Rogerborg

That does actually seem like pretty good going.

Ouch, I hadn't heard of that. It doesn't surprise me at all though.

I assume anything being sold second hand and remotely is for spares/repair anyway.

"Nice gun, what is it?" gets you a friend for life.

Yup. That's covering the costs of either sending them back empty, or having ships sit idle while we find something, anything, that the Orient wants from us. It's actually surprising that they haven't gone up more already, but then again we were just kvetching about Dave's Custom Airsoft price gouging. We might want to brace for that becoming the new price point.

Sadly, nobody really cares, except the (hypothetical) unethical trader's creditors. As per... another... thread, I worked for a company that folded and phoenixed three times before finally going under. Administrators were brought in to fatten themselves on the last of the meat from its bones, and it was completely apparent that the director had been at it from day 1 ("loaning" himself money from the business accounts to buy property), but no action was taken against him and he wasn't even barred from directing. Not that it would have stopped him anyway, he had a string of handy George-Paul-Ringo brothers-in-law standing ready to be his catspaws.

I'm not sure why you'd qualify it with "up to". The sink (motor) should be the limiting factor, not the source (battery). If you're relying on the battery to protect the motor, trigger or wiring then you're putting the strain on the one part that can fail catastrophically. I'm a big fan of binning off stock wiring and going with the thickest that will fit, e.g. 16 or even 14 gauge. And I do that before fitting a mosfet, as you'll want thicc wiring to take advantage of a mosfet anyway.

Picking a fight with the mirror, it seems. Oops. I do apologise, I thought Gunman was bio only, but I was thinking about someone else - they don't mention it anywhere. The background is that my local site is bio only and yet they keep catching folk using non-bio BBs. I've seen it happen three times, play was halted when they found heavy magnetic non-bios[*] at the chrono, and when the culprits were identified, it's been "Oh, I didn't know", "Nobody told me" (it's stated at every brief), and one bloke tried to brass neck it with "Oh, I didn't think you really cared." So I've had that rant in the bag for a while, I'll pop it back in and keep it warm and dry. [*] I actually think iron or steel dust is more degradable than PLA, but they disagree.

From the lack of eyepro I'd hope there's no actual BBs in there and it's dry firing and triggering (or not) off of the gas. Might be wrong.

Errr: "Sure, the site says bios, but they didn't catch me so non-bio was fine." ? Sure, the site says 1.13J, but they didn't catch me 3J was fine. Sure, the site says plastic, but they didn't catch me so steel BBs were fine. Sure, the site says take your hits, but they didn't catch me so... Joking, but not joking. While I actually think that "bio" BBs are just greenwashing, I use them where the site asks for them, same as I stick to any rule even if I disagree with it.

It's a commendably detailed and apparently honest advert, I can dig it. On the other hand, I get a nosebleed even thinking about paying that much for a sub 0.6J wall hanger.

They'll work, but I'd consider moving to 7.4V lipo or lithium ion as budget allows. SkyRC S65 charger, any 7.4V lithium based batteries that you like. Maybe change to Deans rather than mini-Tamiya if you can do basic soldering. 7.4V sounds like a downgrade but you'll actually start the day closer to 8.4V and lithium cells deliver their voltage more consistently and can supply more power than NiMH. tl;dr version - snappier. I'd consider 0.28g or even 0.3g BBs, but don't sweat it, shoot through what you've got. Inner barrel, maybe, I haven't actually taken a close look into the G&G barrels. A ZCI or AOLS won't set you back much if you want to splurge, but clean out the stock barrel first. Hop units, I'm a fan of the ZCI plastic rotary, as are a lot of folk, which is why they're hard to find at the moment. Maple Leaf hop rubbers, yes please. But clean the stock one first, the gearbox might have sneezed some snot in it. Motors, yes, stock motors are piss weak compared to aftermarket. SHS hi-torque are popular, but I chisel every penny and use Big Dragon M140s from AliExpress which have magnets capable of pulling a satellite out of orbit. For the sights, if you're wearing lower face mesh (I infer semi-auto means CQB?) then you might want to throw a 1/2" or full 1" riser under your sight, which will lift it above the plastic-iron sights anyway. The front sight might be worth keeping in case of optic failure, although @Speedbird_666has proposed a viable alternative. But the thing is, G&Gs are really very usable as-is, you've made a good choice. The parts tends to work together well, they're made of a light but robust plastic, and you don't need to do anything to them (beyond cleaning the barrel and hop). You're looking at just a few metres extra of effective range whatever you do. Particularly if you're in CQB, just get the hop dialled in for your BB weight and the rest will be down to your aim and trigger finger. Ex-Workmate Eddie has been running a completely stock G&G CM16 for years. Zero regrets, it's never once skipped a beat or been significantly outshot by anything that I've bought or fiddled with. I don't think he's even touched the hop after setting and forgetting it back in the 2010s.

Wow, that's a surprise, I'm amazed that they bothered to check. What was the outcome?

Honestly, I'm struggling to think of what else it could be, you've ruled out all the other factors. I'm fascinated to find out.

Yup, I did exactly the same. Used with either Cat Crap, or (better for me) Revision wipes, iForces nearly work. I'm on my 2nd set of inner lenses, just PETG plastic and double sided foam tape. But on a humid day, standing still after running, and wearing lower face mesh, a fan is still the difference between victory and victimhood. While I wait for those little side blowers to show up, I bought another set of generic EN166B goggles from Toolstation, dual paned them, poked ventilation holes around the seal with a hot awl, and cable tied a 50cm blower and tubing on. Great success, and the blower is the key component, even if only for a few minutes a day.

If I were unethical, I'd book profits to my sole trader account, and sink expenses into the limited company with the intention of folding it (again). I'm sure that doesn't describe anyone being discussed here though.

It's fuckin' what? Awesome? Awful? Degenerate? Y U NO EYEPRO? I can see the 14mm CCW units on eBay for under £50, but anything that's claiming 8 days for delivery from "London, UK" really means "Whang Dong, Glorious People's Republic of China". At that point you just to to AliExpress and pay less for more honesty. Hmm, under £40 delivered... https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001500366671.html

I can't think of anything else either, although I'd expect to see some variation in muzzle energy in that case. Same with the hop unit not being pushed back against the gearbox hard enough, and having tried three units that's unlikely to be it either. I'm guessing that you've also tried different mags, just on the off-chance that you've got one that's barely managing to lift the BBs up to the chamber. Although they should either feed, or not feed, and then the nozzle should seat them. Is the inner barrel fairly tight within the outer? Tried packing it with tape? Although (I'm using that word a lot!) I'd be surprised to only see vertical play and not horizontal.

Hmm, that is curious, you've covered most things that I'd have suggested: energy consistency, hop unit, and hop rubber. Airsoft gnus aren't that complicated, it's just puff, spin and point. Is the energy really consistently consistent? Prowin, meh, but if that's a ZCI rotary hop, I wouldn't expect issues with it. If puff and spin are consistent, the only thing that leaves is point, i.e. the barrel. Given what you've already done, I'd assume you've cleaned the barrel as well and had a look down it for obvious imperfections? You could sling in one from your MP5 or AK and see if it's more consistent (even at a different energy), or ZCI or AOLS are both decent choices for not much money.

So, I have a small pistol torch / laser combo that seems noticeably brighter than my larger torches even though it has a smaller collimator / reflector. It takes 2 x 16340 / RCR123A cells side-by-side, and I had a crazy thought: what if it's actually running the same LED chip as every other torch that takes a single 3.7V 18650, but driving it at 7.4V, and damn the consequences? And further, are 16340 cells close enough to half the length of a single 18650 that you can just drop two of them into an 18650 torch in series and over-drive it at double voltage? Well, it turns out that you can, that it's super, duper bright, that you really shouldn't look into it to see how bright, and that I hope to regian my vissoin by moarning.

Sadly, the issue is stock levels, which remain very low everywhere in the UK, whether for receivers or whole items. @ak2m4 is a stand-up guy though, and will give you an honest answer on availability and lead times.

Just a second, the box art shows the "ghost" version, but the unit is the "TREYTECH". Gadzooks, are they in fact the same unit! How can this be! (and so on, and so forth). Well, if they all work about as well, I reckon I'll bag one of those two then, as the native 14mm CCW end cap will keep the profile down. Cheers, chaps.

Damn, that's a shame, and it would be great if you could get it back into action. It looks like maybe 2 / 2.5mm thick? Have you still got the plastic piece, or has it vanished into hyperspace? If you have the part, I'd consider drilling through with a pin vice and 1.2mm-ish bit, and glue a pin or screw through to try and salvage it. Or if you don't have the part, or it's too small to salvage, replace it with as big a screw as will fit, and then build it up with epoxy or JB weld as much as possible. Although if it's under significant tension (as implied by it snapping off) that might be a temporary bodge at best. Good luck, I hope you find an affordable solution.

If the claim has no substance to it, then they've been pulled for completely unrelated reasons, and so George-Paul-Ringo would have no quantifiable loss, or cause of action. Unless there is substance to the claim. In which case... he'd have no cause of action.