Rogerborg

Seen, and cannot be unseen. You'd have to - have to - replace that gopping Frankenstock at a minimum. The rails are nice if you want to add tacticool, but as a woodland secondary, I'd plan for bareback nose-to-nose engagements. I'd hold out for a K.

Good god, no, a Galaxy MP5K plastic-fantastic. Sadly hard to find now that the good word has got out. That absolute cunt fine fellow at Negative Airsoft bought up the last of the UK stock along with all the ZCI rotary hop units in Christendom. This is why I can't find another to dual-wield.

I hope you buy your BB guns 4 less.

I'm still shocked and stunned that a "decent charger" thinks that a storage charge is so low. I'd always been told 80% by real internets experts, but SkyRC reckon it's half of that.

I don't bother myself given the cost vs benefit vs my time, but I've come round to being convinced that storing somewhere below maximum capacity is probably a good idea as there could be some chemical unpleasantness if you leave a lithium cell fully charged. However, I'm not even sure what we're looking at in terms of voltage, given that a typical charger will pump cells to 4.2V rather than the nominal 3.7V, and that voltage and capacity aren't a linear relationship. 70-80% of maximum charge would mean a cell voltage of something like 3.95 - 4.02V, but I doubt that's what a charger will set as a storage voltage (and it can only see the voltage and resistance, not the actual charge). I'll storage charge a 2S on my B6 and see what it settles down at. I've never done this before, I reckon I'll see something like 3.8V per cell / 7.6V, which would only be about 40% charge, but I'm all tingly to find out (or that could be bad earthing). [UPDATE] Yup, 3.8V per cell, or about 40% charge. I'm surprised it's that low, I used a lipo that hasn't been charged for many months, and it still had to discharge it down from 4.0V per cell.

Bear in mind that BBs are made in the same country where multiple companies poisoned babies for profit by mixing melanin into baby formula. Given that the only criteria that the vast majority of purchasers will care about are cost vs flight consistency, I'm pretty sure I know which way they'll go on that.

Some black and grey BBs have ferrous filings in them, as can be verified by dipping your grip in and coming out with dangling balls. A quick Duck-Duck-Go does reveal a fairly wide range of claimed densities for ABS and PLA, with ABS listed with a lower mean density, but a higher limit. it would be interesting to hear what the actual practical limits are from someone better qualified than a typical Wikipedia editard though.

Can I assume that you binned off the Chinamesh and heroed it up a bit?

Yup. Natively, 6mm of ABS is about 0.12g, and PLA ("bio") is 0.2g. Above that, there's got to be something else in there. True, but PLA will start to get sketchy over time, so there's also the consideration that you'll need to get through them, or bin them. Granted, it took 2 years for Geoff's 0.43g bios to start to break up on me, it's not a huge issue.

Now scraping the bottom of the broken drum, but for a backup gun I'd be thinking rental favourites, e.g. CYMA - AK plus a couple of hi-caps, M4 for mag compatibility, MP5 because MP5 - or a JG G36, because you'll need it to work. Have you slummed it with an AAP-01 yet? I mean, all the cool kids are smoking them.

CM.123 magazine, freshly measured.

AK2M4 is the go-to for miscellaneous parts. If you mean the long spring that pulls the charging handle back forwards (which then pushes the mock bolt plate forwards), this should be it: https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/misc-internal-parts/xt-charging-handle-spring If it's the spring that flips the dust cover itself, hmm. Some flip open, some flip closed, and I'm not sure which one this receiver spring set has: https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/misc-internal-parts/ec-m4-receiver-spring-set To be honest, I've taken to just binning off those springs and the mock bolt plate itself, you don't actually need any of them. @ak2m4 is on here, or can be reached via his site, he's a very helpful fellow.

Yup. Even some super fit chums have been aching after their first day due to the variety of stressful positions, plus the adrenaline overload. All part of the fun. Great to hear that you enjoyed it, and especially that you didn't mention any issues with fogging up, that's a good sign.

I feel like a bit of a broken drum here but you don't need a secondary, and in woodland you'll rarely find a reason to use one (beyond "Want to"). I mean, assuming that your T10 shoots under your site limit for auto-guns, with the BB's that you intend to use (I'd suggest 0.28g+) which I did mention up-thread and I hope you've got an assurance from the seller on that. What I run alongside a DMR or sniper is a light plastic MP5K on a leg panel with a 500 round high-cap magazine. Strap on and forget it, it's a full size AEG gearbox in a close-to-pistol-size frame, and actually lighter than a pistol + mags for even a fraction of that ammo capacity. Full sustainable auto, close to 1J, it's a compelling combination. I wouldn't want to carry anything bulkier than that as a secondary, and there shouldn't be any need to with a T10 primary. Having a backup gun with you is a good idea, but it doesn't need to be anything special given that you'll ideally not be using it. For fun factor, gas blowback pistols are hard to beat, although I'd stress how little you'll likely use one in woodland at most sites. AAP-01, or Tokyo Marui Hi-Capa or G17 are common choices. As we're into Winterish weather, you could consider CO2 although I've never bothered because MP5K Master Race, and the risk of running too hot.

Getting your hop spot on can be an exercise in tiny adjustments, and going back and forth to get the perfect pressure. That said, I find it easier to get heavier BBs dialled in and would agree that 0.28g should be your default choice until you find something that works better, and which is affordable depending on your budget and trigger happiniess. I run 0.28g in AEG primaries, 0.32g in a DMR (and should really be running heavier, but there's quite a jump in price to 0.36g), and 0.25g in an MP5K used as a DMR/sniper secondary which is generally used at shorter ranges. The only way to find out what your particular toys prefer is to try it and see.

Better to be playing with the cheapest CYMA than not playing while waiting for a unicorn gun to become available. Then turning up to a site with it and, if it works at all, being told to put it back in the car because it's shooting at 1.5J on auto. I am intrigued though, @Johnelliott, where did you even hear about Inokatsus, let alone decide that you wanted one? The default advice is to rent for at least one day to see if you actually enjoy the experience, then take it from there. Is there anything in your origin story that would indicate that you should bypass that?

Sounds like a solid subject. How about starting a General Discussion thread to get the ball rolling; it's entirely on topic.

The issue of whether the same object can be both a firearm (e.g. airgun or over-powered airsoft gun) and a realistic firearm should be unambiguous enough. It won't be precedent setting at a Magistrates' court, only at Crown, but even Magistrates' verdicts can be persuasive. Nobody ever did take a punt at guessing which of these (if any) is a real firearm; which (if any) is an airgun firearm clearly designed to be a realistic imitation of that real firearm which can be legally bought over the counter with ID (or at a car boot with none) and no further questions asked; and which (if any) is a realistic imitation firearm which it is an offence to sell even though it's not a firearm and much less lethal than the other two. One really cute quirk is that the RIF (if any) could be claimed to be an imitation of either the real firearm that the airgun is imitating, or of the airgun, with the exact same offence being committed by sale, even though the legality of the two visually identical things that it could be imitating are completely different.

The reason I'm asking for more info is that if the problem are the side cells and they're only fractionally too big, you may be able to file away enough of the stock to get them in. If it's the centre cell and it's fouling on the wiring / fuse / mosfet, you may be able to get a cleaner wiring run past that cell. Any advice can only be as good as the information given.

It's going to be a sad day when we finally do get precedent-setting case law on this, the mystery is half the fun.

Which part(s) don't fit, and why?

Cool story bro.

Is this the time when we find case law which says that the same object can't be both? Because I remain utterly baffled by the belief that the State won't apply both laws, as it suits.

The shiny but unvarnished truth.

"It fails to cycle in exactly the same way that a real gun would fail to cycle!"