Chev Chelios

Its as simple as changing the main spring and mechanically (adding a screw somewhere works well) locking the selector to safe/semi will get you the muzzle energy you need. If I had to have a sowing machine as a DMR I would want some sort of electronic board to control the position of the piston and take the strain off the electrical components, get a good quality bore inner barrel, hop unit and rubber. But you should HPA it , a wolverine closed bolt reaper engine would be the way I would do it.

Mind posting a pic please? I assume you just chopped both mag internals in half and then glued the top das mag to the mid-cap/hi-cap lower?

Steve, how come not a fan of CTSS? It would drive me mad if I could hear everyone else talking on the channel I was using. I do use DTS mind for a larger range of squelch tones to reduce the chance even further of hearing unwanted coms. Dose it not bother you or do you use some other type of filtering?

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003146632812.html?

Had a few NGRS in with cracked lowers in for repair (as shown in the pic and other along the red line) both using one point slings, I think you are right to go with a two point. Much less likely to hit you in the nads to. From a clone of the ones in use by US folks - I would add witness marks on all the screws (I like a blue paint pen). I would keep the stock and drill a hole in each of the battery caps then run some para cord/shock cord through the hole and the caps. Have you tried flipping the front iron around? Easier to open and can push the laser a few slots forward. I see a lot of these in photos with CAG with 416s https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003075002123.html? from reading the gun forums it sits the optics slightly higher and seems to hold zero if taken off. Although the KAC NT4 was around, very rare if ever to see one in such pristine shape, would beat the hell out of it and fry it with a blow torch or swap it for a Surefire RC2 and hide an ACETECH tracer in it. Hope you have lots of fun with the it!

Just want to say how good these guys are, my latest order arrived in 4 days, still waiting on a UK based shop that's starts with P to ship my order 2 weeks and counting. Shipping prices are reasonable, turnaround time is fast, website reflects stock levels and never once had an issue with customs after we left the EU.

Just got the wiring loom built by Cage/Perun. Micro switches look to have some sort of coating over the switch (the bit that the are pushes down on) so hoping it will live up to the hype of those water submersion videos that Cage posted. It use's an electronic "fuse" so finally that shitty blade fuse in the stock is gone along with basic tone info beeps, low battery and tripped fuse. first impressions seem to be good. Anyone want an photos of any of the insides while I install it? Hight of the pinon against the bevel se t from factory ETC? On the subject of BBs, I have only ever run geoff's bbs, 0.32g Tracer and 0.36g SP. Touch wood never had a miss feed or crushed BB so wary of trying any thing else. This look interesting, a adapter that uses KWA 120 round EPM mags and still has bolt lock https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VEeIW41gvg4 Good resource for maintenance and disassembly https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCctYtgnvuGhNogS7wxTE1-A/videos

Enid so happy you posted this mate, been looking for a joke birthday present for a mate of mine and he looks about your build, what size did you get by chance?

I am at 20k ish rounds on a long shaft motor with the end of the shaft peened so the gear can move up and down on it, seems to be working out really well on an 11.1v pulling a short stroked system. Both pinon and bevel have meshed really well and show no signs of wear and is super silent, no chatter what so ever. Anyone think of any negatives or down sides to this?

You can put me in the same category as this NY plod.

I sent it back for a refund, no pics I am afraid but it looks and mounts just like the real one. It would be OK as a nav light but as it switches off and turns the laser on after a few seconds its pretty useless even at that. It works in tandem with a weapon light really well when you hook up your light with something like the modbutton rip off, with all 3 switches in line, and that was my plan. If they go down in price I would be tempted to get another and rip apart and see if I could make one button do mom laser and the other constant.

It looks an feel great, plastic feels really nice everything clicks in positive and buttons are nice and responsive but its useless to me at least, you hold down the button, light comes on then 3 seconds after that laser is constant on. That's both for VIS and IR. Had no way to test it but the red laser is not even close to class one, would been burning retinas out there sockets if it was pointed down someone's magnified optic.

Stock GHK (has a MV of around 1.5j) and in this review they claim it has a effective range of 70m and the GHK uses AEG spec barrels and bucking's so the Mythbusters would def say plausible and these guys seem to be pretty thurow https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BIuDh8HcMQ8https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BIuDh8HcMQ8 (around the 6.20 mark)

Do a lot of lurking so felt I should contribute something, even its just this pish. Glock triggers are wank, soft and mushy as my little man after 10 pints! Just did this to a mates so thought I would stick up a pic. 2.5mm hole, 3mm grub screw (6mm long in this case) and tap. By adding the grub screw you are preloading the trigger using the trigger bar. Spend the money you save on an adjustable trigger and get some stronger trigger springs for a better than the real one, pull and reset https://www.rainbow8.com/collections/glock-series/products/customized-production-steel-trigger-level-spring-150-for-marui-g-series The hop up and thus barrel sit very loose on the frame, by adding some shimming (in this case self sticking steel shim tape) to the frame where the hop unit locks in to you can remove 99% of the play thus leading to be much more accurate. Go slow, fit the hop and barrel to the frame without the slide and outer barrel and leave it loose enough so you can still disassemble. For shimming you can use just about anything paper/card with glue even fuzzy side Velcro. Will post up the barrel drop mod next time i do it if anyone cares. Any mods you could share and add some value to this post? Cheers big ears.

Its basically HPA without the tank and hose, but the best thing is it lets you keep the control manipulation the same. I can mag dump a direct filled Co2 mag 3 times with snow on the ground with 0 ROF cool downs. Only reason to pick a GHK over a TM (unless you have a real hard on for trigger feel) You can also run them on anything using the WA style system such as VFC, G&P ETC by adjusting the valves knocker (just filing it down a bit). Good vid on setting up a home fill station, makes using Co2 it super cheap. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v0fkXxNQDhc

https://core-airsoft.com/product/preorder-dh-mod-filling-kit/ as you need a pain in the bum adapter to use Sodastream. The madbull charger is good but you only need the top bit and will only fit a Co2 "Paintball Tank", if you use it with the reg it will not let liquid Co2 into the magazine and instead of getting 350 + shots off on one fill you will get like 20. Another option to use Sodastream is the palmers pursuit adapter, then the madbul or other filler, but shipping is hugely expensive https://palmerspursuit.com/products/soda-maker-carbonator-charger-refill-adapter-825x14-ngo-male-paintball-threads-to-female-course-thread If Co2 seems to much to sort out loads of people have done the "DH mod" and have GG valves kicking around so a wanted add on here or as Shaydee says the Facebook group should get you some for a good deal. https://samoon.com.tw/ has everything you need spares wise, shipping is around $30 US but only takes about 4-8 days to arrive from Taiwan.

My old man and a lot of 2nd bat Scotsguards, had climbers chalk pouches around 82 in Hong Kong.

And when you finally go to buy it after all that time its unavailable https://www.amazon.com/LubeLife-Personal-Lubricant-Lube-Parabens/dp/B07FMGNV51

I took a glue gun and covered all the exposed solder on the micro switches and board. I have had issues that arise when using in the wet that thankfully solve themselves when its had time to dry out. Cage Airsoft brought out a new circuit that looks do have done the same, only used it a few times since but so far so good.

Mine just hit the 15k rounds mark with 0 issues and was bought off here second hand. I use it when I don't fancy lugging GBBR mags and accoutrements around all day. As far as recoil go's its a bit weird as its more on the forward stroke than into the shoulder but am probably spoilt with the feel of a GHK running direct fill Co2. Talk of GBLS bringing out a Pistol as well as a new rev to the mechbox so if it was me looking to buy one and I could hold off I would wait till this time next year for the new build. No issues with grip changes and the coof got the better of me so had it in bits to do a bit of waterproofing on the electronics and is no harder disassembly wise than its TM counter parts. Thanks for the write up and review mightyjebus was a good read. Obligatory bad photo

My GHK & DAS. Not messed with them for a few weeks so I think I can temp fate and say they are done.

I take it everything is new? What specific propellant are you using? Does it happen if dry firing? Somethings to check - With the gun split when you cock the hammer does the valve knocker (the bit sticking in the magwell) retract all the way back? If not it could be resting on the valve impeding it closing. Are the valves tight in the magazines? Again if the valves are sitting to fare out the valve knocker will not let them close properly. Should just be hand tight, torqueing will squash the brass. Remove the buffer and spring, drop 5 10p coins into the buffer reassemble and try. You are short stroking the system to check to see if the bolt return is resetting the valve knocker quick enough. Split the gun, check to see if the G5 and STANAGS sit in the magwell at the same height. You are making sure the valves and knockers line up the same. Swap the valves over to one that works and give it a try. Seals could be dry. Remove valves stick them in a plastic bag, soak in oil and work the valve making sure to get oil on the internal o-rings. Leave overnight. Doing this to make sure the o-rings have enough lube to function and are not impeding the return spring in the valve. Let me know how you get on.

My advice before moving on anything go to as many sites as you can and have a chat with the people and the operators. Try and at least have a chat so when it comes time to open you are at least on a "hello" basis and you may be able to arrange to have games days that don't conflict and push business each others way. Always nice to have someone to call closeish by in case your pallet of BBs is found to have an endangered species nest of voles in and cant be moved so can pop over and grab some at short notice ETC Props and toys are something to invest in, for instance having a manikin (or even a very large marshal) on a stretcher can make a game feel epic and is just essentially a bog standard capture the flag game mode. Rentals make the money, try and have a marshal to look after just the rentals and give them the best day possible. Future players and future private parties will come of it. Good luck in the venture, always nice to hear of another possible site opening up.

You can shorten the inner barrel or purchase one with a wider ID. GBB work on a flute valve system resting on a spring, gas travels through the system and when enough presser is built up, the valve is forced forward redirecting the gas to propel the slide/bolt to the rear. Just like an AEG you can cut or use a softer spring in the nozzle to reduce the muzzle energy. You can use HFC134A (duster gas) to drop the FPS even further but you lose recoil and thus some of the fun factor.

About the issue of projectile weight, erm lets call them "jewellers scales" have come down in price dramatically as checking the weight of "gold" has become more common. They are tiny and very accurate and even the cheap ones go down to .1 of a gram. Could be easy to carry with a chrono, pop bb out the mag, weight it, stick the mag back in and then run it through the chrono.