Rogerborg

Yes, and cable ties. Definitely don't do this. I agree, don't do this. Buy your home made eyepro from @heroshark

DIY. 3.5mm hexagonal hole / 4.5mm pitch / 1.mm galvanised steel sheet. No warranty, not medical advice, the value of your eyesight may fall as well as rise.

I use 1980s style towelling headbands, and as you say, rotate through 3 of them. This is specifically what they were designed for (also good for Jane Fonda impression loadouts). Visor spray, Cat-Crap, Revision wipes, all help. Dual pane helps too, like Pyramed iForce or rebranding, or DIY dual panes made with PETG sheet and 2mm or 3mm double sided foam tape. Ultimately though, the only thing that really works for me is fan ventilation. Googles with a small built in fan, or DIY fans and ducting work for me, or there's Ex-Fog, the Novritsch equivalent, or you could try a cheap generic one for £21 delivered from AliExpress. Although when my dodgy fan wiring failed last time, I just switched to mesh goggles and, wow, problem solved.

Sorry, I'm out. I hope all that stuff works well together.

Ahoy and welcome. Wow, you are new. You'll quickly find excuses to add to that collection. I also run a solid-stock long-barrel 5.56 as DMR, but just to be clear, do you intend to run your gun as a full-auto gun, or as a semi-auto DMR? The answer is: it depends. It depends on what battery you're using, and how well the mags feed, and whether your gears have a tappet delayer, and... well, if it works, it works. However, given the barrel length, you may find issues with sending BBs down the barrel quicker than they come out, but there's no way to be sure other than to try it and see what performance you get. No, I think you should play with it as-is and then deal with the reality that you observe. Bearings or solid bushings? I prefer bushings as bearings just add more points of failure. But again, I wouldn't fix something that isn't broken - if your bearings are working, then play with them. Decent choice, although Maple Leaf bushings and omega nubs are very popular for a good reason. If you're intending to play at airsoft sites, that's your defence. The reality is that if you use it sensibly, nobody is ever going to ask, or care, how it came to look the way that it looks. Have you played with it? If so, how well is it performing?

Yup, what they said. My AAP-01C's magazine feeds fine (and it will eat Action Army and WE mags). Get in there with a file or some rolled up sandpaper.

Good point. @WillMidzare you dead set on full face? Glasses/goggles (polycarb or mesh) + a mesh+fabric lower face mask like this (not a recommendation, just a for-example) provides a good combination of protection and cheek-weldability.

Hmm, that's actually a fair point. It applies to motorcycle helmets as well, although I tend to change mine as a fashion choice, because I'm a tart. Despite my Valken recommendation, I do too, particularly outdoors. I had to switch from (dual pane, Revision wiped, fan vented) goggles on Sunday because of the high humidity and general sweaty unfitness. If you are going mesh, I'd suggest Heroshark, or an equivalent using (e.g. and what I use) 3.5mm hole / 4.5mm pitch / 1mm sheet. The cheapest goggles will stop impacts, but you'll want to examine them after every game and keep a spare in the bag (which obviates the point of going cheap)

I have never replaced or discarded eyepro because it's taken a hit. Do you do it often?

I'd pay less, for a Valken MI-7, or more for a Dye of your choice. I use the Valken, and it's the only eye-pro that I've never managed to fog up. It's got a dual-pane lens, that sits just far enough clear of your face so that I can't sweat it up. The Dyes are apparently more tolerating in fit, but I'm fine with the harder plastic of the Valken.

Experiences will vary, but I was astonished with mine. It's performed exactly as advertised, without any tinkering other than a (super quick and easy) spring change and a barrel clean. I like an excuse to tinker, but I just don't have any. It's both the most expensive airsoft toy I've bought, and also the best value for money in terms of balls-on-target. The one downside is that, as @Impulsesaid, it's a bit of a chonky boi compared to a VSR. The Lite version is indeed Liter and cheaper, while having the same internals.

They require a spring. You might - and I stress might - need a chub nub, or to shim the stock nub, to lift 0.46g+. I shoot 0.43g from mine, and with only a spring change and Rapax rings to tune it to bang on 2.3J, it's already more consistent than my aim, and stealthier than my field-craft. So while I agree that you could get even betterer performance out of throwing away all (and as you say, all) the internals of a VSR, I'd suggest that it only makes sense if you enjoy the process, and are prepared to spend more than a TAC-41 or Novristch SSR, and have the opportunity to tune and test between game days, and are very serious about Bush Wookeying to the point where you're washing your balls before playing. There's no wrong way to airsoft, and I did have fun tuning an MB-01 on a budget, but it went in the bin-bag of shame the instant I pulled the trigger on a Silverback.

Wait, did you just get it in pink because it was a freebie?

Ahoy and welcome back!

Annoying and deceptive. I'd just start the process of getting a refund immediately. If it's generic gear and trinkets, you can often find it on AliExpress where they are at least a bit more honest about availability, delivery and costs.

Hello. I'm 52, dress up as a space soldier, and play hide-and-seek with toy guns. What @Tackle said, just initiate a Section 75 or a debit card chargeback. Don't get into deep details. I wouldn't even mention the return, just "I bought goods, I have neither the goods nor the money, seller is not contactable." Let them tell their side. You might be surprised how quickly you get contacted by Bespoke to resolve it, but I'd stress, do not drop the case until you have working goods, or a full refund, no matter what you're promised.

Ah, got you. Got for it then, we're not on a rehearsal. You're really spoiled for choice in M4s if that's the way you want to go - remembering that other platforms are available. There are lots of happy owners of most brands - not you, VFC - but the features-for-money on the recent Specnas with fire control systems is phenomenal.

All looks good. One thing though, can he get a sight picture with that mask on? I have to run optics and risers when I'm full-facing.

Excellent result, perfectly reasonable by them, and you'll get support that way too. Good to see an MP5 out there rather than more M4 based PCCs, although he's dressed it up to look like an M4.

The CM.5xx range is made of nasty feeling plastic. They work fine, and I see they come with rotary hops now, but they're no-frills basic guns. The Specnas have much nicer plastic bodies, quick change springs (handy for tuning the power) and well featured fire control systems with burst fire and pre-cocking, which are fun and useful. 0.2g is fine for indoors, but outdoors you'll want to use the heaviest BBs that your budget can stand and your hop unit can lift. I tend to run 0.28g, some go heavier. Just checking: have you played yet? I'd rent at least once before committing to any purchases, and wait for the adrenaline rush to die off and the bruises to show before you break out the credit card. (I mean, I say that, I didn't do it, but... )

Skyler from Reddit? 🤔

Dying for for Emperor at Biohazard 2. It went great after I gave up on trying to defog my eyepro and just switched to mesh. The most remarkable thing was the countdown timer to the next game, which meant actual 10 minute breaks and a 45 minute lunch (plus wrangling time). Klaxons and everything. All sites should have this, no exceptions, no excuses.

Ahoy and welcome. And... why an Arcturus? There are loads of brands of M4 in your budget, and only a few Arcturus guns are down there. The Specna Arms FLEX and CORE HAL ETU guns, just for example, are in your price range, and come with a fully featured fire control system, rotary hop, and quick change spring.

Even if you run it on higher pressure gas?

Well, you can start with the easy stuff: check the hop rubber and hop arm, clean the barrel, make up some tape spacers (which really do work). And a TDC mod really is just a hole drilled and tapped right above the hop arm, with a fine thread grub / machine screw added to press down on the arm. Sticking a thickening saddle on top helps to give the screw more purchase. Regreasing the piston ring can help with compression. It's when you start throwing new parts at it, like an aftermarket hop, that the price starts ramping up, and you still need to put in the time to tinker and tune with it anyway. The trigger sears and stopper are a weak point on the Wells, and you might find that up-springing results in problems pulling the bolt of firing (or not firing, if it slam fires). It's a fun process, but with decent out-of-the-box guns from Silverback and Novritsch on the market now, I don't think it makes economic sense.