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Steveocee

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Everything posted by Steveocee

  1. Sadly..... You're still a "a little bittle kid" in the eyes of the law even though you likely have some fluff on your top lip now. Also a point to consider - if you live in your dads house, you need to live by his rules, he may have his own prejudices against it regardless to the legalities. Take him to a skirmish for the day, bit of bonding, you never know he may get the bug and then you'll have all the guns you want.
  2. Silverback VMP but install a SniperUpgrades mousefart on the front end of it. Even now people know SRS are quiet, I still get comments on how quiet it is. Mega consistent as it uses an O-ring to seal and not a cup. **Also, dry lube is fine on your cylinder but use the normal grease on your existing cup and FPS should come back up.
  3. Ares Amoeba do a nice low profile but personally, I have a set of EPM1S's and they've been fine, when I got them I quarter loaded and left them for 24 hours, then half loaded for another 24 hours, 3/4 loaded and finally fully loaded for 24 hours. Have been absolutely golden every time I've used them.
  4. So I might have decided to buy an Article1....

  5. More CQB goodness with an ass shot!
  6. Stock VSR style pistons (ssg10 is this) are known for being pretty loud. Thankfully it's easily solved with an airbrake. You need to think opposite way though, bigger spring means more power to dampen down or faster moving piston to slap harder. WASP over a Stalker every time as stalker are just copy experts in everything they do. WASP with a long air brake and then the lightest spring you can get away with, RAPAX 2J is a good one. Add some weight to the piston (it comes with sleeves) to get the heavier BB's flying, aim for about a .43 using a 430mm barrel and your piston>barrel ration should be as near as dammit good enough (which also keeps it quiet) and you'll have a really quiet setup (for a springer).
  7. Had a read through as "back in the day" I used to work in car audio and there was occasionally the ask for a "power cap" from some of the boy racers, they liked the LED flashing lights and display on them. Back then it was always the answer of - ok-ish if you want something very quick and wasn't too hard on the draw, otherwise if your bass note dropped low and stayed there, it was additional strain on your battery trying to supply the amp and the cap simultaneously. In the given examples, I would imagine that semi response I guess "should" be likened to a paced tight beat but I would imagine a long pull on auto would be like dropping low for a few seconds (so not advised?) Good read. Thank you.
  8. It's fine, just let it go. The only thing I can imagine is on your original hammer the half cocked ramp had worn down a bit and this isn't the case on the new hammer and/or they were a little "rough" with your sear spring and gave it some more pressure. Either way, it'll be absolutely fine just pulling the trigger and letting the hammer go on it's own. The hammer impacts the knocker which is spring loaded, we're talking about the tiniest amount of wear/impact to the hammer ever. It'll take it a million times (well maybe not if it's Vorsk) before it breaks. Just remember - there is no firing pin, there is no "chamber" it's an airsoft toy, normal gun physics and logic don't apply as much.
  9. The R608 as it's naturally more hi capa-esque so when parts break (they will it's relatively cheaply made) the replacements will be easier to get. Generally the AA capas are ok shooting out the box as well. Don't expect mega performance but 20-30M it'll do you.
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