EDcase

Sorry I wasn't clear. Its vapour smoothing OR dipping. The problem with vapour is getting even coverage (as the vapour is heavier than air and settles) and knowing when to stop. Apparently dipping directly in Isopropyl?/acetone is a method that can result in more even smoothing but does need quite a lot in a tub. (Can be reused for this purpose) Can obviously be repeated to smooth more.

Impressive modelling. What material do you use? Have you tried vapour or dipping for smoothing parts?

I've found a 30w Raycus galvo fibre laser for a reasonable price. Since most of my toys are the cheap non trades versions I would do my own first of course (after lots of testing 😁) Yes, I would certainly only offer the service to others after extensive testing. They do have a preview feature to make sure the placement is correct so I'm not worried about that. Yeah, it would definitely be MUCH easier if people could disassemble the parts to be worked on. No, I couldn't do curved parts. Actually I think the hardest part would be making the pattern files for the various trades and logos. (Does anyone know anywhere to download images or vector files for various trades?) Thank you guys for your thoughts.

UPDATE: Engraving service is on hold as I am currently in hospital after a motorcycle crash. Send me a PM to discuss what you want. ------------------------------------------- For anyone who doesn't know how to send a PM Click on Avatar picture to go to profile page and you will see a 'Message' button

@Polyscript You have to understand that our hobby is hated by many people including some in authority and even government. Not wanting to sound like some of the gun nuts across the pond, but we are wary of anyone who might bring bad publicity to the ownership of replica firearms. Past incidents have already brought tighter controls and anything new would bring us closer to an outright ban like in Australia.

Carry them like a hero 😁

Spent rather too much on this WE M14 but its a beauty (Top image is darker as it shows the 'before' process of weathering) I have modded the trigger group with JB Weld to make it stronger

Search youtube with "How to zero a scope" There will be loads of explanations 👍 You'll need a steady shooting position and a target that you can see how far away from the centre the BBs hit. Then just turn the adjustment screws a bit for correction of Windage (left-right) and Elevation (up-down) Then shoot again and see if its closer to the centre of the target.

There isn't much to know. It likely uses a CR2032 battery under the illumination cap You change the FOV by turning the adjustment ring in front of the eyepiece. (Power change ring)

Salut ✋ Your English is very good 👍 Enjoy the forum 😁

First of all, which country are you in? Before buying the toys you have to find out about the legalities of setting up an airsoft site. If you are in UK and own a large plot of land you can legally allow friends to play but you must have Public Liability Insurance for strangers to play. If your land is near public access footpaths etc then you need to find out what precautions must be taken.

Ah yeah, I think I got em mixed up. Its just a piston sucking air through a small vent hole to do the timing if I remember correctly. It should be possible to put it in a smaller body or even make a smaller diameter piston but it would have to be matched to the spring strength. And the body would have to be quite strong. I imagine they have a patent on the design.

That Pulse looks cool but yeah, pricy. Pity it doesn't come up with a search for "airsoft timed bfg" When I was looking I didn't see anything other than SWAT and Dynatex (Both very similar. I believe SWAT was the original and Dynatex is the copy) Theoretically it should be possible to make a much smaller version with the same reliable design.

Yep, each to their own 😁 I only have 8 years experience but I've fixed a few leaking mags which either arrived leaking from new or second hand. Can't think of any I've had that started leaking (Except a Co2 mag which I hate) You seem pretty convinced to me so to answer your question, you'll be wanting Propane. Its Dry and cheap 😉

I'm just going by a few years experience. You do what you want but you won't convince me 😉

The most common cause of leaks is the O-rings rubber drying out which makes them loose elasticity and shrink. If you've ever repaired a leaky magazine assuming the o-ring hasn't been damaged, applying some oil or grease will often fix the problem.

I know his channel and usually agree with what he says... but not this time. I'd rather clean the barrel and hop once in a while than take all the valves out of my mags to oil them separately. Its your choice of course 😉

He's talking about internal moving parts NOT magazine gas...

Where did you hear that? I'm not an expert but I believe its the OPPOSITE. (I do have 18 GBBP's and 6 GBBR's which have zero issues using Ultrair) Gas guns NEED to have the oil in the gas to protect the seals in the magazines. (That's why all airsoft gas has some silicone oil mixed in) You just clean the barrel and hop rubber after heavy use. Use Isopropyl Alcohol on a strip of cloth with the cleaning rod. DON'T go into the hop rubber. Use a Q-Tip with a drop of Isopropyl for the hop rubber. Dry gas such as Propane needs silicone adding to it because its not meant for airsoft and without added oil the mag seals will dry up resulting in leaks and needing replacements... The only reason some people use Propane is because its cheaper than green gas. The airsoft fill adaptors have a port to add the silicone oil.

Now where have we seen this monstrosity before?

I'm 50/50 They're both cool As long as you don't have to make any permanent changes you get the best of both 😉

Welcome back to the madness 😁👍

👍

I think note would be any info like when you can send ie next day or at weekends etc. Just put any relevant info. I don't think its that critical.

Posting options. Shipping method: 1st or 2nd Class Royal Mail or Express48 (for replica gunz) etc