on a couple of my WE mags. Does Laylax make one that fits the TM bbu?

Thanks for the reply. I'll post some pictures tomorrow.

It's the Gen 2 one which I have fitted to a TM Glock 22. I just swapped over the internals from the frame and will be running the TM upper stock. Managed to get it done, but there were three problems: 1. The takedown lever isn't a good fit. I is loose and goes up on one side and down on the other. Will a Guarder takedown lever fix this? 2 The slide went on to the frame but not as well as I would have liked. I removed everything and sanded down the top of the frame to get it straight. Problem fixed. 3 The mag will not stay in position. I put it in, and it immediately slips out. It could be that the mag release spring isn't strong enough, but it seems fine to me. It works well enough on the TM frame. It seems to me that the whole internal dimension of the Guarder grip is too big. I suppose the only way to deal with that is to pad it will a couple of thin strips of plastic. 4 Unrelated to the Guarder frame I notice that my TM recoil spring is unlike any I have seen before. The coils are not all of the same diameter, which makes the spring look kinked. Is this normal? 5 And finally the most serious problem; when I press the trigger with a gassed up mag in, holding the mag so it doesn't drop out, the slide goes back only partially and all the gas escapes from the mag. I assume this is because the mag is not making proper contact with the bbu in the slide. But what do I know?. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Some of these problems might be related. Apart from them, the gun functions normally. If I put an empty mag in and rack the slide it locks back. If I use the sling shot method to release the slide it works. I love the Gen 2 frame and would like to make it work. Trigger and hammer seem to work as one would expect. If necessary I will keep the gun as a display piece. Bit of a waste though, so I am hoping I can fix it.

Thanks.

Thanks Stew.

My Gen 2 frame came with the tag, but no tag block. Tag with tag block: https://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/guarder-series-no-tag-set-for-marui-g17-blank So I am assuming that the block is not needed for the Guarder frame, but only for the TM frame when a Guarder Glock tag is put into it to replace the TM safety. Am I right?

Thanks for the reply. None of my pistols are ever holstered. I don't have any holsters. I occasionally put them in padded cases but only for transportation. I just wondered if the silver finishes would hold up as well as the black finishes, from normal holding, handling, slide racking etc. It may be that I am confusing all TM silver finishes with that on the frame of the TM 5.1 stainless, which is notorious for coming off. Maybe that is just because the thin silver paint is on metal. Maybe silver paint on plastic wears better.

Any reason why one should be preferred over the other, apart from price? Does the silver finish on some of the later TM pistols still not age well, or have they improved it?

Sorry to get back to you so late. Didn't read your post properly. No I meant the screw that holds the front metal chassis to the bottom of the frame. I think the problem you are referring to regarding the screw at the top of the hammer assembly, is that it self threads into plastic - just like the front screw on the original TM frame.

You are right. Thanks mate. Did you rub the top on sandpaper to make sure it was level or just go ahead and fit it? I have noticed that the very front on mine dips quite a bit which may mean it has to be shimmed if I don't level it.

Could somebody kindly tell me if this is the pin for the slide stop and chassis it connects to , or for the hammer unit?

Thanks to you all.

Thanks. So, if you only run a plastic slide, it isn't essential.

Well it isn't exactly a hole. The depression is illustrated at 8:44 on this video:

I have just ordered a Guarder Gen 2 frame for my TM Glock 22. Would I be wise to fill the hole behind it with JB Weld or Araldite just in case? I will only be running the gun with a plastic slide and 144a gas, but I have heard that even Guarder frames may need reinforcement at this point.

I would buy a VFC pistol if it were easy to get spare parts for them. But it isn't. And so I won't. I stick to TM and WE mainly because parts can easily be replaced when they wear out or break.

I have noticed that those for Glocks come at different price/quality points. There are different grades of aluminium, and whereas most are cast, some are CNC milled. The latter are considerably more expensive, getting up to and beyond the cost of slides made by premium manufacturers. Are they really an improvement? Do they fit better or do they still require the removal of material for the fitting of TM bbu units etc? And why are all the Guarder outer barrels made of steel? Surely a steel outer barrel rubbing against the underside of an aluminium slide is not a good idea. Why don't they just make aluminium outer barrels?

It is extremely ugly and unnecessarily heavy. I love TM stuff but would never be tempted to buy something like that.