nathan13n

I must not be the only one who wanted a tracer unit that was integrated into the silencer making your gun about 3 foot long so I was looking up Hop up tracer units and if you want to buy one of them its like £ 30 for the special hop-up * bull shit* and £40 for the led unit to go onto your special hop up all sounds like such shit. So I went about researching and making my own cos £70 for a tracer unit is a bit crazy. 
 
Research
So I went about researching it and a lot of people have done Hutu unit but don't document the process well and all have different setups so I'm just documenting the one that worked best for me. 
 
LED
LED wise I used 3mm UV LEDs which have a common brightness which is about 3,000mcd which in common I couldn't find anything higher but if you could find a high mcd then I would say get it. It would be hard to as UV light doesn't register on the scale the same way. I have heard to use 12,000 mcd blue led but they didn't perform as well as the UV LEDs the reason for this is the substances the BBs are coated in react to UV light very well as you can see from the picture below. My chose is 3mm UV 3,000 mcd BBs
 
(UV light on bb picture ) 
 
BBs
BB colour is up to you but I tested Blue, Red and Green and green was the best one by far it gave the best contrast in most settings in most conditions obvious in the sunlight no matter what colour it's very hard to see. so my chose is Green BBs
 
Equipment 
Now that you know what LEDs and BBs to use it would be great to know what sort of equipment you would be using,
 
Hot Glue Gun
Black glue sticks 
Dremel / Rotary tool 
Rotary cutting disc 
Clear coat nail polish 
JST wires 
Drill
3.1mm Drill bit
Some Wires
Super Glue 
6mm Dowel 
UV led ( non diffused ) 
Resistor 
A battery capable of 30 amps
 that's all you need 
 
Prototype 1 
So on the prototype, I used two LED on an old plastic G&G sr25 to know what I needed to do, So I drilled two holes using a 3.1mm drill bit for the hop up once this was done. I then worked on the LED you to want to trim this down as low as you can without touching the element this will get a cloudy white colour an easy way to bring the clearness back is to apply a thin coat of clear coat to the LED leave these to dry I then insert the dowel into the bottom of the hop up so the led wouldn't interpret the path of the bbs I then used a little bit of super glue to hold the LED in place on the edge of the led so it doesn't diffuse the colour. The then wired LEDs up in series so connecting the positive to the negative side and adding the JST lead on hot glueing everything down to stop any light bleed out the side of the gun 
 

 
The BB glow was a little bit dead the glow was really weak so I would need to wire them into parallel and add in a resistor as my first prototype lasted 48 hours before the first led failed as my battery was delivering over 38 amps. 
 
Parrel or Series 
So after a little research, I realised that in series the battery voltage was cut in half for the LED so if I added more LEDs it would just decrease the voltage for each LED reducing the brightness so I would need to run it in parrel and so all the LEDs will get the same voltage allowing for a better overall performance 
 so I did a small test to compare brightness. 
 
In Series

 
In Parrell 

 
From this small test you can see the LED in Parrell are a fair bit brighter so for the second mockup I will add the two more LED brings the total to 4 and add in a 320ohms resistor. 
 
Prototype 2
For the second prototype, I added two more LEDs to bring it to 4 ass you can see comparing it is a fairly big difference in brightness I also added the resistor to the end of the positive LED leg that goes into the JST plug this limited the position I could put the cables into  feed the through the gearbox to the battery into pistol grip. I know what to do for the final unit I will be making. I had an idea of drilling into my prowin unit but I drill wasn't strong enough neither was my drill bit as one warped under the pressure and heat generated but the concept carried over. 

 
Final HUTU unit
for the final HUTU unit, I used an SHS plastic hop up which is the same as the Prowin and SHS aluminium, So I drilled out the led holes using the 3.2mm bit the same as the first prototype, cut down the LEDs and clear coated the same way. Glued them in the using super glue wired them up in parallel and added the JST plug onto the end.


 
I then added the resistor into the extension cable so it gave me way more space to flex the cable giving it a nice compact look and allowing the hop up unit to fit right and compact without getting in the way  

 
Once this is done I then connected everything in and made a bypass cable that allows me to run the Wolverine trigger board and Hutu of the same battery the one I'm using that give me a nice smooth 30 plus amps that give the Hutu enough amps to run at full brightness and the trigger board to run as it should. Turnigy Graphene 950mAh 2S 65C.
 
Below is the Hutu all wired in and Video of it firing. The video isn't the greatest quality so I may change it if I can get a better video recorded.The green glow is from the tracer round inside the hop unit. 
 



 
Video 
 
Slow Mo Video 
 
 
AEP tracer Video 
 
Any questions let me know. I will be working on an AEP pistol internal tracer unit I posted the info for this in my Cyma 030 / TM g18c upgrade thread. 

Granted to be fair I see it on almost every thing on there, zero in, discord and what's app selling pages and followed suit, one is not hard to really find out and for the loss of interest fair enough but the pistol with the work gone into and the price asked is a strap since I would rather see it go to home where someone will use it then it be in the box. It's just asking the lines of if he doesn't have anything good to say don't say it, if you lose interest go right past it. I do understand your point
I honestly didn't think you did know how Google worked but well done, since it probably takes the same effort as typing it in and waiting for a response. 

Type in paypal fee calculator and wouldn't you look at that it comes up, crazy how google works isn't.

Granted to be fair I see it on almost every thing on there, zero in, discord and what's app selling pages and followed suit, one is not hard to really find out and for the loss of interest fair enough but the pistol with the work gone into and the price asked is a strap since I would rather see it go to home where someone will use it then it be in the box. It's just asking the lines of if he doesn't have anything good to say don't say it, if you lose interest go right past it. I do understand your point
I honestly didn't think you did know how Google worked but well done, since it probably takes the same effort as typing it in and waiting for a response. 

Granted to be fair I see it on almost every thing on there, zero in, discord and what's app selling pages and followed suit, one is not hard to really find out and for the loss of interest fair enough but the pistol with the work gone into and the price asked is a strap since I would rather see it go to home where someone will use it then it be in the box. It's just asking the lines of if he doesn't have anything good to say don't say it, if you lose interest go right past it. I do understand your point
I honestly didn't think you did know how Google worked but well done, since it probably takes the same effort as typing it in and waiting for a response. 

Granted to be fair I see it on almost every thing on there, zero in, discord and what's app selling pages and followed suit, one is not hard to really find out and for the loss of interest fair enough but the pistol with the work gone into and the price asked is a strap since I would rather see it go to home where someone will use it then it be in the box. It's just asking the lines of if he doesn't have anything good to say don't say it, if you lose interest go right past it. I do understand your point
I honestly didn't think you did know how Google worked but well done, since it probably takes the same effort as typing it in and waiting for a response. 

Easiest way to deal with it is to just ask the seller to send a PayPal invoice to you, listing the goods and postage, for the entire amount that they want you to pay.
 
First, because you very much want that anyway as it forms the basis of a contract that PayPal can use to refund you, and second because it puts the ball back in their court.
 
If they want to sell, they'll do it.  If you get a huffy response, as I recently did, that they "don't use PayPal invoices", then you've dodged a (probably non functioning) bullet.
 

Granted to be fair I see it on almost every thing on there, zero in, discord and what's app selling pages and followed suit, one is not hard to really find out and for the loss of interest fair enough but the pistol with the work gone into and the price asked is a strap since I would rather see it go to home where someone will use it then it be in the box. It's just asking the lines of if he doesn't have anything good to say don't say it, if you lose interest go right past it. I do understand your point
I honestly didn't think you did know how Google worked but well done, since it probably takes the same effort as typing it in and waiting for a response. 

Type in paypal fee calculator and wouldn't you look at that it comes up, crazy how google works isn't.

I must not be the only one who wanted a tracer unit that was integrated into the silencer making your gun about 3 foot long so I was looking up Hop up tracer units and if you want to buy one of them its like £ 30 for the special hop-up * bull shit* and £40 for the led unit to go onto your special hop up all sounds like such shit. So I went about researching and making my own cos £70 for a tracer unit is a bit crazy. 
 
Research
So I went about researching it and a lot of people have done Hutu unit but don't document the process well and all have different setups so I'm just documenting the one that worked best for me. 
 
LED
LED wise I used 3mm UV LEDs which have a common brightness which is about 3,000mcd which in common I couldn't find anything higher but if you could find a high mcd then I would say get it. It would be hard to as UV light doesn't register on the scale the same way. I have heard to use 12,000 mcd blue led but they didn't perform as well as the UV LEDs the reason for this is the substances the BBs are coated in react to UV light very well as you can see from the picture below. My chose is 3mm UV 3,000 mcd BBs
 
(UV light on bb picture ) 
 
BBs
BB colour is up to you but I tested Blue, Red and Green and green was the best one by far it gave the best contrast in most settings in most conditions obvious in the sunlight no matter what colour it's very hard to see. so my chose is Green BBs
 
Equipment 
Now that you know what LEDs and BBs to use it would be great to know what sort of equipment you would be using,
 
Hot Glue Gun
Black glue sticks 
Dremel / Rotary tool 
Rotary cutting disc 
Clear coat nail polish 
JST wires 
Drill
3.1mm Drill bit
Some Wires
Super Glue 
6mm Dowel 
UV led ( non diffused ) 
Resistor 
A battery capable of 30 amps
 that's all you need 
 
Prototype 1 
So on the prototype, I used two LED on an old plastic G&G sr25 to know what I needed to do, So I drilled two holes using a 3.1mm drill bit for the hop up once this was done. I then worked on the LED you to want to trim this down as low as you can without touching the element this will get a cloudy white colour an easy way to bring the clearness back is to apply a thin coat of clear coat to the LED leave these to dry I then insert the dowel into the bottom of the hop up so the led wouldn't interpret the path of the bbs I then used a little bit of super glue to hold the LED in place on the edge of the led so it doesn't diffuse the colour. The then wired LEDs up in series so connecting the positive to the negative side and adding the JST lead on hot glueing everything down to stop any light bleed out the side of the gun 
 

 
The BB glow was a little bit dead the glow was really weak so I would need to wire them into parallel and add in a resistor as my first prototype lasted 48 hours before the first led failed as my battery was delivering over 38 amps. 
 
Parrel or Series 
So after a little research, I realised that in series the battery voltage was cut in half for the LED so if I added more LEDs it would just decrease the voltage for each LED reducing the brightness so I would need to run it in parrel and so all the LEDs will get the same voltage allowing for a better overall performance 
 so I did a small test to compare brightness. 
 
In Series

 
In Parrell 

 
From this small test you can see the LED in Parrell are a fair bit brighter so for the second mockup I will add the two more LED brings the total to 4 and add in a 320ohms resistor. 
 
Prototype 2
For the second prototype, I added two more LEDs to bring it to 4 ass you can see comparing it is a fairly big difference in brightness I also added the resistor to the end of the positive LED leg that goes into the JST plug this limited the position I could put the cables into  feed the through the gearbox to the battery into pistol grip. I know what to do for the final unit I will be making. I had an idea of drilling into my prowin unit but I drill wasn't strong enough neither was my drill bit as one warped under the pressure and heat generated but the concept carried over. 

 
Final HUTU unit
for the final HUTU unit, I used an SHS plastic hop up which is the same as the Prowin and SHS aluminium, So I drilled out the led holes using the 3.2mm bit the same as the first prototype, cut down the LEDs and clear coated the same way. Glued them in the using super glue wired them up in parallel and added the JST plug onto the end.


 
I then added the resistor into the extension cable so it gave me way more space to flex the cable giving it a nice compact look and allowing the hop up unit to fit right and compact without getting in the way  

 
Once this is done I then connected everything in and made a bypass cable that allows me to run the Wolverine trigger board and Hutu of the same battery the one I'm using that give me a nice smooth 30 plus amps that give the Hutu enough amps to run at full brightness and the trigger board to run as it should. Turnigy Graphene 950mAh 2S 65C.
 
Below is the Hutu all wired in and Video of it firing. The video isn't the greatest quality so I may change it if I can get a better video recorded.The green glow is from the tracer round inside the hop unit. 
 



 
Video 
 
Slow Mo Video 
 
 
AEP tracer Video 
 
Any questions let me know. I will be working on an AEP pistol internal tracer unit I posted the info for this in my Cyma 030 / TM g18c upgrade thread. 

I must not be the only one who wanted a tracer unit that was integrated into the silencer making your gun about 3 foot long so I was looking up Hop up tracer units and if you want to buy one of them its like £ 30 for the special hop-up * bull shit* and £40 for the led unit to go onto your special hop up all sounds like such shit. So I went about researching and making my own cos £70 for a tracer unit is a bit crazy. 
 
Research
So I went about researching it and a lot of people have done Hutu unit but don't document the process well and all have different setups so I'm just documenting the one that worked best for me. 
 
LED
LED wise I used 3mm UV LEDs which have a common brightness which is about 3,000mcd which in common I couldn't find anything higher but if you could find a high mcd then I would say get it. It would be hard to as UV light doesn't register on the scale the same way. I have heard to use 12,000 mcd blue led but they didn't perform as well as the UV LEDs the reason for this is the substances the BBs are coated in react to UV light very well as you can see from the picture below. My chose is 3mm UV 3,000 mcd BBs
 
(UV light on bb picture ) 
 
BBs
BB colour is up to you but I tested Blue, Red and Green and green was the best one by far it gave the best contrast in most settings in most conditions obvious in the sunlight no matter what colour it's very hard to see. so my chose is Green BBs
 
Equipment 
Now that you know what LEDs and BBs to use it would be great to know what sort of equipment you would be using,
 
Hot Glue Gun
Black glue sticks 
Dremel / Rotary tool 
Rotary cutting disc 
Clear coat nail polish 
JST wires 
Drill
3.1mm Drill bit
Some Wires
Super Glue 
6mm Dowel 
UV led ( non diffused ) 
Resistor 
A battery capable of 30 amps
 that's all you need 
 
Prototype 1 
So on the prototype, I used two LED on an old plastic G&G sr25 to know what I needed to do, So I drilled two holes using a 3.1mm drill bit for the hop up once this was done. I then worked on the LED you to want to trim this down as low as you can without touching the element this will get a cloudy white colour an easy way to bring the clearness back is to apply a thin coat of clear coat to the LED leave these to dry I then insert the dowel into the bottom of the hop up so the led wouldn't interpret the path of the bbs I then used a little bit of super glue to hold the LED in place on the edge of the led so it doesn't diffuse the colour. The then wired LEDs up in series so connecting the positive to the negative side and adding the JST lead on hot glueing everything down to stop any light bleed out the side of the gun 
 

 
The BB glow was a little bit dead the glow was really weak so I would need to wire them into parallel and add in a resistor as my first prototype lasted 48 hours before the first led failed as my battery was delivering over 38 amps. 
 
Parrel or Series 
So after a little research, I realised that in series the battery voltage was cut in half for the LED so if I added more LEDs it would just decrease the voltage for each LED reducing the brightness so I would need to run it in parrel and so all the LEDs will get the same voltage allowing for a better overall performance 
 so I did a small test to compare brightness. 
 
In Series

 
In Parrell 

 
From this small test you can see the LED in Parrell are a fair bit brighter so for the second mockup I will add the two more LED brings the total to 4 and add in a 320ohms resistor. 
 
Prototype 2
For the second prototype, I added two more LEDs to bring it to 4 ass you can see comparing it is a fairly big difference in brightness I also added the resistor to the end of the positive LED leg that goes into the JST plug this limited the position I could put the cables into  feed the through the gearbox to the battery into pistol grip. I know what to do for the final unit I will be making. I had an idea of drilling into my prowin unit but I drill wasn't strong enough neither was my drill bit as one warped under the pressure and heat generated but the concept carried over. 

 
Final HUTU unit
for the final HUTU unit, I used an SHS plastic hop up which is the same as the Prowin and SHS aluminium, So I drilled out the led holes using the 3.2mm bit the same as the first prototype, cut down the LEDs and clear coated the same way. Glued them in the using super glue wired them up in parallel and added the JST plug onto the end.


 
I then added the resistor into the extension cable so it gave me way more space to flex the cable giving it a nice compact look and allowing the hop up unit to fit right and compact without getting in the way  

 
Once this is done I then connected everything in and made a bypass cable that allows me to run the Wolverine trigger board and Hutu of the same battery the one I'm using that give me a nice smooth 30 plus amps that give the Hutu enough amps to run at full brightness and the trigger board to run as it should. Turnigy Graphene 950mAh 2S 65C.
 
Below is the Hutu all wired in and Video of it firing. The video isn't the greatest quality so I may change it if I can get a better video recorded.The green glow is from the tracer round inside the hop unit. 
 



 
Video 
 
Slow Mo Video 
 
 
AEP tracer Video 
 
Any questions let me know. I will be working on an AEP pistol internal tracer unit I posted the info for this in my Cyma 030 / TM g18c upgrade thread. 

I must not be the only one who wanted a tracer unit that was integrated into the silencer making your gun about 3 foot long so I was looking up Hop up tracer units and if you want to buy one of them its like £ 30 for the special hop-up * bull shit* and £40 for the led unit to go onto your special hop up all sounds like such shit. So I went about researching and making my own cos £70 for a tracer unit is a bit crazy. 
 
Research
So I went about researching it and a lot of people have done Hutu unit but don't document the process well and all have different setups so I'm just documenting the one that worked best for me. 
 
LED
LED wise I used 3mm UV LEDs which have a common brightness which is about 3,000mcd which in common I couldn't find anything higher but if you could find a high mcd then I would say get it. It would be hard to as UV light doesn't register on the scale the same way. I have heard to use 12,000 mcd blue led but they didn't perform as well as the UV LEDs the reason for this is the substances the BBs are coated in react to UV light very well as you can see from the picture below. My chose is 3mm UV 3,000 mcd BBs
 
(UV light on bb picture ) 
 
BBs
BB colour is up to you but I tested Blue, Red and Green and green was the best one by far it gave the best contrast in most settings in most conditions obvious in the sunlight no matter what colour it's very hard to see. so my chose is Green BBs
 
Equipment 
Now that you know what LEDs and BBs to use it would be great to know what sort of equipment you would be using,
 
Hot Glue Gun
Black glue sticks 
Dremel / Rotary tool 
Rotary cutting disc 
Clear coat nail polish 
JST wires 
Drill
3.1mm Drill bit
Some Wires
Super Glue 
6mm Dowel 
UV led ( non diffused ) 
Resistor 
A battery capable of 30 amps
 that's all you need 
 
Prototype 1 
So on the prototype, I used two LED on an old plastic G&G sr25 to know what I needed to do, So I drilled two holes using a 3.1mm drill bit for the hop up once this was done. I then worked on the LED you to want to trim this down as low as you can without touching the element this will get a cloudy white colour an easy way to bring the clearness back is to apply a thin coat of clear coat to the LED leave these to dry I then insert the dowel into the bottom of the hop up so the led wouldn't interpret the path of the bbs I then used a little bit of super glue to hold the LED in place on the edge of the led so it doesn't diffuse the colour. The then wired LEDs up in series so connecting the positive to the negative side and adding the JST lead on hot glueing everything down to stop any light bleed out the side of the gun 
 

 
The BB glow was a little bit dead the glow was really weak so I would need to wire them into parallel and add in a resistor as my first prototype lasted 48 hours before the first led failed as my battery was delivering over 38 amps. 
 
Parrel or Series 
So after a little research, I realised that in series the battery voltage was cut in half for the LED so if I added more LEDs it would just decrease the voltage for each LED reducing the brightness so I would need to run it in parrel and so all the LEDs will get the same voltage allowing for a better overall performance 
 so I did a small test to compare brightness. 
 
In Series

 
In Parrell 

 
From this small test you can see the LED in Parrell are a fair bit brighter so for the second mockup I will add the two more LED brings the total to 4 and add in a 320ohms resistor. 
 
Prototype 2
For the second prototype, I added two more LEDs to bring it to 4 ass you can see comparing it is a fairly big difference in brightness I also added the resistor to the end of the positive LED leg that goes into the JST plug this limited the position I could put the cables into  feed the through the gearbox to the battery into pistol grip. I know what to do for the final unit I will be making. I had an idea of drilling into my prowin unit but I drill wasn't strong enough neither was my drill bit as one warped under the pressure and heat generated but the concept carried over. 

 
Final HUTU unit
for the final HUTU unit, I used an SHS plastic hop up which is the same as the Prowin and SHS aluminium, So I drilled out the led holes using the 3.2mm bit the same as the first prototype, cut down the LEDs and clear coated the same way. Glued them in the using super glue wired them up in parallel and added the JST plug onto the end.


 
I then added the resistor into the extension cable so it gave me way more space to flex the cable giving it a nice compact look and allowing the hop up unit to fit right and compact without getting in the way  

 
Once this is done I then connected everything in and made a bypass cable that allows me to run the Wolverine trigger board and Hutu of the same battery the one I'm using that give me a nice smooth 30 plus amps that give the Hutu enough amps to run at full brightness and the trigger board to run as it should. Turnigy Graphene 950mAh 2S 65C.
 
Below is the Hutu all wired in and Video of it firing. The video isn't the greatest quality so I may change it if I can get a better video recorded.The green glow is from the tracer round inside the hop unit. 
 



 
Video 
 
Slow Mo Video 
 
 
AEP tracer Video 
 
Any questions let me know. I will be working on an AEP pistol internal tracer unit I posted the info for this in my Cyma 030 / TM g18c upgrade thread.